
Class F~5 7 3 



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INCIDENTS OF 

%xM u& %k\\\m in % far SStsL 




yailatiMl 






Colonel Fremont and the Author taking Astronomical 
Observations. — P. 129. 



INCIDENTS 



TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE 



FAR WEST; 



COL. FREMONT'S LAST EXPEDITION 

ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN'S : INCLUDING TIIREE MONTHS' RESIDENCE TN 
UTAH. AND A PERILOUS TRIP ACROSS THE 

GREAT AMERICAN DESERT, 

TO THE PACIFIC. 

BY S. N. CARVALHO, 

ARTIST TO THE EXPEDITION. 




NEW YORK: 
DERBY <fc JACKSON, 119 NASSAU ST 

CINCINNATI : H. W. DERBY * CO. 

186V. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by 

DERBY & JACKSON, 

Iu the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. 



W. H. Tinson, Stereotyper. Gkobge Russell & Co., Printers. 



TO 
MRS. JESSIE BENTON FREMONT 

THIS BOOK 
IS, BY PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. 



PREFACE. 



In preparing this volume for publication, I have not followed 
any established system of arrangement. 

The incidents are most of them transcripts from original let- 
ters, written in the familiar style of friendly correspondence. 

The description of a journey from Great Salt Lake City to 
San Bernandino, is an exact copy from my journal, written after 
many days of wearisome travel. 

The Mormon Episodes, I have rendered almost verbatim from 
personal relations by the parties themselves, and not from " hear- 
say." 

While the Latter-day Saints publicly adopt every opportunity 
to openly avow and zealously propagate the System of Poly- 
gamy — i n direct opposition to the established and acknowledged 
code of morality, as practised by all civilized nations— I but 
exercise my prerogative in exposing some of its abuses, which I 
consider destructive to morality, female delicacy, and the sanctity 
of marriage. 



Till PREFACE. 

To prove the correctness and authenticity of my statements, 
with regard to the moral and ecclesiastical views of the Latter- 
day Saints, I have appended to the end of this volume, several 
discourses and addresses, some of which were delivered during 
my sojourn in Utah, by President Brigham Young and his apos- 
tles, and reported by G. D. Watt, Esq. of Great Salt Lake City. 

For the rest, I submit myself to an indulgent public. 

The Author. 

Baltimore, Md., September, 1856. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 



First Introduction to Col. Fremont — Author's previous Opinion of Him — His Impulsive 
Resolution to accompany Col. Fremont, as Artist of the Exploring Expedition across 
the Rocky Mountains, 17 

CHAPTER II. 

Preparations for the Journey — Daguerreotype Outfit — Scientific Knowledge required 
— Departure from New York — Alden's Preserved Food — Esteem of Col. Fremont's 
former Companions for him — Arrival at St. Louis — Steamboat F. X. Aubrey — Com- 
pagnons de Voyage — Arrival at Kansas, 20 

CHAPTER III. 

Landing of Camp Equipage — Westport — First Camp Ground — Preparations — Extortion 
— Author and Companions — First Daguerreotypes — Rain Storm — Distribution of Arms 
and Ammunition — Engagement of Delaware Chiefs — Branding of Animals — California 
Saddle-Horses — Selects his Pony — Becomes his own Ostler — Description of Catch- 
ing a Mule on the Mountains — Examination of Camp Equipage — Trial Start — First 
Camp, 23 

CHAPTER IV. 

Shawnee Mission — Indisposition of Col. Fremont — He returns to Westport — The 
Expedition proceeds onward — Sunrise on the Prairies — Meeting of our Delawares 
— Pottawatomie trading Post — Author turns Carpenter — Expediency — A Kansas 
Blacksmith — " Astonishment " — Quarter Master — Persecution — Success against Con- 
spiracy 29 

CHAPTER V. 

Letter to W. H. Palmer— Col. Fremont's Return to St. Louis, and Increased Illness — 
Expedition under charge of Delawares — Camp Proceeds to "Smoky Hills" — Fort 
Riley— Solomon's Fork — First Buffalo — Barometers go on a Buffalo Hunt — Encamp- 

1* 



X CONTENTS. 

ment on " Salt Creek "—Indian Method of Cooking Buffalo Meat— 011a Pudrida— 
Wasting of Provisions— Kinnikinick— Havana Segars— Indian Amusements— Camp 
Life — Hewers of Wood and Drawers of Water — Author's Opinion of Col. Fremont — 
He Nominates him for the Presidency, 34 

CHAPTER VI. 

Kansas Territory — Arkansas and Kansas Rivers — Tributaries — Timber — River Bottoms 
— Varieties of Came — Cereals — Coal — Geological Formation — Adventure in the Woods 
— Wild Grapes — Indian Method of procuring them — Brandy vs. Poison — Return of 
the Author's Brandy-flask — He turns Washerwoman — Novel Mode of Mangling Clothes 
— Lost Mule — Beaver Trappers — Rifle Practice, .. ^ .... 4,0 

CHAPTER VII. 

Delaware Medicine Man— Illness of Oapt. Wolff— Author turns Doctor — Empty Com- 
mi sarial — Expedition to Fort Riley for Fresh Supplies — Professor Espy's Theory of 
Rain — Indians on Kansas Prairies — Sleet and Snow Storm — Tent Blown Down- 
Approach of Cold Weather — " Pony Missing," 46 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Author's First Buffalo Hunt — Pursuit — Perilous Situation— Mode of Attack by the 
Indians — Solitary and Alone — Pony killed for Food — An 111 Wind that blows Nobody 
any Good — Incredulity of Indian Hunters — Return to Camp — Prairies on Fire — 
Suffocating Smoke — Mr. Egloffstein on a Wolf Hunt— Fire Light and Moonlight — 
Camp surrounded by Fire — Dangerous Situation — Arrival of Colonel Fremont — 
Preparations to resume our Journey — Escape through the Blazing Element, . 50 

CHAPTER IX. 

Walnut Creek — Necessity of strict discipline — Neglect of duty— Horses sto'.en— Chey- 
enne Indians — Thieves overtaken — Watchfulness of Col. Fremont — Immense herds 
of Buffalo — Buffalo hunt on a large scale — Buffalo chips — Prairie dogs, Owls, &c. — 
Indians in camp — Raw Antelope liver, 62 

CHAPTER X. 

Cheyenne Indian Village — " Big Timber" — Daguerreotypes — Indian Papoose — Author 
is Suddenly Changed into a Magician — Silver and Brass Bracelets — Portrait of Indian 
Princess — " Presto, pass .'" — Moccasins — Cheyennes and Pawnees at War — Grand 
Scalp-dance — Col. Fremont a Spectator — Dinner with the Chief— Rosewood Carved 
Furniture not in Use — Duties of Indian Women — Employment of the Men, . 67 

CHAPTER XL 

Bent's Trading Post — Purchase Fresh Animals— Buffalo Robes— Immense Lodge — Fre- 
mont's Lodge— Doctor Ober — His Scientific Knowledge— Attachment of the Author 
to him -His Preparation to return to the States — Arkansas River— Giant Cotton 
Woods — Islands in the Arkansas — Bent's Fort destroyed by Indians— Preparations 
to cross the Mountains— First View of the Rocky Mountains — Bid adieu to Doctor 
Ober, 71 



CONTENTS. XI 



CHAPTER XII. 



Journey up the Arkansas — Bent's Fort — Huerfano River and Valley — Description of the 
Country — Huerfano Butte — Behind Camp — Daguerreotypes — Scientific Observations — 
Approach of Night — Trail Lost, and Encampment in the Woods — Buffalo Robes and 
Blankets — Col. Fremont sends to find us — Bear Hunt — Roubidoux Pass — Emotion of 
Col. Fremont when Looking upon the Scene of his Terrible Disaster on a Former Expe- 
dition — Found a Half Starved Mexican — Col. Fremont's Humanity — His Skill in Pistol 
Shooting, 75 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Sand-hill Pass — San Louis Valley — Natural Deer-park— Smoked Venison — Last sight 
of Game — Rio Grande del Norte — Sarawatch — Cochotope Pass — First Snow in Moun- 
tains — Gunnison's Wagon Trail — Summit of Pass — Waters commence to flow 
towards the Pacific — Encampment — Immense Rugged Mountain — Impracticability of 
ascent by Mules — The Author ascends on Foot — Col. Fremont accompanies him — 
Daguerreotype Panorama from its Summit — Col. Fremont's Consideration for his Men 
—Sublimity — First View of Grand River — Reflections — Return to Camp, . . 80 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Intense Cold — Author's First Journey on Foot — Immense Mountains of Snow — Escape 
of his Pony — Lose Sight of Companions — Arrival at top of the Mountain — Pony 
Recovered — Revolution of Feeling— Indian Gratitude Exemplified — Horse Steaks 
Fried in Tallow Candles — Blanc Mange — New Year's Day — Dangerous Ascent of 
a Mountain — Mules tumble Down — Animals Killed— Successful Attempt Next Day 
— Camp in four feet of Snow — Coldest Night — Sleep out in open Snow, . . 84 

CHAPTER XV. 

Descent of Snow Mountains — Gun for a Walking-stick — Indian Tracks — Examination 
of Arms— Predicament of the Author — Lecture from Col. Fremont— Wild Horse Killep 
by Indians — Utah Indian Village — Encampment — Trade for Venison — Camp at Night 
Surrounded by armed Indians — They Demand Payment for the Horse Killed by the 
Indians — Col. Fremont's Justice — Indians want Gunpowder — Their Demand Refused 
— Massacre of the Party Threatened — Defiance — Pacification — Author Trades for a 
Horse— He Leaves his Colt's Revolver in Camp— Runaway Horse — Author Finds 
himself in a Sage Bush — Pistol Recovered — Trouble in Perspective — Exchanges Horses 
— Lame Horse — Author on Foot — Regrets that he was not Educated for a Horse- 
Breaker, 89 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Grand River — Descent of Mounted Indians into Camp — Military Reception — Their de- 
mands — Trouble Expected — Excitement of the Author — Exhibition of Colt's Revolvers 
— Col. Fremont's Knowledge of Indian Character — The Great Captain in his Lodge — , 
Alarm of the Indians — Quadruple Guard— Departure of Indians — Vigilance the price of . 
Safety— Crossing of the Grand River — Horse Killed for Food — Review of Our 
Position — Impressive Scene — Cold Night — Mr. Fuller — Whites without Food — Beaver 
Shot — The Camp under Arms — False Alarm, 96 



Xll CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Divide between Grand and Green River— Capt. Gunnison's Trail— Without Water — 
Formation of the Country— Castellated Bluffs — Green River Indians — Crossing of the 
Green River — Interview with Indians — Disappointment — Grass-seed — Manner of 
Preparing it for Food — Horse Purchased — Starving Condition of the Whites — Incident 
Exhibiting the Moral Dishonesty of one of the Men — Name not Published — Dinner 
on Porcupine — "Living Graves" — Tempestuous Night — Reflections on Guard — No 
Grass — Frozen Horse Liver — Blunted Feelings, 1U4 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Careless Packing of Animals — Mule Missing — Their value as Roadsters — Col. Fremont's 
Horse gives out — His Humanity Exemplified — Wolf killed for Food — Raven Shot — 
River Bottom — Original Forest — Large Camp Fires — Terrible Rain Storm — Disagree- 
able Bed — Darkness — Fires Extinguished — Value of Rain — Glorious Sunrise — Contrast 
with Home Comforts, Ill 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Crippled Condition of the Party — Mr. Oliver Fuller — Mr. Egloffstien — Mr. Fuller gives 
out — His Inability to Proceed — Mr. Egloffstien and the Author continue on to Camp 
for Assistance — Col. Fremont sends Frank Dixon after him— Sorrow of the Camp- 
Mr. Fuller's Non-Appearance — Delawares sent out to Bring the Men in — Return of 
Frank Almost Frozen — Restoration of Mr. Fuller — Joy of the Men — Serious Thoughts 
— The Author Prepared to Remain on the Road — His Miraculous Escape, . 117 

CHAPTER XX. 

Author nearly gives Out — Family Portraits — Fresh Courage — Dangerous Situation — 
Lonely Journey — Darkness— Snow Storm — Arrival at Camp — " Col. Fremont's Tent" 
— Interview with Col. Fremont — " Cache " — Men on Foot — Daguerreotype Appara- -. 
tus buried in the Snow — Sperm Candles — Men Mounted on Baggage Animals — 
Seveir River Beaver Dams — Modus Operandi of killing Horses for Food — Entrail' 
g 0U p — Hide and Bones Roasted — Influence of Privation on Human Passions, 122 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Unsuccessful Attempt to Force a Passage in the Mountains — Delawares sent out to 
Explore — Their Return — Col. Fremont, Capt. Wolff, and Solomon in Council — ■ 
Unfavorable Report of Capt. Wolff— Col. Fremont's Determination — Astronomical 
Observations at Midnight — Col. Fremont's Correctness and Skill Illustrated — Tre- 
mendous Mountains of Snow — Successful Ascent o'n Foot, without Shoes or Mocca- 
sins — Tribute to the Genius Of Fremont — Col. Fremont's Lodge at Meal-Time — Mr. 
Oliver Fuller's Death — Sorrow of his Companions — His Last Hours — His Virtues — 
Indian Camp — Arrival at Parowan — Burial of Mr. Fuller — Author's Physical Condi- 
tion — Mormon Sympathies — Mr. Heap and his Wives — Mormon Hospitality, . 128 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Sojourn at Parowan — Colonel Fremont refits his Expedition — Illness of the Author — 
His Inability to Proceed— Takes Leave of Col. Fremont — Mr. Egloffstien and the 
Author leave to go to Great Salt Lake City in a Wagon — Col. Fremont's Departure — 



CONTENTS. XI II 

Mormons for Conference— Arrival at Salt Lake City— Massacre of Capt. Gunnison— 
Interview with Lieut. Beciwith— Mr. Egloflfetien appointed Topographical Engi- 
neer—Painting Materials— Kinkead and Livingston— Brigham Young— Governor's 
Residence— Apology for Mormonism among the Masses— Their previous Ignorance of 
the Practice of Polygamy, 139 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Governor Brigham Young— Author's Views on Polygamy— Baptismal Ceremony— Doc- 
trines and Covenants, 14(j 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Grand Ball at Salt Lake City— Etiquette— Culinary Preparations— Cost of Entertain- 
ment—Author opens the Ball with one of the Wives of the Governor— Beautiful 
Women— Waltzing and Polkas Prohibited— Mrs. Wheelock— The " Three Graces"— 
Extraordinary Cotillion— Mormon Wedding— Spiritual Wives— Favorable Impression 
of the Public Social Life o f the Mormons, .... ... 155 

CHAPTER XXV. 

"Golightly"— His Occupation and Character— Author Patronizes Him— Mrs. Goliglitly 
—She thinks Shakspeare did not understand the Passions of Men— "Oh ! Frailty, thy 
Name is Man 1" — Affecting Incident, . ic,o 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Extraordinary Abuses of the Spiritual Wife System— Fanny Littlemore— The Writer 
paints her Port rait— Her early Life— Attempt by her Parents to force her to marry her 
Uncle at Nauvoo— Her Escape to St. Louis — She writes to her Lover— Terry Littlemore 
—Marriage— Extraordinary Letter— Fanny's Mother exchanges Husbands with her 
Aunt— Her Father also exchanges Wives with her Uncle— Fanny's journey to Salt 
Lake— Terry Littlemore becomes a Mormon— Fanny opposed to Mormonism— Her 
two Sisters become spiritual Wives of a distinguished Mormon— She meets her Father 
and Mother in Salt Lake— The Writer becomes acquainted with her Mother and Uncle— 
His Journey to Parowan with them— Verification, 166 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Arrival of the California Mail— Murder of Mr. Lamphere by Indians on Santa Clara— Hoi 

Springs— Singular Phenomenon — Hot and Cold Springs— Mica — Sulphur — Plumbago 

Rock Salt— Death of Willard B. Richards— Heber C. KembaU— Welsh Colony— Lieut. 
Beckwith's Departure for California, 175 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Departure from Great Salt Lake City— Equipments for the Journey— Author Paints 
Portraits of Gov. Young and Apostles— His Restoration to Health— Snow Storm- 
Cotton Wood Settlement— Willow Creek— Lehigh— Utah Lake— Snow Storm— Pleas- 
ant Grove — Provost — Payson, jgg 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Join Governor Young and Parley Pratt — Hospitality of the Mormons — Apostle Benson — 
Petetnit — Nephi — Wakara (Indian Chief) — Wakara's Camp Ground — Brigham Young's 
Wife — Long Caravan — Arrival at Wakara's Camp — His Refusal to meet the Governor 
—Treaty of Peace not Concluded— Presents of Cattle, etc., to Wakara — Grand Coun- 
cil of Indians and Mormons — Speech of an Old Chief — Address of a " San Pete Chief" 
— Wakara Refuses to Speak — He Dissolves the Council — Reassembling of the Council — 
Brigham Young's Address — Speech of "Wakara" — Peace Proclaimed — Calumet 
Smoked — Indian Capture of Children — Brigham Young's Residence, . . 185 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Portrait of Wakara — Indian chiefs, to accompany the Expedition to Harmony City — 
Seveir River— Swollen Waters — Wagons ferried over— Col. Fremont — Fillmore City — 
Massacre ofCapt. Gunnison — Parowan Indians — Kanosh— Capt. Morris — His conduct 
justified — Author trades for a Horse — Extraordinary Phenomenon of Insects, 195 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Corn Creek — Meadow Creek — Exploration of Vinegar Lake — Mephitic Gas — Sulphuric 
Acid — Sulphur — Alum — Volcanic Appearance of the Country — Beaver River Val- 
ley — Lieut. Beale's Pass into the Valley of the Parowan — Col. Fremont's Pass 
in the same Valley — Author crosses his own Trail made three Months before — His 
Feelings on the Occasion — Red Creek Canon — Hieroglyphics — Granite Rocks — 
Remains of a Town — Arrival at Parowan — Brigham Young — Old Acquaintances, 202 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

Description of Parowan — Cedar City — Fish Lake — Iron Ore — Bituminous Coal — Future 
Destiny of Cedar City — Henry Lunt — Affecting Incident — Portrait of a dead Child — 
A Mother's Gratitude — Harmony City — Parley Pratt — Piede Indians — Personal Priva- 
tions of Mormons — Bid Adieu to Gov. Young — Letter of Introduction to President of 
San Bernandino 209 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

On the Road to California — Iron Springs— Meadow Springs— Entrance to Las Vegas de 
Santa Clara — Prairie Flowers — Rim of the Basin— Santa Clara River — Difficulty of 
Crossing with Wagons — Wounded Indian — Serpentine Course of the River — Waterfall 
—Natural Cave, 215 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Romantic Pass— Rio Virgin Valley— Sterile County— River Bottoms— Acacia Groves — 
Abrupt Descent — Formation of the Country — Pah Utahs — Indian Bow and Arrows — 
Orange color Berries — Effect on the System — Digger Indians — Baptized into Mormon 
Faith — Steep descent — Divide between Rio Virgin and Muddy Rivers — Difficult tra- 
velling—Muddy River described— Author lends his Horse— Approach to the " Great 
Desert," 220 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

Preparations to Cross the Jornada — Fifty-five Miles without Water or Grass — Deserted 
Wagons on the Road — Dead Oxen and Mules — Emigrant Part}' — Clouds of Dust — 
Oasis — Delicious Water — Extraordinary Fresh Water Buoyant Spring — Impossibility 
for a Man to sink in it — Never before Described — Another Jornada of Forty Miles — 
Col. Reese's Train— Detention — Reese Cut off— Snow-Capped Mountains — Bad Roads 
— Mineral Springs — My Mule in Harness'— Animals giving out, .... 228 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Peg-leg Smith — Gold Explorers — Enter upon the Desert — Road strewn with Dead 
Oxen — Poisoned Atmosphere — Deserted Wagons and Horses — Howling Wilderness — 
Excessive Heat — Bitter Springs — Polluted by Dead Animals — Bunch Grass — Reflec- 
tions — Mohahve River — Deserts Surmounted — Horses give Out — On Foot — Dig for 
Water in the Sand — Pleasant Weather — Snowy Mountains — Crossing of the Mohahve 
River — Agave Americana — Cajon pass Sierra Nevada — Descent into the Valley of 
San Bernandino — Arrival at San Bernandino — Variations of the Compass, . 234 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Journey to Los Angeles — Catholic Missions — Fields of Mustard — California Ladles — 
Morals of the People — Gamblers — Description of a " Hell " — Climate of Los Angeles 
— Delicious Fruit — California Wine — Don Manuel Domingues — RanchO — Menada — 
Breaking a Horse — Portraits of Domingues — Salt Lake— Asphaltum Lake — Hot 
Springs of San Juan de Campestrano — Analysis — Geological Examination — Remains 
of a Mastodon- — Don Pio Pico — Ground Squirrels — Strychnine — Brothers Labatt — 
Their Example worthy to be Imitated, 242 

SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 

A Revelation on the Patriarchal order of Matrimony, or Plurality of Wives. Given to 
Joseph Smith, the Seer, in Nauvoo, July 12th, 1843, 251 

CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 
A Discourse delivered in the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, .... 262 

INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 

Consequences of Obedience and Disobedience — Policy towards the Indians — Vigilance. 
An Address delivered at the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, by Brigham Young, 289 

USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 
An Address delivered by Brigham Young, at the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, 311 

MORMONISM. 
A Discourse delivered by Parley P. Pratt, in the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, 829 

LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 
A Sermon delivered at the General Conference, Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, 354 



CARVALHO'S TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES. 



CHAPTER I. 

First Introduction to CoL. Fremont — Author's previous Opinion of Him — His Impulsive 
Resolution to accompany Col. Fremont, as Artist of the Exploring Expedition across 
the Rocky Mountains. 

On the 22d August, 1853, after a short interview with 
Col. J. C. Fremont, I accepted his invitation to accom- 
pany him as artist of an Exploring Expedition across the 
Rocky Mountains. A half hour previously, if anybody 
had suggested to me, the probability of my undertaking 
an overland journey to California, even over the emi- 
grant route, I should have replied there were no induce- 
ments sufficiently powerful to have tempted me. Yet, 
in this instance, I impulsively, without even a consulta- 
tion with my family, passed my word to join an ex- 
ploring party, under command of Col. Fremont, over a 
hitherto untrodden country, in an elevated region, with 
the full expectation of being exposed to all the inclem- 
encies of an arctic winter. I know of no other man to 



18 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

whom I would have trusted my life, under similar cir- 
cumstances. 

Col. Fremont's former extraordinary explorations, his 
astronomical and geographical contributions to the use- 
ful sciences, and his successful pursuit of them under 
difficulties, had deeply interested me, and aided in form- 
ing for him, in my mind, the beau ideal of all that was 
chivalrous and noble. 

His conquest of California, appointment as Governor 
by Commodore Stockton, the jealousy and persecution 
by General Kearney for not acknowledging him instead 
of Commodore Stockton as commander-in-chief, his 
court-martial and subsequent finding of the court, are 
matters of American history, and they reflect no dis- 
honor on the individual who was a distinguished exam- 
ample of the ingratitude of republics. 

The recognition of his claims on the American public 
by the citizens of Charleston, S. C, who presented him 
with an elegant sword and golden scabbard, satisfied me 
that I had formed no incorrect estimate of his character, 
and made me feel an instinctive pride that I, too, drew 
my first breath on the same soil that gave birth to heroes 
and statesmen. 

Entertaining these feelings, the dangers and perils of 
the journey, which Col. Fremont pointed out to me, 
were entirely obscured by the pleasure I anticipated in 
accompanying him, and adding my limited skill to facili- 
tate him in the realization of one of the objects of the 
expedition — which was to obtain an exact description of 
the face of the country over which we were to travel. 

The party consisted of twenty-two persons ; among 
them were ten Delaware chiefs ; and two Mexicans. 
The officers were : Mr. Egloffstein, topographical en- 



HEMBEKS OF THE EXPEDITION. 10 

neer ; Mr. Strobel, assistant ; Mr. Oliver Fuller, assis- 
tant engineer ; Mr. S. N. Carvalho, artist and daguerreo- 
typist ; Mr. W. H. Palmer, passenger. 

The expedition was fitted out, I think, at the indivi- 
dual expense of Col. Fremont. 



20 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER H. 

Preparations for the Journey — Daguerreotype Outfit — Scientific Knowledge required 
— Departure from New York — Alden's Preserved Food — Esteem of Col. Fremont's 
former Companions for him — Arrival at St. Louis — Steamboat F. X. Aubrey — Com- 
pagnons de Voyage — Arrival at Kansas. 

The preparations for my journey occupied about ten 
days, during which time I purchased all the necessary 
materials for making a panorama of the country, by 
daguerreotype process, over which we had to pass. 

To make daguerreotypes in the open air, in a tempera- 
ture varying from freezing point to thirty degrees below 
zero, requires different manipulation from the processes 
by which pictures are made in a warm room. My profes- 
sional friends were all of the opinion that the elements 
would be against my success. Buffing and coating 
plates, and mercurializing them, on the summit of the 
Rocky Mountains, standing at times up to one's middle 
in snow, with no covering above save the arched vault 
of heaven, seemed to our city friends one of the impos- 
sibilities — knowing as they did that iodine will not give 
out its fumes except at a temperature of 70° to 80° 
Fahrenheit. I shall not appear egotistical if I say that 
I encountered many difficulties, but I was well prepared 
to meet them by having previously acquired a scientific 
and practical knowledge of the chemicals I used, as well 
as of the theory of light : a firm determination to sue- 



DAGUERREOTYPES ON THE MOUNTAINS. 21 

ceed also aided me in producing results which, to my 
knowledge, have never been accomplished under simi- 
lar circumstances. 

While suffering from frozen feet and hands, without 
food for twenty-four hours, travelling on foot over 
mountains of snow, I have stopped on the trail, made 
pictures of the country, re-packed my materials, and 
found myself frequently with my friend Egloffstien, 
who generally remained with me to make barometri- 
cal observations, and a muleteer, some five or six 
miles behind camp, which was only reached with 
great expense of bodily as well as mental suffering. 
The great secret, however, of my untiring perseverance 
and continued success, was that my honor was pledged 
to Col. Fremont to perform certain duties, and I would 
rather have died than not have redeemed it. I made 
pictures up to the very day Col. Fremont found it neces- 
sary to bury the whole baggage of the camp, including 
the daguerreotype apparatus. He has since told me 
that my success, under the frequent occurrence of what 
he considered almost insuperable difficulties, merited 
his unqualified approbation. 

I left New York on the 5th September, 1853, having 
in charge the daguerreotype apparatus, painting mate- 
rials, and half a dozen cases of Alden's preserved coffee, 
eggs, cocoa, cream, and milk, which he sent out for the 
purpose of testing their qualities. There was in them 
sufficient nourishment to have sustained twenty men for 
a month. I purchased a ticket by the Illinois River to 
St. Louis, but the water was so low in the river that it 
wa3 deemed advisable to cross over to Alton by stage, 
as I was afraid of being detained. The cases of instru- 
ments were very heavy, and the proprietor of the stage 



22 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

refused to take tliein-; it being night, I remonstrated 
with him, telling him of the importance that they should 
arrive at St. Louis; he peremptorily refused to take them. 
I, of course, had to succumb, and remarked inadver- 
tently how disappointed Col. Fremont would be in not 
receiving them. At the mention of Col. Fremont's 
name, he asked me if those cases were Fremont's ? I 
told him, yes. He sang out for his boy to harness up 
an extra team of horses, and stow away the boxes. " I 
will put them through for Fremont, without a cent ex- 
pense. I was with him on one of his expeditions, and a 
nobler specimen of mankind does not live about these 
parts." I was put through in good time, but he would 
not receive a cent for my passage, or freight of the 
boxes, which together would have amounted to eight 
dollars. 

I arrived at St. Louis at twelve o'clock. Col. Fre- 
mont was at Col. Brant's house, where I immediately 
called. The Colonel was very glad to see me ; he had 
telegraphed several times, and I had been anxiously ex- 
pected. We left that same afternoon in the steamer 
F. X. Aubrey, for Kansas. On board, I found Mr. 
EglofTstien, the topographical engineer, Mr. Oliver Ful- 
ler, and Mr. Bomar, the photographist. Our journey 
was somewhat protracted by the shallowness of the 
water in the river, and we did not arrive at Kansas 
until the 14th. 



ARRIVAL AT KANSAS. 23 



CHAPTER III. 

Landing of Camp Equipage — Westport — First Camp Ground — Preparations — Extortion 
— Author and Companions — First Daguerreotypes — Rain Storm — Distribution of Anns 
and Ammunition — Engagement of Delaware Chiefs— Branding of Animals — California 
Saddle-Horses — Selects his Pony — Becomes his own Ostler — Description of Catch- 
ing a Mule on the Mountains — Examination of Camp Equipage — Trial Start — First 
Camp. 

When we landed, we met Mr. Palmer and several of 
the men who were to accompany the Expedition as 
muleteers, etc. The equipage of the camp that had 
been previously shipped from St. Louis, had arrived 
safely. As soon as our baggage was landed, it, together 
with the rest of the material, was transported by wagons 
to camp near Westport, a few miles in the interior. 

Our tents were raised, and active preparation for our 
journey was immediately commenced. Several droves 
of mules came in next day from which Col. Fremont 
selected a few. Very near two prices were exacted by 
the owners ; it being necessary that we should proceed 
without delay, we were obliged to submit to extortion. 

Mr. Egloffstien, Mr. Bomar and myself, found com- 
fortable quarters at a hotel where we put up, in order 
to be ready for the journey, our various apparatus. 

Mr. Bomar, proposed to make photographs by the 
wax process, and several days were consumed in pre- 
paring the paper, etc. I was convinced that photo- 
graphs could not be made by that process as quickly as 



24 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

the occasion required, and told Col. Fremont to have 
one made from the window of our room, to find out 
exactly the time. The preparations not being entirely 
completed, a picture could not be made that day ; but 
on the next, when we were all in camp, Col. Fremont 
requested that daguerreotypes and photographs should 
be made. In half an hour from the time the word was 
given, my daguerreotype was made ; but the photograph 
could not be seen until next day, as it had to remain in 
water all night, which was absolutely necessary to de- 
velop it. Query, where was water to be had on the 
mountains, with a temperature of 20° below zero ? To 
be certain of a result, even if water could be procured, it 
was necessary by his process, to wait twelve hours, 
consequently, every time a picture was to be made, the 
camp must be delayed twelve hours. Col. Fremont 
finding that he could not see immediate impressions, 
concluded not to incur the trouble and expense of trans- 
porting the apparatus, left it at Westport, together with 
the photographer. The' whole dependence was now on 
me. Col. Fremont told me if I had the slightest doubts 
of succeeding, it were better to say so now, and he would 
cancel the agreement on my part, and pay me for my 
time, etc. 

On the night of the 20th, all hands slept in camp, 
a heavy rain-storm drenched us completely, giving 
to the party an introduction to a life on the prairies. The 
necessity of India-rubber blankets became evident, and 
I was dispatched to Westport to procure them. There 
were none to be had. I sent a man to Independence to 
purchase two dozen ; he travelled thirty miles that 
night, and by ten next morning I had them in camp. 
They were the most useful articles we had with us ; we 



ENGAGEMENT OF DEL A WAKES. 25 

placed the India-rubber side on the snow, our buffalo 
robes on the top of that for a bed, and covered with our 
blankets, with an India-rubber blanket over the whole — 
India-rubber side up, to turn the rain. We generally 
slept double, which added to our comfort, as we commu- 
nicated warmth to each other, and had the advantage 
of two sets of coverings. During the whole journey, 
exposed to the most furious snow-storms, I never slept 
cold, although when I have been called for guard I often 
found some difficulty in rising from the weight of snow 
resting on me. 

The distribution of arms and ammunition to the men 
occupied a portion of the next day. Each person had a 
rifle and Colt's revolver. Some of the Delawares had 
horsemen's pistols also. The messenger Col. Fremont 
sent to the Delaware camp returned, with a number of 
braves, some of whom had accompanied Col. Fremont 
on a former expedition — he selected ten, among whom 
was a chief named Solomon, who had been with him 
before, and for whom Col. Fremont felt a great friend- 
ship. They were entertained with dinner, and after a 
smoke, each had a small quantity of the brandy we 
brought for medicinal purposes. They left us, to make 
preparations for the expedition, and to join us near the 
Kansas Eiver, about one hundred miles westward. 

A most amusing scene, although attended with some 
pain to the animals, was enacted to-day ; it was the 
process of branding them with a distinctive mark. We 
had an iron made with the letter F, which we used to 
designate ours from those belonging to others. 

A long rope with a noose and slip knot was fastened 
round the neck of the mule, the other round a tree ; 
two men with another rope twisted it about its legs, 

2 



26 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

when with a sudden jerk it was thrown to the ground ; 
the red hot iron is now applied to the fleshy part of the 
hip — a terrible kicking and braying ensues, but it was 
always the sign that the work was done effectually. 

In California, the most beautiful and valuable saddle 
horses are branded with a large unseemly mark on some 
prominent part of the body or neck, which would in this 
locality depreciate the value of the animals. I selected 
an Indian pony for myself; he was recommended as 
being a first rate buffalo horse ; that is to say, he was 
trained to hunt buffaloes. This animal was given into 
my own charge, and I only then began to realize that I 
had entered into duties which I was unqualified to per- 
form. I had never saddled a horse myself. My seden- 
tary employment in a city, never having required me 
to do such offices ; and now I was to become my own 
ostler, and ride him to water twice a day, besides run- 
ning after him on the prairie for an hour sometimes 
before I could catch him. This onerous duty I finally 
performed as well as my companions. But, dear reader, 
follow me to a camp on the mountains of snow, where 
I exchanged my horse for a mule, at daylight, with the 
thermometer 20° below zero. Do you see, far away 
on the hill-side, an animal moving slowly ? that is my 
mule ; he is searching among the deep snows for a bite 
of blighted grass or the top of some wild bush to break 
his fast on. How will you get him ? I will go for him ; 
watch me while I tramp through the frozen snow. My 
mule sees me, and knowing that my errand is to pre- 
pare him for his day's journey, without first giving him 
provender to enable him to perform it, prefers to eat 
his scanty breakfast first, and moves leisurely along ; 
his lariat, about thirty feet in length, trails along the 



CATCHING A MULE. 27 

ground. I have reached it, and at the moment I think 
I have him securely, he dashes away at a full gallop, 
pulling me after him through the snow ; perfectly 
exhausted, I loose my hold ; my hands lacerated and 
almost frozen. I lie breathless on the icy carpet. I 
am now a mile from camp, and out of sight of my com- 
panions. I renew my exertions, and gently approach 
him ; this time he stands quiet, and I gather the rope 
in my hand, and pat him for a few minutes, and then 
mount him bare backed. The life and activity he pos- 
sessed a few moments before, is entirely gone ; he stands 
like a mule in the snow, determined not to budge a 
step. I coax, I kick him. I use the other end of 
the rope over his head ; he dodges the blow ; but his 
fore-feet are immovably planted in the snow, as if they 
grew there. I, worn out, and almost frozen, remain 
chewing the cud of bitter reflection, until one of my 
comrades comes to seek and assist me ; he goes behind 
the mule and gives him a slight touch a posteriori ; 
when, awakening from his trance, he starts at a hard 
trot into camp, quietly submits to be saddled, and looks 
as pleasantly at me as if he were inquiring how I liked 
the exercise of catching him. Similar scenes occurred 
daily ; if it were not with myself it was with another. 
" Stubborn as a mule," is an o'er true adage, as I can 
fully testify. 

A general examination of the equipage resulted in the 
knowledge that everything requisite for our journey, 
had been procured, and scales were in requisition to 
apportion the weight of luggage ; 65 to 901b. for each 
mule. The personal luggage of the men was restricted 
to a certain number of pounds — and all useless apparel, 
books etc., etc., were packed up and sent back to town. 



28 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

"We intended to pack on mules all the way, and it was 
necessary to take as little as possible of what we did 
not absolutely require. 

A trial start was made, and the cavalcade started in 
excellent order and spirits, and we camped at the 
Methodist mission, about six miles from "Westport. 



INDISPOSITION OF COL. FEEMONT. 29 



CHAPTER IV. 

Shawnee Mission— Indisposition of Col. Fremont— He returns to Westport— The 
Expedition proceeds onward— Sunrise on the Prairies— Meeting of our Delawares 
—Pottawatomie trading Post— Author turns Carpenter— Expediency— A Kansas 
Blacksmith—" Astonishment "—Quarter Master— Persecution— Success against Con- 
spiracy. 

We remained at the Methodist Mission until the next 
day, when we proceeded to the Shawnee Mission, a few 
miles further, and camped for the night. It was at this 
spot that Mr. Max Strobel made his appearance. He 
had been attached to Col. Stevens' expedition, but had 
left it on account of some misunderstanding with the 
officer in command. He requested Col. Fremont to 
allow him to accompany his expedition as a volunteer 
and he would contribute his services as assistant topo- 
grapher, &c. Col. Fremont hesitated, as his company 
was complete, but finally yielded to his continued 
entreaties. Col. Fremont, who had been slightly indis- 
posed during the day, finding himself worse, decided to 
return to Westport, requesting us to continue on our 
journey until we met the Delawares, and then to encamp 
and await his return. The Col. returned to Westport, 
accompanied by Mr. Strobel, for whom it was necessary 
to purchase an outfit. 

24th. — We travelled during this day on the open 
prairie. The weather was hazy and considerable rain 



30 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

fell during the last twenty- four hours ; we camped on the 
open plains for the first time. At dawn of day I was 
up ; I found the weather perfectly clear ; and in breath- 
less expectation of seeing the sun rise, I saddled my 
pony, determined to ride away from the camp — made 
my way through the long grass, for a considerable dis- 
tance, before I perceived any inclination on the part of 
the majestic king of day to awake from his royal couch. 
Gradually the eastern horizon assumed a warmer hue, 
while some floating clouds along its edge, developed 
their form against the luminous heavens. The dark 
grey morning tints were superseded by hues of the 
most brilliant and gorgeous colors, which almost as 
imperceptibly softened, as the glorious orb of day com- 
menced his diurnal course, and illumined the vault 
above ; a slight rustling of the long grass, caused by a 
deliciously pleasant zephyr, which made it move in 
gentle undulation, was all that disturbed the mysterious 
silence that prevailed. I alighted from my pony, and 
gave him the range of his lariat. I perceived, that he 
preferred a breakfast of fresh grass, to the contempla- 
tion of the sublime scene around me, to which he seemed 
totally indifferent. 

My heart beat with fervent anxiety, and whilst I felt 
happy, and free from the usual care and trouble, I still 
could not master the nervous debility which seized me 
while surve3 r ing the grand and majestic works of nature. 
"Was it fear ? no ; it was the conviction of my own 
insignificance, in the midst of the stupendous creation ; 
the undulating grass seemed to carry my thoughts on 
its rolling surface, into an impenetrable future ; — glori- 
ous in inconceivable beauty, extended over me, the 
ethereal tent of heaven, my eye losing its power of dis- 



REFLECTIONS ON THE PRAIRIE. 31 

tant vision, seemed to reach down only to the verdant 
sea before me. 

There was no one living being present with whom I 
could share nry admiration. Still life, unceasing eternal 
life, was everywhere around me. I was far away from 
the comforts of my home, not even in sight of a wig- 
wam of the aboriginal inhabitants of the forests. 

A deep sigh of longing for the society of man wrested 
itself from my breast. Shall I return, and not accom- 
plish the object of my journey? No. I cannot; does 
not the grass, glittering in the morning dew in the un- 
broken rays of the sun, beckon me a pleasant welcome 
over its untrodden surface. I will onward, and trust to 
the Great Spirit, who lives in every tree and lonely 
flower, for my safe arrival at the dwelling of my fellow- 
men, far beyond the invisible mountains over which my 
path now lies. 

27th. — To-day we met our Delawares, who were 
awaiting our arrival. A more noble set of Indians I 
never saw, the most of them six feet high, all mounted 
and armed cap-a-pie, under command of Captain "Wolff, 
a " Big Indian," as he called himself. Most of them 
spoke English, and all understood it. "Washington," 
" Welluchas," "Solomon," "Moses," were the names of 
some of the principal chiefs. They became very much 
attached to Col. Fremont, and every one of them would 
have ventured his life for him. 

Near the principal town of the Pottawatomies we 
remained encamped until the end of September, await- 
ing Col. Fremont. Two or three stores with no assort- 
ment of goods, and about thirty shanties make up the 
town. I went to every house in the place for a break- 
fast, but could not get anything to eat except some 



32 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAB WEST. 

Boston crackers, ten pounds of which (the whole supply 
in the town) I bought. My ride into the town was for 
the purpose of having strong boxes made to carry my 
daguerreotype apparatus. The baskets in which they 
had been packed being broken and unfit for use. There 
was not a carpenter, nor any tools to be had in town. 
There . was a blacksmith' s about ten miles from town, 
where it was likely I could procure them. It being 
absolutely necessary that I should have the boxes, I 
induced one of our Delawares to accompany me, carry- 
ing on our horses a sufficient quantity of dry goods box 
covers and sides to manufacture them. When we ar- 
rived at the blacksmith's house, the proprietor was ab- 
sent. His wife, an amiable woman, prepared dinner for 
us, and gave us the run of the workshop, where I found 
a saw and hatchet ; with these instruments I made the 
boxes myself, and by the time they were finished, the 
blacksmith returned. He refused to receive pay for 
my dinner, but charged for the nails, raw hide, etc., I 
covered the boxes with, and the use of his tools. The 
lady told me I was the first white man she had seen, 
except her husband, in three years. I gave some silver 
to the children, and mounting our horses, with a huge 
box before us on our saddles, we slowly retraced our 
way to camp, where we arrived at dark. Nobody 
in camp knew my errand to town, and I never shall 
forget the deep mortification and astonishment of our 
muleteers when they saw my boxes. All their bright 
hopes that the apparatus would have to be left, were 
suddenly dissipated. The expenses attendant on the 
manufacture of the boxes, and the material, were nearly 
five dollars, which I requested our quarter-master to 
pay, as Col. Fremont left him money for disbursements ; 



CARELESS PACKING OF THE MULES. 33 

he refused, at first, but was finally induced to do so 
under protest. I have every reason to believe that rny 
baskets were purposely destroyed ; and but for my 
watchful and unceasing care, they would have been 
rendered useless. The packing of the apparatus was 
attended with considerable trouble to the muleteers, 
and also to the officer whose duty it was to superintend 
the loading and unloading of the mules ; and they all 
wanted to be rid of the labor. Hence the persecution 
to which I was subjected on this account. Complaints 
were continually being made to Col. Fremont, during 
the journey, that the weights of the boxes were not 
equalized. Twice I picked up on the road the tin case 
containing my buff, &c, which had slipped off the 
mules, from careless packing — done purposely; for if 
they had not been fortunately found by me, the rest of 
the apparatus would have been useless. On one occa- 
sion, the keg containing alcohol was missing ; Col. Fre- 
mont sent back after it, and it was found half emptied 
on the road. 

I am induced to make these remarks to show the 
perseverance and watchfulness I had to exercise to pre- 
vent the destruction of the apparatus by our own men. 



9* 



34: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER V. 

Letter to W. n. Palmer— Col. Fremont's Return to St. Louis, and increased Illness- 
Expedition under charge of Delawares — Camp Proceeds to " Smoky Hills " — Fort 
Riley — Solomon's Fork — First Buffalo — Barometers go on a Buffalo Hunt — Encamp- 
ment on "Salt Creek" — Indian Method of Cooking Buffalo Meat — Olla Podrida — 
Wasting of Provisions — Kinnikinick — Havana Segars — Indian Amusements — Camp 
Life — Hewers of Wood and Drawers of Water — Author's Opinion of Col. Fremont — 
He Nominates him for the Presidency. 

After remaining at this camp two clays, Mr. Strobel 
arrived with a letter from Col. Fremont to Mr. Palmer, 
stating that his increasing illness made it necessary that 
he should return to St. Louis for medical advice, and 
directed us to proceed as far as Smoky Hills, and en- 
camp on the Saline fork of the Kansas River, where 
there were plenty of buffalo, and remain there until he 
joined us, which he hoped would be in a fortnight. 

The expedition, during encampment, was to be under 
the supervision of Mr. Palmer. Accordingly, we con- 
tinued our journey, and crossed the Kansas River at its 
junction with the Republican, within half a mile from 
Fort Riley, thence to Solomon's Fork, in crossing which 
creek, some of the baggage of the camp became satu- 
rated with water. 

Immediately after crossing Solomon's Fork, we saw 
our first buffalo. As soon as he was discovered, our 
Delawares gave a whoop, and they all started, heifer 
skelfor, the omV'.Ts air] muleteers following, Leaving the 



BAROMETEKS ON A BUFFALO HUNT. 35 

baggage animals to take care of themselves. Our engi- 
neer, Mr. Egloffstien, after the first excitement had 
passed, suddenly drew rein — I did so likewise. 

He remarked, " I have been at full speed for a mile, 
with both barometers slung across my back." 

I never saw any one look so alarmed as he did. I 
had exchanged ponies, to give him an easy-going animal, 
so as not to shake the instruments, and now his rashness 
had probably injured them. He alighted and examined 
them ; luckily, they were well packed with cotton, and 
they were not at all disarranged. Our buffalo was soon 
killed ; and that night we made an encampment on a 
beautiful site near Salt Creek, and about four miles from 
the Kansas Kiver, with buffalo steaks for supper. 

[Extract from a Letter.] 

Dear S : 

We are now encamped, as it were, for a pleasure 
excursion, for all the day is employed in hunting, gun- 
ning, shooting at a mark with rifles, and preparing buf- 
falo meat in all the modes in which it is said to be 
good. 

I was much amused, the first day we encamped here, 
to see the Indians go into the woods on the creek, and 
bring out straight green sticks, the size of a small walk- 
ing-cane, and proceed to divest them of their outer 
peeling — also pointing them at both ends. 

I soon discovered their use : they cut the buffalo meat 
in strips about an inch thick, four wide, and twelve to 
fifteen long. The stick is then inserted in the meat, as 
boys do a kite stick ; one end of the stick is then stuck 
in the ground, near the fire, and the process of roasting 
is complete — the natural juice of the meat is retained, in 



36 TKAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

this manner, and I think it the most preferable way to 
cook game. The breast of a fat antelope prepared thus 
is a most fitting dish for a hungry man. 

Several kinds of game were brought into camp this 
evening, buffalo, antelope, and deer, by the Indians, 
and our most successful gunner, Mr. Fuller, brought in 
two wild turkeys, three ducks, a rabbit, and a prairie 
hen, the result of his day's sport. Our cook for the 
nonce is making a splendid Olla Podrida. This is our 
first week in camp, and we are living sumptuously — 
coffee, tea, and sugar three or four times a day. 

I have no control of the commissariat department, but 
I very much fear that we shall want some of the good 
things which are now being inconsiderately wasted. 
Our quarter-master is determined to enjoy himself — his 
motto is " dum vivimus vivamus." 

While I am writing, I am smoking a pipe filled with 
" Kinnikinick," the dried leaves of the reel sumach ; it 
is pleasant and not intoxicating— a very good substitute 
for tobacco. The Delawares have been preparing some 
for their journey. They smoke it mixed with tobacco. 

My quarter-box of Havanas are all gone, already; 
they were the only ones in camp, and every time I took 
out my pouch, I of course handed it round to my com- 
panions, which soon diminished my store. I close this 
letter by giving you a description of an Indian game, 
which our Delawares participated in last night. 

A large fire of dried wood is brightly burning — around 
it sit, cross-legged, all our Delawares ; behind them are 
the rest of us, standing looking on. I contributed the 
article (which was a large imitation seal ring, several 
of which I bought to exchange with the Indians for 
moccasins) with which they amused themselves. One 



INDIAN GAMES. 37 

of them took the ring, and while the rest are chanting 
Highya, Highya, he makes sundry contortions of his 
limbs, and pretends to place it in the hands of the one 
next to him. This one goes through with the same 
antics, until all have had it or are supposed to have had 
it. The first one then guesses who has the ring ; if suc- 
cessful, he wins the ring ; if not, he contributes tobacco 
for a smoke ; a pipe is filled, which is generally a toma- 
hawk with a bowl at the butt-end ; the handle is hollow, 
and communicates with the bowl, thus forming a weapon 
of war, as well as the calumet of peace ; each one takes 
two or three puffs and then passes it around. 

Dear S : 



The duties of camp life are becoming more 
onerous as the weather gets colder. It is expected that 
each man in camp will bring in a certain quantity of 
fire-wood ! My turn came to day, and I am afraid I 
shall make a poor hand in using the axe ; first, I have 
not the physical strength, and secondly, I do not know 
how. I managed by hunting through the woods to find 
several decayed limbs, which I brought in on my 
shoulder. I made three trips, and I have at all events 
supplied the camp with kindling wood for the night. 

I certainly, being a " Republican," do not expect to 
warm myself at the expense of another ; therefore, 
arduous as it is, I must, to carry out the principle of 
equality, do as the rest do, although it is not a very 
congenial occupation. 

* * * ■* % * 

'Tis very strange how fallacious ideas of mankind 
obtain stronghold in the minds of those who should 
know better. The night previous to leaving home, 1 



38 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

was asked how I could venture my life with such a man 
as Col. Fremont ? " A mountaineer " — " an adven- 
turer " — " a man of no education." 

During my voyage up the Missouri, I had continual 
opportunities of conversing with Col. Fremont. 

If you ever see Mr. and Mrs. , please say to 

them, that the character of Col. Fremont as a gentle- 
man of " high literary attainments," " great mental 
capacity," and " solid scientific knowledge," is firmly 
established in my own mind. 

These personal observations, added to the knowledge 
I gained of him from report, has brought me to the con- 
clusion that he is not only a " man of education," but a 
" man of genius and a gentleman." One would sup- 
pose that the " conqueror of California," " the successful 
commander and governor," would have a little to say 
about himself — some deeds to vaunt of — some battle to 
describe. I found him reserved, almost to taciturnity, 
yet perfectly amiable withal. No one, to see him, 
would ever imagine that a man of great deeds was 
before him. 

My estimation of character is seldom wrong. I may 
have been imprudent in undertaking this journey, which 
already " thunders in the index," and on which I shall 
have to encounter many personal difficulties; but, if 
I felt safe enough to impulsively decide to accompany 
him, without personally knowing him— how much safer 
do I now feel from the short time I have known him ! 

All the men in camp have the same opinion of him. 

Yesterday, while discussing the merits of the most 
prominent men who were likely to be placed before the 
people for the " next President," I mentioned the 
name of " Col. Fremont." It was received with ac- 



col. fkemont's nomination. 39 

clamation, and he is the first choice of every man in 
camp. So you see I am safe enough with the man — it 
is only the mountains which are the " stumbling blocks." 
Yet I have full faith that I shall return once more to 
you in safety. 



40 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Kansas Territory— Arkansas and Kansas Rivers— Tributaries— Timber— River Bottoms 
—Varieties of Game— Cereals— Coal— Geological Formation— Adventure in the Woods 
—Wild Grapes— Indian Method of procuring them— Brandy vs. Poison— Return of 
the Author's Brandy-flask— He turns Washerwoman— Novel Mode of Mangling Clothes 
— Lost Mule — Beaver Trappers — Rifle Practice. 

Kansas lies between the thirty-seventh and fortieth 
degrees of north latitude. The Indian Territory bounds 
it on the south, Utah and New Mexico on the west, 
Nebraska on the north, and Missouri on the east. 

There are numberless streams of water in the Ter- 
ritory. The Arkansas which rises in the Rocky Moun- 
tains, runs nearly six hundred miles through it. Kansas 
River, which empties into the Missouri near Kansas 
City, has many forks of considerable size, viz., the 
Republican, Solomon Fork, Grand Saline Fork, Vermil- 
ion, Little Vermilion, Soldier Creek, Grasshopper 
Creek, Big Blue, Pawnee Fork, Walnut Creek, "Waka- 
rusa, and several others. The country is well watered, 
and on all the rivers grows timber of large size and in 
great variety. The river bottoms are very fertile, being 
covered with an alluvial black soil from twelve to 
twenty-four inches deep. These bottoms vary in width 
from four to seven miles. 

Another bottom over which the waters must have once 
flowed, is elevated about sixteen feet from the river, 
and high up some sixty to seventy feet, lies the immense 



PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY. 41 

undulating prairie, teeming with buffalo, blacktail, deer, 
antelope, sage, and prairie chickens. Thousands of 
cayottes — a small wolf, make night hideous with their 
shrill discordant bark. The large white wolf is also 
found in great numbers on the rivers. We killed wild 
turkeys and ducks. The second bottoms are studded 
with groves of timber. The various kinds of oak, 
maple, elm, red-flowered maple, black walnut, locust, 
beech, box, elder, wild-cherry, and cotton-wood, attain 
a large size, and are to be found on the Kansas River 
and its many tributaries in quantities. 

Grasses of a hundred different kinds, some of them 
rank and high, but the most of them possessing highly 
nutritive qualities, grow spontaneously on the prairies, 
and afford nourishment to immense quantities of game. 

The water of the Kansas partakes in color of the 
character of the soil over which it passes. It is, I am 
inclined to believe, always turbid. I found it quite 
unfit for daguerreotype purposes, and had to preserve 
many of my plates until we approached the crystal 
streams from the Rocky Mountains, to finish them. 
During our long camp on Salt Creek, our topographical 
engineer and myself explored the country for miles. 
Coal in abundance is to be obtained with but little exer- 
tion ; in many instances it crops out on the surface of the 
ground. The general character of the formation of this 
country is the same as Missouri — a secondary limestone. 

Dear S : 



To-day we had a delightful jaunt through the 
woods which fringe the forests of Salt Creek. Cotton- 
wood, oak, elm, ash, hickory, grow luxuriously, some 
of them to an immense height. Our Delaware that 



42 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

accompanied Egloflstien and myself suddenly stopped, 
and pointed upward. There, at a height of over one 
hundred feet, suspended between two oaks, were grape- 
vines loaded with rich luscious looking fruit. 

How were we to obtain them ? I could not climb so 
tall a tree. Mr. Egloffstien declined, and we both de- 
pended on our Delaware. He looked very grave 
and said : " Suppose Delaware want grapes, he know 
how to get them." 

By this time our desire increased to obtain the prize, 
which seemed to say, " Come and take me." I com- 
menced climbing one tree, and my friend the other. 
"When we had exerted ourselves, and had reached the 
first limb, on which we stopped to rest, we heard a grunt 
from our Delaware, and almost at the same moment, 
the whole vine came tumbling down on his head. 

He purposely waited until we were in the trees, to 
see how " white men gathered grapes." He took hold 
of the grape vine, and with one tremendous pull, 
down it came ; when we descended, he was quietly stow- 
ing away the choicest bunches in his hunting shirt. I 
never would have dreamed of destroying such a noble 
vine, to gratify my appetite. 

The grapes were small, but sweet and well flavored. 
I ate a great many of them. I had been without 
fruit or vegetables for four weeks, and they were very 
grateful to me. I hope I shall not suffer for my impru- 
dence. Good night. 

BRANDY VerSUS POISON. 

Previous to leaving New York, I had two tin flasks 
made, to contain about a quart each, which I intended 



THE STOLEN BRANDY. 43 

to have filled with alcohol for daguerreotype purposes. 
At "Westport, I purchased a quart of the best quality 
of old cognac, filled one of them for medicinal pur- 
poses, and carefully packed my flask in my daguerreo- 
type boxes. One day during our camp at Salt Creek, 
one of our Indians being ill, I opened my flask and pour- 
ing out about an ounce, replaced it. I noticed, however, 
that a chemical action had taken place, turning the 
brandy exactly the color of ink. One of our mess saw 
me open my box and appropriate a portion of the contents 
of the bottle ; I am not certain but that I tasted it myself. 

The next day I had occasion to go to my box, when 
to my utter astonishment, my flask of brandy was gone. 
I immediately suspected the very person who afterwards 
proved to be the thief. Keeping my loss a secret, at 
dinner I carefully watched the countenances and actions 
of the whole party, and the effects of liquor were plain- 
ly visible on the person of this man. 

" How excellent," said I, " would a bottle of old cog- 
nac be as a digester to our tough old buffalo bull. — 
Gentlemen, how would you like a drop ? " " Bring it 
forward by all means, Carvalho. You have, I verily be- 
lieve, Pandora's box ; for you can produce everything 
and anything at a moment's notice, from a choice Ha- 
vana to old brandy." 

""With your leave, gentlemen, I will procure it. I 
have two flasks exactly alike ; one contains poison, a mix- 
ture of alcohol, and some poisonous chemicals for mak- 
ing daguerreotypes ; the other contains the best brandy 
to be had on the Kansas River." 

I went to my box, and turning up my hands with an 
exclamation of surprise, announced to the mess that the 
" bottle containing the poison, and which I laid on the 



44 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

top of my box last night, is missing." Like Hamlet I 
looked into the face of the delinquent, and I never shall 
forget his expression when I remarked that " the liquid in 
the purloined flask was poison, and perfectly black, and 
although it would not kill immediately, an ounce will 
produce certain death in 48 hours." 

" Gentlemen ! I shall, in consequence, have to reserve 
the brandy to make another similar mixture, to substi- 
tute for alcohol ; therefore I am sorry I cannot treat 
you as I intended." 

Of course the innocent parties felt indignant that my 
flask had been stolen, and that one of their party was 
suspected. 

The thief was discovered, although he nor any one 
else knew that I detected him. The next day I went to 
my box again, and in its proper place, I found my brandy 
flask about half full. Our friend had taken several strong 
pulls during the night and morning, and likely enough 
he looked at the contents, and finding them black as ink, 
believed all about the poison, and fearing to die, 
replaced the flask, without detection. When I discov- 
ered it, I showed it around and also the color of the con- 
tents, and told them it was not poison but " good old 
brandy." I tasted a little, and divided it among the 
party. 

The man that took it knew I suspected him, and his 
whole conduct to me during the journey, was influenced 
by that event, although I never taxed him with it. 

Dear S : 

Yesterday being a fine, mild clay, I thought I 
would examine my wardrobe, and have such articles as 
I had worn during the last three weeks washed. I col 



AUTHOR HIS OWN WASHERWOMAN. 45 

lected three shirts, as many pairs of stockings, together 
with handkerchiefs and drawers ; I made up a dozen 
pieces ; and I assure you, that how or by whom they 
were to be washed, never entered into my mind. I 
offered some compensation to one of our muleteers if 
he would wash them, but he was perfectly independent 
of the necessity of earning money in that way. I soon 
discovered, that I would have to become my own 
washerwoman ; and obtaining some soap from the 
quarter master, I gathered up my duds, and made my 
way down the banks of the creek, to a convenient place, 
and there I entered upon my novitiate. I rubbed the 
skin off my hands during the operation, but after con- 
siderable application, I succeeded in cleansing them, 
and hung them out to dry. I doubled them up, and 
laid them carefully under my buffalo robe couch, last 
night ; and this morning they are as smooth as if they 
had been " mangled." To-day I employed myself 
making a pair of buckskin mitts and moccasins, as I 
shall require them before many weeks ; most of the 
Indians and muleteers are out, looking for a large black 
mule, the finest animal in the collection, which was 
missing last night. 

Yesterday two beaver trappers came into the Dela- 
ware camp, and traded for sugar and coffee with the 
Delawares. I have my suspicions that our mule con- 
veyed them away, as they are no longer on the creek 
where they set their traps yesterday. 

I must leave off my journal, as it is my usual hour for 
rifle practice ; I have become quite an expert ; at one 
hundred paces, I have hit the " bull's eye " twice in 
five times, which is not bad shooting, considering I have 
had no practice since I was a member of a rifle volun- 

tpp.r nnmnnnv in fThnvloatrm ormid twontv vpavj ncrn 



46 TEAYEL8 AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Delaware Medicine Man— Illness of Capt. Wolff— Author turns Doctor— Empty Com- 
missariat — Expedition to Fort Riley for Fresh Supplies— Professor Espy's Theory of 
Rain— Indians on Kansas Prairies— Sleet and Snow Storm — Tent Blown Down — 
Approach of Cold Weather — " Pony Missing." 



DELAWARE MEDICINE MAN. 

For several clays, Capt. Wolff, the chief of our Dela- 
wares, had been ailing, this morning I noticed some 
unusual preparations in their camp, on inquiring I was 
told that, in the woods, Capt. Wolff, who was very sick, 
was undergoing the Indian ceremony of " incantation," 
by one of the tribe, who was " a great medicine man." 
The ceremony was conducted in secret, but I found out 
afterwards the place, and from the mode which was ex- 
plained to me, I understood the rite perfectly. A small 
lodge, composed of the branches of trees, high enough 
for a man to sit upright in, was built ; in this the patient 
was placed in a state of perfect nudity. " The Medicine 
Man," who is outside, takes a " pipe," filled with " kin- 
nikinick and tobacco," and hands it in to the patient. 
While the Medicine Man recites the " all powerful 
words," the patient puffs away until the lodge is filled 
with smoke ; when the poor devil is almost suffocated, 
and exhausted, he is taken out, wrapped in his blankets, 
and conveyed to his own lodge. 

Feeling anxious about him, I went in to see him 



AN EMPTY CUPBOARD. 47 

about an hour afterwards ; I found him in a high state 
of febrile excitement, which had, no doubt, been in- 
creased by his extraordinary treatment ; he complained 
of dreadful headache and pain in his back. He thought 
he was going to die. I told him if he would submit to 
my advice I thought I could cure him — he consented, 
and I administered ten grains of calomel, and four hours 
afterwards half oz. of Epsom salts. He is now consider- 
ably relieved ; and I think by the morning he will be 
well. Indigestion was the cause of his suffering. I 
made him some of the arrowroot, which thanks to your 
usual foresight I found stowed away in my trunk. I 
shall reserve it for similar occasions. 

Col. Fremont has not yet arrived. 

Our quarter master has suddenly discovered that his 
commissariat is empty, and talks of sending to Fort 
Riley for fresh supplies to-morrow ; if he does I will for- 
ward a package of letters to you, which please preserve 
from public eye. 

Two Delawares and a muleteer are now preparing to 
go to " Fort Riley " for supplies. Capt. Wolff is better; 
by evening I hope he will be perfectly well. I think 
if I had not treated him he would have probably died. 
Another "incantation" would certainly have killed him. 
I shall continue to write to you. Most probably we 
shall be detained here a week longer ; it is now the 20th 
October, and I am afraid Col. Fremont is seriously ill ; 
you will, of course, have heard of his return, and I shall 
look forward to receive by him happy tidings from all 
those I love. 



48 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 
PROFESSOR ESPY'S THEORY OF RATN. 

I have had occasion to observe that the immense 
clouds of smoke which filled the atmosphere continually 
during the time the prairies were on fire, were con- 
densed during the cold of the night, sometimes form- 
ing rain, but always heavy dew, which I did not observe 
before the prairies were burning. 

I think Prof. Espy says that artificial rain, can 
be produced by smoke from large fires, and from the 
observations I have made I coincide in that theory. 

It is not unlikely that the Indians, who have from the 
earliest knowledge of the prairie country annually set the 
high rank grass on fire, did it to afford artificial mois- 
ture for the immense tracts of buffalo grass plains, on 
which subsist hundreds of thousands of buffalo, elk, and 
deer. No rain falls at certain seasons, and without dew 
the grass would be all burnt up by the scorching heat 
of the sun. 

The Indians, I believe, practically put into operation 
the theory of Espy — knowing from experience that 
smoke is condensed into dew. 

On the Kansas River the dew fell very heavily. I 
found it necessary while doing guard to cover myself 
with my India-rubber poncho, to prevent my clothes 
from becoming saturated with water. 

******* 

Last night our camp was visited with a heavy storm 
of rain and sleet ; it was bitter cold. It rained con- 
siderably yesterday, but the temperature was not lower 
than 65°. The wind increased during the night, and 
one sudden gust blew our cotton tent completely over, 
exposing us to the peltings of the merciless storm of 



A PLEASANT TIME. 49 

sleet. Several of us essayed to raise the tent, but the 
ground had become saturated with moisture, and afforded 
no hold for our tent-pins, and we consequently lay clown, 
wrapped ourselves in our India-rubber blankets, and 
bewailed our fate. 

We presented an interesting picture when the day- 
light came. Many of our clothes, which were lying 
loosely in the tent, were blown some distance from camp, 
and we were all drenched to the skin. The weather 
cleared off at sunrise, and around a large camp-fire we 
dried our clothes and passed jokes on each other's dis- 
tressing appearance. Winter seems to have suddenly 
set in ; the thermometer indicated, at sunrise, 34° ( u j>or 
peccados" as the Spaniards say.) Many of our animals 
pulled up their picket-pins, and sought shelter in the 
woods. My pony is missing, among others, and on 
myself and on no one else devolves the delightful duty 
of finding him. I have put on, for the first time, my 
waterproof boots, as I have a wet road, and, probably, a 
long distance to walk, before I find my horse. He is 
safe enough on the creek ; the Indians saw him while 
hunting up theirs. 



50 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER YIII. 



Author's First Buffalo Hunt— Pursuit— Perilous Situation— Mode of Attack by the 
Indians— Solitary and Alone— Pony killed for Food— An 111 Wind that blows Nobody 
any Good— Incredulity of Indian Hunters— Return to Camp— Prairies on Fire — 
Suffocating Smoke— Mr. Egloffstein on a Wolf Hunt— Fire Light and Moonlight- 
Camp surrounded by Fire— Dangerous Situation— Arrival of Colonel Fremont- 
Preparations to resume our Journey— Escape through the Blazing Element. 



MY FIRST BUFFALO HUNT. 

At daylight, on the 25th October, the hunters were 
at breakfast. At our mess, feats of daring and gallant 
horsemanship were being related, while our roast was 
preparing. Weluchas, a most successful hunter, and as 
brave and daring an Indian as ever fashioned a moc- 
casin or fired a rifle, approached me, remarking, " What 
for you no hunt buffalo — got buffalo pungo ? " (horse.) 
I had, while at breakfast, almost made up my mind to 
go — this, however, determined me. In quick time I 
had my horse saddled, and, fully equipped with rifle, 
navy revolver, and sheath knife, was all ready for a start. 
On this occasion our party consisted of eight Delawares 
and four white men, besides myself. I rode out of 
camp, side by side with Weluchas, who seemed gratified 
that I accompanied him. The buffaloes, from having 
been daily hunted for several weeks, had gone South 
about fifteen to twenty miles, and we had to ride that 
distance before we saw any game. 



A BUFFALO HUNT. 51 



DISCOVERY OF A HERD. 



After about three hours' gentle trotting, one of the 
party started a cayote, and we chased him until he dis- 
appeared in the brush. "When we reached the brow of 
a hill, Weluchas ejaculated, in deep, low tones, " Buf- 
falo," "big herd" — "plenty cow." I turned my eyes, 
and, for the first time, beheld a large herd of buffaloes 
occupying an extensive valley, well wooded and watered, 
and luxuriant with the peculiar short curled grass, called 
" Buffalo grass " {Lysteria Dyclotoides), on which this 
animal principally feeds. I gazed witli delight and 
astonishment at the novel sight which presented itself. 
There must have been at least 6,000 buffaloes, including 
cows and calves. It was a si^ht well worth travelling 
a thousand miles to see. Some were grazing, others 
playfully gambolling, while the largest number were 
quietly reclining or sleeping on their verdant carpet, 
little dreaming of the danger which surrounded them, 
or of the murderous visitors who were about to disturb 
their sweet repose. 



THE FOE DISCOVERED BY THE SENTINEL THE HERD EST 

MOTION. 

Taking the word of command from Capt. "Wolff, one 
of the finest proportioned men I ever beheld, we kept 
silent, to await the direction which the herd would take 
when they discovered us. An old bull was stationed 
several hundred yards in advance of the herd, as senti- 
nel : they invariably follow him, as leader, even into 
danger. He soon espied us ; and suddenly, as if by 



52 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

magic, the whole herd was in motion. We occupied 
such a position that they passed within rifle shot. 

THE PURSUIT. 

At a signal, the whole party, except myself, galloped 
after them. I was intensely absorbed by this mighty 
cavalcade passing with majestic stride, as it were, in 
review before me. My pony, anxious for the chase, 
fretted and champed at the bit. I singled out "what I 
thought a fat cow (the bulls are tough and hard, and 
are only hunted by the Indians for their robes — their 
flesh never being eaten when cows can be obtained), 
and in a few seconds, I was riding at full speed. It 
requires a very fleet horse to overtake a buffalo cow. 
A bull does not run quite so fast. After a chase of 
about two miles, I was near enough to take sight with 
my rifle, by stopping my pony. I fired and wounded 
him in the leg — reloaded, and started again at full speed, 
the buffalo running less swiftly. I fired again, but this 
time without effect. Not wishing him to get too far 
ahead of me, I took out my revolver, and got within 
pistol shot, when I discovered I had chased an old bull 
instead of a cow. 



PERILOUS SITUATION. 

I fired my pistol four times at full speed, and was 
endeavoring to sight him again, when the bull suddenly 
turned upon me, within five yards of my horse. My 
well-trained pony instantly jumped aside. The bull, 
in turning, got his wounded leg in a painful position, 
and stopped, which gave me time and opportunity to 



INDIAN MODE OF SHOOTING BUFFALOES. 53 

save my life ; for, with my total inexperience, I should 
not have been able to have mastered him. My horse 
jumped aside without any guiding from me, having 
been trained to this by the Indian from whom we pur- 
chased him. I reloaded my rifle, and took deliberate 
aim at a vital part. When dying, I approached the 
monster that had given me such a fright, when he 
turned his large black eyes mournfully upon me, as if 
upbraiding me with having wantonly and uselessly shot 
him down. 

MODE OF ATTACK BY THE DELAWAKES. 

A Delaware Indian, in hunting buffaloes, when near 
enough to shoot, rests his rifle on his saddle, balances 
himself in his stirrup on one leg ; the other is thrown 
over the rifle to steady it. He then leans on one side, 
until his eye is on a level with the object, takes a quick 
sight, and fires while riding at full speed, rarely missing 
his mark, and seldom chasing one animal further than 
a mile. 

SOLITARY AND ALONE. 

After recovering from my fright, and the intense 
excitement incidental to the chase, other sensations of a 
different character, although not less disagreeable, imme- 
diately filled my mind. I discovered that I was entirely 
alone, in an uninhabited, wild country, with not a 
human being in sight. I had chased my bull at least 
five miles. My companions had taken a different direc- 
tion, nor was a single buffalo to be seen. My mind was 
fully alive to the perils of my situation. I had left my 
pocket compass in camp, and I did not know in what 



54 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

direction to look for it. I mounted my horse and 
walked to the top of a hill to see if I could find any 
traces of the party. I discovered looming in the dis- 
tance, Smoky Hills some twenty miles off. My mind 
was in a slight degree relieved, although I was almost 
as ignorant of my geographical position as I was before. 
I did not despair, but unsaddling my horse, I gave him 
an hour's rest ; the grass was fresh, and he appeared 
totally unconcerned at my situation. 

PONY KILLED FOR MEAT. 

Poor fellow! Little did I think that day, as he car- 
ried me, so full of life and high spirit, that in a few weeks 
he would be reduced to a mere skeleton, and that I 
should be obliged, in order to save my own life on the 
mountains of snow, to partake of his flesh. I shed tears 
when they shot him down, and I never think of his 
generous, willing qualities, but I lament the stern neces- 
sity that left his bones bleaching on the mountains. 



IT S AN ELL WIND THAT BLOWS NOBODY GOOD. 

I re-saddled my pony, and turned his head in the 
direction of Smoky Hills, fervently hoping to fall in 
with some of our party ; nor was I disappointed, for 
after riding about an hour, I discovered to the left of my 
course a horse without a rider. As I approached it, I 
recognized the animal, and in a little while I saw its 
owner, my friend Weluchas, walking slowly, with his 
eyes intently fixed on the ground. He told me he was 
looking for his tomahawk pipe, which he had dropped 
while hunting. I joyfully assisted him in finding it, 



author's skill in hunting doubted. 55 

after a persevering search of an hour. He had been at 
least an hour on the spot before I came up. To this 
lucky circumstance I attributed my arrival in camp that 
night, for when we resumed our journey, he took a 
course some six points variation from the one I was tra- 
velling. On our way we fell in with Capt. Wolff and 
another Delaware, who were busily engaged cutting up 
a fine fat cow. I was soon at work, but I gave up after 
an ineffectual attempt to cut the liver, which is very 
delicate eating, my knowledge of human anatomy not 
being of any service to me in dissecting buffaloes. 

THE incredulity of the Indian hunters. 

While journeying campwards I related to the party 
my adventure with the old bull. I, of course, finished it 
by stating I had slain him. Capt. Wolff looked at me 
with a most quizzical and incredulous smile, and empha- 
tically remarked, in his broken English, " Carvalho no 
kill buffalo." I insisted that I had left him dead on the 
field. At this the whole party laughed at me. I felt 
annoyed, but soon found it was no use to contend with 
them. Weluchas, who was really my friend, and to 
whom I had rendered several services, such as bleeding 
him and curing him of fever, could not believe the 
statement I had made. Capt. Wolff, seeing me look 
offended, said, in these exact words: — " When Capt, Wolff 
kill buffalo, he cut out the tongue. Indian shoot buffalo, 
bring home tongue. Carvalho no bring buffalo tongue ; 
he no kill buffalo." This was powerful argument, and 
the inference perfectly logical ; and I soon changed the 
subject. Gentle reader, do you think I was equal to 
cutting out, by the roots, a tongue from the head of 



56 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

an old buffalo bull, after telling you that I did not suc- 
ceed in getting out the liver of a young cow, after the 
animal was opened ? Surely I was not ; but even if I 
had been, the alarming situation I found myself in, at 
the time he fell, prevented me from attempting it, if I 
even had known it was the hunters' rule to do so. 



RETURN TO CAMP. 



My messmates, to whom I related my adventure, had 
not the slightest idea that I had lost my way in the chase. 
I came into camp with the rest of the party, that night, 
about seven o'clock, tired and hungry. After eating a 
hearty supper, I wrapped myself up in my blankets and 
was soon asleep, dreaming of the disputed honors I had 
gathered in my maiden hunt after a buffalo bull. 



PRAIRIE ON FIRE. 

Oct. 30. — During the day, the sun was completely 
obscured by low, dark clouds ; a most disagreeable and 
suffocating smoke filled the atmosphere. 

We were still encamped on the Saline fork of the Kan- 
sas River, impatiently awaiting the arrival of Col. Fre- 
mont, who had not yet returned from St. Louis. His 
continued absence alarmed us for his safety, and the cir- 
cumstance that the prairies were on fire for several days 
past, in the direction through which he had to pass to 
reach us, added to our anxiety. 

Night came on, and the dark clouds which overhung 
us like an immense pall, now assumed a horrible, lurid 
glare, all along the horizon. As far as the eye could 



ENGINEER ON A WOLF HUNT. 57 

reach, a belt of fire was visible. We were on the prairie, 
between Kansas Kiver on one side, Solomon's Fork on 
another, Salt Creek on the third, and a large belt of 
woods about four miles from camp on the fourth. We 
were thus completely hemmed in, and comparatively 
secure from danger. 

Our animals had been grazing near this belt of woods, 
the day before, and when they were driven into camp 
at night, one of the mules was missing. At daylight a 
number of our Delawares, Mr. Egloffstein, our topo- 
graphical engineer, and myself, sallied out in search 

of it. 

After looking through the woods for an hour, we dis- 
covered our mule lying dead, with his lariat drawn 
close around his neck. It had become loose, and, trail- 
ing along the ground, got entangled with the branches 
of an old tree, where in his endeavors to extricate him- 
self he was strangled. 

We were attracted to the spot by the howling of 
wolves, and we found that he had been partially 
devoured by them. Our engineer, who wanted a wolf- 
skin for a saddle-cloth, determined to remain to kill one 
of them. 

I assisted him to ascend a high tree immediately over 
the body of the mule, untied the lariat, and attaching 
his rifle to one end of it, pulled it up to him. 

The rest of the party returned to camp. About four 
o'clock in the afternoon, he being still out, I roasted 
some buffalo meat and went to seek him. I found him 
still on the tree, cmietly awaiting an opportunity to kill 
his wolf. 

A heroic example of perseverance on an eminence 
smiling at disappointment. 

3* 



58 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Mr. Egloffs'tein declined to come down ; I told him of 
the dangers to which he was exposed, and entreated him 
to return to camp. Finding him determined to remain, 
I sent him up his supper, and returned to camp, expect- 
ing him to return at sundown. 

About this time the prairie was on fire just beyond the 
belt of woods through which Col. Fremont had to pass. 

Becoming alarmed for Mr. Eglolistein, several of us 
went to bring him in. We found him half-way to camp, 
dragging by the lariat the dead body of an immense 
wolf which he had shot. "We assisted him on with his 
booty as well as we could. 

My " guard " came on at two o'clock. I laid down 
to take a three hours' rest. When I went on " duty," 
the scene that presented itself was sublime. A breeze 
had sprung up, which dissipated the smoke to wind- 
ward. The full moon was shining brightly, and the 
piles of clouds which surrounded her, presented magni- 
ficent studies of " light and shadow," which " Claude 
Lorraine " so loved to paint. 

The fire had reached the belt of woods, and seemingly 
had burnt over the tree our friend had been seated in 
all day. 

The fire on the north side had burned up to the 
water's edge, and had there stopped. 

The whole horizon now seemed bounded by fire. 

Our Delawares by this time had picketed all the 
animals near the creek we were encamped on, and had 
safely carried the baggage of the camp down the banks 
near the water. When day dawned, the magnificent 
woods which had sheltered our animals, appeared a 
forest of black scathed trunks. 

The fire gradually increased, yet we dared not change 



col. fremont's ajrrivai,. 59 

our ground ; first, because we saw no point where there 
was not more danger, and, secondly, if we moved away, 
" Solomon," the Indian chief, who after conducting us 
to the camp ground we now occupied, had returned to 
guide Col. Fremont, would not know exactly where to 
find us again. 

We thus continued gazing appalled at the devouring 
element which threatened to overwhelm us. 

After breakfast, one of our Delawares gave a loud 
whoop, and pointing to the open space beyond, in the 
direction of Solomon's Fork, where to our great joy, we 
saw Col. Fremont on horseback, followed by " an 
immense man," on " an immense mule," (who after- 
wards proved to be our good and kind-hearted Doctor 
Ober ;) Col. Fremont's " cook," and the Indian " Solo- 
mon," galloping through the blazing element in the 
direction of our camp. 

Instantly and impulsively, we all discharged our 
rifles in a volley. 

Our tents were not struck, yet we wanted to make a 
signal for their guidance. We all reloaded, and w r hen 
they were very near, we fired a a salute. 

Our men and Indians immediately surrounded Col. 
Fremont making kind inquiries after his health. 

]STo father who had been absent from his children, 
could have been received with more enthusiasm and 
more real joy. 

To reach us he had to travel over many miles of 
country which had been on fire. The Indian trail 
which led to our camp from " Solomon's Fork," had 
become obliterated, rendering it difficult and arduous 
to follow ; but the keen sense of the Indian directed 



60 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

hini under all difficulties directly to the spot where he 
had left us. 

During the balance of the day, the camp was put in 
travelling order. 

With the arrival of Col. Fremont, our commissariat 
had received considerable additions of provisions, 
more, in fact, than he had any good reason to suppose 
we had consumed during his absence. 

The reverse was exactly the truth. The provisions 
intended for our journey had been lavishly expended, 
and surreptitiously purloined. 

Twice it became necessary to send to Fort Riley to 
procure supplies. 

The season had advanced, and it became imperatively 
necessary to continue onwards — we should have plenty 
of game until we got to Bent's Fort, where there always 
were kept large supplies of provisions, and where Col. 
Fremont intended to refit and replenish. 

At midnight, the fire crossed the Kansas River. I was 
in a great state of excitement. I mounted my horse 
and rode out in the direction ot the Kansas, to see if the 
fire had actually crossed; I suppose I must have 
advanced within half a mile, before I discovered that 
the prairie was on fire on this side of it. I turned round, 
and galloped as I thought, in the direction of camp, 
but I could not descry it. I continued onwards ; but 
as there were woods all around Salt Creek, I had lost 
my landmarks, and was in a terrible quandary. I how- 
ever reached Salt Creek, and with great difficulty 
returned to camp, after an absence of three hours. 

At daylight, our animals were all packed, the camp 
raised, and all the men in their saddles. Our only 
escape was through the blazing grass ; we dashed into 



ESCAPE THROUGH BURNING PRAIRIES. 61 

it, Col. Fremont at the head, his officers following, while 
the rest of the party were driving up the baggage ani- 
mals. The distance we rode through the fire, could not 
have been more than one hundred feet, the grass which 
quickly ignites, as quickly consumes, leaving only 
black ashes in the rear. 

We passed through the fiery ordeal unscathed ; made 
that day over fifteen miles, and camped for the night on 
the dry bed of a creek, beyond the reach of the devour- 
ing element. 



62 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Walnut Creek — Necessity of strict discipline— Neglect of duty— Horses stolen— Chey- 
enne Indians — Thieves overtaken — Watchfulness of Col. Fremont — Immense herd3 
of Buffalo— Buffalo hunt on a large scale— Buffalo chips — Prairie dogs, Owls, &c. — 
Indians in camp — Raw Antelope liver. 

The cold was intense during our last encampment at 
Walnut Creek. About an hour after the midnight 
watch had been relieved, and while the last watch were 
warming their benumbed limbs before a large fire, one 
of the men on horse guard left his duty, and came into 
camp to warm himself — Col. Fremont, who was always 
on the " qui vive," suddenly appeared at the camp-fire. 
This was not unusual, that he should personally inspect 
the guard, but he took such times, when he was least 
expected — in order to see if the men did their duty 
properly. 
The Colonel accosted the officer of the watch, and 

enquired if Mr. had been relieved ? He replied 

that he had not, but gave as an excuse, the coldness 
of the weather. Col. Fremont lectured the officer, and 
had another man immediately sent out to take his place. 
He was highly displeased, and as a punishment, told 

Mr. ■ that he expected he " would walk," during the 

next day's travel. I had been relieved a short time 
before, and I knew how cold I was, and that it was 
necessary to move about continually, to keep up the 



NECESSITY FOR STRICT DISCIPLINE. 63 

circulation of the blood ; under the circumstances, I 
thought the punishment disproportionate to the offence. 

I was a novice in camp life among Indians, and was 
not aware of the stern necessity required for a strict 
guardianship of the animals ; but the sequel proved, 
that the " slight dereliction " from duty, as I thought it, 
involved the most serious consequences. 

At day-light, when the animals were driven in to be 
loaded and packed for the day's journey, five of them 
were missing. The camp was, in consequence, delayed, 
while the animals were sought ; half the day was lost in 
an ineffectual search. Our Delawares reported having 
discovered moccasin prints on the snow, and at once 
decided they were made by Cheyenne Indians, from 
their peculiar form. 

The next day we followed a track made by " shod 
horses," which convinced us we were on the right scent. 
The Indians do not shoe their horses. 

On the " divide," near the Arkansas Eiver, we saw 
one of our mules grazing, but so worn out by the hard 
drive, that he was unable to continue, and the Indians 
left him on the prairie. 

It took us several days to reach the village, which was 
situated on the part of the Arkansas River known as 
Big Timber, near Mr. Bent's house. 

At this village we found the rest of the animals, and 
some of the thieves. On examining them, they con- 
fessed that they had watched our camp during the 
night, for an opportunity to run off our animals, but 
found them guarded, until one man left his watch, and 
went to warm himself at the camp fire, during which 
time they stole five of them, and if they had had an 
hour longer time, they would have stolen a great many 



64 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

more. They went so far as to point out the very man 
who went to the fire. 

Mr. submitted to the walk with as good a grace 

as possible. "We had a long journey that day, but he 
manfully accomplished it ; and I heard him say, after- 
wards, that he richly deserved it. 

Imagine twenty odd men, 600 miles from the fron- 
tiers, at the commencement of a severe winter, deprived 
of their animals, on an open prairie, surrounded by 
Camanches, Pawnees and other tribes of hostile Indians. 
I am fully convinced that but for the "watchfulness" 
of Col. Fremont, we should have been placed in this 
awkward predicament. 

IMMENSE HERDS OF BUFFALO. 

On the divide, between Walnut Creek and the Ar- 
kansas River, Ave travelled through immense herds of 
buffalo ; at one time there could not have been fewer 
than two hundred thousand in sight. 

All around us, as far as the eye could reach, the 
prairie was completely black with them ; they at times 
impeded our progress. We stopped for more than an 
hour to allow a single herd to gallop, at full speed, 
across our path, while the whole party amused them- 
selves with singling out particular ones, and killing 
them. 

I essayed, at different times, to daguerreotype them 
while in motion, but was not successful, although I 
made several pictures of distant herds. 

On this " divide " I saw numbers of prairie dogs, 
they ran to their holes on our approach ; a small sized 
owl, most generally stood as sentinel near the hole. 



BUFFALO CHIPS. 65 

Our Delawares told me that the prairie dog, the owl, and 
the rattlesnake always congregate together — a strange 
trio. 

The prairie after you pass Pawnee Fork, and also on 
the divide between Walnut Creek and the Arkansas 
River, is covered with a short grass, called buffalo grass. 

Firewood or timber, only grows on the creek, and the 
artemisia entirely disappears. 

We camped one night on the open prairie, without 
wood, near Pawnee Fork, a tributary of the Kansas. 
The thermometer was below freezing point, and there 
was no vestige of wood or timber to be seen. 

I was busily engaged making my daguerreotype views 
of the country, over which I had to travel the next day. 
On looking through my camera I observed two of our 
men approaching over a slope, holding between them a 
blanket filled with something ; curious to know what it 
was, I hailed them, and found they had been gathering 
" dried buffalo chips," to build a fire with. This mate- 
rial burns like peat, and makes a very hot fire, without 
much smoke, and keeps the heat a long time ; a pecu- 
liar smell exhales from it while burning, not at all 
unpleasant. But for this material, it would be impossi- 
ble to travel over certain parts of this immense country. 
It served us very often, not only for cooking purposes 
but also to warm our half frozen limbs. I have seen 
chips of a large size — one I had the curiosity to mea- 
sure, was two feet in diameter. 

Our first camp on the Arkansas Was visited by a num- 
ber of Indian hunters, with the product of their skill, 
in the use of their bows and arrows, hanging across their 
horses. One of them borrowed my jack-knife, and cut- 
ting a piece of the raw antelope liver, deliberately ate 



66 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

it. I remember the peculiar feeling this exhibition 
excited in my bosom. I considered the Indian little 
better than a cannibal, and taking back my knife, 
turned from him in disgust. 

I got bravely over it, however, in the course of my 
journey, as a perusal of these pages will show. 



THE AUTHOR A MAGICIAN. 67 



CHAPTER X. 

Cheyenne Indian Tillage — " Big Timber" — Daguerreotypes — Indian Papoose — Author 
is Suddenly Changed into a Magician — Silver and Brass Bracelets — Portrait of Indian 
Princess—" Presto, pass /" — Moccasins — Cheyennes and Pawnees at War— Grand 
Scalp-dance — Col. Fremont a Spectator — Dinner with the Chief — Rosewood Carved 
Furniture not in Use — Duties of Indian Women — Employment of the Men. 

The Cheyenne village, on Big Timber, consists of about 
two hundred and fifty lodges, containing, probably, one 
thousand persons, including men, women and children. 

I went into the village to take daguerreotype views 
of their lodges, and succeeded in obtaining likenesses 
^ of an Indian princess — a very aged woman, with a 
papoose, in a cradle or basket, and several of the 
chiefs. I had great difficulty in getting them to sit 
still, or even to submit to have themselves daguerreo- 
typed. I made a picture, first, of their lodges, which yY 
I showed them. I then made one of the old woman 
and papoose. When they saw it, they thought I was a 
" supernatural being ;" and, before I left camp, they 
were satisfied I was more than human. 

The squaws are very fond of ornaments ; their arms 
are encircled with bracelets made of thick brass wire — 
sometimes of silver beaten out as thin as pasteboard. 
The princess, or daughter of the Great Chief, was a 
beautiful Indian girl. She attired herself in her most 
costly robes, ornamented with elk teeth, beads, and 
colored porcupine quills — expressly to have her likeness 
taken. I made a beautiful picture of her. 



68 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

The bracelets of the princess were of brass ; silver 
ones are considered invaluable, and but few possess them. 

After I had made the likeness of the princess, I made 
signs to her to let me have one of her brass bracelets. 
She very reluctantly gave me one. I wiped it very 
clean, and touched it with " quicksilver." It instantly 
became bright and glittering as polished silver. I then 
presented her with it. Her delight and astonishment 
knew no bounds. She slipped it over her arm, and 
danced about in ecstacy. As for me, she thought I was 
a great " Magician." 

My extraordinary powers of converting " brass into 
silver" soon became known in the village, and in an 
hour's time I was surrounded with squaws entreating 
me to make "presto, pass /" with their " armlets and 
brass finger-rings." 

Some offered me moccasins, others venison, as pay- 
ment ; but 1 had to refuse nearly all of them, as 1 had 
only a small quantity of quicksilver for my daguerreo- 
type operations. 

My " Inciter matches," also, excited their astonish- 
ment ; they had never seen them before ; and my fire 
water, "' alcohol," which I used, also, to heat my mer- 
cury — capped the climax. 

They wanted me to live with them, and I believe if I 
had remained, they would have worshipped me as 
possessing most extraordinary powers of necromancy. 

I returned to camp with a series of pictures, and 
about a dozen pairs of moccasins, some elaborately 
worked with beads ; all of which I stowed away in my 
boxes, and had the great gratification of supplying my 
companions with a pair, when they were most required, 
and when they least expected them. 



GKAND SCALP DANCE. 69 

The Pawnees and Cheyennes were at deadly war, at 
this time. During our visit to the Cheyenne camp, 
a number of warriors returned from a successful battle 
with the Pawnees, and brought in some twelve or fifteen 
scalps as trophies of their prowess. On the night of 
their arrival, they had a grand scalp-dance ; all the men 
and most of the women were grotesquely attired in wolf, 
bear, and buffalo skins ; some of them with the horns of 
the buffalo, and antlers of the deer, for head ornaments. 
Their faces were painted black and red ; each of the 
chiefs, who had taken a scalp, held it aloft attached to a 
long pole. An immense fire was burning, around which 
they danced and walked in procession, while some of the 
women were beating drums, and making night hideous 
with their horrible bowlings and discordant chantings. 
This was so novel and extraordinary a scene, that I 
rode into our camp, about three miles off, and induced 
Col. Fremont to accompany me to witness it. Mr. 
Egloffstien, succeeded in writing down the notes of their 
song ; they have no idea of music ; they all sing on the 
same key. I did not notice a single second or bass voice 
amongst them. We returned to camp about 12 o'clock, 
and left them still participating in the celebration of their 
bloody victory. I accepted an invitation to dine with the 
chief; his lodge is larger, but in no other respects differ- 
ent from those of the others. We dined in it, on buffa- 
lo steaks and venison ; a fire was burning in the centre ; 
around the fire, were beds made of cedar branches, covered 
with buffalo robes, on which his two wives and three chil- 
dren slept. They use no furniture of any kind ; there 
are hiding places under their beds, in which they place 
their extra moccasins and superfluous deer-skin shirts. 

The women make the bows and arrows, and all their 



70 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

moccasins, dress and prepare their skins and buffalo 
robes, take down and put up their lodges when they 
move their villages, which is three or four times a year, 
and all the servile and hard work of the canrp. The 
men hunt, fish, and go to war. 

The Cheyennes possess a large number of fine horses, 
some of which they raise, while the most of them are 
stolen and taken as prizes in their forays with other 
tribes of Indians. 



bent's trading post. 71 



CHAPTER XL 

Bent's Trading Post — Purchase Fresh Animals — Buffalo Robes — Immense Lodge — Fre- 
mont's Lodge — Doctor Ober — His Scientific Knowledge— Attachment of the Author 
to him — His Preparation to return to the States — Arkansas River — Giant Cotton 
Woods — Islands in the Arkansas — Bent's Fort destroyed by Indians— Preparations 
to cross the Mountains— First View of the Rocky Mountains — Bid adieu to Doctor 
Ober. 

Bent's House is built of adobes, or unburnt brick, one 
story bigh, in form of a hollow square, with a court- 
yard in the centre. One side is appropriated as his 
sleeping apartments, the front as a store-house, while 
the others are occupied by the different persons in his 
employ. He has a large number of horses and 
mules. 

Col. Fremont procured from him fresh animals for all 
the men, leaving behind us those which were thought 
unable to go through. At this time Mr. Bent had but 
a small quantity of sugar and coffee ; he supplied us, 
however, with all he could spare, and a considerable 
quantity of dried buffalo meat, moccasins and over- 
shoes for all the men ; a large buffalo-skin lodge, capa- 
ble of covering twenty-five men, and one small one for 
Col. Fremont ; buffalo robes for each man besides stock- 
ings, gloves, tobacco, etc. 

I breakfasted with Mr. Bent and Doctor Ober, on 
baked bread, made from maize ground, dried but* 



72 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

falo meat, venison steaks, and hot coffee ; a treat that I 
had not enjoyed for a very long time. 

Col. Fremont having entirely recovered his health, 
decided not to take the doctor over the mountains, but 
made arrangements with Mr. Bent to send him home 
by the first train of wagons ; one of our white men, a 
Mr. Mulligan, of St. Louis, also remained, as an assistant 
to the doctor. I had formed quite an attachment to 
Doctor Ober ; he was a gentleman of extensive informa- 
tion, and his intellectual capacity was of the highest 
order. I have ridden by his side for many a mile, 
listening to his explanations of the sciences of geology 
and botany. When we passed a remarkable formation, 
he would stop and compare it with others of similar 
character in different parts of the world. I regretted 
very much the necessity there was for his remaining 
behind, but it was well for him that he did so ; his age 
and make would have incapacitated him from enduring 
the privations and hardships which we had to en- 
counter. 

The weather continuing so cold I found it inconve- 
nient to use my oil colors and brushes ; accordingly I left 
my tin case with the doctor, who promised to take charge 
of them for me to the States. 

When the weather is very clear, you can see the 
snowy peaks of the Rocky Mountains from Bent's house, 
which is seventy miles distant. Our friend the doctor 
wanted to obtain a nearer view of them, and proposed 
that I should accompany him. We started on a clear 
morning, for that purpose. I took my apparatus along ; 
we rode thirty miles, but the weather becoming hazy, 
it entirely shut out our view of the mountains. We 
returned to camp late at night, after a tiresome day's ride. 



EXPEDITION JREFITTEL.. 73 

The Arkansas River where we first struck it, which was 
at the crossing of the Santa Fe trail, is almost entirely 
hare of timber; the trunks of several giant Cottonwood 
trees, which had probably been landmarks for early tra- 
vellers to Mexico, still reared their enormous heads high 
into the Heavens, defying alike the storms of winter, 
and the axe and fire of the liungry pioneer, who in vain 
attempted to hew and burn them down. I measured 
one of them, its circumference was eighteen feet. We 
travelled up the river a great many miles, without see- 
ing any timber at all, and relying for firewood on the 
drift logs, we found along the banks. 

There are a great many islands in the Arkansas River, 
on which some few young cottonwoods are growing. 
We frequently encamped on these islands. 

At "Big Timber," there is a considerable quantity 
of oak, and cotton wood of large growth. Game of all 
kinds abounds in it. 

Bent's house is a trading post. Indians of the different 
tribes bring in their venison, buffalo meat, skins, and 
robes, which are exchanged for various descriptions of 
manufactured goods. Mr. Bent also receives the annual 
appropriation from Government, for the neighboring- 
tribes of Indians which are distributed at this point. 
Bent's Fort, which is situated about thirty miles further 
up the Arkansas, was recently destroyed by the Indians, 
and has not been rebuilt, from the scarcity of timber 
in its vicinity. All the material saved from the fort, 
was removed to Mr. Bent's house, on Big Timber. 
After a sojourn of a week, near Bent's trading house, 
the whole of which time was employed in refitting and 
preparing proper camp equipage for the journey over 

4 



74 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES UN THE FAR WEST. 

the mountains, we bade an affectionate adieu to our 
worthy doctor ; and started in high spirits, the lofty 
summit of Pike's Peak in the distance glittering in 
the mornino; sun. 



VALLEY OF THE UUEKFANO. 75 



CHAPTER XII. 

Journey up the Arkansas — Bent's Fort — Huerfano River and Valley — Description of the 
Country— Huerfano Butte — Behind Camp — Daguerreotypes — Scientific Observations — 
Approach of Night — Trail Lost, and Encampment in the Woods — Buffalo Robe3 and 
Blankets — Col. Fremont sends to find us— Bear Hunt — Roubidoux Pass — Emotion of 
Col. Fremont when Looking upon the Scene of his Terrible Disaster on a Former Expe- 
dition — Found a Half Starved Mexican — Col. Fremont's Humanity — His Skill in Pistol 
Shooting. 

We travelled up the Arkansas, and passing the ruins, 
of Bent's Fort on the opposite side of the river, struck 
the mouth of the Huerfano ; we followed that river to 
the Huerfano Valley — which is by far the most romantic 
and beautiful country I ever beheld. Nature seems to 
have, with a bountiful hand, lavished on this delightful 
valley all the ingredients necessary for the habitation 
of man ; but in vain the eye seeks through the magnifi- 
cent vales, over the sloping hills, and undulating plains, 
for a single vestige to prove that even the foot of an 
Indian has ever preceded us. Herds of antelope and 
deer roam undisturbed through the primeval forests, 
and sustain themselves on the various cereals which 
grow luxuriantly in the valley. 

But where are the people ? 

Were there ever any inhabitants in this extraordina- 
rily fertile country ? 

Will the progress of civilization ever extend so far in 
the interior? 

At present, not even the smoke from an Indian wig- 






76 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

warn taints the pure air which plays around, and 
imparts healthful vigor to my frame. 
(After crossing the Huerfano Kiver, we saw the 
immense pile of granite rock, which rises perpendicu- 
larly to the height of four or five hundred feet, from a 
perfectly level valley. It appeared like a mammoth 
sugar loaf, (called the Huerfano Butte).* Col. Fremont 
expressed a desire to have several views of it from 
different distances^ 

The main party proceeded on the journey, leaving 
under my charge the mules which carried our apparatus, 
and also the blankets and buffalo robes of the whole 
camp ; it being necessary in equalizing the weight, to 
distribute the different boxes on three or four animals. 
Mr. Egloffstein, Mr. Fuller, and two Delawares, re- 
mained, with me. 

To make a daguerreotype view, generally occupied 
from one to two hours, the principal part of that time, 
however, was spent in packing, and reloading the ani- 
mals. When we came up to the Butte, Mr. Fuller 
made barometrical observations at its base, and also 
ascended to the top to make observations, in order to 
ascertain its exact height. The calculations have not 
yet been worked out. 

If a railroad is ever built through this valley, I 
suggest that an equestrian statue of Col. J. C. Fremont, 
be placed on the summit of the Huerfano Butte ; his 
right hand pointing to California, the land he con- 
quered. 

When we had completed our work, we found that we 
were four hours behind camp, equal to twelve miles. 

* " The Orphan." 



INABILITY TO EEACH CAMP. 77 

We followed the trail of our party, through the immense 
fields of artemisia, until night overtook us, trav- 
elling until we could no longer distinguish the trail. 

Our arms were discharged as a signal to the camp ; 
they answered it by firing off their rifles, but the wind 
being then high, w r e could not determine their exact dis- 
tance or position. Then, taking counsel together, we 
determined to encamp for the night, on the side of a 
mountain covered with pines, near by. 

We soon had a large fire burning, for the weather was 
intensely cold and disagreeable. Upon unloading our 
animals we found that we had with us all the bajrs-ao-e 

Do o 

and buffalo robes of the camp, but nothing to eat or 
drink ; the night was so dark that although not more than 
half a mile from a creek, we preferred to suffer from 
thirst rather than incur fresh danger which might lurk 
about it. 

I had with me three tin boxes, containing preserved 
eggs and milk, but I preferred to go supperless to bed, 
rather than touch the small supply which I had, unknown 
to the rest, carefully hid away in my boxes, to be used 
on some more pressing occasion. 

Our absence was most keenly felt by the camp, for 
they had to remain up, around their fires all night, not 
having any thing to sleep on. 

We also watched all night, fearful that our animals 
should stray away, or that we should be attacked by 
Indians. 

At day dawn we reloaded our animals, found our lost * 
trail, and soon met some of our party whom Colonel 
Fremont had sent to look for us. 

When we got to camp, they were all ready for a start, 
and waiting for us. A delicious breakfast of buffalo and 



7 b TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

venison had been prepared, and we discussed its merits 
with an appetite sharpened by a twenty-four hours 
fast. 

At the very base of the Rocky Mountains, while we 
were approaching the Sand-hill Pass, fresh bear track 
were discovered by our Delawares, who determined to 
follow in search of the animal. Diverging a little 
from our line among the trees on the side of the moun- 
tain, our bruin was "first seen. "A bear hunt! a bear 
hunt!" was quickly re-echoed by the whole company. 
The baggage animals were left to themselves while 
Colonel "Fremont and the whole party darted off" at full 
speed to the chase. 

Two of our Delawares who first spied him, were half 
a mile in advance, for they gave the reins to their 
animals the instant they saw the bear. Llis bearship 
seeing strangers approaching at full speed, and being 
unused to their ways, thought it most prudent to make 
himself scarce ; he turned and slowly descended the hill 
in an opj)osite direction ; our loud huzzas finally alarmed 
him and off he went in full tilt, the whole party sur- 
rounding him ; the first shot from the Delaware brought 
him to his knees. Three shots killed him. 

He was an enormous black bear, and very fat ; 1 
partook of but small quantities of it, it being too luscious 
and greasy for my palate. The meat was brought into 
camp and served several days for food for the whole 
party. 

The next day I accompanied Col. Fremont into the 
Roubidoux Pass, from the summit of which I had the 
first view into the San Louis Valley, the head waters of 
the " Rio Grande del Norte." On the opposite side forty 
miles across are the " San Juan Mountains," the scene 



/// 



col. fkemont's benevolence. 79 

of Col. Fremont's terrible disaster on a former expedition. 
He pointed out to me the direction of the spot and with 
a voice tremulous with emotion, related some of the 
distressing incidents of that awful night. I made a 
daguerreotype of the pass with the San Louis Valley and 
mountains in the distance. 

While exploring in the pass we accidentally came 
upon a Mexican, almost naked, who had deserted or 
been left behind by some hunters. Col. Fremont, whose 
great heart beats in sympathy for the suffering of his 
fellow men, made him follow to camp, and although he 
knew that this man would be an incubus upon the party 
from his inability to walk, allowed him to accompany 
the expedition, and supplied him with a part of his own 
wardrobe. This man subsequently proved perfectly 
worthless. 

On our way down from the pass, Col. Fremont took 
out his revolver, and at a distance of about twenty 
paces killed a small, white, delicately formed animal, 
very like an ermine. This was an excellent shot with a 
sightless pistol. 



SO TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE EAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Sand-hill Pass— San Louis Valley— Natural Deer-park- Smoked Venison— Last sight 
of Game — Rio Grande del Norte — Sarawatch— Cochotope Pass — First Snow in Moun- 
tains— Gunnison's Wagon Trail— Summit of Pass— Waters commence to flow 
towards the Pacific — Encampment — Immense Rugged Mountain — Impracticability of 
ascent by Mules— The Author ascends on Foot— Col. Fremont accompanies him — 
Daguerreotype Panorama from its Summits— Col. Fremont's Consideration for his Men 
—Sublimity— First View of Grand River— Reflections— Return to Camp. 

"We entered the San Louis Valley through the Sand- 
hill Pass, and camped at the mouth. Travelling 
up the valley about twenty miles, we ascended one of 
the verdant and gentle slopes of the mountains, along 
which meandered a stream of living water, fringed 
on its banks with cottonwood and elms. We selected a 
camp-ground in an immense natural deer-park, and 
raised our tents under the shelter of wide-spreading 
cedars. 

Scarcely were we comfortably fixed, when a herd of 
black-tail deer came down the mountain to water within 
sight of our camp. Cautiously our Indian hunters sal- 
lied out, and ere many minutes, the sound of one, two, 
three — a dozen rifles were heard in quick succession. 
Every shot brought down a fine fat buck, and our sup- 
per that night, consisted of as fine roast venison as ever 
graced the table of an epicure. 

Col. Fremont determined to remain here for several 
days in order to Lave a quantity of the meat cured for 
our use in the mountains. I exercised mv skill in rifle 



CAPT. GUNNISON CUTS CROSSES ON TREES. 81 

shooting for the last time at this camp. Game of all 
kinds which had hitherto been plentiful, disappeared 
almost entirely after we left it. 

We travelled up the San Louis Valley, crossing the 
Kio Grande del Norte, and entered the Sarawatch 
Valley through a perfectly level pass. Our journey 
continued along the valley until we came to the Cocho- 
tope, where we camped. 

That night it snowed on us for the first time. The 
snow obliterated the wagon tracks of Capt. Gunnisous 
expedition, but Col. Fremont's unerring judgment con- 
ducted us in the precise direction by a general ascent 
through trackless, though sparsely timbered forests, until 
we approached the summit, on which grew an immense 
numbers of trees, still in leaf, with only about four 
inches of snow on the ground. 

As we approached this dense forest, we soon perceived 
that the axe of the white man had forced a passage 
through for a wagon-road. Many of the larger trees on 
both sides of the track were deeply cut with a cross, as 
an emblem of civilization, which satisfied us that Capt. 
Gunnison and Lieut. Beale had penetrated through to 
the other side. In this forest, we were surrounded 
by immense granite mountains, whose summits were 
covered probably with everlasting snow. The streams 
from them whieh had previously been running towards 
us, now took the opposite direction, supplying us with 
the gratifying proof that we had completed our travel 
to the summit, and were now descending the mountains 
towards the Pacific. After issuing from these woods 
we camped on the edge of a rivulet. 

At this camp Col. Fremont exhibited such unmis- 
takable marks of consideration for me, that it induced 



82 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

my unwavering perseverance in the exercise of my 
professional duties subsequently, when any other man 
would have hesitated, and probably given up, and 
shrunk dismayed from the encounter. 

Near by our camp, a rugged mountain, barren of trees, 
and thickly covered with snow, reared its lofty head 
high in the blue vault above us. The approach to it 
was inaccessible by even our surefooted mules. From 
its summit, the surrounding country could be seen for 
hundreds of miles. Col. Fremont regretted that such 
important views as might be made from that point, 
should be lost, and gave up the idea as impracticable 
from its dangerous character. I told him that if he 
would allow two men to assist me in carrying my appa- 
ratus up the mountain, I would attempt the ascent on 
foot, and make the pictures ; he pointed out the difficulties, 
I insisted. He then told me if I was determined to go 
he would accompany me ; this was an unusual thing for 
him and it proved to me, that he considered the ascent 
difficult and dangerous, and that his superior judgment 
might be required to pick the way, for a misstep 
would have precipitated us on to the rugged rocks at its 
base ; and it also proved that he would not allow his 
men or officers to encounter perils or dangers in which 
he did not participate. 

After three hours' hard toil we reached the summit 
and beheld a panorama of unspeakable sublimity spread 
out before us ; continuous chains of mountains reared 
their snowy peaks far away in the distance, while the 
Grand Eiver plunging along in awful sublimity through 
its rocky bed, was seen for the first time. Above us the 
cerulean heaven, without a single cloud to mar its 
beauty, was sublime in its calmness. 



REFLECTIONS 83 

Standing as it were in this vestibule of God's holy 
Temple, I forgot I was of this mundane sphere ; the di- 
vine part of man elevated itself, undisturbed by the 
influences of the world. I looked from nature, up to 
nature's God, more chastened and purified than I ever 
felt before. 
f Plunged up to my middle in snow, I made a pano- 
rama of the continuous ranges of mountains around us. y 
Col. Fremont made barometrical and thermometrical 
observations, and occupied a part of his time in geological 
examinations. We descended safely, and with a keen 
appetite, discussed the merits of our dried buffalo and 
deer meat. 



84 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTEK XIV. 

Intense Cold — Author's First Journey on Foot — Immense Mountains of Snow — Escape 
of his Pony — Lose Sight of Companions — Arrival at top of the Mountain — Pony 
Recovered — Revolution of Feeling— Indian Gratitude Exemplified — Horse Steaks 
Fried in Tallow Candles— Blanc Mange— New Year's Day — Dangerous Ascent of 
a Mountain — Mules tumble Down — Animals Killed — Successful Attempt Next Day 
— Camp in four feet of Snow — Coldest Night — Sleep out in open Snow. 

Eating, sleeping, and travelling, continually in the open 
air, with the thermometer descending, as we gradually 
ascended the immense slopes of country between the 
frontiers of Missouri and the Rocky Mountains, until 
X have found myself in a temperature of 30° below 
zero, prepared my system for the intense cold, which 
we endured during our journey through that elevated 
country. Twice only did our party find it too cold to 
travel longer than half an hour, without stopping and 
making a large fire to keep ourselves from freezing. 
"We were all mounted at the time, but we found it neces- 
sary to walk a greater part of the way, to keep up a 
circulation of the blood. 

It is judiciously ordained by a kind Providence, that 
the cold as well as heat, gradually increases in intensity. 

If the human body at a temperate heat, say 80° 
was suddenly exposed to a temperature of 30° below 
zero, in which we travelled without any extra clothing, 
no ill effect resulting, we should not have been able to 
exist for an hour 



A SERIOUS DILEMMA. 



Let us then humbly acknowledge that to the great 
Omnipotent, we owe our being and all the benefits we 
receive. 

MY FIRST JOURNEY ON FOOT. 

It was a very cold day in December; the snow 
covered the immense mountain, over which we had to 
travel, and right merrily we all followed each others 
footsteps in the deep snow. 

When we arrived at the foot of the rugged mountain, 
it was found necessary to dismount, and lead our ani- 
mals along the intricate and tortuous path. As usual 1 
was at the rear of the cavalcade ; I threw the bridle over 
my pony's head, and followed slowly behind him. 1 
plunged frequently up to my neck in chasms of snow 
My efforts to extricate myself cost me some time, and 
when I regained my footing, I discovered my pony 
about fifty vards ahead, trying to regain the party 1 
redoubled my exertions to reach mm-I halloed 
all to no purpose— I sank down exhausted on a rock, 
with the dreadful reality that I was alone, and on foot 
on the mountains of eternal snow, with a long day s 

- iourney before me. 

Gathering fresh strength and courage from the seri- 
ous position I found myself in, I scrambled up that 
mountain with a heart palpitating so loudly, that 1 
could count its pulsations. In this manner, alternately 
resting I reached the top. On looking on the other side 
the only indication of 'the party, was their deep trail 
in the frozen snow. 

I commenced descending, and at considerable distance 
below me, I fancied I saw a moving object under a tree ; 
continuing in the track, slipping at times a distance of 



86 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

ten or fifteen feet, until some disguised rock brought me 
up, I reached the bottom, where I found my pony tied 
to a tree, immediately on the trail. 

"No shipwrecked mariner on beholding the approach 
of a friendly vessel to deliver him from certain death, 
ever felt greater joy than I did, when I realized that it 
was my horse which I saw. 

This incident was most injurious to me, and I felt its 
effects for several days, both in body and mind. I 
mounted my pony, and arrived in camp at dark, some 
four or five hours after the rest of the party. 

Captain Wolff saw my pony riderless, and suspecting 
that he had escaped from me, caught and tied him up 
in the place where he was sure to be found ; thus 
repaying me a hundred fold for my medical advice and 
attendance on Salt creek. 

****** 



HORSE STEAKS FRIED IN TALLOW CANDLES, AND BLANO 
MANGE FOR DESSERT. 

At Bent's Fort, Col. Fremont had several pounds 
of candles made out of buffalo tallow ; the want of 
convenient boxes to convey them, resulted in many of 
them being broken to pieces, so as to render them use- 
less as candles. On the first of January, 1854, our 
men were regaled by unexpected, though not unwelcome 
luxuries. 

I had reserved with religious care, two boxes contain- 
ing one pound each, of Alden's preserved eggs and 
milk. — (The yolks of the eggs were beaten to a thick 
paste with a pound of loaf sugar, the milk was also pre- 
pared with powdered sugar, and hermetically sealed in 



HORSE STEAKS AND BLANC MANGE. 87 

tin cases.) — These two tins I had stowed away in my 
boxes, being the remains of the six dozen which had 
been wantonly destroyed at our six weeks camp on Salt 
Creek. 

Nobody knew I had them. A paper of arrow root, 
which my wife had placed in my trunk, for diet, in case 
I was sick, I had also reserved. These three comestibles, 
boiled in six gallons of water, made as tine a blanc 
mange as ever was manged on Mount Blanc. This 
" dessert" I prepared without the knowledge of Col. 
Fremont. 

Our dinner, in honor of "New Year's Day," consisted, 
besides our usual " horse soup," of a delicious dish of 
horse steaks, fried in the remnants of our " tallow 
candles." But the satisfaction and astonishment of the 
whole party cannot be portrayed, when I introduced, 
as dessert, my incomparable blanc mange. " Six gal- 
lons of bona fide" nourishing food, sweetened and 
flavored ! It is hardly necessary to say. that it disap- 
peared in double quick time. The whole camp had a 
share of it ; and we were all sorry that there was " no 

more left of the same sort." 

***** 

Several days after we came down from the Cocho- 
tope Pass, it became necessary to ascend a very high 
and excessively steep mountain of snow. When we 
were half way up, one of the foremost baggage mules 
lost his balance, from his hind feet sinking deep in the 
snow. Down he tumbled, heels-over-head, carrying 
with him nearly the whole cavalcade, fifty odd in num- 
ber, several hundred feet to the bottom. 

It was a serious, yet a most ludicrous spectacle, to 
witness fifty animals rolling headlong down a snow 



88 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

mountain, gaining fresh impetus as they descended, 
unable to stop themselves. The bales of buffalo robes, 
half buried in the snow, lodged against an old pine tree, 
the blankets scattered everywhere ; my boxes of da- 
guerreotype materials uninjured, although buried in the 
snow. Considerable time was occupied in searching 
after them. 

I found myself standing up to my eyes in snow, high 
up the mountain, witnessing this curiously interesting, 
although disastrous accident; for, when we collected 
ourselves and animals together, we found that one mule 
and one horse were killed. This scene made a deep 
impression upon me. Night came upon us before we 
were ready to leave the spot. We camped on the same 
place of the night before. 

A snow storm commenced raging, which detained us 
in this situation for another day ; when, determined to 
cross the mountain, we all recommenced the ascent, and 
successfully arrived, though much exhausted, without 
further accident, at the top, and encamped on its sum- 
mit in snow four feet deep. 

That night the thermometer sank very low, and the 
men stood to their waists in snow, guarding the animals 
to prevent their running away in search of grass, or 
something to eat. 

We descended the mountain the next day. Our tent 
poles, belonging to the large lodge, were broken by 
their contact with the trees in the winding path. The 
lodge, afterwards, became useless, and the men, myself 
among them, had to sleep out upon the open snow, with 
no covering but our blankets, etc. 



DELAWARES KILL A WILD HOUSE. 89 



CHAPTER XV. 

Descent of Snow Mountains — Gun for a Walking-stick — Indian Tracks — Examination 
of Arms— Predicament of the Author — Lecture from Col. Fremont — Wild Horse Killed 
by Indians — Utah Indian Village — Encampment — Trade for Venison — Camp at Night 

x Surrounded by armed Indians — They Demand Payment for the Horse Killed by the 
Indians — Col. Fremont's Justice — Indians want Gunpowder — Their Demand Refused 
— Massacre of the Party Threatened — Defiance — Pacification — Author Trades for a 
Horse — He Leaves his Colt's Revolver in Camp — Runaway Horse — Author Finds 
himself in a Sage Bush — Pistol Recovered — Trouble in Perspective — Exchanges Horses 
— Lame Horse— Author on Foot — Regrets that he was not Educated for a Horse- 
Breaker. 

After descending a very steep mountain, on the snows 
of which we passed the coldest night I experienced 
during the journey, the thermometer, at daylight, being 
30 degrees below zero, we camped on a creek fringed 
with willows and interspersed with cotton-wood. The 
country indicating that there might be game about, our 
Delawares sallied out in quest of some. 

We at this time were on rations of meat-biscuit,* 
and had killed our first horse for food. Towards night, 
our hunters returned, and brought with them the choice 
parts of a fine fat, young horse that they had killed, 
lie was one of three or four wild ones which they dis- 
covered grazing some four miles from camp. 

Our men, in consequence, received a considerable 
addition to their stock of provisions, which, when cooked, 

* A preparation made bj saturating flour with the juices of boiled beef, 

and then baked into biscuit. 



90 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

proved much more palatable than our broken down 
horses. 

The Delawares also discovered recent footprints of 
Utah Indians. This information caused Col. Fremont 
to double the guard and examine the arms of the whole 
party, who hitherto had been warned by him of the 
necessity there was for keeping them in perfect order. 

Suddenly it occurred to me that my double-barrel 
gun might be out of order: I had used it as a walking- 
stick, in descending the mountain that day ; the snow 
was so deep that I was obliged to resort to that course 
to extricate myself from the drifts. 

I quietly went to the place where I had laid it down, 
and attempted to fire it off; both caps exploded, but the 
gun did not go off, the barrels being filled with frozen 
snow. The quick ear of Col. Fremont heard the caps 
explode. He approached me very solemnly and gave 
me a lecture, setting forth the consequences which might 
have ensued from a sudden attack of the Indians on our 
camp. " Under present circumstances, Mr. Carvalho," 
said he, " I should have to fight for you." His rebuke 
was merited, and had its effect throughout the camp, 
for all the men were most particular afterwards in keep- 
ing their arms in perfect order. 

"We travelled that day nearly twenty mile's, and en- 
camped outside of a Utah Indian village, containing a 
large number of lodges and probably several hundred 
persons. 

The men were mostly armed with rifles, powder- 
horns, and also with their Indian implements of war- 
fare. On our mules was packed the balance of our 
" fat horse " of the night before. 

These Indians received us very kindly, and during the 



col. fbemont's justice. 91 

evening we exposed our wares, viz. : blankets, knives, 
red cloth, vermilion, etc., etc., which we brought along 
to conciliate the Indians, and also to trade with them for 
horses and venison. 

"We made several purchases, and traded for several 
small lots of fat \;enison. 

About nine o'clock, after placing double guard 
around our animals and while we were regaling on fat 
deer meat in Col. Fremont's lodge, we heard loud noises 
approaching the camp ; voices of women were heard in 
bitter bewailment. I thought it was a religious cere- 
mony of Indian burial, or something of the kind. Col. 
Fremont requested me to see from what it proceeded. 
I found the whole Indian camp in procession assembled 
around our lodge. The warriors were all armed, headed 
by a half-breed, who had been some time in Mexico, 
and had acquired a smattering of the Spanish language ; 
this man acted as interpreter. Understanding the 
Spanish language, I gleaned from him that the horse 
our Delawares had killed the evening before, some 
twenty miles away, belonged to one of the squaws then 
present, who valued it very highly, and demanded pay- 
meut. 

On informing Col. Fremont, who denied himself to 
the Indians, he remarked that " we had no right to kill 
their horse without remunerating them for it." The 
man in charge of the baggage was deputed to give them 
what was a fair compensation for it. 

The Indians having seen our assortment, wanted a 
part of everything we had, including a keg of gun- 
powder. 

To this demand Col. Fremont gave an absolute refu- 
sal, and/ at the same time emphatically expressed his 



92 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAE WEST. 

desire that the men should not sell, barter, or give away 
a single grain of gunpowder, on pain of his severest 
displeasure. 

The Indians then threatened to attack us. Col. Fre- 
mont defied them."* After considerable parleying, we 
succeeded in pacifying them. 

As it was the intention of Col. Fremont to leave camp 
at an early hour, I unpacked my daguerreotype appara- 
tus, at daylight, and made several views. 

While engaged in this way, one of the Utah Indians 
brought into camp a beautiful three-year-old colt, and 
offered to trade him with me ; he was a model pony — 
dark bay color, in splendid order, sound in wind and 
limb, and full of life and fire. My poor buffalo Pungo 
had, three days before, been shot down for food, and in 
consequence I was literally on foot, although I was 
using one of the baggage animals for the time. 

With permission of Col. Fremont I traded for him ; 
I gave him in exchange one pair of blankets, an old 
dress coat, a spoiled daguerreotype plate, a knife, halt 
an ounce of vermilion and an old exhausted pony, which 
we would have been obliged to leave behind ; previous 
to the trade, I had never mounted him, but I saw the 
Indian ride him, and his movements were easy and 
graceful. The Indian saddled him for me, as I was 
otherwise engaged, and did not notice him during the 
operation. By this time the rest of the party were all 
mounted, and I never jumped on him until the last mo- 
ment ; he winced a little under the bit, the first one he 
ever had in his mouth, but cantered off at a round pace, 
I would not at that moment have taken $500 for him. 
I considered myself safely mounted for the rest of the 
journey. 



THE AUTIIOK IN A SAGE BUSH. 93 

After we had proceded about two miles, my pony 
prancing and caracoling to the admiration of the whole 
party, I discovered that I had left my Colt's navy revolver 
in camp. I told Col. Fremont of my carelessness, and 
he smilingly sent one of the men back with me to look 
for it. I must confess I had not the slightest hopes of 
finding it, nor had he. 

At the time we started, there must have been two 
hundred Utah men, women, and children at our camp, 
and if one of them had picked it up, it was most unlikely 
I should ever receive it again. They had shown some 
hostility, and although I was not afraid to go back, 
I thought some danger attended it — Frank Dixon ac- 
companied me. 

My pony finding his head turned homeward, com- 
menced champing at his bit, and working his head and 
body, endeavoring to get away. I prided myself on 
being a good horseman, but this fellow was too much for 
me. 

lie got the bit between his teeth and off he started at 
a killing pace for camp. In less than five minutes I 
found myself in a wild sage bush on the road ; the sad- 
dle had slipped round his body, which was as smooth as 
a cylinder, while I, losing my balance, slipped off. 

My pony was quietly grazing in the Indian camp, 
when I, riding double with Frank, arrived there. The 
most important thing, was my pistol ; I proceeded 
immediately to the spot, and, hidden in the long grass, 
where I laid it down, I found it. 

With the assistance of the Utahs, my pony w r as cap- 
tured, and doubling the saddle-blanket, I attempted to 
draw the girth tightly — he resisted, and gave considera- 
ble trouble; but I was finally mounted, and away we 



94 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURKS IN THE FAR WEST. 

cantered after our party, which we overtook after a 
couple of hours' ride. 

This animal continued to trouble me every morning 
afterwards. On one occasion, I was saddling him, to 
perform which operation, I had to tie him to a tree, if 
one was at hand ; at the time I now describe, he was 
tied to a tree, and in vain I endeavored to place the 
saddle on him, finally, he reared, and planted both feet 
on my breast, and I barely escaped with my life, yet 
my pride never suffered me to complain about it. Some- 
times one of my comrades would assist me, but on this 
occasion, Col. Fremont saw my predicament ; in a few 
minutes, his servant, " Lee," came to me, and said, " he 
was more accustomed to break horses than I was," and 
offered to exchange with me, until mine was more 
manageable. 

This man rode a cream colored pacer, which Col. Fre- 
mont wanted to take through to California, if possible, 
as a riding horse for his daughter. I need not say how 
gladly I accepted this offer. I rode out of camp that 
morning much lighter in spirits, although suffering 
somewhat from the bruises I received. The horse I 
exchanged for, was a pacer, he had no other gait ; and 
unaccustomed to it, I did not notice, until one of the 
Delawares pointed out to me, that there was any defect 
in him. 

Captain Wolff was riding by my side during the day, 
and expressed in his Indian manner, how surprised he 
was that I had exchanged my fresh pony for a lame 
pacer, " one day more, that horse no travel, Carvalho 
go foot again!" 

His prognostications proved, alas, too true, for on. the 
second day, he was so lame that I could not ride him, 



IHE AUTHOR REGRETS. 95 

and I remained on foot, while my beautiful pony was 
gallantly bearing the cook. 

3 The horse, he said, was not lame when he gave him 
to me, and I could not prove that he was, so I was con- 
strained to submit, but I never saw this man galloping 
past me, while 1 was on foot, that I did not regret I was 
not brought up as an " ostler and professional horse- 
breaker." 



96 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Grand River — Descent of Mounted Indians into Camp — Military Reception — Their de- 
mands — Trouble Expected — Excitement of the Author — Exhibition of Colt's Revolvers 
— Col. Fremont's Knowledge of Indian Character — The Great Captain in his Lodge — 
Alarm of the Indians — Quadruple Guard — Departure of Indians — Vigilance the price of 
Safety — Crossing of the Grand River— Horse Killed for Food — Review of Our 
Position — Impressive Scene — Cold Night— Mr. Fuller — Whites without Food — Beaver 
Shot — The Camp under Arms — False Alarm. 

When we left the Utah village, we travelled a long 
day's journey, aud camped on the Grand River, thirty 
miles from the last camp ; my pony behaved admirably 
well on the road, and I would not have parted with 
him on any account. 

While at supper, the guard on the look-out gave the 
alarm that mounted Indians were approaching, the word 
was given to arm and prepare to receive them. 

About fifty or sixty mounted Utah Indians, all armed 
with rifles, and bows and arrows, displaying their powder 
horns and cartouch boxes most conspicuously, their 
horses full of mettle, and gaily caparisoned, came gal- 
loping and tearing into camp. 

They had also come to be compensated for the horse 
we had paid for the night before ; they insisted that the 
horse did not belong to the woman, but to one of the 
men then present, and threatened, if we did not pay . 
them a great deal of red cloth, blankets, vermilion, 
knives, and gunpowder, they would fall upon us and 
massacre the whole party. 



THE " SIX SHOOTERS." 97 

Ou these occasions, Col. Fremont never showed him- 
self, which caused the Indians to have considerable 
more respect for the " Great Captain," as they usually 
called him ; nor did he ever communicate directly with 
them, which gave him time to deliberate, and lent a 
mysterious importance to his messages. Very much 
alarmed, I entered Col. Fremont's lodge, and told him 
their errand and their threats. He at once expressed 
his determination not to submit to such imposition, and 
at the same time, laughed at their threats ; I could not 
comprehend his calmness. I deemed our position most 
alarming, surrounded as we were by armed savages, and 
I evidently betrayed my alarm in my countenance. 
Col. Fremont without apparently noticing my nervous 
state, remarked that he knew the Indian character per- 
fectly, and he did not hesitate to state, that there was 
not sufficient powder to load a single rifle in the pos- 
session of the whole tribe of Utahs. "If," continued 
he, " they had any ammunition, they would have 
surrounded and massacred us, and stolen what they now 
demand, and are parleying for." 

I at once saw that it was a most sensible deduction, 
and gathered fresh courage. The general aspect of the 
enemy was at once changed, and I listened to his direc- 
tions with a different frame of mind than when I first 
entered. 

He tore a leaf from his journal, and handing it to me, 
said : here take this, and place it against a tree, and at 
a distance near enough to hit it every time, discharge 
your Colt's Navy six shooters, fire at intervals of from 
ten to fifteen seconds — and call the attention of the 
Indians to the fact, that it is not necessary for white men 
to load their arms. 

5 



98 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

I did so ; after the first shot, they pointed to their 
own rifles, as much as to say they could do the same, 
(if they had happened to have the powder), I, without 
lowering my arm, fired a second shot, this startled 
them. 

I discharged it a third time — their curiosity and amaze- 
ment were increased : the fourth time, I placed the pistol 
in the hands of the chief and told him to discharge it, 
which he did, hitting the paper and making another 
impression of the bullet. 

The fifth and sixth times two other Indians discharged 
it, and the whole six barrels being now fired it was time 
to replace it in my belt. 

I had another one already loaded, which I dexterously 
substituted, and scared them into an acknowledgment 
that they were all at our mercy, and we could kill them 
as fast as we liked, if we were so disposed. 

After this exhibition, they forgot their first demand, 
and proposed to exchange some of their horses for blan- 
kets, etc. 

We effected a trade for three or four apparently sound, 
strong animals ; " Moses," one of the Delaware chiefs, 
also traded for one, but in a few days they all proved 
lame and utterly useless as roadsters, and we had to kill 
them for food. 

The Indians with the consent of Col. Fremont, 
remained in camp all night; they had ridden thirty 
miles that day, and were tired. On this occasion, eleven 
men, fully armed, were on guard at one time. 

The Indians who no doubt waited in camp to run 
our horses off during the night, were much disap- 
pointed in not having an opportunity. They quietly 
departed the next morning, while our whole camp listen- 



col. fkemont's intrepidity. 99 

ed to the energetic exclamation of Col. Fremont, that 
the "price of safety is eternal vigilance." 

The crossing of the Grand Biver, the eastern fork of 
the Colorado, was attended with much difficulty and 
more danger. The weather was excessively cold, the 
ice on the margin of either side of the river was over 
eighteen inches thick ; the force of the stream always 
kept the passage in the centre open ; the distance be- 
tween the ice, was at our crossing, about two hundred 
yards. I supposed the current in the river to run at the 
rate of six miles an hour. The animals could scarcely 
keep their footing on the ice, although the men had been 
engaged for half an hour in strewing it with sand. The 
river was about six feet deep, making it necessary to 
to swim our animals across ; the greatest difficulty was 
in persuading them to make the abrupt leap from the 
ice to the roaring gulph, and there was much danger 
from drowning in attempting to get on the sharp ice on 
the other side, the water being beyond the depth of the 
animals', nothing but their heads were above water, con- 
sequently the greater portion of their riders' bodies were 
also immersed in the freezing current. 

To arrive at a given point, affording the most facilities 
for getting upon the ice, it was necessary to swim your 
horse in a different direction to allow for the powerful 
current. I think I must have been in the water, at least 
a quarter of an hour. The awful plunge from the ice 
into the water, I never shall have the ambition to try 
again ; the weight of my body on the horse, naturally 
made him go under head and all ; I held on as fast as a 
cabin boy to a main-stay in a gale of wind. If I had 
lost my balance it is most probable I should have been 
<ln>\vned. I was nearly drowned as it was, and my 



100 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

clothes froze stiff upon me when I came out of it. Some 
of the Delawares crossed first and built a large fire on 
the other side, at which we all dried our clothes standing 
in. them. 

It is most singular, that with all the exposure that 
I was subjected to on this journey, I never took the 
slightest cold, either in my head or on my chest ; I do 
not recollect ever sneezing. While at home, I ever was 
most susceptible to cold. 

The whole party crossed without any accident ; Col. 
Fremont was the first of our party to leap his horse into 
the angry flood, inspiring his men, by his fearless exam- 
ple to follow. 

" Julius Caesar crossed the Rubicon with an immense 
army ; streams of blood followed in his path through 
the countries he subdued, to his arrival at the Eternal 
City, where he was declared dictator and consul." 

On a former expedition, Col. Fremont crossed the 
Grand River with a handful of men ; but no desolation 
followed in his path. With the flag of his country in 
one hand and the genius of Liberty resting on his brow, 
he penetrated through an enemy's country, converting 
all hearts as he journeyed, conquering a country of great- 
er extent than Cassar's whole empire, until he arrived at 
San Francisco, where die became military commandant 
and governor in chief of California, by the simple will 
of the people. Fremont's name and deeds, will become 
as imperishable as Caesar's. 

At last we are drawn to the necessity of killing our 
brave horses for food. The sacrifice of my own pony 
that had carried me so bravely in my first buffalo hunt, 
was made; he had been running loose for a week unable 
to bear even a bundle of blankets. It was a solemn 



A SOLEMN SCENE. 101 

event with me, an<l rendered more so by the impressive 
scene which followed. 

Col. Fremont came out to us, and after referring to 
the dreadful necessities to which we were reduced, said 
" a detachment of men whom he had sent for succor on 
a former expedition, had been guilty of eating one of 
their own number." He expressed his abhorrence of 
the act, and proposed that we should not under any cir- 
cumstances whatever, kill our companions to prey upon 
them. " If we are to die, let us die together like men." 
He then threatened to shoot the first man that made or 
hinted at such a proposition. 

It was a solemn and impressive sight to see a body 
of white men, Indians, and Mexicans, on a snowy 
mountain, at night, some with bare head and clasped 
hands entering into this solemn compact. I never 
until that moment realized the awful situation in which 
I, one of the actors in this scene, was placed. 

I remembered the words of the sacred Psalmist, 
(Psalm cviii. -t-7) and felt perfectly assured of my 
final deliverance. — "They ivandered in the wilderness 
in a solitary way : They found no city to dwell in. 

" Hungry and thirsty their souls fainted within them. 
Then they cried unto the Lord in their trouble, and he 
delivered them out of their distresses. 

" And he led them forth by the right way that they 
might go to a city of habitation. 

" Oh, that men would praise the Lord for his good- 
ness, and for his wonderful works to the children of 
men." 

It was a clear, cold night, on the Eagle Tail Kiver, 
after a long fast, and a dreary walk, our men had 
returned supperless to sleep on their snowy bed, and 



102 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

with no prospect of anything to eat in the morning, to 
refresh them for another day's tramp. It was a standing 
rule in camp that a rifle discharged between the set of 
watch at night until daylight, was a signal that Indians 
were approaching, and this rule had been strictly 
observed, as a safeguard to the party. I have seen our 
camp on Salt Creek surrounded with wolves — they even 
came within its precincts and stole our buffalo meat, 
but our Delawares would never allow an arm to be dis- 
charged. On this occasion, Mr. Fuller was on guard, 
and it was a few days before he gave out. We bad been 
twenty-four hours without a meal, and as may be sup- 
posed, he was as hungry as the rest of us ; while patrolling 
up and down the river on the banks of which we were 
encamped, his keen eye discovered a beaver swimming 
across the stream; he watched it with rifle to his shoul- 
der, and as it landed, he fired and killed it. 

The sudden discharge of a rifle during a still night, 
under overhanging mountains, and in the valley of the 
river where we expected to find Indians, made a tre- 
mendous explosion. The sound reverberated along the 
rocks, and was re-echoed by the valley. Instantly the 
whole camp was on duty. Col. Fremont who had been 
making astronomical observations, had but a few mo- 
ments previously retired to rest. He rushed out of his 
lodge, completely armed, the party assembled around 
it and all were filled with the utmost anxiety and alarm. 
"We did not know the number or character of the 
enemy, but we were all prepared to do battle to the 
death. In a few moments, one of the Delawares ap- 
proached camp dragging after him an immense beaver, 
which he said Mr. Fuller had killed for breakfast. The 
sight of something to eat, instead of something to fight, 



A FALSE ALARM. 103 

created quite a revolution of feeling; and taking into 
consideration the extremity, which caused Mr. Fuller 
to break through the rule, Col. Fremont passed it off 
quietly enough. Poor Fuller did not realize the excited 
condition of the camp, until he was relieved from duty. 
Our beaver was dressed for breakfast, when Fuller told 
Col. Fremont that he was so anxious and delighted at 
seeing the beaver, that he entirely forgot the rule of 
the camp. 



104 TRAVELS AND ADVENTUKKS IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Divide between Grand and Green River— Capt. Gunnison's Trail— Without Water- 
Formation of the Country— Castellated Bluffs— Green River Indians — Crossing of the 
Green River— Interview with Indians — Disappointment — Grass-seed — Manner of 
Preparing it for Food — Horse Purchased— Starving Condition of the Whites— Incident 
Exhibiting the Moral Dishonesty of one of the Men — Name not Published — Dinner 
on Porcupine — "Living Graves" — Tempestuous Night — Reflections on Guard — No 
Grass — Frozen Horse Liver — Blunted Feelings. 

The divide between Grand River and the Green 
River, (the eastern and western forks of the Colorado) 
is barren and sterile to a degree. At the season 
that we crossed, there was no water between the two 
rivers, a distance of about forty miles. Capt. Gunni- 
son's wagon trail was still plainly visible at the crossing 
of a gully, now however without water. 

That party must have had great difficulty in transport- 
ing their wagons across it. From its appearance, a tre- 
mendous body of water must have forced a passage 
through the gully, at that time. Dwarf artemisia grows 
sparsely on this sandstone formation. 

At the roots of the artemisia still remained small 
quantities of dry powdered snow. To allay my thirst, I 
have put my head under the bush, and lapped the snow 
with my tongue. The descent into the valley of the 
Green River was over most dangerous projections of 
different strata of rock, thrown into its present state by 
some convulsion of nature. 



GRASS-SEED FOR FOOD. 105 

When we arrived at the river, we saw on the high 
sand bluffs, on the opposite side, several Indians, whose 
numbers soon increased. As our party was much ex- 
hausted for want of wholesome food, we were buoyed 
up with hopes that we could obtain supplies from them. 

We crossed the river, and were conducted by the In- 
dians to a fertile spot on the western bank of it, where 
their village was. We found that they lived on no- 
thing else but grass-seed, which they collected in the 
fall. Their women parch it, and grind it between 
stones. In this manner it is very palatable, and tastes 
very much like roasted peanuts. 

This, their only article of food, was very scarce, and 
we could procure only a small supply. I parted with 
everything out of my daguerreotype boxes that I did 
not require, and several articles of necessary clothing, 
for about a quart of it. It is very nourishing, and very 
easy of digestion. The quantity I had, lasted me for 
three days. I made a hearty meal of it the night we 
camped among them. 

To the sustaining proporties of this cereal, I firmly 
believe, I owe the strength which enabled me to un- 
dergo the physical exertion that was required to reach 
the settlements. 

Each man procured a more or less quantity. 

Col. Fremont purchased a lame horse, in very good 
condition, which was slaughtered at this camp ; and an 
incident occurred which proved to me the real character 
of one of my companions. 

At the killing of this horse, nearly all the men were 

present. They had not tasted food for nearly two days, 

and were, consequently, ravenous, and thought of 

nothing else but satisfying the cravings of hunger. 

5* 



106 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

As soon as the horse was slaughtered, without excep- 
tion, every one cut off a piece, and roasted it at the 
different camp fires. This was contrary to camp dis- 
cipline ; and, a complaint was made to Col. Fremont, 

by one of the Delawares, of what was going on, Mr. 

was among the first to cut off pieces from the meat, 
and he devoured larger quantities than the rest of us. 
When Col. Fremont was approaching, he took his 
pencil and paper out of his pocket, and seating himself 
by the fire, appeared to be deeply absorbed in his occu- 
pation. The rest of us remained where we were, par- 
taking of the roast. Col. Fremont lectured us all for 
not waiting until supper, to eat our respective shares, 
and pointed this " gentleman" out as an exception, and 
as one who exercised " great self-denial." At the same 
moment, he had a piece of meat, covered up in the 
cinders, at his feet ! 

This " gentleman," instead of avowing his complicity, 
encouraged the mistake of Col. Fremont, by his con- 
tinued silence. If lie ever reads this journal, he will re- 
cognize himself, and, probably, not thank me for with- 
holding his " name" from the public. 

One -of the most tiresome and unpleasant of duties 
devolves on those of the party who are at the end of 
the cavalcade. This duty is, driving up the animals 
which, either from exhaustion or other causes, linger on 
the road. Stopping on the trail to make daguerreo- 
types, generally placed me in the rear ; and I have often 
overtaken the muleteers with a dozen lazy or tired 
animals, using, in vain, all their endeavors to make 
them go ahead. As a rule, I always assisted them, 
sometimes on foot, and in the earlier part of the journey 
on horseback. When a mule takes a stand, and deter- 



RELIEVE THE GUARD. 107 

mines not to budge a step, it requires a man with an 
extraordinary stock of patience to wait upon his mule- 
ship's leisure. 

The idea frequently suggested itself, that I should 
change my professional card-plate, and add instead, my 
name with " M. D." attached, as significant of my new 
office. 

DINNER ON PORCUPINE. 

A large porcupine was killed and brought into camp 
to-day by our Delawares, who placed it on a large fire 
burning off its quills, leaving a thick hard skin, very 
like that of a hog. The meat was white, but very fat, 
it looked very much like pork. My stomach revolted 
at it, and I sat hungry around our mess, looking at my 
comrades enjoying it. The animal weighed about 
thirty pounds. 

RELIEVE THE GUARD. 

I was awakened one night by a rude push from the 
officer of the guard, who was a huge " Delaware." 
" Carvalho, go watch horse." " Twelve o'clock." I 
put my head out of my buffalo robe, and received a pile 
of fresh snow upon me. I had laid myself down on a 
snowbank, before a scanty fire of artemisia. I had my 
clothes on, and wrapped in my buffalo robe, I had 
sought a few hours sleep until my turn to guard arrived. 

I came into camp exhausted, from a ten mile travel 
on foot, over an irregular and broken road. I had 
stopped to make daguerreotypes.; in consequence, I was 
detained, and did not get to camp until near eight 



108 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

With some difficulty I threw off the heavy snow 
which enveloped me, and soon discovered that a north- 
east snow storm was furiously raging. The fire was 
extinguished, and six inches of snow now lay on the 
ashes. I took hold of my gun from under my buffalo 
robe, and asked the Delaware, " where the animals 
were." 

He pointed in the direction, and replied, — " horses on 
the mountain, one mile away." I looked out, but could 
not see ten feet ahead. I thought of the remark my 
good old mother made on a less inclement night, when 
I was a boy, and wanted to go the play. " I would not 
let allow a cat to go out in such weather, much less my 
son." 

Dear soul ! how her heart would have ached for me, 
if she had known a hundredth part of my sufferings. 

I followed in the direction given me, and succeeded 
in finding the animals. I relieved my companion, and 
walking in snow up to my waist, around the animals 
for two hours, formed my sole occupation. 

There was no grass. The horses and mules were 
hungry, and whenever they could steal a chance, they 
would wander out of the corral, and give us trouble to 
hunt them back ; on this night they were very restless, 
and gave the guard continual exercise, which was also 
necessary to keep the life within them ; it was compara- 
tively easy to walk around in the track ; but when one 
went astray, every step you took, jdunged you two feet 
deep in the snow, making it a most tiresome and 
arduous task. The two hours seemed at least six, before 
I was relieved, when groping my way down the moun- 
tain side, I followed the trail to camp ; by this time the 
last guard had made a fresh fire of artemisia, which 



FK0ZEN HOUSE LIVER. 109 

consumes quickly, and burns brightly while consuming. 
I laid on a fresh pile, and by its light I saw the li vino- 
graves of my companions; there they lay, with snow 
underneath them for a bed, and the " cold mantle of 
death," as it were, above them for a coverlid. 

Cold, tired and hungry, I rested myself before the 
fire, and warmed my frozen limbs. 

Some little distance from the lire, now covered with 
snow, lay the frozen meat of the horse we had killed the 
night before; all in the camp were fast wrapped in 
sleep. I was the only one awake. Taking out my jack- 
knife, I approached the pile of meat intended for the 
men's breakfast, and cutting about a half pound of the 
liver from it, I returned to the fire, and without waiting 
to cook it, I consumed it raw — the finer feelings of my 
nature were superseded by the grosser animal propensi- 
ties, induced most probably from the character of the 
food we had been living upon for the last forty days. 

I filled my pipe, and sat wrapped in my robe, enjoy- 
ing the warmth of my fire, determined to remain by it 
until my tobacco was consumed. 

The wind, which had been blowing from the N.E., 
now chopped round to the N.W., dissipating the snow- 
clouds. The glorious queen of night shone forth in 
resplendent brilliancy. With the change of wind came 
an increase of cold — the thermometer, at daylight that 
morning indicated 20° below zero. One of my feet 
which was much blistered became numbed, and gave 
me intense pain. I took off my moccasin, and rubbing 
my foot in the snow to create circulation, I partially 
relieved it. 

Finding it more comfortable, lying down, I crept 



110 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR "WEST. 

under the snowy robe, and made the comparison of the 
warm rooms, feather beds, and silken canopies of the 
St. Nicholas wedding-chamber, with our snow-wreathed 
pillows, airy rooms, and the starry canopy of heaven. 



CARELESS PACKING OF THE MULES. Ill 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Careless Packing of Animals — Mule Missing — Their value as Roadsters — Col. Fremont's 
Horse gives out — His Humanity Exemplified — Wolf killed for Food — Raven Shot — 
River Bottom — Original Forest — Large Camp Fires — Terrible Rain Storm — Disagree- 
able Bed — Darkness — Fires Extinguished — Value of Rain — Glorious Sunrise — Contrast 
with Home Comforts. 



CARELESS PACKING OF THE MULES. 

From careless packing of the mules, many of our party 
were often detained on the road. A bale of blankets 
or buffalo robes, would be displaced while descending 
some steep mountain ; the mule, finding himself free 
from his load, would dart off in an opposite direction 
at full speed ; a chase eusued, sometimes for over an 
hour before he could be captured, repacked, and again 
placed on the trail. 

After performing a most arduous and difficult day's 
journey of fifteen miles, over continuous ranges of 
snowy ridges, we discovered that the mule on which 
was packed the bales of red cloth and blankets, intended 
for trading with the Indians, was missing. The mule- 
teers did not remember to have seen him during the 
day. The animal was well trained, and was considered 
as one of the most willing and docile mules in the lot. 
■Two men were sent back to look for him ; it was easy to 
see if he had left the track, for the snow was unbroken, 
except on the trail make by our own party. 

The men not returning in good time, we became 



112 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

alarmed ; they, however, made their appearance late in 
the night, with our lost mule ; he was found standing, 
exactly in the same place where he was packed, behind 
a tree. 

When the animals were driven out of camp, he was 
partly out of sight, escaped the vigilance of the men, 
and remained stationary, until our men found him in 
the evening ; a lapse of at least twelve hours. 

This incident is related to show the value of Mexican 
mules as faithful beasts of burthen, on which a great 
deal of dependence can always be placed. I consider 
them much preferable for travelling over the plains and 
mountains ; they possess greater powers of endurance 
under privations. A mule will thrive on provender, 
that would starve a horse. If a mule gives out from 
exhaustion ; with a day's rest, and a good meal, he will 
start on his journey, and appear as fresh as he ever was ; 
but if a horse once stops and gives up, it is over with 
him, he is never fit for travel again. I suppose the noble 
and willing spirit of the horse, incites him to work until 
he is incapable of further exertion. 

col. Fremont's horse. * 

Col. Fremont started from Westport with a splendid 
dark bay horse ; he was the pride of the party ; he was 
always at the head of the cavalcade, and would some- 
times look around, as it were disdainfully on his more 
humble companions. He felt his breeding, and I have 
no doubt, knew that he was carrying a gallant officer 
on his back. The Indians on the plains would have 
stolen him, and the Indians of the mountains would have 
given half-a-dozen mustangs for him. Mr. Palmer's 



col. Fremont's horse. I 1 3 

horse gave out, and, was consequently on foot. AVe 
had at this time, the Doctors mule, which we called 
" the Doctor," after he left us at Bent's Fort — run- 
ning loose, as a spare animal, to cany the scientific 
apparatus. Col. Fremont the next day, rode the Doc- 
tor, and mounted Mr. W. II. Palmer on his own horse, 
which he continued to ride for ten days, until he was so 
exhausted for want of food, that he stopped on the road, 
and could not he brought into camp. Mr. Palmer came 
into camp on foot, and told Col. Fremont that his horse 
was left about five miles on the road, that it was impos- 
sible to bring him in. 

I shortly afterwards heard Col. Fremont give orders 
to the Delaware camp, to send out a couple of men to 
find the horse and shoot it through the head. He 
had too much affection for the noble animal, to allow 
him to become a living sacrifice to the voracious 
wolves. The finer feelings of his heart seemed to 
govern all his actions, as well towards man as beast. 

When it became necessary to slaughter our animals 
for food, I refrained from eating it in the vain hope of 
hilling game, until exhausted nature demanded recu- 
peration. I then partook of the strange and forbidden 
food with much hesitation, and only in small quantities. 
The taste of young fat horse meat is sweet and nutty, 
and could scarcely be distinguished from young beef, 
while that of the animal after it is almost starved to 
death, is without any flavor ; you know you are eating 
flesh, but it contains no juices — it serves to sustain life, 
it contains but little nutritive matter, and one grows 
poor and emaciated, while living on it alone. Mule 
meat can hardly be distinguished from horse meat, I 
never could tell the difference. Dunns: one of the inter- 



114 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

vala when we were, from our own imprudence, entirely 
without food, a Delaware killed a cayotte, brought 
it into camp, and divided it equally between our messes — 
my share remained untouched. I had fasted 24 hours, 
and preferred to remain as many hours longer rather 
than partake of it. The habits of the horse and mule 
are clean ; their food consists of grass and grain ; but I 
was satisfied that my body could receive no benefit from 
eating the flesh of an animal that lived on carrion. 
Those who did partake of it were all taken with cramps 
and vomiting. 

An old raven that had been hovering around us for 
several days, "to gather the crumbs from the rich 
man's table," paid at last the penalty of his temerity by 
receiving a rifle ball through his head. One of the men 
picked the feathers from its fleshless body and threw the 
carcass on the ground before us. It lay there unde- 
vourecl when we left camp. I have no doubt if subse- 
quently gave employment to a brother raven. 

A RAIN STORM. 

At the close of a long day's journey we descended 
into a fertile, although unknown, narrow valley, covered 
with dense forests of trees ; a clear stream of water 
glided over its rocky bed, in the centre, and im- 
mense high sandstone mountains enclosed us ; we 
chose a camp near the entrance of the valley, having 
deviated from our course, which was over the table land 
500 feet above us, to obtain wood and water. 

It is not at all improbable that our party were the 
first white men that ever penetrated into it — it was in 
reality a primeval forest. Our feet sank deep into the 



TEEKIBLE RAIN STORM. 115 

bed of dead leaves, huge trunks of trees in all stages of 
decay lay strewed around us, while trees of many kinds, 
were waving aloft their majestic limbs covered with 
spring foliage, shading our pathway. On the margin 
of the river grass of good quality grew in abundance, 
which afforded a delightful meal for our wearied animals. 
Although there was no snow visible around us, still the 
weather was cold and raw, the heavens were filled 
with floating clouds which seemed to increase as the 
night advanced. Large camp fires were soon burning, 
and another of our faithful horses was shot for food. 

Selecting as I thought a comfortable place for my 
sleeping apartment, I made up my bed, placing as usual 
my India-rubber blanket on the decayed leaves. After 
supper I laid myself down to rest my exhausted body. 

I had been on foot all day, travelling over a rugged 
country of volcanic formation, with an apology for 
moccasins on my lacerated and painful feet. I slept 
soundly until twelve o'clock, when I felt the cold 
water insinuating itself between my clothes and body. 
I uncovered my head, over which I had my robe and 
blankets, to find it raining fast and steadily. In an 
hour, I found myself laying in water nearly a foot deep. 
I could not escape from my present situation. Wrap- 
ping my India-rubber closely around me, I remained 
perfectly passive, submitting to the violence of the 
heaviest and most drenching rain-storm I experienced 
on the whole journey. 

Darkness reigned supreme. Our camp-fires were 
extinguished, and but for the occasional ejaculations of 
our men, only the furious raging of the tempest, and 
the roar of the streams that came bounding in torrents 
from the table land above, could be heard. My blank- 



116 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

ets and robe became saturated with water, while my 
clothes were wet to the skin. 

I had ample time to reflect on my position ; but while 
I experienced much personal inconvenience from the 
storm, the parched earth, over which we had travelled 
miles without a drop of water, received fresh sustenance 
from the refreshing shower. The dry and withered 
grass on our forward path, would be replaced by young 
tender shoots for our animals to sustain themselves. It 
is a happy thing for ns that futurity is impenetrable, 
else my fond and fragile friends at home would endure 
more anguish than they do now, in their ignorance of 
the situation their husband and son is placed in. 

Morning at last dawned, and with it appeared the 
sun, dissipating the clouds. Our camp equipage was 
all soaked. The daguerreotype apparatus was unhurt ; 
my careful precaution always securing it against snow 
or rain. My polishing buffs I used the next day, when 
we ascended the mountain ; I found them perfectly dry, 
and worked successfully with them. We remained late 
in camp the next morning to dry our blankets, etc. 
This was the first and only real storm of rain, we en- 
countered in a six months' journey. 



MR. OLIVER FULLER GIVES OUT. 117 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Crippled Condition of the Party — Mr. Oliver Fuller— Mr. Egloffstien — Mr. Fuller gives 
out — His Inability to Proceed — Mr. Egloffstien and the Author continue on to Camp 
for Assistance — Col. Fremont sends Frank Dixon after him— Sorrow of the Camp- 
Mr. Fuller's Non-Appearance — Delawares sent out to Bring the Men in — Return of 
Frank Almost Frozen — Restoration of Mr. Fuller — Joy of the Men — Serious Thoughts 
— The Author Prepared to Remain on the Road — His Miraculous Escape. 

Mr. Eglofi'stien, Mr. Fuller, and myself were generally 
at the end of the train, our scientific duties re- 
quiring us to stop frequently on the road. Mr. Fuller 
had been on foot several days before any of the rest of 
the party, his horse having been the first to give out. 
On this occasion, we started out of camp together. We 
were all suffering from the privations we had endured, 
and, of the three, I was considered the worst off. One 
of my feet became sore, from walking on the flinty 
mountains with thin moccasins, and I was very lame in 
consequence. Mr. Fuller's feet were nearly wholly ex- 
posed. The last pair of moccasins I had, I gave him a 
week before ; now his toes were out, and he walked 
witl i great difficulty over the snow. He never com- 
plained when we started in the morning, and I was sur- 
prised when he told me he had " given out." 

"Nonsense, man,'' I said; "let us rest awhile, and 
we will gather fresh strength." We did so, and at every 
ten steps he had to stop, until he told us that he could 
go no further. 



118 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Mr. Fuller was the strongest and largest man in 
camp when we left Westport, and appeared much bet- 
ter able to bear the hardships of the journey than any 
man in it. I was the weakest, and thought ten days 
before that I would have given out, yet I live to write 
this history of his sufferings and death, and to pay this 
tribute to his memory. 

The main body of the camp had preceded us, and 
they were at least four miles a-head. Both Mr. Egloff- 
stien and myself offered our personal assistance ; Mr. 
Fuller leaned upon us, but could not drag one foot after 
the other — his legs suddenly becoming paralyzed. When 
we realized his condition, we determined to remain with 
him ; to this he decidedly objected — "Go on to camp," 
said he, " and if possible, send me assistance. You can 
do me no good by remaining, for if you do not reach 
camp before night, we shall all freeze to death." 

He luckily had strapped to his back his blue blank- 
ets, which we carefully wrapped around him. In vain 
we hunted for an old bush or something with which to 
make a lire — nothing but one vast wilderness of snow 
was visible. Bidding him an affectionate farewell, and 
promising to return, we told him not to move off the 
trail, and to keep awake if possible. 

Limping forward, Egloffstien and myself resumed our 
travel ; the sun had passed the meridian, and dark clouds 
overhung us. The night advanced apace, and with it an 
increase of cold. We stopped often on the road, and 
with difficulty ascended a high hill, over which the trail 
led ; from its summit I hoped to see our camp-fires ; my 
vision was strained to the utmost, but no friendly smoke 
greeted my longing eyes. The trail lost itself in the 
dim distance, and a long and weary travel was before 



COL. FREMONT SENDS BACK FOR FULLER. 119 

us. Nothing daunted, and inspired by the hope of 
being able to render succor to our friend, we descended 
the mountain and followed the trail. 

It now commenced to snow. "We travelled in this 
manner ten long hours, until we came upon the camp. 

Mr. Egloffstien and self both informed Col. Fremont 
of the circumstance, and we were told that it was im- 
possible to send for Mr. Fuller. 

Overcome with sorrow and disappointment, I fell 
weeping to the ground. In my zeal and anxiety to 
give assistance to my friend, I never for a moment 
thought in what manner it was to be rendered. I had 
forgotten that our few remaining animals were abso- 
lutely necessary to carry the baggage and scientific 
apparatus of the expedition, and that, with a furiously- 
driving snow-storm, it was almost folly to attempt to 
find the trail. 

While we were speaking at our scanty fire of the 
unfortunate fate of our comrade, Col. Fremont came out 
of his lodge, and gave orders that the two best animals 
in camp should be prepared, together with some cooked 
horse-meat. He sent them with Frank Dixon, a Mexi- 
can, back on the trail, to find Mr. Fuller. We supposed 
him to have been at least five miles from camp. 

There was not a dry eye in camp that whole night. 
We sat up anxiously awaiting the appearance of Mr. 
Fuller. Col. Fremont frequently inquired of the guard 
if Mr. Fuller had come in ? 

Day dawned, and cold and cheerless was the prospect. 
There being no signs of our friend, Col. Fremont re- 
marked that it was just what he expected. 

Col. Fremont had allowed his humanity to overcome 
his better judgment. 



120 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

At daylight, Col. Fremont sent out three Delawares 
to find the missing men ; about ten o'clock one of them 
returned with Frank Dixon, and the mules ; Frank had 
lost the trail, he became bewildered in the storm, and 
sank down in the snow, holding on to the mules. He 
was badly frozen, and became weaker every day until 
he got to the settlements. Towards night, the two Dela- 
wares supporting Mr. Fuller, were seen approaching; he 
was found by the Delawares awake, but almost senseless 
from cold and starvation; he was hailed with joy by 
our whole camp. Col. Fremont as well as the rest of us, 
rendered him all the assistance in our power ; I poured 
out the last drop of my alcohol, which I mixed with a 
little water, and administered it to him. His feet were 
frozen black to his ancles ; if he had lived to reach 
the settlements, it is probable he would have had to suf- 
fer amputation of both feet. 

Situated as we were, in the midst, of mountains of 
snow, enervated by starvation and disease, without 
animals to carry us, and a long uncertain distance to 
travel over an unexplored country ; could any blame be 
attached to a commander of an expedition, if he were 
to refuse to send back for a disabled man ? I say, no, 
none whatever. Twenty-seven of our animals had been 
killed for food, and the rest were much reduced, and 
without provender of any kind in view. If this event 
had occurred six days later, there would have been no 
animal strong enough to carry Mr. Fuller into camp. 

But suppose he had been disabled while in camp, and 
unable to proceed, could blame attach to his com- 
rades if he were deserted, and left to die alone ? This 
frightful situation was nearly realized on several oc- 
casions. I again answer, no, not any — the safety of the 



QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. 121 

whole party demanded their immediate extrication 
from the dangers which surrounded them ; every hour, 
every minute, in these mountains of snow, but increased 
their perils; on foot, with almost inaccessible rugged 
mountains of snow to overcome, with no prospects of 
food except what our remaining animals might afford — to 
stop, or remain an indefinite time with a disabled com- 
rade, was certain death to the whole party, without 
benefiting him ; his companions being so weak, that 
they could not carry him along. I made up my mind 
on one occasion, not to leave camp, my exhausted con- 
dition reminded me of the great difficulty and bodily 
pain which I endured, to reach camp the night before. 
I was fully prepared to remain by myself, and await my 
fate. I probably should have done so, but for the fond 
links which bound me to life, exercising a magic influence 
which inspired me with fresh courage, and determination. 
If such had been the case, might not my friends, in the 
excess of their grief have exclaimed, " Alas ! for my 
poor son, who was left by his companions to perish in 
the mountains of snow." It would have been difficult 
to have persuaded my old parents, of the utter impos- 
sibility of preventing it. They would have attached 
cruelty, and neglect, to the whole party, and laid their 
son's death at the door of their leader. 

How is it in war, when the superior force of the enemy 
demands an immediate retreat by the opposing army, 
without permitting time to carry the wounded off the 
field ? How is it with a man who falls overboard during 
a storm, when imminent peril to the vessel and crew 
would follow an attempt to rescue him? The life of 
one must be sacrificed for the safety of the whole. 

6 



122 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Author nearly g ; ves Out— Family Portraits— Fresh Courage— Dangerous Situation- 
Lonely Journey— Darkness— Snow Storm— Arrival at Camp—" Col. Fremont's Tent' 
—Interview with Col. Fremont— '■ Cache "—Men on Foot — Daguerreotype Appara- 
tus buried in the Snow— Sperm ( andles— Men Mounted on Baggage Animals- 
Seveir River Beaver Dams — Modus Operandi of killing Horses for Food — EntraU 
Soup — Hide and Bones Roasted— Influence of Privation on Human Passions. 

After we crossed the Green Piver, the whole party 
were on foot. The continued absence of nutritious food 
made us weaker every day. One of my feet was badly 
frozen, and I walked with much pain and great diffi- 
culty ; on this occasion my lameness increased to such a 
degree, that I was the last man on the trail, and my 
energy and firmness almost deserted me. Alone, dis- 
abled, with no possibility of assistance from mortal man 
I felt that my last hour had come ; I was at the top of 
a mountain of snow, with not a tree to be seen for 
miles. Night approached, and I looked in vain in the 
direction our party had proceeded, for smoke or some 
indication that our camp was near. Naught but a 
desert waste of eternal snow met my anxious gaze — 
faint and almost exhausted, I sat down on the snow- 
bank, my feet resting in the footsteps of those who had 
gone before me. I removed from my pocket the minia- 
tures of my wife and children, to take a last look at 
them. Their dear smiling faces awakened fresh energy, 
I had still something to Live for, my death would bring 



author's enervated condition. 123 

heavy sorrow and grief to those who looked to me alone 
for support ; I determined to try and get to camp, I dared 
nol rest my fatigued body, for to rest was to sleep, and 
sleep was that eternal repose which wakes only in 
another world. Offering up a silent prayer, I prepared 
to proceed. I examined my gun and pistols, so as to be 
prepared if attacked by wolves or Indians, and resumed 
my lonely and desolate journey. As the night came 
on, the cold increased ; and a fearful snow storm blew 
directly in my face, almost blinding me. Bracing 
myself as firmly as I could against the blast, I followed 
the deep trail in the snow, and came into camp about 
ten o'clock at night. It requires a personal experience 
to appreciate the intense mental suffering which 1 
endured that night; it is deeply engraven with bitter 
anguish on my heart, and not even time can obliterate it. 

Col. Fremont was at the camp fire awaiting my arri- 
val. He said he knew I was badly off, but felt certain 
I would come in, although he did not expect me for an 
hour. 

My haggard appearance sufficiently indicated what I 
suffered. As I stood by the fire warming my frozen 
limbs, Col. Fremont put out his hand and touched my 
breast, giving me a slight push ; I immediately threw 
back my foot to keep myself from falling. Col. Fremont 
laughed at me and remarked that I had not "half given 
out," any man who could act as I did on the occasion, 
was good for many more miles of travel. He went into 
his tent, and after my supper of horse soup, he sent for 
me, and then told me why he played this little joke 
on me ; it was to prevent my telling my sufferings 
to the men ; he saw I had a great deal to say, and that 
no good would result from my communicating it. He 



124 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

reviewed our situation, and the enervated condition of 
the men, our future prospects of getting into settlements, 
and the necessity there was for mutual encouragement, 
instead of vain regrets, and despondency ; the difficulties 
were to be met, and it depended on ourselves, whether 
we should return to our families, or perish on the moun- 
tains ; he bade me good night, telling me that in the 
morning he would endeavor to make some arrangements 
to mount the men. 

The next day, he called the men together and told 
them that he had determined to " cache " all the super- 
fluous baggage of the camp, and mount the men on the 
baggage animals, as a last resource. Nothing was to be 
retained but the actual clothing necessary to protect us 
from the inclemency of the weather. 

A place was prepared in the snow, our large buffalo 
lodge laid out, and all the pack saddles, bales of cloth 
and blankets, the travelling bags, and extra clotles of 
the men, my daguerreotype boxes, containing besides, 
several valuable scientific intruments, and everything 
that could possibly be spared, together with the surplus 
gunpowder and lead, were placed in it, and care- 
fully covered up with snow, and then quantities of brush 
to protect it from the Indians. I previously took out six 
sperm candles from my boxes, and gave them to 
Lee, the Colonel's servant, in charge; they were subse- 
quently found most useful. A main station was made 
at this place, so as to be able to find it if occasion de- 
manded that w r e should send for them. 

The raon now were all mounted ; a large mule was allot- 
ted to me, and we again started, rejoicing in having 
animals to carry us. After this, every horse or mule 
that gave out, placed a man on foot without the possi- 



MANNER OF DIVIDING nORSE MEAT. 125 

bility of procuring others, and it was necessary in 
consequence of the absence of grass, to allow the 
mules to travel as light as possible; we therefore re- 
lieved them frequently by walking as much as we were 
able. 

BEAVER DAMS ON THE SEVEER RP7ER. 

"When we got to the crossing of the Seveir River, I 
was almost certain I was within the precincts of civili- 
zation. I saw numberless large trees cut down near the 
roots, appearing to have been hewn with an axe ; some 
of them laid directly across the river ; in one place 
there wevo three trees lying parallel with each other, 
evidently intended, I supposed, as a bridge across it; 
at this spot, the stream was not more than thirty 
feet wide ; no other indication of civilization being 
around us, I supposed we occupied an old camping ground 
of Indians. I was doomed to disappointment again; 
the beavers had constructed the dams, and cut down the 
trees, and not until I had closely inspected the work, 
could I believe that they were not the work of men. 

MANNER OF DIVIDING THE HORSE MEAT. 

"When an animal gave out, he was shot down by the 
Indians, who immediately cut his throat, and saved the 
blood in our camp kettle. (The blood I never partook 
of.) The animal was divided into twenty-two parts as 
follows: — Two for Col. Fremont and Lee, his cook; 
ten for the Delaware camp, and ten for ours. Col. 
Fremont hitherto had messed with his officers ; at 
this time he requested that we should excuse him, as it 



126 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

gave him pain, and called to mind the horrible scenes 
which had been enacted during his last expedition — he 
could not see his officers obliged to partake of such dis- 
gusting food. 

The rule adopted was, that one animal should serve 
for six meals for the whole party. 

If one gave out in the meantime, of course it was an 
exception, but otherwise on no consideration was an 
animal to be slaughtered, for every one that was killed 
placed one man on foot, and limited our chance of 
escape from our present situation. 

If the men chose to eat up their six meals in one day, 
they would have to go without until the time arrived for 
killing another. 

It frequently happened that the white camp was 
without food from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, while 
Col. Fremont and the Delawares always had a meal. 

The latter religiously abstained from encroaching on 
the portion allotted for another meal while many men 
of our camp, I may say all of them, not content with 
their daily portion, would, to satisfy the cravings of 
hunger, surreptitiously purloin from the pile of meat at 
different times, sundry pieces thus depriving themselves 
of each other's allowance. 

The entrails of the horse were well shaken (for we 
had no water to wash them in) and boiled with snow, 
producing a highly flavored soup, peculiar to itself, and 
readily distinguished from the various preparations of 
the celebrated " Ude" of gastronomic memory. The 
hide was roasted so as to burn the hair and make it crisp, 
the hoofs and shins were disposed of by regular rota- 
tion. 

Our work was never done. When we got to camp 



FIFTY DATS ON HORSE MEAT. 127 

all the men off duty, were dispatched to gather firewood 
to burn during the night. One might be seen with a de- 
ca} T ed trunk on his shoulder, while a half dozen others 
were using their combined efforts to bring into camp 
some dried tree. 

Col. Fremont at times joined the men in this duty — 
when it was peculiarly difficult in procuring the neces- 
sary material to prevent us from freezing while we were 
in camp. 

One night we camped without wood, the country 
around was a waste of snow ; we laid down in our blank- 
ets, and slept contentedly till morning, and re-com- 
menced our journey without any breakfast. 

I have been awakened to go on " guard" in the morn- 
ing watch, when, looking around me, my companions ap- 
peared like so many graves, covered with from eight to 
ten inches of snow. 

Some of our animals would eat the snow, others would 
not. To keep them alive we had to melt snow in camp 
kettles and give it them to drink, which process was at- 
tended with much fatigue and trouble. 

We lived on horse meat fifty days. The passions of 
the men were so disturbed by their privations, that they 
were not satisfied with the cook's division of the hide ; 
but one man turned his back, while another asked him 
who was to have this piece, and that, and so on, until 
all was divided, and the same j)rocess was gone through 
with in the sharing of the delectable horse soup. 



128 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXL 

Unsuccessful Attempt to Force a Passage in the Mountains — Delawares sent out to 
Explore — Their Return — Col. Fremont, Capt. Wolff, and Solomon in Council — 
Unfavorable Report of Capt. Wolff — Col. Fremont's Determination— Astronomical 
Observations at Midnight — Col. Fremont's Correctness and Skill Illustrated — Tre- 
mendous Mountains of Snow— Successful Ascent on Foot, without Shoes or Mocca- 
sins — Tribute to the Genius of Fremont — Col. Fremont's Lodge at Meal-Time — Mr. 
Oliver Fuller's Death — Sorrow of his Companions — His Last Hours — His Virtues — 
Indian Camp — Arrival at Parowan — Burial of Mr. Fuller — Author's Physical Condi- 
tion — Mormon Sympathies — Mr. Heap and his Wives — Mormon Hospitality. 

Four days before we entered the Little Salt Lake Val- 
ley, we were surrounded by very deep snows ; but as 
it was necessary to proceed, the whole party started, to 
penetrate through what appeared to be a pass, on the 
Warsatch Mountains. The opening to this depression 
was favorable, and we continued our journey, until the 
mountains seemed to close around us, the snow in the 
canon got deeper, and further progress on our present 
course was impossible. 

It was during this night, while encamped in this deso- 
late spot, that Col. Fremont called a council of Capt. 
Wolff and Solomon of the Delawares — they had been sent 
by Col. Fremont to survey the canon, and surrounding 
mountains, to see if a passage could be forced. On their 
return, this council was held ; Capt. Wolff reported it 
impossible to proceed, as the animals sank over their 
heads in snow, and he could see no passage out. The 
mountains which intercepted our path, w r ere covered 



ool. Fremont's determination. 129 

with snow four feet deep. The ascent bore an angle of 
forty -five degrees, and was at least one thousand feet 
from base to summit. Over this, Captain Wolff said 
it was also impossible to go. "That is not the point," 
replied Col. Fremont, " we must cross, the question is, 
which is most practicable — and how we can do it." 

I was acting as assistant astronomer at this time. After 
the council, Col. Fremont told me there would be an oc- 
cultation that night, and he wanted me to assist in making 
observations. I selected a level spot on the snow, and 
prepared the artificial horizon. The thermometer indi- 
cated a very great degree of cold ; and standing almost 
up to our middle in snow, Col. Fremont remained for 
hours making observations, first with one star, then with 
another, until the occupation took place. Our lantern 
was illuminated with a piece of sperm candle, which I 
saved from my pandora box, before we buried it ; of 
my six sperm candles this was the last one. I take 
some praise to myself for providing some articles 
which were found most necessary. These candles, for 
instance, I produced when they were most required, 
and Col. Fremont little thought where they were pro- 
cured. 

The next morning, Col. Fremont told me that Paro- 
wan, a small settlement of Mormons, forty rods square, 
in the Little Salt Lake Valley, was distant so many 
miles in a certain direction, immediately over this 
great mountain of snow ; that in three days he hoped 
to be in the settlement, and that he intended to go over 
tlic mountain, at all hazards. 

We commenced the ascent of this tremendous moun- 
tain, covered as it were, with an icy pall of death, CoL 
Fremont leading and breaking a path ; the ascent was so 

6* ^ 



130 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

steep and difficult, that it was impossible to keep on our 
animals ; consequently, we had to lead them, and travel 
on foot — each man placed his foot in the tracks of the 
one that preceded him ; the snow was up to the bellies of 
the animals. In this manner, alternately toiling and rest- 
ing, we reached the summit, over which our Delawares, 
who were accustomed to mountain travel, would not of 
themselves have ventured. When I surveyed the dis- 
tance, I saw nothing but continued ranges of mountains of 
everlasting snow, and for the first time, my heart failed 
me — not that I had lost confidence in our noble leader, 
but that I felt myself physically unable to overcome 
the difficulties which appeared before me, and Capt. 
"Wolff himself told me, that he did not think we could 
force a passage. We none of us had shoes, boots it 
was impossible to wear. Some of the men had raw 
hide strapped round their feet, while others were half 
covered with worn out stockings and moccasins ; Col. 
Fremont's moccasins were worn out, and lie was no 
better off than any of us. 

After we were all rested, Col. Fremont took out his 
pocket compass, and pointing with his hand in a certain 
direction, commenced the descent. I could see no mode 
of extrication, but silently followed the party, winding 
round the base of one hill, over the side of another, 
through defiles, and, to all appearance, impassable 
canons, until the mountains, which were perfectly bare 
of vegetation, gradually became interspersed with trees. 
Every half hour, a new snow scape presented itself, and 
as we overcame each separate mountain, the trees in- 
creased in number. 

By noon, we were in a defile of the mountains, 
through which was a dry bed of a creek. We followed 



col. fkemont's skill in astronomy. 131 

its winding course, and camped at abont two o'clock in 
a valley, with plenty of grass. Deer tracks were visible 
over the snow, which gave fresh life to the men. The 
Dela wares sallied out to rind some. Col. Fremont 
promised them, as an incentive to renewed exertions, 
that he would present to the successful hunter, who 
brought in a deer, a superior rifle. 

They were out several hours, and Weluchas was seen 
approaching, with a fine buck across his saddle. 

He received his rew r ard, and we again participated in 
a dish of wdiolesome food. 

We had now triumphantly overcome the immense 
mountain, which I do not believe human foot, whether 
civilized or Indian, had ever before attempted, from its 
inaccessibility; and on the very day and hour previously 
indicated by Col. Fremont, he conducted us to the small 
settlement of Parowan, in Little Salt Lake Valley, which 
could not be distinguished two miles off, thus proving 
himself a most correct astronomer and geometrician. . 

Here was no chance work — no guessing — for a devia- 
tion of one mile, either way, from the true course, "would 
have plunged the whole party into certain destruction. 
An island at sea may be seen for forty miles ; a navi- 
gator makes his calculations, and sails in the direction 
of the land, which oftentimes extends many miles ; 
when he sees the land, he directs his course to that por- 
tion of it where he is bound ; he may have been fifty 
miles out of his way, but the well-known land being 
visible from a great distance, he changes his course 
until he arrives safely in port. 

Not so with a winter travel over trackless mountains 
of eternal snow, across a continent of such immense 



132 TKAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

limits, suffering the privations of cold and hunger, and 
enervated by disease. 

It seems as if Col. Fremont had been endowed with 
supernatural powers of vision, and that he penetrated 
with his keen and powerful eye through the limits of 
space, and saw the goal to which all his powers had 
been concentrated to reach. It was a feat of scientific 
correctness, probably without comparison in the records 
of the past. His firmness of purpose, determination of 
character, and confidence in his own powers, exer- 
cised under such extraordinary circumstances, alone 
enabled him, successfully, to combat the combination 
of untoward and unforeseen difficulties which sur- 
rounded him, and momentarily threatened the annihila- 
tion of his whole party. 

It is worthy of remark, and goes to show the differ- 
ence between a person " to the manor born," and one 
who has " acquired it by purchase." That in all the 
varied scenes of vicissitude, of suffering and excitement, 
from various causes, during a voyage when the natural 
character of a man is sure to be developed, Col. Fre- 
mont never forgot he was a gentleman ; not an oath, 
no boisterous ebullutions of temper, when, heaven 
knows, he had enough to excite it, from the continued 
blunders of the men. Calmly and collectedly, he gave 
his orders, and they were invariably fulfilled to the 
utmost of the men's abilities. To the minds of some 
men, excited by starvation and cold, the request of an 
officer is often misconstrued into a command, and resis- 
tance follows as a natural consequence ; but in no 
instance was a slight request of his received with any- 
thing but the promptest obedience. He never wished 



BILL OF FAEE. 133 

Lis officers or men to undertake duties which he did not 
readily share. When we were reduced to rations of 
dried horse meat, and lie took his scanty meal by him- 
self, he was, I am sure, actuated by the desire to allow 
his companions free speech, during meal time ; any 
animadversion on the abject manner in which we were 
constrained to live would, no doubt, have vibrated on 
his sensitive feelings, and to prevent the occurrence of 
such a thing, he, as it were, banished himself to the 
loneliness of his own lodge. 

Col. Fremont's lodge, at meal time, when we 
had good, wholesome buffalo and deer meat pre- 
sented quite a picturesque appearance. A fire was 
always burning in the centre ; around it cedar bushes 
were strewn on which buffalo robes were placed. Sit- 
ting around, all of us on our hams, cross-legged, with our 
tin plates and cups at each side of us, we aw T aited pa- 
tiently the entrance of our several courses ; first came the 
camp kettle, with buffalo soup, thickened with meat- 
biscuit, our respective tin plates were filled and replen- 
ished as often as required. Then came the roast or 
fry, and sometimes both ; the roast was served on sticks, 
one end of which was stuck in the ground, from it we 
each in rotation cut off a piece. Then the fried venison. 
In those days we lived well, and I always looked for- 
ward to this social gathering, as the happiest and most 
intellectually spent hour during the day. Col. Fremont 
would often entertain us with his adventures on differ- 
ent expeditions ; and we each tried to make ourselves 
agreeable. 

Although on the mountains, and away from civiliza- 
tion, Col. Fremont's lodge was sacred from all and every 
thing that was immodest, light or trivial ; each and all 



134 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES EST THE FAR WEST. 

of us entertained the highest regard for him. The 
greatest etiquette and deference were always paid to 
him 4 although he never ostensibly required it. Yet his 
reserved and unexceptionable deportment, demanded 
from us the same respect with which w T e were always 
treated, and which we ever took pleasure in recipro- 
cating. 

MR. FULLER'S DEATH. 

The death of Mr Fuller filled our camp with deep 
gloom ; almost at the very hour he passed away, succor 
was at hand. Our party was met by some Utah 
Indians, under the chieftainship of Amnion, a brother 
of the celebrated Wakara, (anglicized Walker) who con- 
ducted us into the camp on Red Creek Canon. At 
this spot our camp was informed by Mr. Egloffstien, 
that our companion in joy and in sorrow, was left to 
sleep his last sleep on tb^e snows. The announcement 
took some of us by surprise, although I was prepared 
for his death at any moment. I assisted him on his 
mule that morning, and roasted the prickles from some 
cactus leaves, which we dug from the snow, for his 
breakfast ; he told me that he was sure he would not 
survive, and did not want to leave camp. 

A journey like the ouo we had passed through, was 
calculated to expose the thorough character of indivi- 
duals ; if there were any imperfections, they were sure 
to be developed. My friend, Oliver Fuller, passed 
through the trials of that ordeal victoriously. No vice, 
or evil propensity made any part of his character. His 
disposition was mild and amiable, and generous to a 
fault. Slow to take offence, yet firm and courageous as 

4* 



TRIBUTE TO HK. FULLEK. 135 

a lion ; lie bore his trials without a murmur, and per- 
formed his duties as assistant astronomer and engineer 
to the hour he was stricken down. After he was unable 
to walk, he received the assistance of every man in 
camp. 

His companions who were suffering- dreadfully, though 
not to such an imminent degree, voluntarily deprived 
themselves of a portion of their small rations of horse 
meat to increase his meal, as he seemed to require more 
sustenance than the rest of us. His death was deeply 
regretted. 

Not having any instruments by which a grave could 
be dug in the frozen ground, Col. Fremont awaited his 
arrival at Parowan, from which place he sent out sev- 
eral men to perform the last sad duties to our lamented 
friend. 

I was riding side by side with Egloffstien after Mr. 
Fuller's death, sad and dejected. Turning my eyes on 
the waste of snow before me, I remarked to my com- 
panion that I thought we had struck a travelled road. 
He shook his head despondinglv, replying " that the 
marks I observed, were the trails from Col. Fremont's 
lodge poles." Feeling satisfied that I saw certain indi- 
cations, I stopped my mule, and with very great diffi- 
culty alighted, and thrust my hand into the snow, when 
to my great delight I distinctly felt the ruts caused by 
wagon wheels. I was then perfectly staisfied that we 
were ''saved!" The great revulsion of feeling from 
intense despair to a reasonable hope, is impossible to be 
described ; from that moment, however, my strength 
perceptibly left me, and I felt myself gradually breaking 
up. The nearer I approached the settlement, the less 
energy I had at my command ; and I felt so totally 



136 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES EST THE FAR WEST. 

incapable of continuing, that I told Col. Fremont, half 
an hour before we reached Parowan, that. he would 
have to leave me there ; when I was actually in the 
town, and surrounded with white men, women and 
children, paroxysms of tears followed each other, and I 
fell down on the snow perfectly overcome. 

I was conducted by a Mr. Heap to his dwelling, 
where I was treated hospitably. I was mistaken for an 
Indian by the people of Parowan. My hair was long, 
and had not known a comb for a month, my face was 
unwashed, and ground in with the collected dirt of a 
similar period. Emaciated to a degree, my eyes sunken, 
and clothes all torn into tatters from hunting our ani- 
mals through the brush. My hands were in a dreadful 
state ; my fingers were frost-bitten, and split at every 
joint ; and suffering at the same time from diarrhoea, and 
symptoms of scurvy, which broke out on me at Salt 
Lake City afterwards. I was in a situation truly to be 
pitied, and I do not wonder that the sympathies of the 
Mormons were excited in our favor, for my personal 
appearance being but a reflection of the whole party, 
we were indeed legitimate subjects for the exercise of 
the finer feelings of nature. When I entered Mr. 
Heap's house I saw three beautiful children. I covered 
my eyes and wept for joy to think I might yet be re- 
stored to embrace my own. 

During the day I submitted to the operation of hav- 
*ing my face and hands washed, and my hair cut and 
combed. Our combs might have been lost, and this 
would account for the condition of our hair, but how 
about the dirty faces? Alas, we had no water, nothing 
but frozen snow; and although we laved our faces with 
it, we had no towels to wipe with, and the dirt dried in. 



ME. HEAP AND HIS THREE WIVES. 13 T 

Mr. Heap was the first Mormon I ever spoke to, and 
although I had heard and read of them, I never contem- 
plated realizing the fact that I would have occasion 
to be indebted to Mormons for much kindness and 
attention, and be thrown entirely among them for 
months. 

It was hinted to me that Mr. Heap had two wives ; 
I saw two matrons in his house, both performing to inter- 1 
esting infants the duties of maternity; but I could 
hardly realize the fact that two wives could be recon- 
ciled to live together in one house. I asked Mr. Heap 
if both these ladies were his wives, he told me they 
were. On conversing with them subsequently, I dis- 
covered that they were sisters, and that there originally 
were three sets of children ; one mother was deceased, 
and she was also a sister. Mr. Heap had married 
three sisters, and there were living children from them 
all. I thought of that command in the bible, — "Thou 
shalt not take a wife's sister, to vex her." But it was 
no business of mine to discuss theology or morality with 
them — they thought it right. 

These two females performed all the duties which de- 
volve on a country home. One of them milked the cow, 
churned the butter, and baked the bread ; while the 
other cared for the children, attended to the making, 
washing, and ironing of the clothes. Mr. Heap was an 
Englishman, and his wives were also natives of London. 
Mr. Heap was a shoemaker by trade, and a preacher 
by divine inspiration. Mammon was the god he wor- 
shipped, for he gave away nothing without an equiva- 
lent — not even a piece of old cloth to line a pair of 
moccasins with. His wives differed from him in this 
respect, daily they furnished " Shirt-cup," the "Utah," 



138 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

with everything edible, for numbers of miserable Indians 
who surrounded their door. The eldest in particular, 
was a kind-hearted woman ; they all, however, showed 
me as much attention as they could afford, for one 
dollar and fifty cents a day, which amount Col. Fremont 
paid for my board while with them, a period of fourteen 
days. 



60J0TTRN AT PAE0WAN. 139 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Sojourn at Parowan — Colonel Fremont refits his Expedition — Illness of the Author — 
His Inabillity to Proceed— Takes Leave of Col. Fremont — Mr. Egloffstien and the 
Author leave to go to Great Salt Lake City in a Wagon — Col. Fremont's Departure — 
Mormons for Conference — Arrival at Salt Lake City — Massacre of Capt. Gunnison — 
Interview with Lieut. Beckwith— Mr. Egloffstien appointed Topographical Engi- 
neer — Painting Materials — Kinkead and Livingston — Brigham Young — Governor's 
Residence — Apology for Mormonism among the Masses — Their previous Ignorance of 
the Practice of Polygamy. 

I remained from the Stli to the 21st February at Pa- 
rowan. I was very ill during the whole time ; I was so 
much enervated by diarrhoea, that my physician advised 
me not to accompany the expedition ; the exertion of 
riding on horseback would have completely prostrated 
me, my digestive organs were so much weakened, and 
impaired, by the irregular living on horse meat, without 
salt or vegetables, that I was fearful that I should never 
recover. Col. Fremont was very anxious for me to con- 
tinue, but yielded to the necessity of my remaining; he 
supplied me with means to reach home, and on the same 
day lie bade me farewell, to continue his journey over 
the Sierra Nevada, I left for great Salt Lake City, in a 
wagon belonging to one of a large company of Mormons. 
who were on their way to " Conference." I was so weak, 
that I had to be lifted in and out like a child. To the 
kind attentions of Mr. Henry Lunt, President of Cedar 
City, Coal Creek, ami his lady, I was indebted for some 
necessaries, viz. — sugar, tea and coffee, which it was im- 



140 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAB WEST. 

possible to purchase ; they also offered me the use of 
their wagon, which was better adapted to an invalid, 
than the one I occupied. Mr. Egloffstien also accom- 
panied me ; his physical condition being similar to my 
own, he could not continue with Col. Fremont ; he 
successfully managed, notwithstanding his illness, to 
make topographical notes all the way to Great Salt 
Lake City, a distance of three hundred miles, which 
we accomplished in ten days, passing through all 
the different Mormon settlements on the road, par- 
ticulars of which I shall give in my journal, from 
Salt Lake City. We arrived at Great Salt Lake City 
on the night of the 1st of March 1851, and took lodg- 
ings at Blair's hotel ; in the morning I learned that 
Lieut. Beckwith and Captain Morris, with the rem- 
nant of Captain Gunnison's expedition, were hyber- 
nating in the city. I called on Lieut. Beckwith, 
who invited me and my friend to mess at their table, 
at E. T. Benson's, one of the Mormon apostles, which 
I gladly accepted, and that night I found myself once 
more associating with intelligent gentlemen. The arri- 
val of my friend Egloffstein, proved very timely; the 
massacre of the lamented Captain Gunnison and his 
officers, deprived Lieut. Beckwith of the services of 
their topographical engineer, to which situation Mr. 
Egloffstein w T as immediately appointed, and Lieut. 
Beckwith generously invited me to accompany the 
expedition, free of any expense, which I respectfully 
declined, as I intended to reach California by the 
Southern route, over the trail of Colonel Fremont, 
in 1813. To the kindness of Lieut. Beckwith 1 was 
also indebted for a supply of painting materials, which 
I could not have procured elsewhere, and by the use of 



SALT LAKE CITY. 141 

which, I was enabled to successfully" prosecute ray 
profession, during my residence in that city. 

Messrs. Kincaid and Livingston, cashed Col. Fremont's 
bills on California, without any discount, and contribu- 
ted many luxuries which were not on sale, and I feel 
deeply grateful to them for their disinterested friendship. 
After I was comfortably settled, I called on Governor 
Young, and was received by him with marked attention. 
He tendered me the use of all his philosophical instru- 
ments and access to a large and valuable library. 

The court-house of the city of the Great Salt Lake 
lies in 40° 45' 44" K Lat. Ill 26' 31" W. Longitude, 
and the city covers an area of four square miles, it is 
laid out at right angles. The principal business streets 
run due north and south, a delicious stream of water 
flows through the centre of the city, this is subdivided 
into murmuring rivulets on either side of all the streets. 
The water coming directly from the mountains, is always 
pure and fresh, affording this most useful element in 
any quantity, and within reach of every one, besides 
creating a healthful influence in the city. Cotton-wood 
trees grow on the main stream, and saplings had just 
been planted while I was there, on the sides of the 
streets. Most of the dwelling houses are built a little 
distance from the side-walk, and to each dwelling is ap- 
propriated an acre and a quarter of ground, for garden- 
ing purposes. 

Salt Lake Valley runs east and west, and the city is 
immediately at the base of a high range of mountains. 
An adobe wall, twelve feet high, six feet at the base, 
tapering upwards to 2-J feet, entirely surrounds the city, 
enclosing an immense area of ground for pasturage, etc., 
thus protecting the people aud cattle fr-^u the aggressions 



142 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

of Indians. The Timpanagos mountains are near the 
city: "Emigration Canon" is the gate (a low de- 
pression in the mountains) through which the great tide 
of emigration flows into the Valley of Great Salt Lake. 

The River Jordan runs through the valley and. 
empties into Great Salt Lake. The city is thirty miles 
from the Lake, and the valley is entirely surrounded 
with high mountains topped with snow, winter and 
summer. 

The governor's residence, a large wooden building of 
sufficient capacity to contain his extensive family — nine- 
teen wives and thirty-three children, was nearly finished. 
I made a daguerreotype view of it, and also a drawing. 

The court house is a large square building, on the 
east side, opposite the Temple square. 

The post office occupies the corner on the south side. 

The Tabernacle, an unpretending one story building, 
occupies a portion of the Temple square. 

The Temple is in course of building — the foundation 
is laid — and I was allowed to see the plan projected by 
a Mr. Angell, who by inspiration has succeeded in pro- 
ducing an exact model of the one used by the Mel- 
chizedek Priesthood, in older times. 

The theatre, a well built modern building, is opposite 
to the governor's house on the north, and is the property 
of the church as are all the public buildings. I may 
say all the real estate in the valley is the property of 
the church, for proprietors have only an interest in 
property so long as they are members of the Mormon 
Church, and reside in the valley. The moment they 
leave or apostatize, they are obliged to abandon their 
property, and are precluded from selling it, or if they 
do give the bill of sale it is not valid — it is not tenable 



MORALITY OF THE MORMONS. 143 

by the purchaser. This arrangement was proposed by 
the governor and council, at the conference which took 
place during my residence among them in 1854, and 
thousands of property holders subsequently deeded their 
houses and lands to the church, in perpetuity. 

Under the operation of this law, nobody but Mor- 
mons can hold property in Great Salt Lake City. There 
are numbers of citizens who are not Mormons, who rent 
properties ; but there is no property for sale — a most 
politic course on the part of the Mormons — for in case 
of a railroad being established between the two oceans, 
Great Salt Lake City must be the half way stopping 
place, and the city will be kept purified from taverns 
and grog shops at every corner of the street. Another 
city will have to be built some distance from them, for 
they have determined to keep themselves distinct from 
the vices of civilization. During a residence of ten 
weeks in Great Salt Lake City, and my observations in 
all their various settlements, amongst a homogeneous 
population of over seventy-five thousand inhabitants, it 
is worthy of record, that I never heard any obscene or 
improper language ; never saw a man drunk ; never 
had my attention called to the exhibition of vice of any 
sort. There are no gambling houses, grog shops, or 
buildings of ill fame, in all their settlements. They 
preach morality in their churches and from their stands, 
and what is as strange as it is true, the people practise 
it, and religiously believe their salvation depends on ful- 
filling the behests of the religion they have adopted. 

The masses are sincere in their belief, if they are in- 
credulous, and have been deceived by their leaders, the 
sin, if any, rests on them. I firmly believe the people 
to be honest, and imbued with true religious feelings, — 



144: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

and when we take into consideration their general char- 
acter previously, we cannot but believe in their sin- 
cerity. Nine-tenths of this vast population are the 
peasantry of Scotland, England and Wales, originally 
brought up with religious feelings at Protestant parish 
churches. I observed no Catholic proselytes. They 
have been induced to emigrate, by the offers of the Mor- 
mon missionaries to take them free of expense, to their 
land flowing with milk and honey, where, they are told, 
the Protestant Christian religion is inculcated in all 
its purity, and where a farm and house are bestowed 
gratuitously upon each family. Seduced by this inde- 
pendence from the state of poverty which surrounds 
them at home, they take advantage of the opportunity 
and are baptized into the faith of the "latter day 
saints," and it is only after their arrival in the Valley 
that the spiritual wife s} T stem is even mentioned to them. 
Thousands of families are now in Utah who are as much 
horrified at the name of polygamy, as the most carefully 
educated in the enlightened circles of Europe and 
America. More than two-thirds of this population (at 
least, this is the ratio of my experience) cannot read or 
write, and they place implicit faith in their leaders, who, 
in a pecuniary point of view, have fulfilled their promise ; 
each and all of them are comfortably provided with land 
and tenements. The first year they, of course, suffer pri- 
vations, until they build their houses and reap their 
crops, yet all their necessities in the meantime are pro- 
vided for by the church, and in a social point of view, 
they are much happier than they could ever hope to 
have been at their native homes. From being tenants 
at will of an imperious and exacting landlord, they sud- 
denly become land holders, in their own right — free 



APOLOGY FOE MORMONISM. 145 

men, living on free soil, under a free and enlightened 
government. 

Their religious teachers of Mormonisra, preach to 
them, as they call it, " Christianity in its purity." With 
their perfect right to imbibe new religious ideas, I have 
no wish to interfere, nor has any one. All religions are 
tolerated, or ought to be, in the United States, and I 
offer these remarks as an apology for the masses of 
honest men, many of whom have personally told me, 
that they were ignorant of the practice of polygamy 
before their arrival in the Valley, and surrounded as 
they are, by hostile tribes of Indians, and almost unsur- 
mountable mountains of snow, they are precluded from 
returning home, but live among themselves, practicing 
as well as they know how, the strict principles of virtue 
and morality. 



146 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



Governor Brighain Young — Author's Views on Polygamy — Baptismal Ceremony — Doc- 
trines and Covenants. 



I received a good deal of marked attention from his 
excellency, Governor Young ; be often called for me to 
take a drive in his carriage, and invited me to come 
and live with him, during the time I sojourned there. 
This invitation I refused, as I wished to be entirely in- 
dependent to make observations. I told Brigham Young 
that I was making notes, with a view to publish them. 
He replied, " Only publish ' facts,' and you may publish 
as many as you please." I shall, in the succeeding 
chapters, give personal relations of facts, with altera- 
tions of names only, not wishing to bring the real actors 
before the public. I offer them to show up the abuses 
which a polygamous life must be subjected to, when 
human passions are allowed free scope, and not subject 
to laws, either social or moral. I hope to live to see a 
more wholesome feeling, in this respect, among the 
leaders of the Mormon Church. A continuation of their 
present practice must inevitably lead to confusion. 

CEREMONY OF BAPTISM. 

March 30th.-— The weather is very cold, and snow 
lies on the ground to the depth of six inches. 



CEREMONY OF BAPTISM. 147 

A stream of living water, twelve feet wide, fresh from 
the mountains, runs along between the sidewalk and 
the road — the Temple Block. Seeing a crowd assem- 
bled, I approached the spot, and found twelve persons, 
some of whom had already undergone the ceremony of 
baptism, and others patiently awaiting. The first im- 
mersion I saw was of a lady about 18 years of age. The 
priest who officiated, was standing up to his waist in 
the stream, with his coat off, and his sleeves rolled up 
to his elbows. The lady was handed in, and I noticed 
the shock on her system which a sudden plunge into 
cold freezing water must naturally have produced. The 
baptizer placing one hand on her back, the other on her 
head, repeated the following words: "I am commis- 
sioned by Jesus Christ to baptize you, in the name of 
the Father, and Son, and of the Holy Ghost. Amen." 

He then pushed her over on her back, allowing the 
water to cover her. She struggled to get out of the 
water, but her husband remarked that the whole of her 
head had not been submerged, and insisted that "his 
wife should be properly baptized." She was conse- 
quently dipped effectually a second time, and the poor 
woman finally made her escape, almost frozen. 

The next subject was an old lady of seventy-five 
years. She tottered into the stream by the aid of her 
crutch, and underwent the same ceremony. Query : 
would persons submit to those extraordinary tests if 
they did not possess faith? 

The third person was a young man of about twenty 
years, with a calm, placid countenance. He underwent 
the operation without flinching. His face was the im- 
personation of faith and purify. I should have liked to 
have painted him as a study for a " St. John." They 



148 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

went each on their respective ways, many of them, I 

dare say, with the seeds of consumption sown at this 

moment, fully determined to live a life of piety and 

virtue. 

* * * * * * 

The men, after baptism, are elders, and are empow- 
ered to perform the ceremony upon others. They wear 
an under-garment with distinctive marks upon it, in 
imitation of the Jews, "who all wear fringes on the 
borders of their garments, that they may look upon 
them and remember the commandments of the Lord to 
do them." — Deuteronomy. 

There are two priesthoods in the Mormon Church : 
the Melchizedek and the Aaronic, including the Leviti- 
cal. The office of an elder comes under the Melchize- 
dek priesthood. It holds the right of presidency, and 
has power over all the offices in the Church, in all ages 
of the world, to administer in spiritual things, and has 
a right to officiate in all offices of the Church. 

The second priesthood is called the Aaronic, because 
it was conferred upon Aaron and his seed, throughout 
all their generations. It is secondary to the Melchize- 
dek, and has power to administer outward ordinances. 

The bishopric is the presidency of this priesthood, 
and holds the keys or authority of the same. 

No man has a right to this office, to hold the keys of 
this priesthood, except he be a literal descendant of 
Aaron. But, as a high priest of the Melchizedek 
priesthood, he has authority to officiate in the office of 
bishop, when no literal descendant of Aaron can be 
found — provided he is called, set apart, and ordained by 
the presidency of the Melchizedek priesthood. 

The power and authority of the higher, or Melchize- 



POLITY OF THK MOKMON CHURCH. 1 !9 

dek, is to hold the keys of all the spiritual blessings 
of the church — to have the privilege of receiving the 
mysteries of the kingdom of heaven — to have the 
heavens opened unto them — to commune with the gene- 
ral assembly and church of the first born, and to enjoy 
the communion and presence of God, the Father, and 
Jesus, the Mediator of the New Covenant. 

The power of the Aaronic priesthood, is to hold the 
keys of the ministering angels — to administer outward 
ordinances — the letter of the Gospel — the baptism of 
repentance, for the remission of sins, agreeable to the 
covenants and commandments. 

Of necessity, there are presidents growing out of, or 
appointed from among, those who are ordained to the 
several offices in these two priesthoods of the Melchize- 
dek. 

Three presiding high priests, chosen by the body, 
appointed, ordained and upheld, by the confidence, 
faith and prayer of the church, these form a quorum of 
the presidency. There are also twelve apostles, or tra- 
velling counsellors, especial witnesses of the name of 
Christ, in all the world ; thus differing from other offices 
in the church, in the duties of their calling. They also 
form a quorum equal in authority, to the " three presi- 
dents." 

The " seventy," are also called to preach the Gospel, 
and to be the especial witnesses unto the Gentiles, and 
in all the world, thus differing from other officers in the 
church, in the duties of their calling. They also form 
a quorum, equal in authority to the "twelve apostles," 
and the " three presidents." 

Every decision made by either of these quorums, 



150 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

must be by the unanimous voice of the same — that is, 
every member in each quorum must be agreed to its 
decisions, in order to make their decisions of the same 
power or validity, one with the other : a majority may 
form a quorum, when circumstances render it impossible 
to be otherwise. These decisions are to be made in 
righteousness, in holiness and lowliness of heart, meek- 
ness and long suffering, and in faith, virtue, and know- 
ledge, temperance, patience, godliness, brotherly-kind- 
ness and charity. 

In case of an unrighteous decision, it must be brought 
before a convention of the several quorums, which con- 
stitute the spiritual authorities of the church — otherwise 
there is no appeal. 

The Gospel is first to be preached unto the Gentiles, 
secondly, to the Jews. 

If a president of the high priesthood transgress, he 
shall be tried before twelve counsellors of that body, 
and their decision concerning him shall be bind- 
ing. Thus none shall be exempted from the justice, and 
the laws of God, that all things may be done according 
to truth and righteousnes. The duty of the President 
(Brigham Young), is to preside over the whole church, 
and to be like Moses. Behold here is wisdom ! to be a 
seer — a revelator — a translator — and a prophet — having 
all the gifts of God, which he bestows upon the head of 
the Church. 

These form a principal part of the ecclesiastical polity 
of the Mormon Church of latter day saints. 

The above are extracts from the " doctrines and 
covenants " of the Mormons. 

Polygamy is practised to very great extent among 



authok's views on polygamy. 151 

the high-priests and officers of the church. There are 
thousands of the Mormons, however, who reprobate, 
and disapprove of it. 

The following questions seem to suggest themselves 
as bearing upon the polygamy practised by the Mormons. 
What is their rational plea from revelation as true be- 
lievers ? Is such a system in conformity thereto — with 
right reason, and with the requirements of civilized 
society? "Will it improve the physical powers of man; 
impart additional mental energy, and increase the pe- 
riod of human existence % Is it calculated as a wise 
providence intended, to perpetuate his species ? Does 
it harmonize with the requisites of peace and justice, 
and the good order essential to the happiness of all ? In 
my limited reading of the Scriptures, I find nothing to 
sanction such a course ; on the contrary, there stands at 
the offset of the creation a negative prohibition in 
Gen. ii. 22: "And the rib* which the Lord God 
had taken from man, made he a woman, and brought 
her to the man." Verse 23d of same chap. — " And 
Adam said, this is bone of my bone, and flesh of my 
flesh, she shall be called woman, because she was taken 
out of man." 24th : " Therefore shall a man leave his 
father and his mother, and shall cleave unto his wife, 
and they" {the two) "shall be one flesh." It is plain, 
that if more had been required for the purposes of true 
connubial love and happiness, and of procreation, it 
would have been given him, or so advised. Let us look 
at the 13th verse, Oth chap, of Gen. — " In the self same 
day entered Noah, and Shem, and Ilain, and Japhet, 

* Let them give a rib for every additional wife. 



152 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

the sons of 'Noah, and Noah's wife, and the three wives 
of his sons with them, in the ark." It is plain, at least, 
in this instance likewise, that Christian bigamists have 
but little cause for exultation, for it is doubted whether 
actions of a similar character to that which the Mor- 
mons profess, was not one of the prominent vices that 
occasioned the Deluge. See 6th chap. Gen. from 1st to 
7th verses, inclusive. Yet they say that they have Scrip- 
ture authority ! Why, King Solomon had TOO wives 
and 300 concubines ! But was this evil habit sanc- 
tioned by any requisite as regarded his standing as a 
wise King of Israel ? or was it done for the service of 
the Most High ? for we read in Deut, xvii. 14 : " When 
thou art come unto the land which the Lord thy God 
giveth thee, and shall j)ossess it, and shalt dwell therein, 
and shalt say I will set a ruler over us." 17. " Then 
shalt this ruler not multiply wives to himself, that his 
heart turn not away : neither shall he multiply unto 
himself silver and gold." 

" King Solomon's wives turned his heart." " That his 
heart was not perfect with the Lord his God." They 
can have Scriptural authority (another mantle of purity 
for their profound consideration) for King David's adul- 
tery with Bethsheba — but, alas ! for human frailty. If 
we look to those nations where bigamy, or plurality of 
women prevails, we see men both physically and consti- 
tutionally enervated — effeminacy of character, and lit- 
tle or no desire to cultivate those sciences which it is de- 
signed that the human mind should grasp. They stand 
still, and have done so for centuries. In contemplating 
its natural results, and its unhappy tendencies, we are 
brought to consider the causes that originated, or, more 



CONSEQUENCES OF POLYGAMY. 153 

properly, engendered the evil, and we are not at a loss 
to see that it proceeds from habitual and pampered in- 
dolence, unreasonable and carnal indulgences, unbri- 
dled passions, and the consequent inability of the intel- 
lect to discover this moral failing. What would be the 
consequence, if all the numerous classes of animated 
beings (other than man), in the particular of regenera- 
tion, were unrestricted by the wise ordination of their 
instinct f The answer would be — frightful havoc and 
total extinction of their identity. So would it be with 
man, if his reasoning faculties had not been vouchsafed 
to him. Thus is he endowed with that quickening 
judgment to know right from wrong ; and we have 
demonstration that these powers of the mind are ren- 
dered lanquid, and often totally destroyed, by the brutal 
excesses of the sensualist; and no better term can be 
applied to the bigamist. 

"0 ! had they but the instinct of the dove, 
And could love as well." 

We will suppose for an instant that this evil was pre 
valent throughout the earth ; and, for example, let us 
take a community of 50,000 men and 50,000 women, and 
class them at a very low estimate, and let us see how it 
would work ; we take it for granted that the number 
of the two sexes are equally divided : 

2,000 men take 10 wives each, 20,000 women, which together are 22,000 
2,000 " 5 " 10,000 " " " 12,000 

1,000 " 2 " 2,000 « " " 8,000 

18,000 " 1 " 18,000 " " " 86,000 

23,000 50,000 73,000 

Here we have, by this moderate calculation of the 

1* 



154 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

above community of 100,000, 27,000 men wifeless. The 
natural consequence of such a state of things will lead, 
in the first place, to discontent, which would grow into 
jealousy ; to tumult, ensanguined and civil controversy, 
moral depravity, and disorganization of all its elements. 
It might be said that a very great augmentation will en- 
sue with the growing offspring, but the fair presumption 
is, that male and female will be equally divided. The 
27,000 men would, in any case, have to wait for their 
chance of getting a wife, or wives, until the young folks 
become marriageable, which would be at the least fif- 
teen or twenty years (something to try their patience), 
and most likely then be forestalled by the more youth- 
ful swains. 

And it is here, in its midst, we must look for confu- 
sion and the clashing of that near consanguinity, or 
relationship of blood, which is considered both a divine 
and moral impediment to marriage ; and in such a 
motley community, where could be found the purity of 
domestic intercourse — the sanctity of true affection — 
the pillow of female delicacy ? 

In every view we take of polygamy, it is a false and 
vicious system, neither to be reconciled with revelation, 
with nature, or with reason. It is destructive to society, 
and to all human progress. 



BALL AT SALT LAKE CITY. 155 



CHAPTEK XXIY. 

Grand Ball at Salt Lake City — Etiquette— Culinary Preparations — Cost of Entertain- 
ment — Author opens the Ball with one of the Wives of the Governor — Beautiful 
Women — Waltzing and Polkas Prohibited — Mrs. Wheelock — The " Three Graces" — 
Extraordinary Cotillion — Mormon Wedding — Spiritual Wives — Favorable Impression 
of the Public Social Life of the Mormons. 



BALL AT SALT LAKE CITY. 

Towards the end of April, 1854, about ten days previous 
to the departure of Governor Brigham Young, on his 
annual visit to the southern settlement of Utah, tickets 
of invitation to a grand ball, were issued in his name. 
I had the honor to receive one of them. 

If the etiquette of dress, which is a necessary prelimi- 
nary to the " entre" of her Majesty's drawing-room, had 
been insisted on in the vestibule of Gov. Young's ball- 
room, the relation of the following incidents would never 
have emanated from my pen. 

When I arrived at the great city of the Mormons, I 
was clad in the tattered garments that I had worn for 
six months, on the journey across the Rocky Mountains. 
In vain I applied to every store in Salt Lake City for 
suitable clothes ; a pair of black pants or a broadcloth 
coat was not to be purchased. I, however, succeeded 
in having a pair of stout cassimere pants made for my 
intended journey to California ; and a gentleman by the 
name of Addoms, a merchant from Cedar street, K. Y. 



156 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES EST THE FAR WEST. 

contributed a new coat from his wardrobe. I was 
indebted to him also for a great deal of kindness and 
attention during my illness. 

With my striped cassimeres, black frock coat, and a 
white vest borrowed for the occasion from Capt. Morris, 
" en regie''' — I was as fashionably attired as any one whom 
I met during the evening. My friend, Egloffstien, was 
also invited, but there were no clothes in the city of Salt 
Lake to fit him ; he had grown so fat and corpulent, 
that ready-made clothes of his size, would have been 
unsaleable, consequently, he declined going. 

During the day, extensive culinary preparations were 
being made at Mr. E. T. Benson's house, where we 
messed. Mr. Benson had four wives; they were, on 
this occasion, all engaged ; one making pastry and 
cakes, another roasting and preparing wild geese and 
ducks, and garnishing fat hams, etc., while the others 
were selecting the garments which were to be worn by 
the ladies on this interesting occasion. 

I could not exactly perceive why such extensive 
cooking preparations were making ; on enquiry, I 
learned that in this isolated city, thousands of miles 
from civilization, and buried, as it were, in the moun- 
tains, it was a very expensive thing to prepare a supper 
for a large company, at the cost of a single individual. 
Sugar was worth 75 cents per pound, and very scarce ; 
sperm candles, $1.50 per pound, and everything else in 
proportion. It was expected, and understood, that all 
families who were invited, should bring their own pro- 
visions, candles, etc., and contribute for the music. The 
Governor furnished the ball-room only. 

Strangers, of course, were exceptions to the rule. 

At the appointed hour T made my appearance, chap 



AUTHOR OPENS THE BALL WITH MRS. YOUNG. 157 

eroned by Got. Young, who gave me. a general intro- 
duction. A larger collection of fairer and more beautiful 
women I never saw in one room. All of them were 
dressed in white muslin ; some with pink, and others 
with blue sashes. Flowers were the only ornaments in 
the hair. The utmost order and strictest decorum pre- 
vailed. Polkas and waltzing were not danced ; country 
dances, cotillions, quadrilles, etc., were permitted. 

At the invitation of Gov. Young, I opened the ball 
with one of his wives. The Governor, with a beautiful 
partner, stood vis-a-vis. An old fashioned cotillion was 
danced with much grace by the ladies, and the Gover- 
nor acquitted himself very well on the " light fantastic 
toe." 

I singled out from among the galaxy of beauty with 
which I was surrounded, a Mrs. Wheelock, a lady 
of great worth, and polished manners ; she had vol- 
unteered her services as a tragedienne, at different times 
during my visit to Salt Lake, at the theatre, where she 
appeared in several difficult impersonations ; I think she 
excels Miss Julia Dean in her histrionic talent. I 
had the pleasure of painting Mrs. Wheelock's portrait 
in the character of " Pauline," in " Claude Melnotte." 
She was the first wife of her husband, whom she 
married in England, about eight years before ; her 
parents, who are estimable people, came over after they 
had embraced Mormonism. When this lady married, 
the spiritual wife system, had not yet been revealed. 

Mr. Wheelock is a president of the seventies, and has 
travelled a great deal in the capacity of missionary ; he 
had, at this time, three wives, the last one visited the 
ball as a bride ; I was introduced by Mrs. Wheelock 
senior, to all of them ; they looked like the three graces 



158 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

as they stood in the room, with their arms enfold- 
ing each other like sisters ; they dwelt together in 
one house, and the most perfect harmony and affection 
seemed to exist between them. The last wife was a young 
girl of seventeen, well educated, and possessing great 
personal advantages ; her parents and brothers reside 
in the city. I was invited to the wedding, but was 
prevented attending from the reason I have before 
assigned. I requested permission to dance with one 
of them ; Mr. Wheelock took his new bride, and the 
cotillion was formed of his three wives and another lady, 
with their respective partners. It was a most unusual sight 
to see a man dancing in a cotillion with three wives, 
balancing first to one, then to the other ; they all enjoyed 
themselves with the greatest good humor. 

The particulars of the wedding, I had from a lady 
who was present. It seems that it is necessary before 
a man can take a second wife, that his first wife should 
give her consent ; if she refuses, he is prohibited from 
taking another. In this case, the first wife's consent 
was obtained ; I will not presume to say whether 
willingly or unwillingly ; Mrs. W., the elder, possessed 
great good sense, and her mind was highly cultivated. 
It may be, she made a virtue of necessity, and yielded 
the assent on which her future domestic happiness 
depended, with a good grace. 

She acted as godmother, and gave away the bride. 
I think on this occasion the Governor performed the 
ceremony. The second Mrs. Rose Wheelock is a trans- 
cendently beautiful woman. There is nothing prepossess- 
ing in the appearance of her husband, and it is a 
mystery to me, how he could have gained the affec- 
tions of so many elegant women. Mr. W. was appointed 



IMPRESSIONS OF MORMON SOCIETY. 159 

to a mission to Great Britain previous to bis last 
"sealing,"* and left for the States the day after the ball, 
he only enjoyed his last wife's society about four days — 
a very short honey-moon ! 

The lady could have married a more eligible man — 
She must return to her parents' house to reside, for 
the three years her husband would be absent ; yet she 
preferred to be the third wife of a man she loved, and 
who bore a high character for moralit}', etc., to being 
the first and only wife of an inconsiderate youth. 

After several rounds of dancing, a march was played 
by the baud, and a procession formed. I conducted 
my first partner to the supper room, where I partook of 
a fine entertainment at the Governor's table. There 
must have been at least two hundred ladies present, and 
about one hundred gentlemen. I returned to my 
quarters at twelve o'clock, most favorably impressed with 
the exhibition of public society among the Mormons. 

* Sealing is the ceremony of spiritual marriage. 



160 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



MORMON EPISODES. 



" Golightly " — His Occupation and Character— Author Patronizes Him— Mrs. Golightly 
— She thinks Shakspeare did not understand the Passions of Men—" Oh ! Frailty, thy 
Name is Man !" — Affecting Incident. 

tiie old lady's tale. 

There resided in Great Salt Lake City, in the year 1854, 
a jolly old Scotchman, who rejoiced in the cognomen 
of " Golightly," he was a baker by trade, a musician 
by nature, and a good Mormon by practice. He made 
first-rate bread, biscuit, and cakes, and cooked to order 
splendid beefsteaks and mutton chops, as my fellow 
traveller Egloffstien and myself can fully testify, for we 
patronized him daily in all the branches of gastronomy, 
for which he was famous. 

His bakehouse was attached to his shop ; a small 
house about a rod on one side, was his dwelling, and 
immediately back of the oven, in the open yard, 
was a covered wagon, which was used as the parlor 
and bedchamber of his old wife, and three daughters, 
aged respectively thirteen, fifteen, and seventeen, and a 
son of eleven years. 

This old lady I frequently met in my visits to Go 
lightly's shop, sitting carefully wrapped up, on an old. 
travelling chest near the fireplace ; she appeared to be 



" GOLIGHTLT." 161 

in very bad health, and seldom spoke, yet she often 
gave expression to deep drawn sighs. The three daugh- 
ters assisted the father in making biscuit, cakes, etc. 

Golightly was a well informed man, he had been 
a deist, a methodist, and was now a Mormon from con- 
viction. I think I may say, that he firmly believed 
in the tenets of Mormonism, and in the many con- 
versations I had with him, 1 inferred that his conduct 
was actuated by principle. He was an active member 
of a musical association, and performed well on the 
Kent bugle. 

It was on an occasion when his professional services 
were required to attend the funeral procession of Bro- 
ther Willard Richards, editor of the " Deseret News," 
that I happening in to partake of my usual lunch, I 
found the old lady sitting in her accustomed place, 
alone, and she appeared very much depressed ; I asked 
her the cause of her sighs, etc., when she related to me 
the following incidents in her life. She was a native of 
Scotland, and had been married to her husband for a 
quarter of a century — had borne him twelve children, 
four of whom were still living. Her husband followed 
the trade of baker, in Edinburgh, where they lived 
very happily. She possessed in her own right the snug 
little house in which they carried on business ; they 
owed no one, and were well to do in the world. One 
night her old man went to hear some strange Mormon 
missionaries preach ; from that hour her troubles com- 
menced, and they had steadily increased up to the pre- 
sent time. 

Golightly becoming indoctrinated with the princi- 
ples of Joseph Smith, had been baptized'. In vain he 
tried to make his wife change her faith, presbyterian, in 



162 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

which she had been brought up. Finding that she 
would not consent, Golightly determined to emigrate 
to the valleys of Ephraim, the " laud flowing with milk 
and honey." To this step also his wife refused to 
accede, whereupon he sold out his bakery and accumu- 
lating all the ready money he wanted for his purpose, 
left his family (not in want, for they had an income suf- 
ficient to live on), but without a protector, and took 
passage, along with many others, in a vessel from Liver- 
pool, bound direct to New York. 

After his arrival in New York, the company pro- 
ceeded to St. Louis, up the Missouri to Independence, 
and thence, overland to Salt Lake City, where he 
arrived in good condition, and with the small means at 
his command, he built the shop and house in which I 
found him. He liked his new residence, and made 
arrangements for his family. He wrote to his wife, 
requesting her to sell off the property, and come over 
to the Valley, among the mountains, and join him, as he 
intended to spend the remainder of his days there. 

When the old lady received this letter, she determined 
to brave all the dangers of a long voyage across the At- 
lantic, the perils of the mountains and prairies, and 
rejoin her beloved old man, with whom she had spent 
so many hours of happiness, and with whom she deter- 
mined to end her life. "With the assistance of kind 
friends, all her effects were converted into money, and 
she had just £200 with which to commence the jour- 
ney. 

Her three daughters and a young son accompanied 
her. Passing over her terrible sea-sickness and difiicul- 
ties which attended her sea-voyage, she arrived in due 
time at New York, where she purchased " through " 



" MRS. GOLIGHTLY." 163 

tickets for herself and children from one who styled him- 
self an agent of the Railroad Company. After paying 
her money and taking seats in the cars, she found 
she had been cheated by the counterfeit agent, her 
tickets were perfectly worthless ; the kind-hearted con- 
ductor, in consequence, gave her free passage to St. 
Louis, at which place she embarked on board the 
steamboat for Independence, to join a caravan of immi- 
grants, who were also on the way to the " Valley." 

At Independence she purchased two good horses and 
the wagon which was then at the door, together with all 
the necessary provisions and clothing for a five-months' 
journey. Her outfit cost her nearly all the money 
she had left ; but not requiring to spend more before 
she got to the Valley, she made herself easy on that 
score. The continual state of excitement which she had 
been in from the time she sold out at Edinburgh, with 
her illness on board ship, superinduced by old age, etc., 
gave her the dropsy. Her daughters took it by turns 
to drive the team, and her kind fellow-travellers har- 
nessed up the horses, and attended to the arduous duties 
of camp-travelling. 

Suffering in mind and body, the caravan arrived at 
" Fort Laramie," where they met some teamsters who 
were on their return to the States. Our old lady, whose 
anxiety to embrace her husband increased, the nearer 
she approached the place he was in, was induced to 
inquire of one of these teamsters if he knew Mr. Go- 
lightly, in Salt Lake City ? He answered, that he did, 
he had purchased his bread and crackers from him only 
a month ago. " Golightly and his wife were both well, 
and liimg very comfortably !" 



164 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR "WEST. 

" Surely, toon, you mak a mistake ; ' Golightly ' has 
na itlier wife but me." 

The man insisted that he had taken a spiritual wife. 

" A ' spiritual wife ' — I dinna ken the kind." 

Our old lady had of course never heard, that poly- 
gamy was practised as a part of the religion of the Mor- 
mons. She treated the report of the teamster as a 
mistake, and supposed he meant that Golightly had 
hired a servant girl, to do the work ot the house. 
Under this impression, she resumed her journey. Bat, 
poor woman, what was her sorrow and agony, to find on 
her arrival at Salt Lake that the husband of her 
youth, he for whom she had just submitted to such an 
unheard-of sacrifice of personal comfort, at her age ; the 
father of her children, should have broken faith, and 
repudiated her ! Heart-broken, and prostrated with dis- 
ease she fell back in her wagon — in a swoon. Our old 
Trojan quickly applied restoratives, and endeavored to 
lift her into the house. " Na, na. my foot shall never 
cross the threshold of the house that contains anither 
wife ; this wagon shall be my house, and my children's 
house ; in that, during the bowlings of the winter's 
blast, or the scorching heat of the summer, will I abide, 
until death takes me away." All the affection and love 
of Golightly, returned on again seeing his old wife, he 
fondled her, and prepared all the nourishment for her 
with his own hand, and succeeded in pacifying the old 
lady to submit to circumstances, which, when she found 
it was a part of the religion, she became more recon- 
ciled to. 

But the old lady asked me, " Who do you think he 
married ? Surely nabodie but our auld cook from Edin- 



"O FKAILTY, THY NAME IS MAN !" 165' 

burgh ; a dirty wench that I turned out of my house for 
impertinence ; she followed the old man, and induced 
him to marry her, telling him that I never intended to 
come out to him. I have never set my eyes upon her, 
for she takes good care not to come where I am. It is 
now more than two years since I arrived, and the 
preachers have told me that if I would be baptized, I 
would feel perfectly contented." To please the old man, 
whom she still loved, she consented, and was immersed 
in water over her head, on a bitter cold day — but she 
resumed : " I canna see ony different now, I am only 
the worse in the body." 

Her daughters are kind and affable girls, they are the 
sole companions of the mother, who never goes any 
where out of her wagon, but into the shop. 

I saw Golightly several times after the revelation 
of his wife, he said it was an " o'er true tale," but his 
wife ought to know that he did not desert her, he sent 
for her, and loved her now more than ever, that he only 
took a spiritual wife, to ensure her eternal salvation ; 
and also in accordance with his firm convictions, that 
he was doing right. I took the physician who was 
attached to the Gunnison expedition to see her, but he 
pronounced her case hopeless ; and I would not be sur- 
prised, if ere this she is in that happy country, " where 
the wicked cease from troubling, and the weary are at 
rest." 



166 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

MORMON EPISODES. 

Extraordinary Abuses of the Spiritual Wife System — Fanny Littlemore — The Writer 
paints her Portrait — Her early Life — Attempt by her Parents to force her to marry her 
Uncle at Nauvoo — Her Escape to St. Louis — She writes to her Lover- — Terry Littlemore 
— Marriage — Extraordinary Letter — Fanny's Mother exchanges Husbands with her 
Aunt — Her Father also exchanges Wives with her Uncle — Fanny's journey to Salt 
Lake — Terry Littlemore hecomes a Mormon — Fanny opposed to Mormonism — Her 
two Sisters become spiritual Wives of a distinguished Mormon — She meets her Father 
and Mother in Salt Lake — The Writer becomes acquainted with her Mother and Uncle — 
His Journey to Parowan with them — Verification. 

The following facts were related to me by a lady residing 
in Salt Lake City, being interwoven with her life. I give 
all except the real names of the parties. This history 
was volunteered during the time I was occupied in 
painting her own, and her husband's portrait ; I was not 
bound to secrecy, the parties immediately interested, are 
all residing at present in Utah. I became afterwards 
personally known to them, on my journey to Parowan. 

Fanny Oldham, the heroine of our story, was one of 
several daughters. Her parents were originally presby- 
terians, to which faith she had been brought up. A few 
years previous to the commencement of this tale, her 
parents, as well as other members of her family, became 
Mormons. The scene opens in Nauvoo, in the year 1842. 

" My parents resided in Nauvoo; my aunt being con- 
fined, at her own house, with a newly born infant, per- 
mission was requested of my parents, that I should go 



ABUSES OF POLYGAMY. 167 

there on a visit, to assist in the domestic duties of the 
family, during her illness ; they consented, and I, favora- 
bly impressed with my aunt's former kindness, willingly 
went. At this time, I was in my seventeenth year, 
and although surrounded by Mormons, and hearing 
nothing else but Mormonism preached, I still retained 
the religious views in which [ had been educated, and 
refused to be baptized in their faith. 

" Several days elapsed, after I was domiciled in my 
aunt's residence, during which time, most marked atten- 
tions were shown me by my uncle, my aunt's husband ; 
he would affectionately kiss me for good night, and 
morning, and I returned his embraces with the affection 
of a niece. One morning, after my duties had been 
completed, I went into the parlor, and seated myself on 
the sofa ; shortly afterwards my uncle came in, and 
taking a seat next to me, placed his arm rather familiarly 
around my waist, and pressed me towards him. This 
unusual demonstration annoyed me, and I endeavored 
to extricate myself from him, but he held me the tight- 
er, and attempted to kiss me. Highly indignant at this 
proceeding, I asked him how he dared to treat me thus ? 
he replied, ' that as I was to be his little wife, he thought 
himself privileged to kiss me/ I had never heard of 
the spiritual wife system, and I could nut but believe 
he was joking; but he told me in earnest, ' that I was 
destined by the Almighty to become his wife." I rushed ■ 
out of the room in tears, and putting on my bonnet, 
hurried home, as fast as I could. My father, was a man 
of high temper, and quick to resent an offence ; he was 
at In line when I got there, but, not daring to tell him of 
the insult, which had been pul upon me, I went to my 
mother's chamber, and bursting into tears, revealed to 



168 TRAVELS AND ADVENT UKES IN THE FAR WEST. 

her the scene which had just been enacted at my aunt's 
house." 

Terry Littlemore was a cousin of Fanny, there had 
been a reciprocity of sentiment existing between them 
for years, and their troths were pledged to have been 
married ere this, but from the opposition they had 
received from Mr. and Mrs. Oldham, Fanny's parents. 
Terry was well to do in the world, his moral character 
unexceptionable, and he could not conceive the reason 
that he was refused the hand of his cousin Fanny. 
Finding that his business required his services in a town 
in Missouri he bade adieu to Fanny, promising to return 
in a few weeks and marry her even without the consent 
of her parents. It was during his absence that the 
scene I have related, took place. 

Mrs. Oldham quietly listened to her daughter, and 
then told her that " the Prophet Joseph Smith had re- 
ceived a revelation from Heaven, that certain Mor- 
mon priests, were to take to themselves spiritual 
wives, in addition to the one wife they might have. 
Joseph Smith had lately seen Mrs. Oldham, and had ap- 
proved of her daughter Fanny, as a wife for Mr. Wilson, 
Fanny's uncle, and believing as she did in the truth of 
Joseph Smith, she also approved of the marriage, and 
forbade her ever to think any more of her cousin, Terry 
but to prepare herself to marry her uncle in a few days. 

Fanny became horror struck. She had hoped, on the 
bosom of a fond mother to have wept away the recol- 
lection of the unnatural and revolting proposal that had 
been made to her, but what was Fanny' s dismay at 
hearing: such a decision from her mother. As a last re- 
sort she sought her father, and on her knees begged him 
to interfere and prevent the dreadful sacrifice which was 



PERSECUTION. 169 

awaiting her. Her father, stern and inflexible with fan- 
atic zeal, gave her no hope. lie also approved of the 
marriage, and commanded her to submit, or he would 
use force. Poor Fanny had just time to reach her 
chamber when she fell fainting on the floor. When she 
recovered from her swoon her youngest sister was bend- 
ing over her, applying restoratives. Neither of her 
parents had been near her for the two hours she had re- 
mained insensible. 

Fanny, at the time I saw her, was the most beautiful 
woman in Utah. Her eyes were dark hazel, a classical 
nose, high forehead and luxuriant black hair. Her teeth 
were beautifully white, while her lips and mouth were 
" rich with sweetness living there." She was the 
mother of two children, and was 28 years of age. Still 
she w r as an elegant woman — what must she have been 
at the commencement of our story? 

This melancholy and horrible scene had passed so 
rapidly before her, that she had scarcely time to realize 
her situation. She determined to fly. It was therefore 
with an aching heart that she surveyed her beautifully 
arranged chamber for the last time. 

There were no tasseled curtains, or luxurious carpets, 
no hanging chandeliers, or gilded looking-glasses, but 
her bed was covered with linen as pjire as her own spot- 
less breast, and the primitive furniture was adorned with 
embroidered covers made by her own hands. A sweet 
little canary, the gift of dear Terry, sent forth a burst of 
melody when she approached his cage. 

Unbidden tears streamed down her pallid cheeks, and 
witli an unnatural composure she arranged a little 
bundle of clothing, which she required on her voyage. 
Swallowing a cup of tea which her sister had brought 

8 



170 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

to her, she nerved herself for the trials she was about to 
encounter from the wide world. She intended to claim 
the protection of a married sister, who had lived at St. 
Louis. She told her young sister, who was ignorant of 
what had transpired, that she intended returning to 
her aunt's, and kissing her affectionately, she bade her 
adieu. 

When she got out of the house, it was near ten o'clock 
at night ; turning towards the steamboat wharf, she flew 
down to the boat, and entering the cabin, she told the 
captain, who was well known to her, that some urgent 
business demanded that she should go by the first oppor- 
tunity to St. Louis, and requested him not to inform her 
family that she was on board. The steamer left the 
next day, and in good time she arrived at St. Louis. 

Fanny, on reaching St. Louis, immediately repaired 
to her sister's, who was astonished and unprepared for 
her arrival. She pressed Fanny to her heart, and wept 
from very sympathy. Poor Fanny, resting on her 
sister's bosom, related what had transpired at Nauvoo. 
Her sister determined to protect her at all hazards, and 
save her from the horrible fate that awaited her. 

With the sanction of her sister, Fanny the next day 
wrote to her lover, Terry Littlemore, requesting him to 
come immediately to St. Louis. In the mean time, she 
applied herself to her needle, and earned a sufficiency 
to support herself. 

In the course of a week, Terry Littlemore arrived at 
St. Louis, and hastening to his cousin Louisa's house, 
was soon in the arms of his beautiful betrothed. She 
•related to him the occasion of her flight from ISTauvoo, 
and then told him she was ready to become his wife, at 
any moment. Terry, fearing that his uncle would pur- 



EXTRAORDINARY DEVELOPMENTS. 171 

sue Fanny so St. Lonis, as soon as he knew her where- 
abouts, determined to marry immediately, and the next 
morning they were united in the bonds of wedlock. 

Terry Littlemore was advised to commence business 
in St. Louis, which he did. He opened a grocery store 
in partnership with another man, and furnishing a house 
comfortably, he took home his lovely bride. Fanny 
Wrote to her parents, after her marriage, informing them 
of the fact, that they as well as her uncle might know 
that she was under a husband's protection. 

Fanny and her husband lived happily and comfort- 
ably. In course of time she presented him with a son. 

After they had been married some time, she received 
the following letter from her mother : 

Dear Fanny : 

You will be surprised to hear that after living 
twenty years with your dear father, and bearing him 
nine children, that we should be separated forever in 
this world. It was "revealed to both your father and 
myself by an angel from heaven," that we should 
separate, as he could not secure my eternal salvation ! 
Your uncle, whose wife you ought to have been, has 
been " sealed," to me, as my Spiritual husband, and your 
father has been " sealed " to your aunt. I have the future 
care of your uncle's children, and he has the charge of 
your father's. Both of our families are now making ar- 
rangements to go across the plains, into some valley 
beyond the mountains, to seek a future and permanent 
home, where I hope to see you some of these days. I 
pray you to receive the farewell of 

Your affectionate mother. 



172 TEAVELS AND ADVENTUEES IN THE FAR WEST. 

On receipt of this extraordinary epistle, Fanny- 
hastened to her sister Louisa, who had also received a 
letter, conveying the same intelligence. They threw 
themselves into each other's arms, and wept over the 
infatuation and fanaticism, which had branded their 
parents' names with infamy. 

Terry Littlcmore was offered the lucrative situation 
of wagon-master, to conduct one hundred wagons and 
teams, laden with merchandize, etc., from Indepen- 
dence to Salt Lake. Terry decided to go, and leaving 
his wife and child in the care of his cousin Louisa, and 
his business in the joint charge of his wife and partner, 
took command of this expedition, and after a long jour- 
ney, arrived safely in Great Salt Lake City, where 
another uncle held a high position in the church of the 
latter day saints. Here the future prospects for Terry 
were bright, and a fortune seemed within his grasp ; he 
was offered by his uncle, that if he would bring his 
family out, that he would build him a flour mill, and 
give him a large tract of ground, besides stock, etc. 
This offer was most tempting to Terry ; he determined 
to accept it, and making the necessary arrangements 
with his uncle, returned home for his family. Fanny at 
first declined going, but an offer having been made of a 
very lucrative character, to her sister's husband, which 
they determined to accept, Fanny not wishing to remain 
alone, and her husband being resolved to go, she made a 
virtue of necessity, and acquiesced in his wishes, although 
she had her fears that she was taking a wrong step. 

Terry Littlemore dissolved partnership, and found 
he had sunk half the amount he had put in his business, 
by the carelessness and mismanagement of his partner. 



FANNY ARRIVES AT SALT LAKE CITY. 173 

Both families made preparations to travel, and early 
in the spring of 1849 they started, and with the usual 
adventures of a journey across the plains, arrived 
safely in Great Salt Lake City. 

When Fanny arrived, her uncle and family called on 
her, and conducted her to a comfortable residence. 

She was some months in the city before she would 
consent to see her mother, who was residing with her 
Uncle Lorenzo, as husband and wife. Her father, hav- 
ing had some disagreement with this spiritual wife, left 
her, and when Fanny arrived he was very badly off. 
At the time Mrs. Littlemore related to me these extraor- 
dinary episodes in her life, her father was caring 
horses and cattle on the pasturage beyond the River 
Jordan, in the Salt Lake Valley. She is now on affec- 
tionate terms with her mother. Her husband, Mr. 
Terry Littlemore, became a Mormon, and was baptized 
into the faith of the latter day saints. Mrs. Littlemore 
never became one. She told me her husband will never 
bring home a spiritual wife while she lives. Her two 
sisters are spiritual wives of their uncle, who is one of 
the great lights of the Mormon church. She seemed 
happy and contented, and enjoys herself. She has all 
the comforts, and many of the luxuries of life, and her 
husband is devoted to her ; they live on Mill Creek, 
some few miles from the city, and Terry is proprietor of 
a flour mill, and as well-cultivated a farm, as fine teams 
of horses, as choice stock, and as beautiful and lovely a 
wife, as any man in Utah. 

I subsequently learned some of the above facts from 
other sources. Mrs. Littlemore told me very nearly the 
words and substance of the foregoing, voluntarily. I 



174 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

think I remarked that I would write a romance, but the 
recital of the facts are as tragic, and as improbable as 
the most improbable romance that ever was written. 
* Truth is stranger than fiction." 



MASSACRE OF LAMPHERE. 175 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Arrival of the California Mail — Murder of Mr. Lamphere by Indian9 on Santa Clara — Hot 
Springs — Singular Phenomenon — Hot and Cold Springs— Mica — Sulphur— Plumbago — 
Rock Salt— Death of Willard B. Richards— Heber C. Kemball— Welsh Colony— Lieut. 
Beckwith's Departure for California. 

April 16th. — This morning, Messrs. Atwood and Mur- 
ray arrived with the California mail. They report that 
one of their party, a Mr. George Lamphere of Chicago, 
was shot by the Indians, between the Santa Clara and 
Rio Virgin (Virgin River). It seems that Atwood and 
Murray saddled their horses and prepared for their day's 
journey, before Mr. Lamphere had finished his break- 
fast. They mounted and started, intending to ride 
slowly along. About an hour after leaving camp, they 
saw Lamphere's horse galloping, riderless, towards 
them ; as he approached, they perceived three arrows 
sticking in his side. They immediately suspected that 
their companion had been ruthlessly murdered by the 
Indians. They succeeded in catching the frightened 
horse, and secured him to a tree ; afterwards they gal- 
lopped at full speed towards their late camp. They 
were well armed, and although they were ignorant of 
the force of the enemy which might be in ambush wait- 
ing for them, nothing daunted, they dashed forward, 
and found the dead body of their friend and compan- 
ion on the road, pierced with a dozen arrows, com- 



176 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

pletely stripped of all his clothing. Mr. Lamphere had 
a large amount of money with him, besides valuable 
specimens of gold, which he had obtained in Califor- 
nia — a gold watch, etc. Everything had been stolen 
by the Indians of the Santa Clara. 

The situation of Murray and Atwood was most criti- 
cal, as evidently a large force of Indians were in the 
neighborhood. They recommenced their journey, and 
travelled at full speed until noon ; encamped, and rested 
their animals until dark. They made a large fire, so as 
to show the Indians where their camp was, and, at a 
killing pace, journeyed all night. The Indians followed 
them at a distance, with a view to massacre them during 
the night. When they saw the smoke of the camp fire, 
they also encamped; and as their usual hour of sur- 
rounding a camp was just before day, when men are 
supposed to sleep soundest, they also rested from their 
fatiguing ride ; but the next morning the birds had flown, 
and were forty miles distant from them. These gentle- 
men arrived at Parowan, with their animals perfectly 
lame, and useless for continuing their journey to Great 
Salt Lake City. They there procured fresh ones, and 
arrived safely. From their own lips, I heard the recital 
of the above melancholy catastrophe. 

I was about to travel over this same road, and was 
fully alive to the dangers which might beset me; but I 
had to get to the sea-board, and as the party with 
whom I intended to travel were well armed, and com- 
posed of twenty-three able-bodied men, I felt just as 
secure as I would have felt on any other line of road. 



MINERALS OF UTAH. 



177 



PHENOMENON OF A HOT AND COLD LAKE. 

About ten miles north of Salt Lake City, there are 
two springs close together, one salt and cold, the other 
fresh and hot; these springs unite at some distance, and 
form a lake of 400 feet in diameter— one portion of the 
water is hot, and the other cold, and is so all the year 
round. 

It was said by the gentleman who described them to 
me, that he bathed in this lake, and that one part of his 
body was in the cold water, while the other was in 
water quite hot. 

******* 
In the mountains around Salt Lake City, mica is 
found in large masses. I saw one block in the city, 
several feet "square, which was perfectly transparent. 
It is used as a substitute for window-glass, in some of 
the houses of the Mormons. 

Plumbago of superior quality is found on Coal Creek ; 
and saleratus is procured in quantities from Juab Val- 
ley. Alum and sulphur abound in the different valleys 

of Utah. 

******* 
The death of Willard B. Eichards, one of the chief 
members of the presidency, and editor of the Deseret 
News, threw a gloom over the whole community. I 
attended his funeral. His excellency the Governor, was 
too unwell to officiate, but several funeral sermons were 
preached at the house. He was one of the earliest, and 
most valuable members of the church of the latter day 
saints. 

Mr. Richards left quite a number of widows, I could 
8* 



178 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR "WEST. 

not ascertain exactly how many, but I was credibly 
informed by a Mormon lad}'-, that she knew six. 

Heber C. Kimball, the next in rank to Brigham 
Young in the church, is a noble looking man, over six 
feet, and well proportioned, he speaks fluently, his lan- 
guage is inornate, and indicates an original mind, with- 
out cultivation. He is said to have more wives than 
any man in Utah — the Governor not excepted. 

I learned from a niece of the Governor's, that she 
knew personally nineteen of his wives, although he had 
many more. 

The Governor had at the time I was in the city, 
thirty-three children, including several grown men and 
women, by his first wife, who is still living with him. 
I was introduced by his excellency, to eleven of his 
w T ives, at the different times I visited his residence — all 
of them are beautiful women. Parley Pratt introduced 
me to his household, I numbered five or six females, I 
think he has but six wives. 

Ezra T. Benson, one of the apostles with whom I 
boarded, has four wives, three are living in the same 
house with him, and one in a small house, a couple of 
rods away. He has children by all of them, and they 
all seemed to live very harmoniously together. I had 
several conversations with these ladies on the spiritual 
wife system, they submit to it because they implicitly 
believe it to be necessary to their salvation. They 
argue, " Cannot a father love six children? why can he 
not love six wives ?" I must say, that during a sojourn 
of near three months in Salt Lake City, I never 
observed the slightest indications of improper conduct, 
or lightness, amongst them — neither by conversation or 
otherwise. Their young ladies are modest, and unas- 



LIEUTENANT BECKWTTh's EXPEDITION. 179 

Burning, while their matrons are sedate and stately. 
Polvgamy is by no means general, there are hundreds 
of Mormons who have only one wife. 



WELSH SETTLEMENT IN THE MOUNTAINS. 

Indian Walker, an Utah chief, relates, that on two low 
mountains, situated between the Red and Grand Rivers, 
there is a colony of white people, who live in rougli 
stone houses, two stories high, with no windows in the 
lower story, and accessible only by a ladder. 

These people have an abundance of sheep, and some 
cattle; they raise grain on the base of the mountain — 
this statement is corroborated by other Indian testimony. 

Briffham Young says, in reference to the above, that 
he believes them to have been originally Welsh families, 
who emigrated many years ago, before the settlement 
of this country. He told me that he intended to send a 
company of Mormons to search for the colony. 

May 6th. — The exploring expedition of the late Capt. 
Gunnison, now under the command of Lieut. Beckwith, 
with an escort of twenty-four mounted dragoons, under 
the command of Capt. Morris with orders from the 
government, left this morning, to explore for a pass in 
the Sierra Nevada Mountains, on a parallel with Great 
Salt Lake City. 

My old comjxignon de voyage, Egloffstien, accompa- 
nied them as engineer. 



180 TRAVELS AND ADVENTUKES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Departure from Great Salt Lake City — Equipments for the Journey — Author Paints 
Portraits of Gov. Young and Apostles— His Restoration to Health — Snow Storm — 
Cotton Wood Settlement— Willow Creek — Lehigh — Utah Lake — Snow Storm — Pleas- 
ant Grove — Provost — Payson. 

Having determined to go to California by the Southern 
route from Great Salt Lake City, through the settle- 
ments, and over the trail of Col. Fremont of 1843, 
which I wanted to illustrate with views, etc., I took 
advantage of the opportunity which offered on the 6th 
May, 1854. 

Twenty-three Mormon missionaries, under command 
of Parley Pratt, were about to proceed over this route 
to San Bernandino, thence to San Pedro, and the Sand- 
wich Islands ; at which latter place their religious labors 
were to be exercised to convert those benighted island- 
ers to the truths of Mormonism ! It was the season that 
his excellency the Governor usually paid his annual 
visit to the different settlements at the South. He had 
also made extensive preparations for a treaty of peace 
with the Indians under the chieftainship of Wakara. 
He proclaimed his intention of accompanying Parley 
Pratt and his missionaries to Cedar City, the most 
southern settlement, a distance of 300 miles from Great 
Salt Lake City. 

At the invitation of Gov. Young, who seemed anxious 
that I should have a safe escort across the desert, I 



AUTHOR STARTS FOR CALIFORNIA. 181 

completed my arrangements, and decided to proceed 
with this party. 

I purchased a superior riding mule for which I paid, 
including his shoes, saddle and bridle, etc., one hundred 
and sixty dollars. My provisions consisted of six boxes of 
sardines, and one hundred pounds of crackers, made ex- 
pressly for me by my eccentric friend, Golightly. Luxu- 
ries, such as butter, eggs, etc., I intended to procure at 
the settlements below. To the kindness of Mrs. Benson, 
the elder, I was indebted for four pounds of brown 
sugar, for which I paid one dollar per pound ; and two 
pounds of ground coffee, at the same price, — this was a 
favor, for I could not have procured any at ten dollars 
a pound elsewhere. My wardrobe had received con- 
siderable additions at corresponding prices — four dollars 
for white shirts, two dollars for striped cotton shirts — 
about four hundred per cent, on prices for the same 
goods at home. I determined to provide myself with 
all necessaries. I had some fifteen hundred miles to 
travel before I reached San Francisco. I found my 
Pandora's box most valuable on my last journey, and 
everything that I might require, I put in now, unmind- 
ful of the cost. On referring to my memorandum when 
I arrived at San Francisco, I summed up $350 as expen- 
ses of the journey. I painted several portraits in Great 
Salt Lake City ; among them w T ere two of Gov. Brig- 
ham Young; one of Lieut. General Wells, General Fer- 
guson, Attorney General Seth Blair, Apostle Woodruff, 
Bishop Smoot, Col. Ferrimore Little and lady, Mrs. 
AVlieelock, and several others. 

The Governor's party consisted of a large number of 
wagons, mounted horsemen, etc. They left on the 5th 
of May, 1854. 1 not being quite ready, having to finish 



182 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

a picture, was not able to leave with them. Brigham 
Young promised to wait for me at Provost City. 

On the 6th of May I mounted my mule, (having pre- 
viously sent my baggage, provisions, etc., in one of the 
wagons), and fully armed, and equipped with pocket 
compass, thermometer, drawing materials, etc., I re- 
commenced my journey, over the route I had travelled 
in wagons as an invalid, three months before. I was 
completely restored to health — I gained the enormous 
increase of sixty-one pounds. When I arrived at the 
city I weighed one hundred and one pounds, my usual 
weight was one hundred and forty-five ; I therefore lost 
forty-four pounds on the journey, and regained it, with 
nearly twenty pounds extra. After travelling three miles 
I was overtaken by a severe snow storm. I stopped at 
the residence of Bishop Smoot, where I remained all 
night, and was hospitably entertained by him. It con- 
tinued snowing until ten o'clock the next morning, when 
I resumed my journey, and arrived at Cottonwood 
Settlement. 

This town is eight miles from Great Salt Lake City. 
It contains one hundred families, who own considerable 
stock, etc. 

Ten miles further is Willow Creek settlement, con- 
taining about seventy-five families. Ten miles further 
south is Lehigh, a fine town, with six hundred inhabi- 
tants, three hundred head of cattle, one hundred horses, 
etc. Ten miles distant, is Lake City, on the American 
fork in Utah Valley, containing one thousand inhabi- 
tants, five hundred head of cattle, two hundred horses, 
and one hundred sheep. 

I have taken lodgings here, and feel rather tired with 
my long day's ride of thirty-five miles. 



UTAH LAKE. 183 

Utah Valley is the next, south of Great Salt Lake 
Valley, and presents a magnificent spectacle from the 
summit of the pass by which you enter. 

Utali Lake, which you can als<rsee from the heights, 
is forty -tive miles long, and twelve miles broad. The 
lake is situated on one side, to the west of the valley. 
The scenery, which is enlivened by the glistening waters, 
although grand and sublime in stupendous mountains, 
flowering vales, abrupt rocky descents, etc., is without 
timber, except on the creeks which meander from the 
mountains and entirely surround the valley. Sparse 
growths of young cottonwood are the only trees I have 
seen, except in the canons of the mountains, on which 
grow pines, cedars, and a species of mahogany. 

May 8th. — I awoke this morning and found another 
snow storm raging, and very disagreeably cold ; but if 
I allow these trifles to detain me, I shall not be in 
time to meet the Governor. 

After breakfast I mounted my mule, and in an hour I 
arrived at Pleasant Grove, containing 300 inhabitants. 
Passing through, without stopping, I continued my 
journey, the snow blowing in my face the whole way, 
until I rode into Provost, a distance of ten miles from 
Pleasant Grove. I w T as disappointed in finding that his 
Excellency had departed that morning for " Petetnit," 
nineteen miles further. I stopped there to dine, gave 
my mule a good feed, and after warming my almost 
frozen feet, I jumped into my saddle, determined to ride 
the nineteen miles before dark. Onward I went, putting 
my mule to his mettle. He, not minding a gallop, tried 
to create a circulation. In a couple of hours it cleared 
up, and at six o'clock I rode into Petetnit. 

Provost City is a large settlement, containing about 



184 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

eight hundred and sixty families, equal to five thousand 
inhabitants, two thousand head of cattle, three thousand 
sheep, five hundred horses, several woollen manufac- 
tories and carding machines, shingle machines, two saw- 
mills, a seminary and several schools, pottery, tannery, 
etc. Here are five hundred men capable of bearing 
arms. 

Provost City is built on Provost River, which abounds 
in salmon trout of delicious flavor and large size. 

Evan M. Green is mayor ; Elias Blackburn, bishop. 
There are four bishops to this city. 



AUTHOR JOINS GOV. YOUNG'S PARTY. 185 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Join Governor Young and Parley Pratt — Hospitality of the Mormons — Apostle Benson — 
Petetnit — Xephi — Wakara (Indian Chief) — Wakara's Camp Ground — Brigham Young's 
Wife — Long Caravan — Arrival at Wakara's Camp — His Refusal to meet the Governor 
— Treaty of Peace not Concluded — Presents of Cattle, etc., to Wakara — Grand Coun- 
cil of Indians and Mormons — Speech of an Old Chief — Address of a " San Pete Chief" 
— Wakara Refuses to Speak — He Dissolves the Council — Reassembling of the Council — 
Brigham Young's Address — Speech of " Wakara" — Peace Proclaimed — Calumet 
Smoked — Indian Capture of Children — Brigham Young's Residence. 

Governor Young and party were encamped at the 
edge of thet own of Petetnit ; when I rode up, I saw the 
commanding person of the Governor, tow r ering above 
the crowd of men by whom he was encircled. As soon 
as he saw me, he approached ; I alighted to greet him, 
he received me as he always did, in a most cordial 
manner. After selecting a person to take my mule, he 
gave me in charge to Mr. Ezra Parrish, with a request to 
take the best care of me until we were ready to start 
in the morning. I supped, and then went to the meet- 
ing, where I heard an elocpiient and feeling exhortation 
to the people, to practise virtue, and morality. Apostle 
Benson also preached a sermon on the restoration of 
Israel to Jerusalem, which would have done honor to a 
speaker of the Hebrew persuasion ; they call themselves 
" Ancient Israelites of the order of the Melchizedek 
priesthood." 

These Mormons are certainly the most earnest 



186 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

religionists I have ever been among. It seems to be 
a constant self-sacrifice with them, which makes me 
believe the masses of the people honest and sincere, 
-x- * * * * * 

9th. — This morning I was invited to breakfast with 
Governor Young and lady. On leaving the hospitable 
house where I had slept, the host refused to take payment 
for my supper and lodgings, or for the care of my mule. 

I made arrangements with Parley Pratt's company, to 
take my provisions and bag of clothes to San Bernandino 
in a wagon, for " thirty dollars." The day was fine, and 
we started with an accession of five wagons, and several 
horsemen to the party. The town of Payson, or Petet- 
nit, contains one thousand inhabitants, five thousand head 
of cattle, one hundred and fifty horses, five hundred and 
fifty sheep, two saw-mills, flour-mill, etc. It is organized 
as a city, enclosed with a high wall ; the houses are 
generally built of logs and "adobes,' 1 one story high. 
We left Payson at nine o'clock, on the 10th May, and 
camped at noon, on a creek twelve miles S. S. W. from 
town. 

The country around looks beautifully verdant, brilliant 
colored flowers cover the plain, and the grass is excel- 
lent. At five o'clock P. M. we camped before Nephi, 
which is a large town, containing six hundred men, 
women, and children; one hundred and fifty men bear- 
ing arms, six hundred head of cattle, and six hundred 
sheep, flour-mills, saw-mills, etc. Jos. L. Heywood, 
president, Josiah Miller mayor. 

The Governor and party, were met by the authorities 
of the city, I was introduced to the old Patriarch Win. 
Cazier, who invited me to the hospitalities of his house. 
Nephi is twenty-six miles from Payson. I attended 



INDISCRIMINATE KEVENGE OF THE INDIANS. 187 

meeting tin's morning, and Governor Young addressed 
the people, exhorting them to be kind and friendly to 
the Indians, etc. To-morrow we are to have an inter- 
view with Walker, the Utah Chief. A portion of the 
cattle intended for him was obtained at this place. 
The massacre of Captain Gunnison, by the Parvain 
Indians, caused great excitement among the inhabitants 
of the villages. The various tribes of Indians, who had, 
at different times, been wantonly and cruelly shot down, 
like so many wild beasts, by the American emigrants to 
California, were now incited to revenge. The first 
principle inculcated among them was life for life ; it 
made no difference whether, in their wrath they mas- 
sacred an innocent, or an unoffending man ; "a white 
man slew my brother, my duty is to avenge his death, 
by killing a white man." Their first open demonstration, 
was the massacre of Gunnison ; and the allied troops of 
Utahs, Pahutes, Parvains, and Payedes determined to 
continue in open hostility, both to the Mormons, and 
Americans. The inhabitants of the different settlements 
withdrew within the walls of their towns, and vigilant 
watchers, well armed, patrolled them all night. Major 
Biddell, the sub Indian agent, was sent to parley with 
the chief of the tribes, and succeeded in obtaining a 
truce, until the Governor could personally make ar- 
rangements for a treaty of peace. Preliminaries being 
settled, the chiefs of the tribes were to meet Governor 
Brigham Young, at the camp of the Wakara. We left 
Kephi, and arrived at noon, on the road opposite to 
Wakara's camp, twelve miles from town. 



188 TRAVELS AND ADVENTUKES IN THE FAE WEST. 



TREATY OF PEACE WITH THE TTTAHS. 

The camp-gromid or village where "Wakara perma- 
nently resides, when not travelling, is situated about 
one mile off the main road, from the city of Nephi, to 
the Seveir River. Gov. Young made extensive prepa- 
rations for this treaty. A large cavalcade accompanied 
him from Great Salt Lake City, composed of Heber, C. 
Kimball, Woodruff, John Taylor, Ezra T. Benson, 
Lorenzo Young, Erasmus Snow, Parley Pratt, (his apos- 
tles and advisers), together with about fifty mounted 
men, and one hundred wagons and teams filled with 
gentlemen, with their wives and families. This was an 
imposing travelling party, all following in regular suc- 
cession ; taking the word of command from the leading 
wagon, in which rode Gov. Brigham Young. One of 
his wives, an accomplished and beautiful lady, who 
made her husband's coffee, and cooked his meals for 
him at every camp, thus making herself a most useful ap- 
pendage to the camp equipage, as well as an affectionate 
and loving companion to her spiritual lord while travel- 
ling. I sometimes formed a third party on the road, and 
frequently had my seat at their primitive table, which 
was, in fine weather, a clean white cloth, spread over the 
grass ; or, in rainy weather, a movable table was 
arranged in the wagon. Venison, beef, coffee, eggs, pies, 
etc., were served at every meal. 

I have often stopped at the top of some commanding 
eminence, to see this immense cavalcade, lengthened 
out over a mile, winding leisurely along the side of a 
mountain, or trotting blithely in the hollow of some of 
the beautiful valleys through which we passed, to the 



ARRIVAL AT WAKARA's CAMP. 189 

pound of musical choruses from the whole party, some- 
times ending with 

" I never knew what joy was 
Till I became a Mormon," 

to the tune of " bonny breastknots." Certainly, a more 
joyous, happy, free-from-care, and good-hearted people, 
I never sojourned among. When the cavalcade arrived 
on the road, opposite to Walker's camp, Gov. Young 
sent a deputation to inform Wakara that he had arrived, 
and would be ready to give him an audience at a cer- 
tain hour, that day. 

Wakara sent word back to say, "If Gov. Young 
wanted to see him, he must come to him at his camp, 
as he did not intend to leave it to see any body." 

When this message was delivered to G«.»v. Young, he 
gave orders for the whole cavalcade to proceed to 
Wakara's camp — "If the mountain will not come to 
Mahomet, Mahomet must go to the mountain." 

The Governor was under the impression that Walker 
had changed his mind, and intended to continue the 
war, and for that reason declined to meet him. But old 
Wakara was a king, and a great chief. He stood upon 
the dignity of his position, and feeling himself the re- 
presentative of an aggrieved and much injured people, 
acted as though a cessation of hostilities by the Indians 
was to be solicited on the part of the whites, and he felt 
great indifference about the result. 

Gov. Young, at the expense of the people of Utah, 
brought with him sixteen head of cattle, blankets 
and clothing, trinkets, arms and ammunition. I ex- 
pressed much astonishment, that arms and ammunition 
shouM be furnished the Indians. His excellency 



190 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

told me that from their contiguity to the immigrant 
road, they possessed themselves of arms in exchange and 
trade, from American' travellers. And as it was the 
object of the Mormons to protect, as much as possible, 
their people from the aggressions of the Indians, and 
also from the continual descent upon their towns — beg- 
ging for food, and stealing when it was not given, he 
thought it more advisable to furnish them with the 
means of shooting their own game. The Utali Indians 
possess rifles of the first quality. All the chiefs are pro- 
vided with them, and many of the Indians are most ex- 
pert in their use. 

When we approached Wakara Camp, we found a num- 
ber of chiefs, mounted as a guard of honor around his 
own lodge, which was in the centre of the camp, among 
whom were Wakara and about fifteen old chiefs, 
including Ammon, Squash-Head, Grosepine, Petetnit, 
Kanoshe, (the chief of the Parvains), a San Pete chief, 
and other celebrated Indians. The Governor and council 
were invited into Wakara's lodge, and at the request of 
his excellency, I accompanied them. Wakara sat on his 
buffalo-robe, wrapped in his blanket, with the old chiefs 
around him ; he did not rise, but held out his hand to 
Gov. Young, and made room for him by his side. 

After the ceremony of shaking hands all round was 
concluded, our interpreter, Mr. Huntington, made known 
the object of the Governor's visit, and hoped that the calu- 
met of peace would be smoked, and no more cause be 
given on either side, for a continuation of ill-feeling, etc. 

For five minutes intense silence prevailed, when an 
old grey headed Utah chief got up, and in the effort, 
his blanket slipped from his body, displaying innumera- 



INDIAN WAK SPEECHES. 191 

ble marks of wounds and scars. Stretching aloft his 
almost fleshless arm, he spoke as follows: — 

" I am for war, I never will lay down my rifle, and 
tomahawk, Americats have no truth — Americats kill 
Indian plenty' — Americats see Indian woman, he shoot 
her like deer — Americats no meet Indian to light, he 
have no mercy — one year gone, Mormon say, they no 
kill more Indian — Mormon no tell truth, plenty Utahs 
gone to Great Spirit, Mormon kill them — no friend to 
Americats more." 

The chief of the San Pete Indians arose, and the 
tears rolled down his furrowed cheeks as he gave utter- 
ance to his grievances : 

" My son," he said, " was a brave chief, he was so good 
to his old father and mother — one day Wa-yo-sha was 
hunting rabbits as food for his old parents — the rifle of 
the white man killed him. When the night came, and. 
he was still absent, his old mother went to look for her 
son ; she walked a long way through the thick bushes ; 
at the dawn of day, the mother and the son were both 
away, and the infirm and aged warrior was lonely : he 
followed the trail of his wife in the bush, and there he 
found the mother of his child, lying over the bod} T of 
Wa-yo-sha, both dead from the same bullet. The old 
woman met her son, and while they were returning 
home, a bullet from the rifle of Americats shot them 
both down." lie added, " old San Pete no can fight 
more, his hand trembles, his eyes are dim, the murderer 
of his wife, and brave Wa-yo-sha, is still living. San 
Pete no make peace with Americats." 

The old warrior sank down exhausted on his blanket. 

Wakara remained perfectly silent. 

Gov. Young asked him to talk, he shook his head, 



192 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

" No," after the rest had spoken, some of whom were 
for peace, Wakara said, " I got no heart to speak— no 
can talk to-day — to night Wakara talk with great spirit, 
to-morrow Wakara talk with Governor." 

Gov. Young then handed him a pipe, Wakara took it 
and gave one or two whiffs, and told the Governor to 
smoke, which he did, and passed it around to all the 
party ; this ended the first interview. 

An ox was slaughtered by the orders of Gov. Young, 
and the whole camp were regaled with fresh beef that 
evening. I made a sketch of Wakara during the time 
that he sat in council. I also made a likeness of 
Kanoshe, the chief of the Parvain Indians. 

The next morning the council again assembled, and 
the Governor commenced by telling the chiefs, that he 
wanted to be friends with all the Indians ; he loved 
them like a father, and would always give them plenty 
of clothes, and good food, provided they did not fight, 
and slay any more white men. He brought as presents 
to them, sixteen head of oxen, besides a large lot of 
clothing and considerable ammunition. The oxen were 
all driven into Wakara's camp, and the sight of them 
made the chiefs feel more friendly. 

Wakara, who is a man of imposing appearance, was, 
on this occasion, attired with only a deer-skin hunting 
shirt, although it was very cold ; his blue blanket lay at 
his side ; he looked care-worn and haggard, and spoke 
as follows : 

" Wakara has heard all the talk of the good Mormon 
chief. Wakara no like to go to w T ar with' him. Some- 
times Wakara take his young men, and go far away, to 
sell horses. When he is absent, then Amerecats come 
and kill his wife and children. Why not come and 



PEACE WITH THE INDIANS CONCLUDED. 193 

fight when "Wakara is at home ? Wakara is accused of 
killing Capt. Gunnison. Wakara did not ; Wakara was 
three hundred miles away when the Merecat chief was 
slain. Merecats soldier hunt Wakara, to kill him, but 
no find him. Wakara hear it ; Wakara come home. 
Why not Merecats take Wakara ? he is not armed. 
Wakara heart very sore. Merecats kill Parvain Indian 
chief, and Parvain woman. Parvain young men watch 
for Merecats, and kill them, because Great Spirit say — 
' Merecats kill Indian ;' ' Indian kill Merecats.' Wakara 
no want to fight more. Wakara talk with Great Spirit ; 
Great Spirit say — ' Make peace.' Wakara love Mormon 
chief; he is good man. When Mormon first come to 
live on Wakara's land, Wakara give him welcome. He 
give Wakara plenty bread, and clothes to cover his wife 
and children. Wakara no want to fight Mormon ; 
Mormon chief very good man ; he bring plenty oxen 
to Wakara. Wakara talk last night to Payede, to 
Kahutah, San Pete, Parvain — all Indian say, 'No fight 
Mormon or Merecats more.' If Indian kill white man 
again, Wakara make Indian howl." 

The calumet of peace was again handed around, and 
all the party took a smoke. The council was then dis- 
solved. 

Gov. Young intended to visit all the settlements 
south, to Harmony City. Wakara told his excellency, 
that "he and his chiefs w T ould accompany him all the 
way and back, as a body-guard." Grosepine, Ammon, 
Squash-head, Wakara and his wife, Canoshe and his 
wife, and about thirty Indian young men, all mounted 
on splendid horses, got ready to accompany the Gover- 
nor's party. During the day, a great many presents 
were distributed among the tribe. 

9 



194 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

When I returned to our camp, I saw a crowd around 
the Governor's wagon. I approached, and found that 
his excellency had just concluded a purchase from the 
Utahs of two children, about two to three years of age. 
They were prisoners, and infants of the Snake Indians, 
with whom the Utahs were at war. When the Gover- 
nor first saw these deplorable objects, they were on the 
open snow, digging with their little fingers for grass- 
nuts, or any roots to afford sustenance. They were 
almost living skeletons. They are usually treated in 
this way — that is, literally starved to death by their cap- 
tors. Gov. Young intended to send them to Salt Lake 
City, and have them cared for and educated like his own 
children. I never saw a more piteous sight than those 
two naked infants, in bitter cold weather, on the open 
snow, reduced by starvation to the verge of the grave — 
no, not the grave ; for if they had died, they would 
have been thrown on the common for the wolves to 
devour ! 



CROSSING THE SEVEIK RIVER. 195 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Portrait of Wakara — Indian chiefs, to accompany the Expedition to Harmony City— 
Seveir River — Swollen Waters — Wagons ferried over — Col. Fremont— Fillmore City — 
Massacre of Capt. Gunnison — Parowan Indians — Kannsh — Capt. Morris — His conduct 
justified — Author trades for a Horse — Extraordinary Phenomenon of Insects. 

We remained in camp, near Wakara's village until 
next day ; I induced Wakara, to sit for his portrait ; also 
Squash-head, Baptiste, Grosepine, Petetnit, and Kanoshe 
the chief of the Parvain Indians. 

12^A. We all started this morning, for the Seveir 
river ; we arrived at the crossing at 4 o'clock P. M. 
and found the stream very high, and unfavoralle. 
There had been a bridge built, a year before, but 
the swollen and rapid stream, carried it away ; on the 
bank of the river, were piled up several of the planks 
saved from the wreck. All hands went to work to con- 
struct a raft, which they completed in an hour, and by 
8 o'clock P. M., 41 wagons (the rest remained behind,) 
were ferried over in safety ; we camped on the 
other side of the river. 

By invitation, supped with Brigham Young: I convers- 
ed through an interpreter with Wakara, the Utah chief. 
He states that he supplied Jose, the Mexican, whom 
Col. Fremont found in the mountains, and who 
left at Parowan, with a mule, to go with several 
Indians, back on Col. Fremont's trail, to find the " cache," 
(the goods buried in the snow,) about 100 miles from 



196 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Parowan ; he had been absent 30 clays, yet nothing had 
been heard from them. He also told me of his interview 
with Col. Fremont, some years before, and showed me 
the place where Col. Fremont crossed the Seveir River, 
which was a short distance from where we crossed it. 
He remembered Col. Fremont, as the "great Americats 
Chief." "While the men were constructing their raft, I 
occupied myself in making drawings of the surrounding 
country. 

lBth. We left the Seveir for Fillmore City, (called 
after the President of the U. S.,) which is 35 miles south 
of ns. After travelling ten miles, we camped "to noon," 
giving an opportunity for the animals, to enjoy the luxu- 
riant grass, which grows abundantly in this valley. 
(" Pound Valley.") We arrived at Fillmore City, in 
Parvain Valley, Millard county, at 5 o'clock. This val- 
ley is sixty miles long and fifty miles wide ; the Seveir 
Lake is forty miles from Fillmore. Within ten miles 
of the city, to the west, four fresh water lakes are to be 
found. Fillmore City, contains one hundred and fifty 
families, one thousand head of cattle, three hundred 
sheep, saw-mills, and flour-mills, etc., etc. A wall of 
adobes is built all round the city, protecting the inhabi- 
tants from the Indian aggressions. 

Capt. Gunnison's party were encamped at Cedar 
Spring, in this valley, at the time of their massacre. 

This afternoon, accompanied by two interpreters and 
several other gentlemen, we proceeded to the Parvain 
Indian's camp, to see their celebrated chieftain, Kanoshe, 
whose portrait I was anxious to obtain. I found him 
well armed with a rifle and pistols, and mounted on a 
noble horse. He has a Roman nose, with a fine intelli- 
gent cast of countenance, and his thick black hair is 



THE MASSACRE OF CAPT. GUNNISON. 11m 

brushed off his forehead, contrary to the usual custom 
of his tribe. He immediately consented to my request 
that he would sit for his portrait ; and on the spot, after 
an hour's labor, I produced a strong likeness of him, 
which he was very curious to see. I opened my port- 
folio and displayed the portraits of a number of chiefs, 
among which he selected "Wa-ka-ra, the celebrated ter- 
ror of travellers, anglicised Walker, (since dead). Pie 
took hold of it and wanted to retain it. It was, he said, 
" wieno," — a contraction of the Spanish " bueno " — 
very good. I also learned from him, through the inter- 
preters, the following facts, relating to Gunnison's massa- 
cre. 

" There were about thirty Parvain Indians, encamped 
six miles, N. W. of Gunnison's camp, on Cedar Spring. 
Potter, a Mormon guide, and one of the exploring party 
went out to shoot ducks ; one of the Parvains was also 
shooting rabbits, and hearing the explosion of fire-arms, 
he marked the direction, and followed the men to their 
camp. This Indian was the son of a Parvain Chief, who 
was killed by a party of emigrants, under command of 
Capt. Hildreth, about two weeks before. Marking the 
spot, he repaired to his own camp, and commenced to 
make inflammatory speeches to his tribe ; he made a fic- 
titious scalp out of horse hair, attached it to a pole, and 
elevating it, commenced the war dance ; the rest of the 
Parvains continued dancing until midnight. 

They were incited to revenge, for the unprovoked mur- 
der of their old chief; who, together with some women 
and young men, went into Hildreth's camp merely to beg 
food. They were ordered out, and force was used to 
take away their bows and arrows ; in the scuffle, one of 
the Americans got his hand cut with an arrow-head, 



198 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

when they were fired upon with rifles, and several per- 
sons killed ; among them this old chief. 

The Parvains, before day, started for Gunnison's camp, 
surrounded the party who were breakfasting under cover 
of the willows which grew on the banks of the creek. 
Capt. Gunnison was the first man who had finished his 
breakfast ; he arose, and while speaking to his men, the 
Indians with a tremendous yell, fired upon them. Capt. 
Gunnison raised his hands and beckoned them to stop. 
The men immediately fled, only one man fell by the first 
fire on the spot. The men's first endeavors were to 
reach their horses ; the Indians pursued them, and shot 
them from their horses. The American party never 
fired a gun, the last man fell three miles from camp. 

Kanoshe, the chief, was sixteen miles away from the 
scene of the massacre, and knew nothing about it. One 
of the tribe brought a horse into camp, and told Ka- 
noshe what had transpired. Kanoshe took the horse to 
the Mormon settlement, (Fillmore), and gave it up to 
the authorities. He then proceeded to the Indian camp 
for the purpose of procuring the property of the slain, to 
render it up to the Americans. The Parvains were exas- 
perated at his interference, and several arrows were 
aimed at him to kill him. 

His indomitable courage alone saved him. He finally 
persuaded them to give up the papers and effects of the 
slain, which he delivered to the proper authorities. 
The Mormon guide was also slain. 

The remains of the bodies of those who were mur- 
dered, were afterwards interred by the Mormons. 

When the alarm was given to the main body of Capt. 
Gunnison's party by one of the men who escaped from 
the Indians, Capt. Morris and a detachment of his 



CAPT. MOKRIS, U. S. A. 199 

dragoons, instantly galloped to the scene of action, 
thirty miles off; they were totally unprepared for any- 
thing but offensive warfare. 

They arrived on the spot, and found the mutilated 
remains of their comrades, but no signs of Indians. The 
weather was very cold, and the ground frozen hard ; 
they had nothing with them but their swords, to dig into 
the frozen earth, and were thus compelled to leave 
them, until they could send from camp, men with pick- 
axes, etc. ; besides, they were among treacherous and 
hidden enemies. The living men at the main camp, 
claimed the first duty of Capt. Morris, and as he could 
do no good to the dead by remaining, he retraced his 
steps to the main camp, to protect it from a like aggres- 
sion, if attempted. He did not know but that the whole 
of the Indians were in warlike array around him, se- 
cretly hid away among the willows on the creek. 

Some blame seems to have attached to Capt. Morris ; 
I read an article at Salt Lake City, in a late American 
paper, in which his conduct was censured. I showed 
him this paper, and he personally explained the situa- 
tion he was placed in, and told me that his duty as an 
officer, was to protect the lives of his surviving party, 
at the expense of the fraternal feelings and sympathies 
which he entertained for the lamented dead. I have no 
hesitation in saying that, from my knowledge of the cir- 
cumstances of the case, Capt. Morris was perfectly 

justified in acting as he did. 

* * * * 

At Fillmore I renewed my acquaintance with Mrs. 
Webb, who kindly entertained me when I passed 
through this place three months ago. 

14^/t. To-day I made a trade with Wakara, for a 



200 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

horse ; I gave him my double-barrel gun and a blanket 
in exchange, I have now a relief for my mule — we have 
a long journey before us, and I must give him as much 
liberty as possible. My sole dependence is on him, for 
crossing those dreaded jornadas* of over two hundred 
miles in extent. 

I made several views and sketches to-day. Fillmore 
is 33 miles S. S. E. from the Seveir River, latitude 
38° 59' 

The Parvain Indians are a dirty degraded set of be- 
ings, scarcely deserving the name of human. They are 
much inferior to the Utahs, both in mind and appearance. 

The Utahs have a large number of horses, and when 
mounted for a journey they are caparisoned with bells 
and gaudy trappings. The men paint their faces with 
vermilion, except when they go to war — they then paint 
them black. They are curiously attired in buckskin 
shirts, leggings, and moccasins, beautifully marked with 
beads and porcupine quills. They generally travel 
bare-headed, with sometimes a single feather in their 
hair. They are very fond of red and blue blankets, and 
use them in the manner of a Roman Toga. 



PHENOMENON OF INSECTS RESEMBLING GUNPOWDER. 

Riding leisurely along, at the extreme end of the cara- 
van, I noticed on the ground, what I supposed to be 
gunpowder. I knew that Gov. Young had a considerable 
quantity with him to give the Indians, and every man 
had more or less, a pound — I attributed it to the acci- 

* A journey : the absence of water and grass, makes it necessary to 
continue across the desert without stopping. 



GUNPOWDER BEETLES. 201 

dental breaking of a keg, as the wagon jolted along, it 
might have lost through the crevices. I also noticed 
that the powder was only in the ruts made by the 
wheels of the wagons. The quantities seemed to in- 
crease, and determining to prevent, if possible, any fur- 
ther waste, I galloped to the other end of the train, and 
called Gov. Young's attention to it. The caravan was 
stopped, and I dismounted to obtain a specimen of it to 
show the Governor, when I discovered that they were 
minute living insects of the beetle tribe, but no larger 
than a grain of rifle gunpowder, and at the distance of 
a foot it was impossible to tell the difference. When 
the heaps were closely examined, they appeared a mov- 
ing living mass ; on the road, ahead of the wagon there 
were none to be seen ; the weight of the wheels seemed 
to have pressed them through the snow, with which the 
whole valley was covered. The contrast of these min- 
ute, black insects on the dazzling snow was remarkable ; 
for ten miles, it appeared as if two continuous trains of 
gunpowder, from three to live inches wide, were laid the 
whole length of the Parvain Valley. Neither the Gov- 
ernor nor the gentlemen who accompanied the expedi- 
tion, had ever remarked a similar phenomenon before, 
although they had frequently travelled over the same 
road. 



9* 



202 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTEE XXXI. 

Corn Creek— Meadow Creek— Exploration of Vinegar Lake — Mephitic Gas— Sulphuric 
Acid — Sulphur — Alum — Volcanic Appearance of the Country — Beaver River Val- 
ley — Lieut. Beale's Pass into the Valley of the Parowan — Col. Fremont's Pass 
in the same Valley — Author crosses his own Trail made three Months before — His 
Feelings ou the Occasion — Red Creek Canon— Hieroglyphics — Granite Rocks — 
Remains of a Town — Arrival at Parowan — Brigham Young— Old Acquaintances. 

May 15th. On rising this morning I found a snow storm 
raging on the mountains ; in the valley it was raining, 
and the temperature 38°, cold enough to make great 
coats desirable. We left camp at 8 o'clock, and after 
travelling ten miles, crossed a fine stream of water 
called Meadow Creek, banked with willows; two miles 
further we crossed another rivulet, also fringed with 
willows and a few cotton wood trees. 

The soil in Parvain Valley is rich and highly produc- 
tive ; the earth is covered with parterres of beautiful 
wild flowers, which are quite refreshing to the eye, 
contrasted with the snowy mountains all round us. 

At 6 o'clock we camped on Corn Creek, 33 miles from 
Fillmore City ; this is the only water from Meadow 
Creek, a distance of twenty-one miles. 

The whole country in this neighborhood is of vol- 
canic origin. Black cinders abound on the mountains, 
and a kind of grey pumice stone is found in the valleys. 
Sulphur in large quantities lies on the open ground in 
the ravines. 



LAKE OF SULPHUKIC ACED. 203 

Mountains of pure solid transparent rocksalt rear 
their majestic heads in Juab Valley, a few miles 
south. 

16th. Wakara, the Utah chief, one of the Indians 
who accompanied us, informed me that a few miles from 
our present camp there was a most extraordinary vine- 
gar lake, where all bad spirits dwell ; a place where a living 
animal never was seen, and near which there was no 
vegetation. Our interpreter told me he had heard be- 
fore of such a lake, but he placed no faith in it. Wa- 
kara said he would go along and show us the place. 
Being anxious and determined to explore, and make 
some discovery which might benefit science, if any was 
to be made on this journe}'-, I induced several Mormons 
to make up a party sufficiently large to insure us against 
an Indian surprise. The next morning we left the main 
trail, and proceeded about two miles in an easterly di- 
rection towards the base of the Warsatch range. Our 
path was covered with large quantities of obsidian, and 
presented every indication that the lake we were ap- 
proaching was of volcanic origin. Before the lake was 
in sight, the atmosphere gradually became unpleasant to 
inhale, leaving a sulphurous taste on your palate. The 
approach to the lake was, for the last five hundred yards, 
over limestone rock, carbonized evidently from great 
heat, at some remote period. The air was greatly 
charged with sulphuric hydrogen gas, which caused me 
to feel an inclination to vomit. It affected the rest of 
the party in a similar manner. Being determined to 
examine further, we descended the lime formation for 
about one hundred feet ; this brought us immediately 
on the spot. Its appearance indicated from the charac- 
ter of the surrounding country, that it evidently had 
been n lake; it now looked like the dry bed of what 



204 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

was once a lake. The surface was covered with an ef- 
florescence to the depth of a foot, more solid, however, as 
you dig into it, composed of impure alum, and most 
probably formed by the action of sulphuric acid on 
feldspathic rock. Further towards the base of the 
mountain which bounded it on the east side, I found 
large quantities of pure crystalized alum, and also pure 
sulphur. This efflorescence which covers the lake, 
might be composed by the spontaneous evaporation of a 
mixture of sulphate of iron, and tersulphate of alumina, 
excess of sulphuric acid being present. 

We with great caution commenced to walk over this 
surface, and discovered that it undulated with the 
weight of our bodies. I felt as if walking on thin ice, 
which bent, without breaking beneath my weight. As 
we approached the centre, we heard a roaring, which our 
Indian said was caused from "big fire below." I put 
my ear close to the earth, and was almost sure it pro- 
ceeded from the escape of either gas or the passage of 
water. With a pickaxe, brought for exploring purposes, 
an orifice about a foot in diameter was dug. The axe 
was suddenly driven through, when a yellow, muddy 
liquid gushed forth in a continued stream. I tasted the 
liquid, when to my surprise, it was a strong acid, which 
immediately set my teeth on edge. Sulphuric acid in 
large proportions was present ; this crust of over a mile 
in diameter, was resting on the surface of this immense 
body of diluted sulphuric acid. Oxide of iron in large 
quantities is to be found cropping out of the base of 
the mountains ; sulphur in large quantities is also 
present. These materials, acted upon by volcanic heat, 
will produce a white powder, which partakes of the 
character of the substance, forming the covering to the 
lake. In the neighborhood of some volcanoes, sulphuric 



BEAVER RIVER VALLEY. 205 

acid is found impregnated with lime and baryta, both of 
which are abundant on the margins of this wonderful 
lake. The roaring is evidently produced by the force of 
the liquid through some subterranean cavern ; over this 
vast field of efflorescent sulphate of oxide of iron, there 
are no signs of vegetation. 

On the mountains, and towards its southern boundary, 
some few Norway pines and cedars grow. The sulphur- 
etted hydrogen gas which impregnates the atmosphere, 
prevents birds or animals from inhabiting or resorting 
near its neighborhood. This gas I judge to be generated 
by the action of diluted sulphuric acid, on proto-sul- 
phate of iron, all which ingredients are to be found 
here. Feeling ill effects from inspiring this gas, I 
finished my examinations quickly, and sought a purer 
atmosphere. I made a drawing of the lake, and sur- 
rounding mountains. This extraordinary place had 
probably never before been examined by a white man. 
None of the many Mormons who were present, and to 
whom I related the particulars, ever explored it. It lies 
directly at the base of the Warsatch Mountains, in about 
38° 26' latitude, and the same longitude as Fillmore City, 
and nearly 35 miles south of it. "We rejoined our 
caravan at their noon camp. 

About one o'clock we resumed our ride, and after a 
gentle ascent through a beautiful pass in the mountains, 
we emerged into a large and fertile valley called " Bea- 
ver Valley." We camped on Beaver River, thirty 
miles from Corn Creek. This stream is twenty-five feet 
wide, and two feet deep at the crossing; it rises and 
sinks alternately to the Seveir Lake, into which it 
empties. Only small willows grow on its banks. Bea- 



206 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

ver River abounds in wild ducks, snipe, and other 
water-fowl. 

ITth. — This morning, at daylight, there was a severe 
frost — water froze in camp half an inch thick. We left 
camp at half past seven, and after a drive of six hours, 
the caravan camped on Little Creek canon — the pass 
through which Lieut. Beale entered Little Salt Lake 
Yalley, a few months previously. 

"We harnessed up again, and in an hour crossed 
the trail which Col. Fremont and our party made on 
entering this valley from the Warsatch mountains, on 
the 6th of February preceding. 

Under what different circumstances I travelled the 
same road at that time ! When I turned to survey the 
snowy mountains among which we had suffered so 
much, and from the dangers of which we had been so 
miraculously preserved, tears involuntarily flowed from 
my eyes — I was completely overcome. 

I made a drawing of this pass, and also of Lieut. 
JBeale's. 

On Red Creek canon, six miles north of Parowan, 
there are very massive, abrupt granite rocks, which rise 
perpendicularly out of the valley to the height of many 
hundred feet. On the surface of many of them, appa- 
rently engraved with some steel instrument, to the 
depth of an inch, are numerous hieroglyphics, represent- 
ing the human hand and foot, horses, dogs, rabbits, 
birds, and also a sort of zodiac. These engravings pre- 
sent the same time-worn appearance as the rest of 
the rocks ; the most elaborately engraved figures were 
thirty feet from the ground. I had to clamber up the 
rocks to make a drawing of them. These engravings 
evidently display prolonged and continued labor, and I 



HIFK0GLTPHIC8. 207 

judge them to have been executed by a different class 
of persons than the Indians, who now inhabit these val- 
leys and mountains — ages seem to have passed since 
they were done. 

When we take into consideration the compact nature 
of the blue granite and the depth of the engravings, 
years must have been spent in their execution. For 
what purpose were they made ? and by whom, and at 
what period of time ? It seems physically impossible 
that those I have mentioned as being thirty feet from 
the valley, could have been worked in the present posi- 
tion of the rocks. Some great convulsion of nature 
may have thrown them up as they now are. Some of 
the figures are as large as life, many of them about one- 
fourth size. 

On Red Creek canon, a mile further down the val- 
ley, there are the remains of a town, built of adobes ; 
ancient articles of housekeeping have been found there. 
These remains were remarked by the first " Mormons" 
who came in the valley. Indians never live in adobe 
houses ; their lodges are always of umbrageous foliage, 
or skins of animals. 

As soon as our party were descried from the observa- 
tory at Parowan, the authorities of the town, and num- 
bers of other gentlemen, came out to welcome the 
arrival of his excellency, Governor Young ; and I never 
could have imagined the deep idolatry with which he is 
almost worshipped. There is no aristocracy or presum- 
ing upon position about the Governor; he is emphati- 
cally one of the people ; the boys call him Brother 
Brigham, and the elders also call him Brother Brigham. 
They place implicit confidence in him, and if he were to 
say he wanted a mountain cut through, instantly every 



208 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

man capable of bearing a pick-axe would commence the 
work, without asking any questions, or entertaining ex- 
pectation of payment for services. 

He must certainly possess some extraordinary quali- 
ties, which could inspire such unlimited confidence in 
two hundred thousand Mormons. 

We entered Parowan about five o'clock. I was affec- 
tionately greeted by those persons who administered to 
my sufferings some few weeks before. I had changed 
so much, and grown so fat, that not one of them knew 
me. 

Mrs. Heap, my old landlady, could not believe I was 
the ugly, emaciated person whose face she washed only 
three months before. 



PAKOWAN. 200 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

Description of Parowan — Cedar City — Fish Lake — Iron Ore — Bituminous Coal — Future 
Destiny of Cedar City — Henry Lunt — Affecting Incident — Portrait of a dead Child — 
A Mother's Gratitude — Harmony City — Parley Pratt — Piede Indians — Personal Priva- 
tions of Mormons — Bid Adieu to Gov. Young — Letter of Introduction to President of 
San Bernandino. 

Parowan is situated immediately under a very high 
range of irregular, rugged mountains, fringed with tim- 
ber. A fine stream of water runs through the city, 
which is sixty rods square, surrounded with a wall, 
six feet at the base, and tapering upwards to two and a 
half feet, the wall is twelve feet high, and extends back 
from the town six miles. 

" The valley of the Parowan, or Little Salt Lake Yal- 
ley, is about sixty miles east of the meadows of Santa 
Clara, between 37° and 38° of north latitude, and 
between 113° and 114° west longitude ; elevation above 
the sea, five thousand feet." (Fremont's letter.) 

It contains one hundred families, five hundred head 
of cattle, one hundred and fifty horses and mules, and 
three hundred sheep. 

Provisions of all kinds, are very scarce and high ; 
their supplies are procured either from Salt Lake City, 
three hundred miles north, or San Bernandino, five hun- 
dred miles over the deserts to the south. C. V. L. 
Smith is president ; Lewis, bishop ; John Steele, mayor. 



210 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

18th. — The whole party left this morning at ten 
o'clock, for Cedar City, Coal Creek ; we arrived there at 
two o'clock — eighteen miles to the south of Parowan. 

Mr. Henry Lunt, a well informed, and generous 
hearted Englishman, was, it is supposed, the first white 
man who ever entered this valley, or the river of the 
Great Basin. With twenty-two men he arrived at the 
present site of the city, two years and a half ago to 
form a settlement. 

Cedar City now contains one thousand inhabitants, 
who possess fifteen hundred head of cattle, besides a 
large number of horses, mules, and sheep. The city is 
half a mile square, and completely surrounded by an 
adobe wall twelve feet high, six feet at the base to two 
and a half at the top ; the building of the wall was 
attended by a great deal of labor; the persevering 
industry of these people is unsurpassed. A temple 
block is in the centre of the city, covering twenty acres 
of ground, the building lots are each twenty rods by 
four rods. 

Twenty miles to the eastward of Parowan, there is a 
fresh water lake, formed by a stream from the Warsatch 
Mountains, which is filled with salmon trout ; out of this 
lake comes the Seveir River, which flows north into the 
Seveir Lake. 

Immediately in the vicinity of the city, is an exten- 
sive bituminous coal mine. 

Iron ore of superior quality, eighty per cent, pure 
iron, is found in great quantities ; four miles from the 
city are two mountains of solid ore. 

Iron works are in successful operation, all the railroad 
iron necessary to complete a road from there to San 
Bernandino, can be procured here. 



AFFECTING INCIDENT AT CEDAR CITY. 211 

This city is destined to become a great place of busi- 
ness, and, in case the Pacific Railroad does not come 
through or near Great Salt Lake City, it will be the 
channel through which all importations for the Ter- 
ritory of Utah will come, it being only about four 
hundred and fifty miles from San Diego, on the Pacific 
coast ; a distance frequently travelled in ten days. 

I renewed my acquaintance with the president, Henry 
Lunt, with much pleasure, I remained at his house 
during my stay, and to himself and kind lady, (they are 
among those who deprecate the spiritual wife system), I 
was indebted for many little attentions and civilities. 

Mr. Lunt was about visiting the city of New York, 
on his way to England, and I gave him a letter of intro- 
duction to my family, which he delivered afterwards in 
person, before I arrived at home. 

The morning after my arrival, I arose very early, and 
taking my sketch-book along, I sauntered around the 
city ; in the course of my peregrinations, I saw a man 
walking up and down before an adobe shanty, appar- 
ently much distressed ; I approached him, and inquired 
the cause of his dejection; he told me that his only 
daughter, aged six years, had died suddenly in the 
night ; he pointed to the door, and I entered the dwell- 
ing. 

Laid out upon a straw mattrass, scrupulously clean, 
was one of the most angelic children I ever saw. On 
its face was a placid smile, and it looked more like the 
gentle repose of healthful sleep than the everlasting 
slumber of death. 

Beautiful curls clustered around a brow of snowy 
whiteness. It was easy to perceive that it was a child 
lately from England, from its peculiar conformation. I 



212 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

entered very softly, and did not disturb the afflicted 
mother, who reclined on the bed, her face buried in the 
pillow, sobbing as if her heart would break. 

Without a second's reflection I commenced making a 
sketch of the inanimate being before me, and in the 
course of half-au-hour I had produced an excellent like- 
ness. 

A slight movement in the room caused the mother to 
look around her. She perceived me, and I apologized 
for my intrusion ; and telling her that I was one of the 
Governor's party who arrived last night, I tore the leaf 
out of my book and presented it to her, and it is impos- 
sible to describe the delight and joy she expressed at its 
possession. She said I was an angel sent from heaven 
to comfort her. 

She had no likeness of her child. 

I bid her place her trust in Him " who giveth and 
taketh away," and left her indulging in the excitement 
of joy and sorrow. I went out unperceived by the 
bereaved father, who was still walking up and down, 
buried in grief. I continued my walk, contemplating 
the strange combination of events, which gave this 
poor woman a single ray of peace for her sorrowing 
heart. 

When I was about starting the next day, I discovered 
in the wagon a basket filled with eggs, butter, and 
several loaves of bread, and a note to my address con- 
taining these words — " From a grateful heart." 

ldt h. — The Governor and a portion of the party pro- 
ceeded to-day, to the city of Harmony, twenty-two 
miles farther south. 

Parley Pratt and the party with whom I intended to 



MORMONIZED INDIANS. 213 

travel to California, remained behind to complete their 
outfit of provisions. 

At this point, the road to San Bernandino branches out 
thirty miles to the westward. We shall proceed on our 
journey, on the return of Brigham Young from Har- 
mony. 

The Payides, or Piedes, were considered the most 
degraded set of Indians in the Territory, living on rep- 
tiles, insects, roots, etc., and going about in a state of 
nudity. 

Since the settlement of Cedar City, they have become 
more civilized ; many of them live within the walls of 
the city. The Mormons have supplied them with 
clothes, and proper food. The Indians have become of 
very great assistance in ploughing and reaping. Several 
acres of ground have been placed under cultivation, and 
appropriated for the use of the Indians. They are now 
acquiring the arts of agriculture and husbandry. 

A large number of them have been baptized into the 
Mormon faith. 

It is really astonishing to see the sacrifices and per- 
sonal privations to which these people willingly, and 
uncomplainingly submit. Hundreds of families who 
formerly lived more comfortably at home, are now con- 
tented with a mud hut, twelve to fifteen feet square, 
with a single room, in which they cook, eat, and sleep. 
In some of them I have seen eight j>ersons, including 
children, yet they are perfectly happy in the plan of 
salvation held out to them by the religion tlrey have 
embraced. 

21st. — The Governor and party arrived this evening 
from Harmony. 

He has appointed the following gentlemen to take up 



214 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

a permanent residence with Wakara's band of Utahs, 
viz. : — 

Porter Rockwell, James A. Bean, interpreter ; John 
Murdoch, and John Lott. These persons will follow 
them in their wanderings, and will, most probably, pre- 
vent many depredations and murders. 

22nd. — Our party intend starting for California, some 
time during this day. I breakfasted with Gov. Young ; 
he has given me a letter of introduction to the President 
of San Bernandino, and all Mormons everywhere. He 
says I have but to show it, and it will procure me all I 
require, at any time. I have just taken leave of him 
and his lady, as well as of the rest of the party. 



LAS VEGAS DE SANTA CLAKA. 215 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

On the Road to California— Iron Springs— Meadow Springs— Entrance to Las Vegas de 
Santa Clara — Prairie Flowers — Rim of the Basin— Santa Clara River — Difficulty of 
Crossing with Wagons — Wounded Indian— Serpentine Course of the River — Waterfall 
— Natural Cave. 

At three o'clock, our party, consisting of twenty-three 
Mormons, missionaries to the Sandwich Islands, under 
command of Parley Pratt, started on their journey. We 
have six wagons and teams. A woman who is going to 
her husband at San Bernandino, has permission to ac- 
company us. She also has a wagon and team, but her 
horses look as if they would not travel fifty miles. She 
is an encumbrance, and I anticipate trouble with her. 
We proceeded twelve miles, and camped at Iron Springs, 
with good water. 

22c?. — At seven this morning, we were on our road, 
travelling due west, until two o'clock, when we camped 
on Penter Creek, twenty-five miles distant from last 
camp. 

The road, now forms an elbow, and heads to the 
south. We followed the course, until we came to Mea- 
dow Springs, the entrance to Las Yegas de Santa Clara, 
noted on Fremont's map — distance twelve miles from 
noon camp. 

This stream is clear and cool. The meadows abound 
in good grass and rushes, while the surrounding moun- 



216 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST 

tains would afford sustenance to thousands of cattle and 
sheep. 

23d. — The weather last night was cool and delightful. 
This morning we left camp at half past seven o'clock, 
and followed the road in the centre of the valley mea- 
.dow, to the base of a picturesque mountain, studded 
with large cedars and umbrageous foliage. 

The meadow formed a perfect carpet of various 
colored flowers, among which were larkspurs, lupines, 
and many varieties of wild flowers which I have never 
before seen. I have gathered and preserved specimens 
of those I considered most valuable. 

The contrast of the colors of prairie flowers, as they 
are thrown carelessly on nature's carpet, is truly won- 
derful ; the greatest harmony prevails — you see the 
yellow and purple, green and red, orange and blue, 
arranged always in juxtaposition, producing the primi- 
tive colors of a ray of light, through which medium only 
we are able to distinguish them. 

The ancient masters always produced harmony in their 
pictures because they closely studied nature ; at the 
same time, they could not have known the science of 
colors, as there is no work extant on the theory of colors, 
when Raphael or Titian lived. Modern researches have 
discovered the reasons why nature is thus harmoniously 
beautiful in all her varied dresses. 

The works of modern artists, therefore, should be 
always correctly delineated, as they not only have the 
same nature to study from as the ancients had, but 
science has assisted them with theoretical problems, 
founded on scientific investigations, in the different 
branches of Natural Philosophy. 



SANTA CLARA KIVEK. 217 

The road continued through a romantic pass, which 
wound around the foot of the mountains. 

When we reached the divide where the waters flow 
towards the Gulf of California, the scene that presented 
itself was grand and sublime. 

"We camped on the hanks of a beautiful stream, the 
Santa Clara, on the margins of which I observed the 
rose-tree, in full bearing, also cottonwood, ash, besides 
shrubs of different kinds, all in bloom. The air was 
filled with fragrance, and the scene presented a harmo- 
nious and refreshing landscape. This paradise is with- 
out a solitary living human inhabitant. These plants 
and flowers are literally 

" Wasting their sweetness on the desert air." 

We travelled twenty miles this morning, when, after 
giving our horses a resting-spell, we continued on our 
journey through this luxuriantly beautiful valley, cross- 
ing and re-crossing the Santa Clara six times. This 
river runs in a serpentine direction, almost due south, 
the waters of which were, at tliis time, much swollen. 
At the last crossing, my mule went in over his head, 
and I got a wetting as the price of my ferriage. 

The wagons had to be pulled over quickly, with all 
the horses attached to them, by long ropes ; the current 
was so strong as nearly to overturn them. Almost 
everything at the bottom of the wagons was wet. 

The east side of the river, is a continuation of pictur- 
esque, abrupt rocks, very much the appearance of the 
canons on Grand River, except that the formation is 
a black ironstone rock, while that of the Grand River 
is sandstone. 

The Santa Clara River, has no connection with the 
10 



218 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Seveir River, as was formerly supposed, but is one of the 
tributaries of the Great Colorado, emptying into the 
Gulf of California, while the Seveir River empties into 
Seveir Lake. 

We camped on this romantic stream, and at night I 
took a refreshing bath in its crystal waters. 

24:th. — At an early hour this morning, our camp was 
visited by a number of Paiede Indians ; they were almost 
in a state of nudity ; we supplied them with food, and 
some few clothes. One of them, who walked lame, said, 
he was shot by an exploring party, about ten years ago — 
corresponding with Col. Fremont's first expedition over 
this country. With those Indians Col. Fremont had 
several skirmishes, and I have no doubt, he was wounded 
in attempting to waylay that expedition. One of the 
men told him, I was an American, in contradistinction 
to Mormon. " Ha ! " said he, pointing to his wound, 
"I got that from Mericats " — he looked very savagely at 
me, and I have no doubt, would have taken delight in 
making me a target for his arrows : if I had told him I 
was one of Col. Fremont's men, I am pretty sure I 
would have had to give him satisfaction. This man 
followed our camp on foot several days afterwards. 

We left camp at eight o'clock, our road lay through 
scenery similar to that presented yesterday. We 
crossed the Santa Clara, six times to-day, making twelve 
crossings, in as many miles. Box, elder, cottonwood, 
honey locust, grow luxuriantly all along the river, about 
a mile from the end of the valley where we left it. 
There is a romantic fall of water on this stream. The 
fall is twelve feet ; on the opposite side of the road 
there is a natural cave, formed in the red sandstone, 
which overhangs the road, of nearly fifty feet in depth, 



ROMANTIC CAVE. 219 

and thirty feet high. I explored it, and found only the 
remains of some Indian articles. 

It was about this spot where Lamphere was killed a few 
weeks before, a description of whose murder I gave in 
my notes of Salt Lake City. We exercised great vigi- 
lance while in camp, and also while travelling through 
the dense undergrowth of many parts of this river. I 
looked for enemies in every tree, and was truly re- 
joiced when we reached the open country again. 



220 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Romantic Pass — Rio Virgin Valley — Sterile County — River Bottoms — Acacia Groves- 
Abrupt Descent — Formation of the Country — Pah Utahs — Indian Bow and Arrows- 
Orange color Berries — Effect on the System — Digger Indians — Baptized into Mormon 
Faith — Steep descent — Divide between Rio Virgin and Muddy Rivers — Difficult tra- 
velling — Muddy River described — Author lends his Horse — Approach to the " Great 
Desert." 

"We slowly ascended some sloping hills, which brought 
lis after an hour's ride, on the broad table land. The 
view then back towards the valley, was sublime beyond 
description. I made a sketch of it on the spot. Con- 
tinuing our travel for two hours we halted at a spring 
of clear water, impregnated with iron. We w T atered 
our animals, as it was the last water we should see, 
until we arrived at the Bio Virgin (Virgin River), 
twenty-five miles distant ; an hour was allotted for the 
animals to crop some (of the anomaly of this country), 
bunch grass, which abounded near the spring. We 
then started for the Rio Virgin, the approach to which, 
was through the most beautiful and romantic pass I 
ever saw : it is a natural gorge, in a very high range of 
mountains of red saudstone, which assume, on either 
side, the most fantastic and fearful forms ; many look as 
if they were in the very act of falling on the road below 
them. 

The valley of this pass is narrow, but abounds in the 
most luxuriant grasses and delicate-tinted flowers ; a 



VALLEY OF THE KIO VIRGIN. 221 

flowering shrub, growing to the height of fifteen feet, 
exhaling delightful perfume, abounds along the road. 
Pines and cedars start out from among the rocks, on 
the sides of the pass, towering one above the other, like 
Ossa upon Pelion. I have travelled through the beauti- 
ful passes in the Rocky and Warsatch Mountains, but I 
have seen nothing that could excel this, either for the 
facilities of a railroad, which could be constructed 
through it without grading, or for the magnificence of the 
combinations which are requisite to produce effect in a 
grand landscape. This pass is about six miles through. 
Suddenly, as you are about to emerge from this pass, 
through the opening of the mountains, I beheld the 
valley of the Rio Virgin at sunset, bursting upon me in 
all the glory and sublimity of a perfect picture. The 
view in the distance is unbroken for many miles ; gener- 
ally the scene is blocked in by mountains at short 
distances. 

We descended gently into an extensive valley, sterile 
to a degree, which seemed to be peculiarly adapted to 
the growth of a species of palm, called in the West Indies 
the Spanish needle ; this and a dwarf species of artemisia, 
was the only vegetation visible. The soil is sandy, and 
embroidered as it were, artificially, with parterres of 
small pebble stones, arranged with amazing regularity, 
for many miles, over which our wagons rattled, and 
bounced amusingly enough to those, who preferred a 
ride on horseback, to a seat in them. At eight o'clock 
in. the evening, we camped on the banks of the Rio 
Virgin, the waters of which were also very high. I 
expect great difficulty in crossing with the wagons to- 
morrow. Thermometer at noon 90.° 

25th. — We left camp this morning, at half-past seven 



222 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

o'clock. Our road led over a sandy bluff, which was 
most tiresome to our animals. After a stretch of three 
miles, we abruptly descended some two hundred feet 
into the bed of the river, which we crossed with much 
difficulty, as the water was over the bottoms of the 
wagons. 

The road led through a continuous grove of acacias 
{spirolobeum odoratum), in full bloom, interspersed 
with a few cottonwoods. We found this road, also, to 
assume a serpentine course, which created the necessity 
to recross it seven times, by noon camp. 

I noticed on this river a beautiful tree, covered with 
white flowers hanging in tassels like the flowers of the 
locust ; it resembles the willow, with its long narrow 
leaves. It is about as large as the weeping willow ; it 
is, certainly, the most beautiful ornamental tree I ever 
saw. 

There are two species of acacias, one closely resem- 
bling the opoponax, the other bearing long white blos- 
soms and spiral seed vessels. 

These trees abound with doves, which, with the mock- 
ing-bird, are the only kinds of the feathered tribe I 
noticed. 

The formation on both sides of the river is a conglom- 
erate, or pudding-stone, with layers of sandstone. 

Thousands of party-colored flowers cover the dry, 
sandy bottoms. It seems a marvel to me how the 
loose dry sand can yield nourishment sufficient to 
enable them to grow so luxuriantly. 

"We travelled twenty miles to-day, along the river, 
and camped at six o'clock on the road, with good bunch 
grass on the hills around. 

A number of Pahutes came into camp this evening ; 



DEGRADED STATE OF THE INDIANS. 223 

they were friendly, and also hungry. We gave them 
supper. I procured from one of them a bow, made of a 
single horn of the big horn sheep, covered on the out- 
side with deer-sinew, which they chew until it forms the 
consistency of thick glue ; they then cover the back of 
the bow with it to increase its strength. I also procured 
from them a quiver full of steel and obsedian pointed 
arrows, in exchange for some articles of clothing. 

26th. — We left camp this morning at eight o'clock ; 
our road lay through a complete forest of bushes about 
three feet high, covered with an orange-colored berry. 
The Indians, who followed our camp, said, they were 
good to eat. 

Nearly all of the party partook of them, as they 
tasted well. A short time after eating them I fell sick, 
and. they affected me in the same manner as if I had 
taken an emetic. All the camp were affected in the 
same manner. No other unpleasant consequences fol- 
lowed our imprudence. 

The scenery around is uninteresting. We camped at 
noon, for luncheon, after having crossed the river five 
times to-day. The sun is very hot, and riding exposed 
to its influence is not very pleasant. 

After resting our animals and satisfying the inner 
man, we resumed our journey, and camped on the river, 
having crossed and recrossed it fifteen times. 

The high bluffs imtnedately over our camp, are 
covered with Indians, all armed. 1 hardly think they 
will have the temerity to attack us. We travelled to-day 
twenty miles. 

The most degraded and lowest in the scale of human 
beings are the Digger, or Piede Indians, of the Iiio 
Virgin and Santa Clara Ilivers. Our camps were fre- 



224 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

qnently visited by them. I have often observed them 
with lizards, and snakes, frogs and other reptiles, strung 
on a stick over their shoulders, endeavoring to sell or 
trade for articles of clothing. At certain seasons they 
dig for roots to subsist on. They go about perfectly 
nude, with the exception, sometimes only, of a piece of 
deer-skin around their loins. They are expert thieves, 
and great vigilance must be used to prevent them from 
robbing you before your very eyes. 

The Indians on the Muddy River are a little higher 
in the scale of civilization. At one of their villages at 
which I rested, I found corn and wheat under excellent 
cultivation, the women grinding it between stones. 
This improved state is owing to the Mormons, who 
travel continually on this route to and from San Ber- 
nandino. From them they obtained the seed, and several 
implements of agriculture. The chief and half-dozen 
others in this village had been baptized in the Mormon 
faith. The Mormons have acquired the Piede lan- 
guage, and have collected many of the words and sen- 
tences, which they have printed. 

The following is an illustration of a few sentences 
arranged in the Piede dialect : 

Cot-tam-soog-away, I don't understand. 

Huck-ku-bah-pe-qua? Where are you going? 

Im-po-pe-shog-er, What are you hunting ? 

Cot-tam-nunk-i, I don't hear. 

Koot-sen-pungo-pe-shog-er, .... I am hunting cattle. 

Huck-ku-bah-pah '? Where is the water? 

Pah-mah-ber-karry, The water is over yonder. 

Topets-karry, There is a spring there. 

Huck-ku-bah-kah-bah-poni-koe, . Where did you see the horse? 



Kah-ponikee-kan-e-gab, ■< 



I saw the horse at the foot of 
the mountain. 



PIEDE DIALECT. 225 



NUMBERS. 

Soos, 1 

We-ioonc, 2 

Pi-oone, 3 

TVol-soo-ing, 4 

Shoo-min, 5 

Nav-i, 6 

Nav-i-ka-vah, *7 

Nan-ne-et-soo-in, 8 

Shoo-lcoot-spenker-mi, 9 

Tom-shoo-in, 10 

Wam-shoo-in, 20 

Pi-oone-shoo-in, 30 

Wol-so-i-mi-shoo-in, 40 

Shoo-mo-mo-shoo-in, 50 

Nav-i-me-shoo-in-ny, 60 

Nav-i-kah-mi-sho-in, 70 

Nan-ne-et-soo-e-mi-shoo-in, 80 

Shu-cut-spinker-mi-shoo-in, 90 

Wah-kut-spinker-mi-shog, 100 

27th. — At eight o'clock to-day, we were on the road, 
which turned towards very high bluffs. We found the 
ascent so steep that it was necessary to unharness all the 
horses from the wagons, and attach them all to one 
wagon, making fourteen animals dragging one vehicle 
up this difficult eminence — the men also assisted. This 
ascent was about 400 yards, and an angle of 35 degrees. 
"We were busily occupied three hours, in taking all our 
wagons to the table land above. Our course then lay 
over a barren desert, due west. 

The road was covered with a loose fossilliferous rock, 
very flinty, and painful for our animals to travel. We 
travelled over the same character of road for twenty 
miles, and then descended into the valley of the Muddy 
River, through a deep, irregular canon of at least 

10* 



226 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

three miles in length. We reached the river at five 
o'clock, after a toilsome and most disagreeable day's 
travel. 

"We found excellent grass for our animals on its 
hanks; the temperature was 00° Fahrenheit, which is not 
much above the average of the coldest weather. This 
river, supposed to be the Bio de los Angeles, vulgarly 
called Muddy, takes its rise from hot springs in the 
mountains. The Indian name is " Moap." The Indian 
name of the Santa Clara is "Tonequint" — Bio Virgin, 
is " Paroos." The water is clear and pleasant to the 
taste, and by no means deserves the name of Muddy. 

As soon as my mule was unsaddled, I was in the 
water, and enjoyed a delightful bath, which was re- 
freshing after such a long hot ride. 

We intend to encamp here for a day, to recruit our 
animals, and make some little preparation for our tra- 
vel over the dreaded Jornada, a distance of fifty-five 
miles, without a drop of water or a blade of grass for 
the animals. Jornada means a journey, viz. : a jour- 
ney on which you cannot stop ; for your animals, if 
they rested without food or water for such a distance, 
would go mad ; therefore, it is necessary to continue, 
and push right through, on one stretch, for fifty-five 
miles. It is most serious to contemplate, but " no hay 
remedia." 

My mule is in good order, and I trust to him to 
carry me safely over it. Yesterday I found it necessary 
to lend my horse to the woman who accompanies us ; 
one of her horses gave out, and my horse was the only 
spare animal. It is just what I expected; but as she is 
along with us, we must assist her at all hazards. The 



PAH-UTAH8. 227 

camp is filled with Diggers; Fremont calls them Pah 
Utalis, i.e., U talis living on the water. 

The>e Indians, we find are great thieves; they appear 
friendly, and. we put up with their peccadilloes for 
policy's sake. 



228 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN TEE FAR WEST. 



CIIAPTEB XXXV. 

Preparations to Cross the Jornada — Fifty-five Miles without. Water or Grass— Deserted 
Wagons on the Road — Dead Oxen and Mules — Emigrant Party — Clouds of Dust — 
Oasis— Delicious Water — Extraordinary Fresh Water Buoyant Spring — Impossibility 
for a Man to sink in it — Never before Described — Another Jornada of Forty Miles — 
Col. Reese's Train— Detention — Reese Cut off — Snow-Capped Mountains — Bad Roads 
— Mineral Springs — My Mule in Harness — Animals giving out. 

%Sth. — At about three o'clock, the order was given to 
fill up the water cans, as we were about to traverse this 
immense desert where water was not to be had ; every 
vessel that could possibly be used, was immediately 
put in requisition — canteens, kegs, bottles, cans, etc. 

At four o'clock, having harnessed up the horses, and 
saddled my mule, we were on the road, which led 
through a loose stony ravine, with much sand; it was 
very heavy travelling, and our animals moved through 
it with a great deal of difficulty. 

"We travelled thus for eleven miles, and then gradually 
ascended the table land, on a harder and better road. 

We commenced our journey in the afternoon, that we 
might have the benefit of the night air to travel in ; a 
cool, north wind tempered the atmosphere, and we con- 
tinued the journey through this sterile, bare, and 
uncovered country, until midnight, when we halted and 
refreshed our animals with water from our reservoirs. 
After a rest of three hours, we resumed our journey, and 
at ten o'clock in the morning of the 29th, we had 



DESEKT STKEWN WITH DEAD ANIMALS. 229 

crossed this dreaded Jornada without any accident, and 
camped on a narrow stream of deliciously cool water, 
which distributes itself about half a mile further down, 
in a verdant meadow bottom, covered with good grass. 

This camp ground is called by the Mexicans, Las 
Vegas. Once more, we had plenty of grass for our 
fatigued animals, and we determined to rest here, during 
the day and night. 

We passed a number of deserted wagons on the road ; 
chairs, tables, bedsteads, and every article of housekeep- 
ing, were strewn along our path. The emigrant party 
who had preceded us about ten days, from Parowan, to 
lighten their wagons, threw out first one article and 
then another, until everything they had, was left on the 
road. It was not difficult to follow their trail ; in one 
hour I counted the putrid carcasses of nineteen oxen, 
cows, mules and horses; what a lesson to those who 
travel over such a country, unadvised and unprepared. 

A strong north wind blew during the morning, which 
raised clouds of dust, completely and unresistingly 
filling our eyes with a fine white dust, although I used 
goggles to prevent it. 

The delightful and refreshing water of this oasis, soon 
purified me, and now, having crossed the desert, bathed 
and breakfasted, I feel more comfortable, both mentally 
and physically. 

Mezcpiite, (alga robia) are the only trees growing near 
this stream. 

30th. — We remained at camp all day yesterday, and 
left this morning at ten o'clock. 

We followed up this delicious stream for about three 
miles ; I was curious to see from whence it flowed, the 
general character of the country indicating that we 



230 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

were not far from its source. Several of us turned from 
the road, and at a short distance,we found its head waters. 
It was a large spring, the water bubbled up as if gas 
were escaping, acucias in full bloom, almost entirely 
surrounded it — its was forty-five feet in diameter; we 
approached through an opening, and found it to con- 
tain the clearest and purest water I ever tasted ; 
the bottom, which consisted of white sand, did not 
seem to be more than two feet from the surface. 

Parley Pratt prepared himself for a bathe, while I 
was considering whether I should go in, I heard Mr. 
Pratt calling out that he could not sink, the water was 
so bouyant. Hardly believing it possible that a man 
could not sink in fresh water, I undressed and jumped in. 

What were my delight and astonishment, to find all my 
efforts to sink were futile. I raised my body out of the 
water, and suddenly lowered myself, but I bounced 
upwards as if I had struck a springing-board. I walked 
about in the water up to my arm-pits, just the same as 
if I had been walking on dry land. 

The water, instead of being two feet deep, was over 
fifteen, the depth of the longest tent pole we had with 
us. It is positively impossible for a man to sink over 
his head in it ; the sand on its banks was fine and white. 
The temperature of the water was T8 , the atmosphere 
85°. 

I can form no idea as to the cause of this great phe- 
nomenon ; Col. Fremont made observations on the spot 
in 1845, and marked its existence on his map as Las 
Vegas ; but he has since told me he did not know of its 
bouyant qualities, as he did not bathe in it. In the 
absence of any other name, I have called it the Buoy- 
ant Spring. 



BUOYANT SPRING. 231 

Great Salt Lake possesses this quality in a great 
degree, but that water is saturated with salt; this is deli- 
ciously sweet water ; probably some of the savans can 
explain the cause of its peculiar properties. We 
lingered in the spring fifteen minutes. Twenty-three 
men were at one time bobbing up and down in it endea- 
voring to sink, without success. 1 made drawings of 
this spot, and the surrounding mountains. 

If it were not for this " blessed water," it would be 
almost impossible for man to travel across these deserts ; 
the next water is at Cottonwood Springs, twenty miles 
distant. 

Twenty miles S. S. W. of us, is a high range of 
mountains ; the two centre ones were covered with snow. 
We travelled through them by a romantic pass ; the 
road was level although heavy, being composed of small 
pebbles, and loose sandstone. I perceived no vegetation, 
but the usual desert shrubs. In the bosom of these 
mountains we came to a spring of clear cold water, 
near which grew luxuriantly, cottonwood, acacias, and 
a kind of willow in full bloom. We encamped on 
tolerably good grass. 

We have before us another Jornada of forty miles 
for to-morrow's work. 

I collected from the acacias about an ounce of good 
"gum arabic." I think it is to all appearance the same 
tree which produces it in the West Indies. 

Slst.—We made an early start this morning, and 
commenced ascending to a high pass, in a rocky range 
of lofty mountains, studded with pine, and cedars ; the 
road was very heavy, with loose cobble-stones, and sand. 
The ascent occupied four hours. We halted at about a 



232 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR "WEST. 

mile on the other side, and found a spring of good 
water. 

We met encamped here. Colonel Heese's train, from 
San JBernandino, bound for Great Salt Lake City. They 
were in a most distressed state. They had lost a great 
many of their animals on the desert, and were unable 
to proceed with the whole expedition. Their wagons 
were loaded with necessaries and merchandise for the 
settlements ; they had to send to Cedar City for fresh 
animals to enable them to continue. 

I purchased a small quantity of sugar and tea from 
them, for which I paid a high price — fifty cents per lb. 
for brown sugar. 

We gave our animals a good rest, and started for 
the Jornada by a new cut off, discovered by Col. 
Reese. 

We travelled over most uncomfortable roads, the soil, 
instead of sand as heretofore, is an impalpable white 
powder, very much like pulverized limestone, sown 
with large rocks ; my eyes, although protected with a 
vail and goggles, suffered very much the whole way. 
The old road was south south east, this cut off led south 
south west. It is said, by this route, forty miles of 
travel is saved, and you escape the salt and bitter springs. 

The country is an extensive barren waste, we con- 
tinued on it until midnight, without finding a blade of 
grass. We camped until four o'clock, A. M. 

June 1st. — We started at day dawn, and have, by our 
calculation, travelled over forty miles. The snow capped 
mountains, observed on the 30th, as bearing S. S. W. 
now bear directly north. 

At three o'clock, we camped at a spring, at the foot 
of a range of high hills of pudding-stone. 



WARM MINERAL SPRINGS. 233 

The last twenty miles of tins clay's work, lias had 
a decidedly bad effect on our animals. My mule has 
been in harness yesterday and to-day, to assist the 
Mormon lady. One might, as it were, see the flesh go 
off his body — he has lost at least thirty pounds in the 
last forty-eight hours. One of our horses gave out, and 
was shot on the road, a wagon also broke down and was 
left on the road. 

On examining the spring, I found it to be strongly 
impregnated with sulphur and iron ; it is a very pleasant 
mineral water, although very warm ; the thermometer 
indicated a temperature of 90,° while, when exposed to 
the atmosphere, it sunk to 65° — at six o'clock, P. M. 

2d. — Our road, during the last twenty miles, lay 
along the dry bed of a creek, until we came to a high 
range of volcanic rock, where we pushed our way through 
an intricate pass to the spring which is on the road, 
immediately after emerging from the canon. 

The ground on which the spring is situated, is rather 
elevated, the earth is elastic to the tread, and almost 
any where near it, you can get water by digging eighteen 
inches. This water is also slightly impregnated with 
iron. 



234: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXXYI. 

Peg-leg Smith — Gold Explorers — Enter upon the Desert — Road strewn with Dead 
Oxen — Poisoned Atmosphere — Deserted Wagons and Horses — Howling Wilderness — 
Excessive Heat — Bitter Springs — Polluted by Dead Animals — Bunch Grass — Reflec- 
tions — Mohahve River — Deserts Surmounted — Horses give Out — On Foot — Dig for 
Water in the Sand — Pleasant Weather — Snowy Mountains — Crossing of theMohahvo 
River — Agave Americana — Cajon pass Sierra Nevada — Descent into the Valley of 
San Bernandino — Arrival at San Bernandino — Variations of the Compass. 

While encamped on this spot we met a party of gold ex- 
plorers from Los Angeles. They had been down on the 
Colorado, looking for gold, but had been unsuccessful. 
They were under the command of a man with one leg, 
known as " Peg-leg Smith," a celebrated mountaineer. 

He told me he had been several times across the con- 
tinent, and had been in this part of the world for some 
years. 

He sa} T she crossed the Rocky Mountains in 1824 — 30 
years ago. He is a w T eather-beaten old chap, and tells 
some improbable tales. They are on their way back, 
and w r ill travel with, us ; they comprise ten men, all 
mounted on males. 

To-day two more of our horses gave out ; one of them 
belongs to the wagon which contained my baggage. 
Mr. Peg-leg Smith tells me these are called Kingstone 
Springs. I made drawings of the mountains which are 
near them ; they are curiously formed land marks, and 
may be useful to future travellers. We have another 
terrible Jornada to pass, a distance of fifty miles. 



ON THE DESERT. 235 

I hardly think we shall get over it without leaving some 
of our animals. 

At 3 o'clock we started ; our course was south west, 
over a new country. Reese's train was the first who 
had ventured ; none of our party had ever been over, 
and I never want to traverse it again. 

In travelling over the vast prairies and mountains it is 
well that the range of our vision has certain limits. If 
we could take within scope of our sight, the whole ex- 
tent of the distance to be travelled, we should most proba- 
bly give up the original intention as one of the impo- 
sibilities; a "wise Providence has ordained otherwise. 
The distance is bounded frequently by high ranges of 
mountains, which cut off the perspective, or the atmo- 
sphere between the eye and the object produces an aerial 
effect, which obscures like a curtain, the far spread waste, 
inspiring the wearied traveller with fresh and renewed 
energy. 

" So doth the untrod distance still delude us." 

This was decidedly the worst ground I had ever travel- 
led. After 20 miles ride, I saw in the distance, what I 
took to be a lake, and none of the party knew better. It 
was an extensive bed of pure white sand, probably fif- 
teen miles in diameter, and may have been once the bed 
of a lake. Our road lay directly over it, and we proceed- 
ed slowly, and with much difficulty ; at midnight we 
rested ourtmimals. 

3rd. At 4 o'clock we were on the road again. Car- 
casses ot dead horses and oxen, strewed the way. Some 
were left to die, and others still warm, although dead. In 
the space of one mile 1 counted 40 dead oxen and cows ; 
the air was foully impregnated with the effluvia arising 



236 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

from them. We also passed six deserted wagons, chairs, 
tables, and feather beds which were left on the road in 
greater quantities than on the first desert. 

At noon we arrived at Bitter Springs, the grounds 
about which are strewn with dead animals, and the pol- 
luted atmosphere at this time, one o'clock, P. M., ranges 
at 95° in the shade of our wagons, and is nearly 
unbearable. 

This is a howling, barren wilderness ; not a single tree 
or shrub for the last fifty miles, nor is there one in sight 
now. I did not observe during the last day's travel, a 
lizard or any sign of animal or insect life. There was 
plenty of food for wolves, but they dare not venture so 
far from water. 

These springs are not bitter, but possess a brackish 
taste. There are small springs in different places ; the 
largest admitted one horse at a time to drink, the rest 
would have to wait until the water was replenished from 
the earth. 

While I write of the sterile and barren desert, over 
which I have travelled, I cannot but contemplate w T ith 
admiration the goodness of the Almighty, in placing at 
intervals, food and water for the sustenance of our ani- 
mals. 

Along the whole road there is not a blade of grass for 
a distance of fifty miles ; but in the immediate vicinity of 
this spring there are hundreds of acres of the best 
quality of bunch grass ; there is, apparently^ the same 
sandy barren soil, not deriving any nourishment from 
the spring, which is a mile away. 

Without the watchful care of Divine Providence, man 
would be unable successfully to traverse these deserts. 

June Mh. — We left camp at 5^ P. M., and camped at 



APPKOACH TO CIVILIZATION. 237 

8 o'clock this morning: 5th, encamped on the Mohahve 
River. We made 31 miles since last evening. 

I return grateful thanks to the Omnipotent for con- 
ducting me safely over the mountains of snow, and the 
dangers of the desert wilderness. 

We may now consider the real perils of the journey 
past. San Bernandino is ninety miles S. W. of us. In 
.four days, I trust we shall arrive in good health and con- 
dition. 

Yesterday two horses gave out. Our Mormon lady 
is the sub-tenant of one of our wagons ; her own was so 
heavy as to wear out the animals, she was obliged to 
leave it on the road. My poor mule is only a shadow 
of himself, I walked about fifteen miles yesterday, to 
relieve him. He has now good grass for his supper. 

When we struck the Mohahve River, it appeared to 
be only a dry bed of sand, with a few pools of water 
about six inches deep. We were very grateful that we 
found any at all, as our animals were suffering very 
much for the want of it. 

Cottonwood and willows grow abundantly near the 
banks. The sight of vegetation is refreshing, and indi- 
cates our approach to a country more adapted for the 
purposes of man. 

We left camp at four o'clock, in hopes of finding a 
better camp-ground. 

We travelled thirteen miles through loose deep sand, 
when, turning again to the river, we found a large slug- 
gish pool of water, twenty-five feet in diameter, and one 
foot deep in the bed of the river, which sinks and rises 
in the sand for many miles. 

Good bunch grass was here in abundance, and our 
animals are faring sumptuously. 



238 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

,.The flowering willow (a dwarf), is the only tree now 
visible. Thermometer, at day-light, 60°. A strong gale 
of wind is blowing from the north. 

We have been highly favored with pleasant weather 
during our journey across these deserts, with the excep- 
tion of a few hours at mid-day : the temperature has 
been delightful, quite opposite to what I had anticipated. 

6th. — We left camp this morning, and continued along 
the dry bed of the Mohahve River for fifteen miles, 
when we halted. We dug holes in the sand, and found 
good pure water. 

Our camp-ground is surrounded with fine large cotton- 
woods, and plenty of bunch grass on the benches near. 

1th. — We were on the road at an early hour this 
morning. We struck across a sandy desert, of about ten 
miles, and approached the river again, but found no 
water. We continued along, and at noon halted about 
five miles further up, with clover, grass, and water in a 
little pool on the road. 

The thermometer at daylight this morning, was 
down to 40°. Large fires were very comfortable. In 
the last forty-eight hours, there has been a variation 
of 60° of the thermometer, in the shade. 

The weather is more like October than June. 

Two high snowy mountains, bearing S. S. W., almost 
immediately on our course, indicate our approach to the 
Nevada Mountains. 

At five o'clock, we encamped within five miles of the 
crossing of the Mohahve River. Abundance of good 
red clover, grass and plenty of water. 

We travelled thirty miles this day. 

8th. — At daylight this morning our camp was in 
active preparation for departure. The temperature 



CAJ0N PASS IN THE SIEEEA NEVADA. 239 

55°, and delightful weather. After an early breakfast, 
we rode through a beautiful grove of cotton wood, with 
willow undergrowth. Rose trees in full bloom, with 
hundreds of other beautiful flowers. This is a fairy land, 
indeed. What a contrast to the desert of a few hours 
ago ! Grape vines hang gracefully from the branches 
of lofty trees, while the air resounds with the songs of 
birds.' I noticed numbers of doves, a species of quail 
with a topknot (the California quail), herons, and 
ducks in great numbers on the river. 

We crossed the river, which at this place was a run- 
ning stream, about two hundred yards wide, and fringed 
with cottonwood and willow trees. After leaving the 
river, we commenced to ascend gradually to another 
desert, of seventeen miles. The last five miles was 
through a forest of muskale {Agave Americana), which 
grow to an immense size ; some as large as the greatest 
oak tree I ever saw. This is a curious tree, the trunk is 
cylindrical, as if it were turned ; its limbs are leafless, 
except at their extremities, on which grow long narrow 
leaves, with a sharp prickle at the end. These trees 
assume the most fantastic forms. At noon we arrived 
at the summit of the Cajon Pass, in the Sierra Nevada 
the descent from which is on a saddle or spur of the 
mountain, on an angle of thirty-live degrees, and the 
length of the descent is a quarter of a mile, then it 
becomes more gradual for a mile, until you reach the 
valley below. 

The view from the top of the pass, is grand beyond 
description — from it, you can see the San Bernandino 
Mountains, and numberless valleys; from this eminence 
the Tulara Pass is in view. 

The descent of our wagons occupied considerable 



240 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

time ; the team was in front, but the whole force of the 
men were attached to long ropes at the end of the 
wagon, to prevent its too rapid descent; the surface of 
this saddle is perfectly smooth, and a good team of 
horses easily draws up a wagon over it to the top. 
There would be no difficulty for two steam engines to 
propel a train of cars up this natural inclined plain, 
while the road from Great Salt Lake to San Bernandino, 
eight hundred and fifty miles, could be laid without any 
grading ; the passes through the mountains being per- 
fectly level, and well adapted for railroad purposes — 
while the deserts are almost perfect plains. 

After descending into the valley, the road to San Ber- 
nandino leads through a wide level canon, in which 
grow spontaneously abundance of wild oats. We 
encamped, after journeying ten miles through it, with 
good water and grass. We travelled thirty-two miles 
this day. 

9th. This morning at daylight the thermometer was at 
35°. We left camp early, and continued through the 
canon, which was well timbered for twelve miles, we then 
emerged into the San Bernandino Valley, and at one 
o'clock, P. M. we all arrived safely at San Bernandino. 
I collected and preserved numerous specimens of wild 
flowers, which are yet unclassified. 

My mule is in tolerable condition, the last few camps 
where good clover and grass were obtained, improved 
him greatly. The horses have all come in very poor 
and many of them lame and broken down. 

I was kindly received by Gen. Rich, the president of 
San Bernandino, who showed me many civilities. 

San Bernandino Valley, is a tract of most fertile coun- 
try ; it was the seat of a Catholic Mission some years 



VARIATION OF COMPASS. 241 

before, but recently purchased by the Mormons for a 
settlement. 

San Bernandino City, contains about one thousand 
inhabitants, the church owns saw-mills and flouring 
mills, it is a great agricultural country. Being desirous 
of reaching the sea-board, I only remained three days 
here. I mounted my trusty mule, and rode into Los 
Angeles in twelve hours, a distance of forty-five miles, 
pretty well for an animal that had just come off the 
deserts. 

Variation of compass: — 

at Great Salt Lake City, . . 15 ' 20 " W. 

" Fillmore City, . . . . 16 ' " 

"Parowan, 19' 40" " 

" San Bernandino, . . . .13' 40"" 
" Los Angeles, . . . . 13 ' SO " " 

Immediately in the vicinity of Parowan, there are 
several mountains containing magnetic iron, which 
accounts for the great variation in that place. 



11 



24:2 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 



Journey to Los Angeles — Catholic Missions — Fields of Mustard — California Ladles — 
Morals of the People — Gamblers — Description of a " Hell " — Climate of Los Angeles 
— Delicious Fruit — California Wine — Don Manuel Domingues — Rancho — Menada — 
Breaking a Horde — Portraits of Domingues — Salt Lake — Asphaltum Lake — Hot 
Springs of San Juar de Campestrano — Analysis — Geological Examination — Remains 
of a Mastodon — Don Pio Pico — Ground Squirrels — Strychnine — Brothers Labatt — 
Their Example worthy to be Imitated. 



FIELDS OF MUSTARD. 

From San Bernandino to Los Angeles, a distance of forty- 
five miles, the road lay over one continuous field of 
wild mustard, covering the whole breadth of the valley 
of Los Angeles, and extending far up into the moun- 
tains ; it was ripe at the time I travelled through. 
Millions of acres producing many thousands of bushels, 
annually go to waste. If coal is ever found in this 
country, a mustard mill could be profitably worked. At 
present there is no water power to turn a mill, or fuel 
to propel an engine for steam works. 

CATHOLIC MISSION LOS ANGELES. 

To-day I met Mr. Hildreth, one of the brothers who 
commanded a large emigrant party, and whose unpro- 
voked and fatal attack upon the Parvain Lidians, near 



CALIFORNIA LADIES. 243 

Fillmore, caused that tribe to murder Capt. Gunnison 
and officers, a description of which I have already given. 
Mr. Hiklreth says that his brother (the commander), and 
himself had left camp to hunt, and when they returned 
they were informed of the unfortunate and premature 
attack of some of his people upon the Indians. It seems 
that a small number of Parvain Indians came into camp 
armed with bows and arrows, begging food and clothing 
at sundown. They were ordered out of camp, they re- 
fused. They were told if they gave up their bows and 
arrows they might remain, and one of the men used 
force to obtain the bow from an Indian. In the scuffle 
the American was wounded, whereupon, without any 
further provocation, a number of rifles were discharged 
at the Indians, killing several, among whom was an old 
chief. Capt. Hildreth at once raised camp and proceeded 
on his journey for fear of the consequences. This fatal 
event would not have occurred if Capt. Hildreth had 
been in camp, and he lamented the occurrence. 

The California ladies are generally brunettes ; some 
of them with whom I became acquainted were most 
beautiful and accomplished. Bonnets are unknown. 
During the morning their magnificent tresses are 
allowed to hang at full length down their backs. I 
have seen suits of hair at least three feet long, waving 
gracefully around a well-formed neck. In the evening 
a great deal of care and pains are taken to curl and plait 
it. When they go out, a simple mantilla of black satin 
or silk, sometimes of colored silk, is gracefully thrown 
over their heads ; they invariably carry a large fan. 
The most costly material is used for dresses, and the 
richest and most expensive shawls may be seen worn by 
the ladies in Los Angeles. Society is very select among 



244: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

the better classes, although there are but few American 
families residing there. 

Alas ! for the morals of the people at large ; it was 
the usual salutation in the morning, " "Well, how many 
murders were committed last night ?" — " Only four — 
three Indians and a Mexican." Sometimes three, often 
two, but almost every night while I was there, one mur- 
der, at least, was committed. It became dangerous to 
walk abroad after night. A large number of American 
gamblers frequented the principal hotels, and induced 
the Californians to risk their money at all the famous 
games of monte, roulette, poker, faro, etc. 

When I arrived at San Francisco, I had the curiosity 
to enter one of the most frequented " hells," to see the 
process of winning and loosing money. The building 
selected by the gentleman who accompanied me, was a 
celebrated one in Clay street. An orchestra of thirty-five 
musicians, were performing fashionable operatic airs ; 
following the sound, we were introduced into the saloon, 
which was brilliantly illuminated ; it was truly an impos- 
ing sight. There must have been over fifty tables, at 
which presided most beautiful women, dealing out cards, 
or whirling around a roulette table ; at some might have 
been seen old gentlemen with white hair, to all ap- 
pearance respectable, and whose proper place seemed 
to me, to be a magistrate's bench, or a judge's forum. 
Few or no words are spoken at the table ; men silently 
place their gold on a card, and before a second expires, 
it is swept away ; once out of many times, it is doubled by 
the player ; it remains and he wins : a second time fortune 
favors, it doubles again ; the insatiate vice of selfishness, 
not satisfied with eight times what he originally staked, 
leaves his pile, building castles in the air with the itn- 



FRUITS OF LOS ANGELES. 245 

aginary proceeds of his winnings — when in the twinkle 
of an eye, a gentle sweep from the smiling syren, 
dissipates his dreams of fortune, and he retires from the 
hell penniless in reality. Hundreds of men who have 
acquired by hard work and industry, a little fortune at 
the mines, and come to town to purchase a bill of 
exchange to send to their families, are induced to visit 
one of these places, and in an hour he has lost the labor 
of months, leaving his family anxiously awaiting re- 
mittances which they are doomed never to receive. 

These native Californians have been known to borrow 
money at the enormous rate of six per cent, a month, 
compound interest, and give their ranchos as collaterals, 
on purpose to gamble with ; many who once were rich, 
are now reduced to beggary from this cause ; the com- 
pound interest accumulating so fast, that unable to meet 
it, the mortgage is foreclosed, and a valuable property 
sacrificed to the usurious practices of those who call 
themselves men, for one twentieth part of its real 
value. 

The climate is delightful. The pine-apple, grapes, 
figs and oranges of the tropics, grow alongside of the 
pears, peaches and apples, of the temperate regions. 
The most delicious grapes I ever tasted, are cultivated 
in large quantities in Los Angeles. Hundreds of tons are 
annually shipped to San Francisco ; peaches, delicious 
pears, etc., and, in fact, the fruit is cultivated purposely to 
ship. It yields a good profit and a large income. The 
vineyards are set out in drills six feet apart, each vine 
is trained to an upright position supported by rods, until 
they acquire age. The usual price for grapes was three 
dollars a hundred pounds as they are on the vines, to be 
plucked and boxed at the expense of the purchaser, 



24:6 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

otlier fruit is also sold by the pound on the tree. 
Many proprietors have permanent engagements with 
San Francisco merchants, to sell annually the produce 
of their vineyards and orchards. 

Wine of a superior kind is made in Los Angeles, 
it is white and dry like the Hockhiemer or Rhenish. 
A superior article is worth twenty-five dollars for 
eighteen gallons. 

Don Manuel Domingues, a noble specimen of a Span- 
ish gentleman, owns a very large tract of land in Los 
Angeles county. The San Gabriel, and Los Angeles 
Rivers run through it, making the property very valua- 
ble. It adjoins the large rancho of Mr. Stearns. It 
was confirmed by the United States government during 
my short residence at his hospitable mansion, and I 
painted a large portrait of him to celebrate the event, 
with the letters patent of his property in his hand. I 
was prostrated at this gentleman's house by a severe 
attack of brain fever, superinduced by exposure in travel- 
ling over the hot deserts of sand, between Salt Lake and 
San Bernandino. His good, kind-hearted wife, Donna 
Gracia, paid me all the attentions and devotion of a 
mother. For ten days I was delirious, during that time 
she hardly left my bedside. Doctor Brinkerhoff who 
resided with them, volunteered his medical advice. To 
their combined skill and care I owe my final recovery. 

I was taken ill the very day I got out to their ran- 
cho. If I had been ill in Los Angeles, where I had been 
residing previously, I should have died for want of at- 
tentions which money could not have procured. 

I also painted the portraits of Donna Gracia, and one 
of her daughters. 

Don Manuel has several brothers, living at short dis- 



DON MANUEL DOMINGUES. 247 

• 

tances from each other ; they have all large families of 
grown sous and daughters, who meet alternately at 
each other's houses, when music and dancing is indulged 
in with unalloyed pleasure. Young gentlemen from 
town often drive out to spend an evening, and the four 
weeks I spent there, speaking Spanish and dancing with 
the beautiful senoritas, conduced much to restore me 
to the habits of civilized lite, which a voyage of nine 
months, across the continent had almost made me 
forget. 

Dan Manuel has an immense number of oxen, sheep 
and horses. His menada is said to contain the 
finest riding animals in California ; and it is only by 
great persuasion that he will sell a choice horse. While 
I was there, I saw the process of breaking a horse to the 
saddle. A native Californian lassoes the animal he 
intends to break, and brings him out of the menada. 
One end of the lasso he ties around the nose of the horse ; 
a blanket is strapped on his back by a strong surcingle ; 
he then jumps on him, and introducing his knees under 
the surcingle, he is now firmly seated. On his feet are 
immense spurs; he touches the horse with them, and 
off he bounds with the speed of the wind, his rider 
guiding him with perfect ease. Now he plunges — see 
him rearing ! but his master is on him, and his efforts to 
dismount him are unavailing. After he is exercised in 
this manner for an hour, he is turned into pasture, 
picketed, and not suffered to run with the menada after- 
wards. 

The mares are of comparatively little worth ; they 
are never used as beasts of burthen, or for riding ; they 
are kept fur breeding purposes. I have seen a magnifi- 
cent animal sell for forty dollars, while geldings, not 
superior in quality, brought two hundred dollars. 



248 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

On this rancho, towards San Pedro, is a salt lake, 
which was being worked by a company of gentlemen. 
The salt is of superior quality, and brings a good price 
in Los Angeles. 

On this same place, near the shores of the Pacific 
Ocean, there is a lake of bitumen or asphaltum, used 
almost altogether in Los Angeles, as covering for the 
roofs of houses. In winter it does very well, but the 
dropping of hot pitch from the eaves of the houses in 
hot weather, is not agreeable. Large quantities of it are, 
in consequence, on the side- walks, which, in warm wea- 
ther, acts like bird-lime ; for if you meet a friend, and 
stop accidentally on it, there you both are fixed for the 
moment. Gentlemen's clothing is frequently spoiled 
by this material. It is highly inflammable ; an excellent 
gas might be obtained from it. I have seen it used on 
steamboats, to get up steam quickly. 

The mission of San Juan de Campestrano is not far 
from this rancho. Near it are the celebrated hot springs 
of that name. 

For the following analysis, I am indebted to Dr. Win. 
P. Reynolds, whom I met on the steamer to San Fran- 
cisco : — 

Sulphur, 40 

Nitre, 11 

Ammonia, . 7.5 

Potassa, 9.3 

Lime, 7.2 

Phosphorus, fi 

Iron, 13 

Soda, 6 

100 

These hot springs of San Juan de Campestrano excel 
all others in the neighborhood (and there are many), in 
regard to their medicinal virtues, both from their chemi- 



AUTHOR DISCOVERS REMAINS OF A MASTODON. 249 

cal combinations and the results obtained by tlieir heal- 
ing qualities in all those diseases for which the chaly- 
beates are reported to cure. 

In making geological examinations on Domingues' 
land, I had the curiosity to dig into a mound of earth 
raised up several feet from the surface, and not fifty 
yards from the dwelling-house. I found several pieces 
of large size petrified bone, too colossal for horses or 
oxen. Procuring a pick-axe, I penetrated further, and 
was gratified in exhuming portions of a mastodon. 
I collected four perfect teeth ; the largest weighed six 
pounds. I destroyed several with my axe, before I 
realized their value. Portions of the tibia I also got 
out perfect. These interesting antediluvian relics I took 
with me to Los Angeles, where I met Mr. Trask, the 
State geologist of California. At his request I presented 
two specimens of the teeth to the State Geological 
Society, the rest Mr. Trask took charge of for me, to 
deliver in California. I have never seen a report of my 
present to the society, and when I met Mr. Trask at 
San Francisco, they had not yet been shipped from Los 
Angeles. I regret very much that I allowed them to 
leave my own possession, as I promised one of the teeth 
to Col. Fremont, and, in consequence, have not been 
able to fulfill it. 

These huge animals are granivorous, and must have 
consumed trees on the mountains ; around Los Angeles 
there is no sign of a tree, and on the vast plains in the 
centre of which I found these petrified remains, there is 
nothing but short grass and mustard. Query, how came 
the mastodon in the place I found it? did it die there? 
or was it washed down from the mountains? I leave this 
interesting investigation to more scientific minds. 

11* 



250 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

At Los Angeles, I painted the portraits of the ex-gov- 
ernor, Don Pio Pico, and several other gentlemen. 

The whole country of Southern California, especially 
in Los Angeles countv, is infested with millions of 
ground squirrels, which destroy vegetation, and are 
great nuisances to farmers, as well as to the community; 
they domesticate themselves in houses, and I have seen 
them jump on the dinner-table, overturning tumblers, etc. 
The country is overrun with them ; various methods have 
been suggested to destroy them, but without effect ; the 
most successful, however, is strychnine — large quantities 
of which are imported into California, for this express 
purpose. This virulent and active poison, for this rea- 
son, becomes an important article of trade. 

These squirrels, form the principal food of the numer- 
ous bands of degraded Indians, who live near the settle- 
ments. 

To the brothers Samuel and Joseph Labatt, mer- 
chants of Los Angeles, I am indebted for many acts of 
kindness ; men who anticipate the necessities of their 
fellow-man, and spontaneously offer money advances to 
a perfect stranger, I have not often met with, " but when 
found, I make a note of it." 

With the view of not interrupting the incidental part 
of this book, I have preferred to place at the end of it, 
several sermons, illustrating the oratorical' powers of 
Brigham Young, and some of his aposHes and counsel- 
lors, as well as the " Revelations to Joseph Smith, on 
the patriarchal order of matrimony, or plurality of 
wives," (presented to the author by his excellency), 
which is the basis of the spiritual wife system, as now 
practised by the Mormons. 



SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 251 



SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 

A REVELATION ON THE PATRIARCHAL ORDER OF MATRIMONY, 
OR PLURALITY OF WIVES. 

Given to Joseph Smith, the Seer, in Nauvoo, July 12th, 1843. 

1. Yerily, thus saith the Lord unto you my servant 
Joseph, that inasmuch as you have inquired of my hand, 
to know and understand wherein I, the Lord, justified 
my servants, Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob ; as also Moses, 
David, and Solomon, my servants, as touching the 
principle and doctrine of their having many wives and 
concubines : Behold ! and lo, I am the Lord thy God, 
and will answer thee as touching this matter : Therefore, 
prepare thy heart to receive and obey the instructions 
which I am about to give unto you ; for all those who 
have his law revealed unto them, must obey the same ; 
for behold ! I reveal unto you a new and everlasting 
covenant, and if ye abide not that covenant, then are ye 
damned ; for no one can reject this covenant, and be 
permitted to enter into my glory ; for all who will have 
a blessing at my hands, shall abide the law which was 
appointed for that blessing, and the conditions thereof, 
as was instituted from before the foundations of the 
world : and as pertaining to the new and everlasting 
covenant, it was instituted for the fullness of my glory ; 
and he that receiveth a fullness thereof, must and shall 



252 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR "WEST. 

abide the law, or he shall be damned, saith the Lord 
God. 

2. And verily I say unto you, that the conditions of 
this law are these : All covenants, contracts, bonds, 
obligations, oaths, vows, performances, connections, as- 
sociations, or expectations, that are not made and 
entered into, and sealed, by the Holy Spirit of promise, 
of him who is anointed, both as well for time and for 
all eternity, and that too most holy, by revelation and 
commandment, through the medium of mine anointed, 
whom I have appointed on the earth to hold this power 
(and I have appointed unto my servant Joseph to hold 
this power in the last days, and there is never but one 
on the earth at a time, on whom this power and the 
keys of the priesthood are conferred), are of no efficacy, 
virtue, or force, in and after the resurrection from the 
dead : for all contracts that are not made unto this end, 
have an end when men are dead. 

3. Behold ! mine house is a house of order, saith the 
Lord God, and not a house of confusion. Will I accept 
of an offering, saith the Lord, that is not made in my 
name ? Or, will I receive at your hands, that which I 
have not appointed ? And will I appoint unto you, 
saith the Lord, except it be by law, even as I and my 
Father ordained unto you, before the world was ? I am 
the Lord thy God, and I give unto you this command- 
ment, that no man shall come unto the Father, but by 
me, or by my word which is my law, saith the Lord ; 
and everything that is in the world, whether it be 
ordained of men, by thrones, or principalities, or powers, 
or things of name, whatsoever they may be, that are 
not by me, or by my word, saith the Lord, shall be 
thrown down, and shall not remain after men are dead, 



SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 253 

neither in nor after the resurrection, saith the Lord your 
God : for whatsoever things remaineth, are by me ; and 
whatsoever things are not by me, shall be shaken and 
destroyed. 

4. Therefore, if a man marry him a wife in the world, 
and he marry her not by me, nor by my word ; and he 
covenant with her so long as he is in the world, and she 
with him, their covenant and marriage is not of force 
when they are dead, and when they are out of the 
world ; therefore, they are not bound by any law when 
they are out of the world ; therefore, when they are out 
of the world, they neither marry, nor are given in mar- 
riage, but are appointed angels in heaven, which angels 
are ministering servants, to minister for those who are 
worthy of a far more, and an exceeding, and an eternal 
weight of glory ; for these angels did not abide by law, 
therefore they cannot be enlarged, but remain separately 
and singly, without examination, in their saved con- 
dition, to all eternity, and from henceforth are not Gods, 
but are angels of God for ever and ever. 

5. And again, verily I say unto you, if a man marry 
a wife, and make a covenant with her for time, and for 
all eternity, if that covenant is not by me, or by my 
word, which is my law, and is not sealed the 
Holy Spirit of promise, through him whom I have 
anointed and appointed unto this power, then it is not 
valid, neither of force, when they are out of the world, 
because they are not joined by me, saith the Lord, 
neither by my word ; when they are out of the world, 
it cannot be received there, because the angels and the 
Gods are appointed there, by whom they cannot pass; 
they cannot, therefore, inherit my glory, for my house 
is a house of order, saith the Lord God. 



254 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN '1HE FAR WEST. 

6. And again, verily I say nnto you, if a man marry 
a wife by my word, which is my law, and by the new 
and everlasting covenant, and it is sealed unto them by 
the Holy Spirit of promise, by him who is anointed, 
unto whom I have appointed this power, and the keys 
of this priesthood, and it shall be said unto them, ye 
shall come forth in the first resurrection; and if it be 
after the first resurrection, in the next resurrection ; and 
shall inherit thrones, kingdoms, principalities, and pow- 
ers, dominions, all heights and depths, then shall it be 
written in the Lamb's Book of Life, that he shall commit 
no murder whereby to shed innocent blood ; and if ye 
abide in my covenant, and commit no murder whereby 
to shed innocent blood, it shall be done unto them in all 
things whatsoever my servant hath put upon them, in 
time, and through all eternity, and shall be of full force, 
when they are out of the world ; and they shall pass 
by the angels, and the Gods, which are set there, to 
their exaltation and glory in all things, as hath been 
sealed upon their heads, which glory shall be a fullness 
and continuation of the seeds for ever and ever. 

7. Then shall they be Gods, because they have no 
end ; therefore shall they be from everlasting to ever- 
lasting, because they continue ; then shall they be above 
all, because things are subject unto them. Then shall 
they be gods, because they have all power, and the 
angels are subject unto them. 

8. Verily, verily I say unto you, except ye abide my 
law, ye cannot attain to this glory ; for straight is the 
gate, and narrow the way that leadeth unto the exaltation 
and continuation of the lives, and few there be that find 
it, because ye receive me not in the world neither do ye 
know me. But if ye receive me in the world, then 



SPIKITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 255 

shall ye know me, and shall receive your exaltation, 
that where I am, ye shall be also. This is eternal life, 
to know the only wise and true God, and Jesus Christ 
whom he hath sent. I am He. Receive ye, therefore, 
my law. Broad is the gate, and wide the way that 
leadeth to the death ; and many there are that go in 
thereat ; because they receive me not, neither do they 
abide in my law. 

9. Verily, verily I say unto you, if a man marry a 
wife according to my word, and they are sealed by the 
Holy Spirit of promise, according to mine appointment, 
and he or she shall commit any sin or transgression of 
the new and everlasting covenant whatever, and all man- 
ner of blas}3heinies, and if they commit no murder, 
wherein they shed innocent blood, — yet they shall come 
forth in the first resurrection, and enter into their exalta- 
tion, but they shall be destroyed in the flesh, and shall 
be delivered unto the buffetings of Satan, unto the day 
of redemption, saith the Lord God. 

10. The blasphemy against the Holy Ghost, which shall 
not be forgiven in the world, nor out of the world, is in 
that ye commit murder, wherein ye shed innocent blood, 
and assent unto my death, after ye have received my 
new and everlasting covenant, saith the Lord God ; and 
he that abideth not this law, can in now T ise enter into 
glory, but shall be damned, saith the Lord. 

11. I am the Lord thy God, and will give unto thee 
the law of my Holy Priesthood, as was ordained by me, 
and my Father, before the w r orld was. Abraham received 
all things, whatsoever he received, by revelation and 
commandment, by my word, saith the Lord, and hath 
entered into his exaltation, and sitteth upon his throne. 

12. Abraham received promises concerning his seed, 



256 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

and of the fruit of his loins, — from whose loins ye are, 
viz. : my servant Joseph — which were to continue, so 
long as they were iu the world ; and as touching Abra- 
ham and his seed, out of the world, they should con- 
tinue ; both in the world and out of the world should 
they continue as innumerable as the stars ; or, if ye were 
to count the sand upon the sea-shore, ye could not num- 
ber them. This promise is yours also, because ye are of 
Abraham, and the promise was made unto Abraham ; 
and by this law are the continuation of the works of my 
Father, wherein he glorifieth himself. Go ye, therefore, 
and do the works of Abraham : enter ye into my law, 
and ye shall be saved. But if ye enter not into my law, 
ye cannot receive the promises of my Father, which he 
made unto Abraham. 

13. God commanded Abraham, and Sarah gave Ha- 
gar to Abraham, to wife. And why did she do it? 
Because this was the law, and from Hagar sprang many 
people. This, therefore, was fulfilling, among other 
things, the promises. Was Abraham therefore, under 
condemnation? Verily, I say unto you, Nay', for I 
the Lord, commanded it. Abraham was commanded to 
oner his son Isaac ; nevertheless, it was written, Thou 
shalt not kill. Abraham, however, did not refuse, and 
it was accounted unto him for righteousness. 

14. Abraham received concubines, and they bare him 
children, and it was accounted unto him for righteous- 
ness, because they were given unto him, and he abode 
in my law : as Isaac also and Jacob did none other 
things than that which they were commanded ; and 
because they did none other things than that which 
they were commanded, they have entered into their 
exaltation, according to the promises and sit upon 



SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 257 

thrones , and are not angels, but are Gods. David 
also received many wives and concubines, as also 
Solomon, and Moses my servant ; as also many others 
of my servants, from the beginning of creation until 
this time ; and in nothing did they sin, save in those 
things which they received not of me. 

15. David's wives and concubines were given unto 
him, of me, by the hand of Nathan, my servant, and 
others of the prophets who had the keys of this power ; 
and in none of these things did he sin against me, save 
in the case of Uriah and his wife ; and therefore, he hath 
fallen from his exaltation, and received his portion ; 
and he shall not inherit them out of the world ; for I 
gave them unto another, saith the Lord. 

16. I am the Lord thy God, and I gave unto thee, my 
servant Joseph, an appointment, and restore all things ; 
ask what ye will, and it shall be given unto you, ac- 
cording to my word ; and as ye have asked concerning 
adultery, verily, verily I say unto you, if a man re- 
ceiveth a wife in the new and everlasting covenant, and 
if she be with another man, and I have not appointed unto 
her by the holy anointing, she hath committed adultery, 
and shall be destroyed. If she be not in the new and 
everlasting covenant, and she be with another man, she has 
committed adultery ; and if her husband be with another 
woman, and he was under a vow, he hath broken his 
vow, and hath committed adultery ; and if she hath not 
committed adultery, but is innocent, and hath not bro- 
ken her vow, and she knoweth it, and I reveal it unto you, 
my servant Joseph, then shall you have power, by the 
power of my Holy Priesthood, to take her, and give her 
unto him that hath not committed adultery, but hath 



258 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

been faithful, for he shall be made ruler over many ; for 
I have conferred upon you the keys and power of the 
priesthood, wherein I restore all things, and make known 
unto you, all things in due time. 

17. And verily, verily I say unto you, that whatsoever 
you seal on earth, shall be sealed in heaven ; and what- 
soever you bind on earth, in nry name, and by my word, 
saith the Lord, it shall be eternally bound in the hea- 
vens ; and whatsoever sins you remit on earth, shall be 
remitted eternally in the heavens ; and whoseever sins 
you retain on earth, shall be retained in heaven. 

18. And again, verily I say, whomsoever you bless, I 
will bless ; and whomsoever you curse, I will curse, saith 
the Lord ; for I, the Lord, am thy God. 

19. And again, verily I say unto you, my servant 
Joseph, that whatsoever you give on earth, and to 
whomsoever you give any one on earth, by my word, 
and according to my law, it shall be visited with bless- 
ings, and not cursings, and with my power, saith the 
Lord, and shall be without condemnation on earth, and 
in heaven ; for I am the Lord thy God, and will be with 
thee even unto the end of the world, and through all 
eternity : for verily I seal upon you your exaltation, and 
prepare a throne for you in the kingdom of my Father, 
with Abraham, your father. Behold, I have seen your 
sacrifices, and will forgive all your sins ; I have seen 
your sacrifices, in obedience to that which I have told 
you : go, therefore, and I make a way for your escape, 
as I accepted the offering of Abraham, of his son Isaac. 

20. Verily, I say unto you, a commandment I give 
unto mine handmaid, Emma Smith, your wife, whom I 
have given unto you, that she stay herself, and partake 
not of that which I commanded you to offer unto her ; 



SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 259 

for I did it, saith the Lord, to prove you all, as I did 
Abraham ; and that I might require an offering at your 
hand, by covenant and sacrifice ; and let mine hand- 
maid, Emma Smith, receive all those that have been 
given unto my servant Joseph, and who are virtuous 
and pure before me ; and those who are not pure, shall 
be destroyed, saith the Lord God ! for I am the Lord thy 
God, and ye shall obey my voice ; and I give unto my 
servant Joseph, that he shall be made ruler over many 
things, for he hath been faithful over a few things, and 
from henceforth 1 will strengthen him. 

21. And I command mine handmaid, Emma Smith, 
to abide and cleave unto my servant Joseph, and to none 
else. But if she will not abide this commandment, she 
shall be destroyed, saith the Lord ; for I am the Lord 
thy God, and will destroy her if she abide not in my 
law ; but if she will not abide this commandment, then 
shall my servant Joseph do all these things for her, even 
as he hath said ; and I will bless him, and multiply him, 
and give unto him an hundred fold in this world, of 
fathers and mothers, brothers and sisters, houses and 
lands, wives and children, and crowns of eternal lives 
in the eternal worlds. And again, verily I say, let mine 
handmaid forgive my servant Joseph his trespasses, and 
then shall she be forgiven her trespasses, wherein she 
lias trespassed against me ; and I the Lord thy God will 
bless her, and multiply her, and make her to rejoice. 

22. And again, I say, let not my servant Joseph put 
his property out of his hands, lest an enemy come and 
destroy him, for Satan seeketh to destroy ; for 1 am the 
Lord thy God, and he is my servant ; and behold ! and 
lo, I am with him, as I was with Abraham thy father, 
even unto his exaltation and glory. 



260 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

23. Now as touching the law of the priesthood, there 
are many things pertaining thereunto. Verily, if a 
man be called of my Father, as was Aaron, by mine 
own voice, and by the voice of him that sent me, and I 
have endowed him with the keys of the power of this 
priesthood, if he do anything in my name, and accord- 
ing to my law, and by my word, he will not commit 
sin, and I will justify him. Let no one, therefore, set 
on my servant Joseph ; for I will justify him ; for he 
shall do the sacrifice which I require at his hands, for 
his transgressions, saith the Lord your God. 

24. And again, as pertaining to the law of the priest- 
hood : If any man espouse a virgin, and desire to espouse 
another, and the first give her consent ; and if he espouse 
the second, and they are virgins, and have vowed to no 
other man, then is he justified ; he cannot commit adul- 
tery, for they are given unto him ; for he cannot commit 
adultery with that that belongeth unto him, and to none 
else ; and if he have ten virgins given unto him by this 
law, he cannot commit adultery, for they belong to him ; 
and they a~e given unto him — therefore is he justified. 
But if one, or either of the ten virgins, after she is 
espoused, shall be with another man, she has com- 
mitted adultery, and shall be destroyed ; for they are 
given unto him to multiply and replenish the earth, 
according to my commandment, and to fulfill the pro- 
mise which was given by my Father before the founda- 
tion of the world ; and for their exaltation in the eternal 
worlds, that they may bear the souls of men ; for herein 
is the work of my father continued, that he may be 
glorified. 

25. And again, verily, verily I say unto you, if any 
man have a wife who holds the keys of this power, and 



SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM. 261 

he teaches unto her the law of my priesthood, as per- 
taining to these things ; then shall she believe, and 
administer unto him, or she shall be destroyed, saith the 
Lord your God ; for I will destroy her ; for I will magnify 
my name upon all those who receive and abide in my 
law. Therefore, it shall be lawful in me, if she receive 
not this law, for him to receive all things whatsoever I 
the Lord his God, will give unto him, because she did 
not believe and administer unto him, according to my 
word ; and she then becomes the transgressor, and he is 
exempt from the law of Sarah, who administered unto 
Abraham according to the law, when I commanded 
Abraham to take Hagar to wife. And now, as per- 
taining to this law : Yerily, verily, I say unto you, I 
will reveal more unto you, hereafter ; therefore, let this 
suffice for the present. Behold, I am Alpha and Omega. 
Amen. 



262 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 

A DISCOURSE DELIVERED BY ELDER ORSON PRATT, IN THE 
TABERNACLE, GREAT SALT LAKE CITY. 

It is quite unexpected to me, brethren and sisters, to be 
called upon to address you this forenoon ; and still more 
so, to address you upon the principle which has been 
named, namely, a plurality of wives. 

It is rather new ground for me ; that is, I have not 
been in the habit of publicly speaking upon this subject ; 
and it is rather - new ground to the inhabitants of the 
United States, and not only to them, but to a portion of 
the inhabitants of Europe ; a portion of them have 
not been in the habit of preaching a doctrine of this 
description ; consequently, we shall have to break up 
new ground. 

It is well known, however, to the congregation before 
me, that the latter-day saints have embraced the doc- 
trine of a plurality of wives, as a part of their religious 
faith. It is not, as many have supposed, a doctrine 
embraced by them to gratify the carnal lusts and feelings 
of man ; that is not the object of the doctrine. 

We shall endeavor to set forth before this enlightened 
assembly, some of the causes why the Almighty has 
revealed such a doctrine, and why it is considered a part 
and portion of our religious faith. And I believe that they 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 263 

will not, under our present form of government (I mean 
the government of the United States), try us for treason for 
believing and practising our religious notions and ideas. 
I think, if I am not mistaken, that the Constitution gives 
the privilege to all the inhabitants of this country, of 
the free exercise of their religious notions, and the free- 
dom of their faith, and the practice of it. Then, if it 
can be proven to a demonstration, that the latter-day 
saints have actually embraced, as a portion of theii 
religion, the doctrine of a plurality of wives, it is consti- 
tutional. And should there ever be laws enacted by 
this government to restrict them from the free exercise 
of this part of their religion, such laws must be uncon- 
stitutional. 

But, says the objector, we cannot see how this doc- 
trine can be embraced as a matter of religion and faith ; 
we can hardly conceive how it can be embraced only as 
a kind of domestic concern, something that pertains to 
domestic pleasures, in no way connected with religion. 
In reply, we will show you that it is incorporated as a 
part of our religion, aud necessary for our exaltation to 
the fullness of the Lord's glory in the eternal world. 
Would you like to know the reasons ? Before we get 
through, we will endeavor to tell you why we consider 
it an essential doctrine to glory and exaltation, to our 
fullness of happiness in the world to come. 

We will first make a few preliminary remarks in 
regard to the existence of man, to his first existence in 
his first estate ; and then say something in relation to 
his present state, and the bearing which it has upon his 
next or future state. 

The "Mormons" have a peculiar doctrine in regan* 
to our pre-existence, different from the views of the 



264: TRAVELS AND ADVENTUKES IN THE FAB WEST. 

Christian world, so called, who do not believe that man 
had a pre-existence. It is believed, by the religious 
world, that man, both body and spirit, begins to live 
about the time that he is born into this world, or a little 
before ; that then is the beginning of life. They believe 
that the Lord, by a direct act of creation, formed, in the 
first place, man out of the dust of the ground ; and they 
believe that man is possessed of both body and spirit, by 
the union of which he became a living creature. Sup- 
pose we admit this doctrine concerning the formation of 
the body from the dust, then how was the spirit formed ? 
Why, says one, we suppose it was made by a direct act 
of creation, by the Almighty Himself; that He moulded 
the spirit of man, formed and finished it in a proper like- 
ness to inhabit the tabernacle He had made out of the 
dust. 

Have you any account of this in the Bible ? Do the 
Scriptures declare that the spirit was formed at the time 
the tabernacle was made ? No. All the tabernacles of 
the children of men that were ever formed, from remote 
generations, from the days of Adam to this time, have 
been formed out of the earth. We are of the earth, 
earthy. The tabernacle has been organized according 
to certain principles and laws of organization, with 
bones, and flesh, and sinews, and skin. Now, where do 
you suppose all these tabernacles got their spirits ? 
Does the Lord make a new spirit every time a tabernacle 
is made ? If so, the work of creation, according to the 
belief of Christendom, did not cease on the seventh day. 
If we admit their views, the Lord must be continually 
making spirits to inhabit all the tabernacles of the 
children of men ; He must make something like one 
thousand millions of spirits every century ; He must be 



CELESTIAL MAEKIAGE. 265 

working at it every day, for there are many hundreds 
of individuals being born into the world every day. 
Does the Lord create a new spirit every time a new 
tabernacle comes into the world? That does not look 
reasonable, nor God-like. 

But how is it, you inquire ? "Why the fact is, that 
being that animates this body, that gives life and en- 
ergy, and power to move, to act, and to think : that be- 
ing that dwells within this tabernacle is much older 
than what the tabernacle is. That spirit that now 
dwells within each man, and each woman, of this vast 
assembly of people, is more than a thousand years old, 
and I would venture to say, that it is more than five 
thousand years old. 

But how was it made ? when was it made ? and by 
whom was it made ? If our spirits existed thousands of 
years ago — if they began to exist — if there were a be- 
ginning to their organization, by what process was this 
organization carried on ? Through what medium,- and 
by what system of laws ? "Was it by a direct creation 
of the Almighty ? Or were we framed according to 
a certain system of laws, in the same manner as our 
tabernacles ? It' we were to reason from analogy — if we 
admit analogical reasoning in the question, what would 
we say ? We should say, that our spirits were formed by 
generation, the same as the body or tabernacle of flesh 
and bones. But what says revelation upon the subject ? 
We will see whether revelation and analogy will agree. 

We read of a certain time when the corner stones of 
the earth were laid, and the foundations thereof were 
made sure — of a certain time when the Lord began to 
erect this beautiful and glorious habitation, the earth ; 
then they had a time of joy. I do not know whether 

12 



2f)6 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

they had instruments of music, or whether they were 
engaged in the dance; but one thing is certain, they 
had great joy, and the heavens resounded with their 
shouts ; yea, the Lord told Job, that all the sons of God 
shouted tor joy, and the morning stars sang together, 
when the foundations of this globe were laid. 

The sons of God, recollect, shouted for joy, because 
there was a beautiful habitation being built, so that 
they could get tabernacles, and dwell thereon ; they ex- 
pected the time — they looked forward to the period ; 
and it was joyful to them to reflect, that the creation 
was about being formed, the corner stone of it was 
laid, on which they might, in their times, and in their 
seasons, and in their generations, go forth and receive 
tabernacles for their spirits to dwell in. Do you bring 
it home to yourselves, brethren and sisters? Do 
you realize that you and I were there? Can you 
bring it to your minds that you and I were among that 
happy number that shouted for joy when this creation 
was made? Says one, I don't recollect it. No wonder! 
for your recollection is taken from you, because you are 
in a tabernacle that is earthly ; and all this is right and 
necessary. The same is written of Jesus Christ himself, 
who had to descend below all things. Though he had 
wisdom to assist in the organization of this world ; 
though it was through him, as the great leader of all 
these sons of God, the earth w r as framed, and framed too, 
by the assistance of all his younger brethren — yet we 
find, with all that great and mighty power he possessed, 
and the great and superior wisdom that w r as in his 
bosom, that after all his judgment had to be taken 
away; in his humiliation, his reason, his intelli- 
gence, his knowledge, and the power that he was for- 



CELESTIAL MAEEIAGE. 267 

merly in possession of, vanished from him as lie entered 
into the infant tabernacle. lie was obliged to begin 
down at the lowest principles of knowledge, and ascend 
upward by degrees, receiving grace for grace, truth for 
truth, knowledge for knowledge, until he was filled with 
all the fullness of the Father, and was capable of ruling, 
governing, and controlling all things, having ascended 
above all things. Just so with us; we that once lifted 
up our united voices as sons and daughters of God, and 
shouted for joy at the laying of the foundation of this 
earth, have come here and taken tabernacles, after the 
pattern of our elder brother : and in our humiliation — 
for it is humiliation to be deprived of knowledge we 
once had, and the power we once enjoyed — in our hu- 
miliation, just like our elder brother, our judgment is 
taken away. Do we not read also in the Bible, that 
God is the Father of our spirits? 

We have ascertained that we have had a previous ex- 
istence. We find that Solomon, that wise man, says 
that when the body returns to the dust, the spirit re- 
turns to God who gave it. Now all of this congrega- 
tion very well know, that if we never existed there, we 
could not return there. I could not return to Califor- 
nia. Why? Because I never have been there. If 
you never were with the Father, the same as Jesus was 
before the foundation of the world, you never could 
return there, any more than I could to the West Indies, 
where I have never been. But if we have once been 
there, then we can see the force of the saying of the 
wise man, that the spirit returns to God who gave it 
— it goes back where it once was. 

Much more evidence might be derived in relation to 
thi3 subject, even from the English translation of the 



268 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Bible ; but I do not feel disposed to dwell too long upon 
any particular testimony ; suffice it to say, that the 
Prophet Joseph Smith's translation of the fore part of 
the book of Genesis is in print, and is exceedingly plain 
upon this matter. In this inspired translation we find 
the pre-existence of man clearly laid down, and that the 
spirits of all men, male and female, did have an exis- 
tence, before man was formed out of the dust of the 
ground. But who was their Father ? I have already 
quoted a saying that God is the Father of our spirits. 

In one sense of the word, there are more Gods than 
one ; and in another sense there is but one God. The 
scriptures speak of more Gods than one. Moses was 
called a God to Aaron, in plain terms ; and our Saviour, 
when speaking upon this subject, says, " If the Scrip- 
tures called them Gods unto whom the word of God 
came, why is it that you should seek to persecute me, 
and kill me, because I testify that I am the son of God ?" 
This in substance was the word of our Saviour ; those to 
whom the word "of God came, are called Gods, accord- 
ing to his testimony. All these beings of course are 
one, the same as the Father and the Son are one. The 
Son is called God, and so is the Father, and in some 
places the Holy Ghost is called God. They are one in 
power, in wisdom, in knowledge, and in the inheritance 
of celestial glory ; they are one in their works ; they 
possess all things, and all things are subject to them ; 
they act in unison ; and if one has power to become the 
Father of spirits, so has another ; if one God can pro- 
pagate his species, and raise up spirits after his own 
image and likeness, and call them his sons and daugh- 
ters, so can all other Gods that become like him, do the 
same thing ; consequently, there will be many Fathers, 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 269 

and there will be many families, and many sons and 
daughters; and they will be the children of those glo- 
rified celestial beings that are counted worthy to be 
Gods. 

Here let me bring for the satisfaction of the saints, 
the testimony of the vision given to our Prophet and 
Revelator Joseph Smith, and Sidney liigdon, on the 
25th day of February, 1832. They were engaged in 
translating the New Testament, by inspiration ; and 
while engaged in this great work, they came to the 
29th verse of the 5th chapter of John, which was given 
to them in these words — " they who have done good, in 
the resurrection of the just ; and they who have done 
evil in the resurrection of the unjust." This being 
given in different words from the English translation, 
caused them to marvel and wonder ; and they lifted up 
their hearts in prayer to God, that He would show them 
why it was that this should be given to them in a differ- 
ent manner ; and behold, the visions of heaven opened 
before them. They gazed upon the eternal worlds, and 
saw things before this world was made. They saw the 
spiritual creation who were to come forth and take upon 
themselves bodies; and they saw things as they are to 
be in the future ; they saw the celestial, terrestrial, and 
telestial worlds, as well as the sufferings of the ungodlj r ; 
all passed before him in this great and glorious vision. 
And while they were yet gazing upon things as they 
were before the world was made, they were commanded 
to write, saying, " this is the testimony, last of all, 
which we give of him, that he lives; for we saw him, 
even on the right hand of God ; and we heard the 
voice bearing record that he is the Only Begotten of the 
Father ; that by him, and through him, and of him, the 



270 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

worlds are and were created; and the inhabitants 
thereof are begotten sons and daughters unto God." 
Notice this last expression, " the inhabitants thereof are 
begotten sons and daughters unto God," (meaning the 
different worlds that have been created and made). 
Notice, this does not say, that God, whom we serve and 
worship, was actually the Father Himself, in His own 
person, of all these sons and daughters of the different 
worlds ; but they " are begotten sons and daughters unto 
God ;" that is, begotten by those who are made like 
Him, after His image, and in His likeness ; they begat 
sons and daughters, and begat them unto God, to 
inhabit these different worlds we have been speaking of. 
But more of this, if we have time, before we get 
through. 

We now come to the second division of our subject, 
or the entrance of these spirits upon their second 
estate, or their birth and existence in mortal taberna- 
cles. We are told that among this great family of 
spirits, some were more noble and great than others, 
having more intelligence. 

Where do you read that ? says one. Out of the Book 
of Abraham, translated from the Egyptian papyrus by 
the Prophet Joseph Smith. Among the great and 
numerous family of spirits — " the begotten sons and 
daughters of God " — there are some more intelligent 
than others ; and the Lord showed unto Abraham " the 
intelligences that were organized before the world was ; 
and among all these there were many of the noble and 
great ones." And God said to Abraham, " thou art one 
of them, thou wast chosen before thou wast born." 
Abraham was chosen before he was born. Here then, 
is knowledge, if we had time to notice it, upon the doc- 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 271 

trine of election. However, I may just remark, it does 
not mean unconditional election to eternal life of a cer- 
tain class, and the rest doomed to eternal damnation. 
Suffice it to say, that Abraham and many others of the 
great and noble ones in the family of spirits, were cho- 
sen before they were born, for certain purposes, to 
bring about certain works, to have the privilege of 
coming upon the stage of action, among the host of men, 
in favorable circumstances. Some came through good 
and holy parentages, to fulfill certain things the Lord 
decreed should come to pass, from before the foundations 
of the world. 

The Lord has ordained that these spirits should come 
here and take tabernacles by a certain law, through a 
certain channel ; and that law is the law of marriage. 
There are a great many things that I will pass by ; I 
perceive that if I were to touch upon all these princi- 
ples, the time allotted for this discourse would be too 
short, therefore I am under the necessity of passing by 
many things in relation to these spirits in their first 
estate, and the laws that, governed them there, and come 
to their second estate. 

The Lord ordained marriage between male and female 
as a law through which spirits should come here and 
take tabernacles, and enter into the second state of exis- 
tence. The Lord Himself solemnized the first marriage 
pertaining to this globe, and pertaining to flesh and 
bones here upon this earth. I do not say pertaining to 
mortality; tor when the first marriage was celebrated, 
no mortality was there. The first marriage that we 
have any account of, was between two immortal beings 
— old father Adam and old mother Eve ; they were 
immortal beings ; death had no dominion, no power 



272 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

over them ; they were capable of enduring for ever and 
ever, in their organization. Had they fulfilled the law, 
and kept within certain conditions and bounds, their 
tabernacles would never have been seized by death ; 
death entered entirely hy sin, and sin alone. This mar- 
riage was celebrated between two immortal beings. 
For how long ? Until death ? No. That was entirely 
out of the question ; there could have been no such 
thing in the ceremony. 

"What would you consider, my hearers, if a marriage 
was to be celebrated between two beings not subject to 
death ? Would you consider them joined together for a 
certain number of years, and that then all their cove- 
nants were to cease for ever, and the marriage contract 
be dissolved ? Would it look reasonable and consistent ? 
No. Every heart would say that the work of God is 
perfect in and of itself, and inasmuch, as sin had not 
brought imperfection upon the globe, what God joined 
together could not be dissolved, and destroyed, and torn 
asunder by any power beneath the celestial world, con- 
sequently it was eternal ; the ordinance of union was 
eternal ; the sealing of the great Jehovah upon Adam 
and Eve was eternal in its nature, and was never insti- 
tuted for the purpose of being overthrown and brought 
to an end. It is known that the " Mormons " are a 
peculiar people about marriage ; we believe in marry- 
ing, not only for a time, but for all eternity. This is a 
curious idea, says one, to be married for all eternity. It 
is not curious at all ; for when we come to examine the 
Scriptures, we find that the very first example set for 
the whole human family, as a pattern instituted for us 
to follow, was not instituted until death, for death had 
no dominion at that time ; but it was an eternal bless- 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 273 

ing pronounced upon our first parents. I have not time 
to explain further the marriage of Adam and Eve, but 
will pass on to their posterity. 

It is true, that they became fallen, but there is a 
redemption. But some may consider that the redemp- 
tion only redeemed us in part, that is, merely from some 
of the effects of the fall. But this is not the case ; every 
man ami woman must see at once that a redemption 
must include a complete restoration of all the privileges 
lost by the fall. 

Suppose, then, that the fall was of such a nature as to 
dissolve the marriage covenant, by death — which is not 
necessary to admit, for the covenant was sealed previous 
to the fall, and we have no account that it was dissolved 
■ — but suppose this was the case, would not the redemp- 
tion be equally broad as the fall, to restore the posterity 
of Adam back to that which they lost ? And if Adam 
and Eve were married for all eternity, the ceremony 
was an everlasting ordinance, that they twain should be 
one flesh for ever. If you and I should ever be account- 
ed worthy to be restored back from our fallen and 
degraded condition to the privileges enjoyed before the 
fall, should we not have an everlasting marriage seal, as 
it was with our first progenitors? If we had no other 
reasons in all the Bible, this would be sufficient to settle 
the case at once in the mind of every reflecting man and 
woman, that inasmuch as the fall of man has taken away 
any privileges in regard to the union of male and female, 
these privileges must be restored in the redemption of 
man, or else it is not complete. 

What is the object of this union? is the next question. 
We are told the object of it: it is clearly expressed; 
for, says the Lord unto the male and female, I command 

12* 



274 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

you to multiply and replenish the earth. And, inasmuch 
as we have proved that the marriage ordinance was 
eternal in its nature, previous to the fall, if we are 
restored back to what was lost by the fall, we are restor- 
ed for the purpose of carrying out the commandment 
given before the fall, namely, to multiply and replenish 
the earth. Does it say, continue to multiply for a few 
years, and then the marriage contract must cease, and 
there shall be no further opportunity of carrying out 
this command, but it shall have an end ? No, there is 
nothing specified of this kind ; but the fall has brought 
in disunion through death ; it is not a part of the original 
plan ; consequently, when male and female are restored 
from the fall, by virtue of the everlasting and eternal 
covenant of marriage, they will continue to increase and 
multiply to all ages of eternity, to raise up beings after 
their own order, and in their own likeness and image, 
germs of intelligence, that are destined, in their times 
and seasons, to become not only sons of God, but gods 
themselves. 

This accounts for the many worlds we heard Elder Grant 
speaking about yesterday afternoon. The peopling 
of worlds, or an endless increase, even of one family, 
would require an endless increase of worlds ; and if one 
family were to be united in the eternal covenant of 
marriage, to fulfill that great commandment, to multiply 
his species, and propagate them, and if there be no end 
to the increase of his posterity, it would call for an end- 
less increase of new worlds. And if one family calls for 
this, what would innumerable millions of families call 
for? They would call for as many worlds as have 
already been discovered by the telescope ; yea, the 
number must be multiplied to infinity in order that 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. A i 5 

there may be room for the inheritance of the sons and 
daughters of the Gods. 

Do } T ou begin to understand how these worlds get 
their inhabitants? Have yon learned that the sons and 
daughters of God before me this day, are His offspring 
■ — made after His own image ; that they are to multiply 
their species until they become innumerable. 

Let us say a few words, before we leave this part of 
the subject, on the promises made to Abraham, Isaac, 
and Jacob. The promises were, Lift up your eyes, and 
behold the stars ; so thy seed shall be, as numberless as 
the stars. What else did He promise ? Go to the sea- 
shore, and look at the ocean of sand, and behold the 
smallness of the particles thereof, and then realize that 
your seed shall be as numberless as the sands. Now let 
us take this into consideration. How large a bulk of 
sand would it take to make as many inhabitants as there 
are now upon the earth? In about one cubic foot of 
sand, reckoning the grains of a certain size, there would 
be a thousand million particles. Now that is about the 
estimated population of our globe. If our earth were to 
continue 8,000 years, or eighty centuries, with an aver- 
age population of one thousand millions per century, 
then three cubic yards of sand would contain a greater 
number of particles than the whole population of the 
globe, from the beginning, until the measure of the 
inhabitants of this creation is complete. If men then 
cease to multiply, where is the promise made to Abra- 
ham ? Is it fulfilled? No. If that is the end of his 
increase, behold, the Lord's promise is not fulfilled. 
For the amount of sand representing his seed, might all 
be drawn in a one-horse cart ; and yet the Lord said to 
Abraham, thy seed shall be as numerous as the sand 



276 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

upon the sea-shore ; that is, to cany out the idea in full, 
it was to he endless ; and therefore, there must be an 
infinity of worlds for their residence. We cannot 
comprehend infinity. But suffice it to say, if all the 
sands on the sea-shore were numbered, says the Prophet 
Enoch, and then all the particles of the earth besides, 
and then the particles of millions of earths like this, it 
would not be a beginning to all thy creations ; and yet 
thou art there, and thy bosom is there ; and thy curtains 
are stretched out still. This gives plenty of room for 
the fulfillment of the promise made to Abraham, and 
enough to spare for the fulfillment of similar promises 
to all his seed. 

We read that those who do the works of Abraham, 
are to be blessed with the blessing of Abraham. Have 
you not, in the ordinances of this last dispensation, had 
the blessings of Abraham pronounced upon your heads? 
O yes, you say, I well recollect, since God has restored 
the everlasting Priesthood, that by a certain ordinance 
these blessings were placed upon our heads — the bless- 
ings of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Why, says one, I 
never thought of it in this light before. Why did you 
not think of it? Why not look upon Abraham's bless- 
ings as your own, for the Lord blessed him with a 
promise of seed as numerous as the sand upon the sea- 
shore ; so Avill you be blessed, or else you will not 
inherit the blessings of Abraham. 

How did Abraham manage to get a foundation laid 
for this mighty kingdom? Was he to accomplish it all 
through one wife? No. Sarah gave a certain woman 
to him whose name was Ilagar, and by her a seed was 
to be raised up unto him. Is this all ? No. We read 
of his will- Keturah, and also of a plurality of wives and 



• CELESTIAL MAEKIAGE. 277 

concubines, which he had, from whom he raised up 
many sons. Here, then, was a foundation laid for the 
fulfillment of the great and grand promise concerning 
the multiplicity of his seed. It would have been rather 
a slow process, if Abraham had been confined to one 
wife, like some of those narrow, contracted nations of 
modern Christianity. 

I think there is only about one-fifth of the population 
of the globe, that believe in the one-wife system ; the other 
four-fifths believe in the doctrine of a plurality of wives. 
They have had it handed down from time immemorial, 
and are not half so narrow and contracted in their minds 
as some of the nations of Europe and America, who 
have done away with the promises, and deprived them- 
selves of the blessings of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. 
The nations do not know anything about the blessings 
of Abraham ; and even those who have only one wife, 
cannot get rid of their covetousness, and get their little 
hearts large enough to share their property with a 
numerous family ; they are so penurious, and so narrow 
and contracted in their feelings, that they take every 
possible care not to have their families large ; they do 
not know what is in the future, nor what blessings they 
are depriving themselves of, because of the traditions of 
their fathers ; they do not know that a man's posterity, 
in the eternal worlds, are to constitute his glory, his 
kingdom, and dominion. 

Here, then, we perceive, just from this one principle, 
reasoning from the blessings of Abraham alone, the 
necessity — if we would partake of the blessings of 
Abraham, Isaac, ami Jacob — of doing their works ; and 
In- that will not do the works of Abraham, and walk in 
his footsteps, will be deprived of his blessings. 



278 TKAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Again, let us look at Sarah's peculiar position in 
regard to Abraham. She understood the whole matter ; 
she knew that, unless seed was raised up to Abraham, 
he would come short of his glory ; and she understood 
the promise of the Lord, and longed for Abraham to 
have seed. And when she saw that she was old, and 
fearing that she should not have the privilege of raising 
up seed, she gave to Abraham, Hagar. Would Gentile 
Christendom do such things now-a-days ? O no ; they 
would consider it enough to send a man to an endless 
hell of fire and brimstone. Why ? Because tradition 
has instilled this in their minds as a dreadful, awful 
thing. 

It matters not to them how corrupt they are in female 
prostitution, if they are lawfully married to only one 
wife ; but it would be considered an awful thing by 
them to raise up a posterity from more than one wife ; 
this would be wrong indeed; but to go into a brothel, 
and there debauch themselves in the lowest haunts of 
degradation all the days of their lives, they consider 
only a trifling thing ; nay, they can even license such 
institutions in Christian nations, and it all passes off 
very well. 

That is tradition ; and their posterity have been fos- 
tered and brought up in the footsteps of wickedness. 
This is death, as it stalks abroad among the great and 
popular cities of Europe and America. 

Do you find such haunts of prostitution, degradation, 
and misery here, in the cities of the mountains? No. 
Were such things in our midst, we should feel indignant 
enough to see that such persons be blotted out of the 
page of existence. These would be the feelings of this 
community. 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 279 

Look upon those who committed such iniquity in 
Israel, in ancient days ; every man and woman who 
committed adultery were put to death. I do not say 
that this people are going to do this ; but I will tell you 
what we believe — we believe it ought to be done. 

Whoredom, adultery, and fornication, have cursed 
the nations of the earth for many generations, and are 
increasing fearfully upon the community; but they must 
be entirely done away from those who call themselves 
the people of God ; if they are not, woe ! woe ! be unto 
them, also ; for " thus saith the Lord God Almighty," 
in the Book of Mormons, "Woe unto them that commit 
whoredoms, for they shall be thrust down to hell!" 
There is no getting away from it. Such things will not 
be allowed in this community ; and such characters will 
find that the time will come, that God, whose eyes are 
upon all the children of men, and who discerneth the 
things that are done in secret, will bring their acts to 
light; and they w T ill be made an example before the 
people ; and shame and infamy w T ill cleave to their pos- 
terity after them, unto the third and fourth generation 
of them that repent not. 

How is this to be prevented ? for we have got a fallen 
nature to grapple with. It is to be prevented in the 
way the Lord devised in ancient times ; that is, by 
giving to His faithful servants a plurality of wives, by 
which a numerous and faithful posterity can be raised 
up, and taught in the principles of righteousness and 
truth ; and then, after they fully understand those prin- 
ciples that were given to the ancient Patriarchs, if they 
keep not the law of God, but commit adultery, and 
transgressions of this kind, let their names be blotted 



280 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

out from under heaven, that they may have no place 
among the people of God. 

But again, there is another reason why this plurality 
should exist among the latter-day saints. I have 
already given you one reason, and that is, that you 
might inherit the blessings and promises made to Abra- 
ham, Isaac, and Jacob, and receive a continuation of 
your posterity, that they may become as numerous as 
the sand upon the sea-shore. There is another reason, 
and a good one, too. What do you suppose it is ? I 
will tell you ; and it will appear reasonable to every 
man and woman of a reflecting mind. Do we not be- 
lieve, as the Scriptures have told us, that the wicked 
nations of the earth are doomed to destruction ? Yes, 
we believe it. Do we not also believe, as the Prophets 
have foretold, concerning the last days, as well as what 
the new revelations have said upon the subject, that 
darkness prevails upon the earth, and gross darkness 
upon the minds of the people ; and not only this, but 
that all flesh has corrupted its way upon the face of the 
earth ; that is, that all nations, speaking of them as na- 
tions, have corrupted themselves before the Most High 
God, by their wickedness, whoredoms, idolatries, abomi- 
nations, adulteries, and all other kind of wickedness ? 
And we furthermore believe, that according to the Jewish 
prophets, as well as the book of Mormon, and modern 
revelations given in the book of doctrine and cove- 
nants, that the sword of the vengeance of the Almighty 
is already unsheathed, and stretched out, and will no 
more be put back into the scabbard until it falls upon 
the head of the nations until they are destroyed, except 
they repent. "What else do we believe ? We believe 
that God is gathering out from among these nations 



CELESTIAL MAKKIAGE. 281 

those who "will hearken to his voice, and receive the 
proclamation of the Gospel, to establish them as a peo- 
ple alone by themselves, where they can be instructed 
in the right way, and brought to a knowledge of the 
truth. Very well : if this be the case, that the right- 
eous are gathering out, and are still being gathered from 
among the nations, and being planted by themselves, 
one thing is certain — that that people are better calcu- 
lated to bring up their children in the right way, than 
any other under the whole heavens. Oh yes, says one, 
if that is the case — if you are the people the ancient 
Prophets have spoken of, if you are the people that are 
guided by the Lord, if you are under the influence, 
power, and guidance of the Almighty, you must be the 
best people under heaven, to dictate the young mind : 
but what has that to do with the plurality of wives ? I 
will tell you. I have already told you that the spirits 
of men and women, all had a previous existence, thou- 
sands of years ago, in the heavens, in the presence of 
God ; and I have akeady told you that among them are 
many spirits that are more noble, more intelligent than 
others, that were called the great and mighty ones, re- 
served until the dispensation of the fullness of times, to 
come forth upon the face of the earth, through a noble 
parentage that shall train their young and tender minds 
in the truths of eternity, that they may grow up in the 
Lord, and be strong in the power of His might, be 
clothed upon with His glory, be filled with exceeding 
great faith ; that the visions of eternity may be opened 
to their minds ; that they may be prophets, priests, and 
kings to the Most High God. Do you believe, says 
one, that they are reserved until the last dispensation, 
for such a noble purpose? Yes; and among the Saints 



282 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

is the most likely place for these spirits to take their 
tabernacles, through a just and righteous parentage. 
They are to be sent to that people that are the most 
righteous of any other people upon the earth ; there to 
be trained up properly, according to their nobility and 
intelligence, and according to the laws which the Lord 
ordained before they were born. This is the reason why 
the Lord is sending them here, brethren and sisters ; 
they are appointed to come and take their bodies here, 
that in their generations they may be raised up among 
the righteous. The Lord has not kept them in store for 
five or six thousand years past, and kept them waiting 
for their bodies all this time, to send them among the 
Hottentots, the African negroes, the idolatrous Hindoos, 
or any other of the fallen nations that dwell upon the 
face of this earth. They are not kept in reserve in 
order to come forth to receive such a degraded parent- 
age upon the earth; no, the Lord is not such a being; 
His justice, goodness, and mercy will be magnified 
towards those who were chosen before they were born ; 
and they long to come, and they will come, among the 
Saints of the living God ; this would be their highest 
pleasure and joy, to know that they could have the 
privilege of being born of such noble parentage. 

Then is it not reasonable, and consistent that the 
Lord should say unto Llis faithful and chosen servants, 
that had proved themselves before Him all the day 
long, that had been ready and willing to do whatso- 
ever His will required them to perform ; — take unto 
yourselves more wives, like unto the patriarchs, Abra- 
ham, Isaac, and Jacob, of old — like those who lived in 
ancient times, who walked in my footsteps, and kept 
my commands? Why should they not do this? Sup- 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 283 

pose the Lord should answer this question, would He 
not say, I have here in reserve, noble spirits, that have 
been waiting for thousands of years, to come forth in 
the fullness of times, and which I designed should come 
forth through these my faithful and chosen servants, for 
I know they will do my will, and they will teach their 
children after them to do it? Would not this be the 
substance of the language, if the Lord should give us an 
answer upon this subject? 

But then another question will arise; how are these 
things to be conducted? Are they to be left at ran- 
dom? Is every servant of God at liberty to run here 
and there, seeking out the daughters of men as wives 
unto themselves without any restriction, law, or condi- 
tion? No. We find these things were restricted in 
ancient times. Do you not recollect the circumstance 
of the Prophet Nathan's coming to David? He came 
to reprove him for certain disobedience, and told him 
about the wives he had lost through it; that the Lord 
would give them to another; and he told him, if he had 
been faithful, that the Lord would have given him still 
more, if he had only asked for them. Nathan the 
Prophet, in relation to David, was the man that held 
the keys concerning this matter in ancient days; and it 
was governed by the strictest laws. 

So in these days; let me announce to this congrega- 
tion, that there is but one man in all the world, at the 
same time, who can hold the keys of this matter; but 
one man has power to turn the key to inquire of the 
Lord, and to say whether I, or these my brethren, or 
any of the rest of this congregation, or the Saints upon 
the face of the whole earth, may have this blessing of 



284 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Abraham conferred upon tliem; lie holds the keys of 
these matters now, the same as Nathan, in his day. 

But, says one, how have you obtained this informa- 
tion? By new revelation. "When was it given, and to 
whom? It was given to our Prophet, Seer, and Reve- 
lator, Joseph Smith, on the 12th day of July, 1843; 
only about eleven months before he was martyred for 
the testimony of Jesus. 

He held the keys of these matters; he had the right 
to inquire of the Lord; and the Lord has set bounds 
and restrictions to these things; He has told us in that 
revelation, that only one man can hold these keys upon 
the earth at the same time; and they belong to that 
man who stands at the head to preside over all the 
affairs of the church and kingdom of God in the last 
days. They are the sealing keys of power, or in other 
words, of Elijah, having been committed and restored 
to the earth by Elijah, the prophet, who held many 
keys, among which were the keys of sealing, to bind 
the hearts of the fathers to the children, and the chil- 
dren to the fathers ; together with all the other sealing 
keys and powers, pertaining to the last dispensation. 
They were committed by that angel who administered 
in the Kirtland Temple, and spoke unto Joseph the 
prophet, at the time of the endowments in that house. 

Now, let us enquire, what will become of those indi- 
viduals who have this law taught unto them in plainness, 
if they reject it? [A voice in the stand, "they will be 
damned."] I will tell you: they will be damned, saith 
the Lord God Almighty, in the revelation he has given. 
Why ? Because where much is given, much is required ; 
where there is great knowledge unfolded for the exalta- 



CELESTIAL MAERIAGE. 285 

tion, glory, and happiness of the sons and daughters of 
God, if they close up their hearts, if they reject the 
testimony of His word, and will not give heed to the 
principles he has ordained for their good, they are 
worthy of damnation, aud the Lord has said they shall 
be damned. This was the word of the Lord to His 
servant Joseph the prophet himself. With all the 
knowledge and light he had, he must comply with it, 
or, says the Lord unto him, you shall he damned; and 
the same is true in regard to all those who reject these 
things. 

"What else have we heard from our President? He 
has related to us that there are some damnations that 
are eternal in their nature ; while others are but for a 
certain period, they will have an end, they will not 
receive a restoration to their former privileges, but a 
deliverance from certain punishments: and instead of 
being restored to all the privileges pertaining to man 
previous to the fall, they will only be permitted to 
enjoy a certain grade of happiness, not a full restora- 
tion. Let us inquire after those who are to be damned, 
admitting they will be redeemed, which they will be, 
unless they have sinned against the Holy Ghost. They 
will be redeemed, but what will it be to? Will it be to 
exaltation, and to a fullness of glory? Will it be to 
become sons of God, or Gods to reign upon thrones, and 
multiply their posterity, and reign over them as kings? 
No, it will not. They have lost that exalted privilege 
for ever; though they may, after having been punished 
for long periods, escape by the skin of their teeth; but 
no kingdom will be conferred upon them? What will 
be their condition? I will tell you what revelation 
says, not only concerning them that reject these things, 



286 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

but concerning those that through their carelessness, or 
want of faith, or something else, have failed to have their 
marriages sealed for time and for all eternity; those that 
do not do these things, so as to have the same ordinances 
sealed upon their heads by divine authority, as was 
upon the head of old Father Adam — if they fail to do it 
through wickedness, through their ungodliness, they 
also will never have the privilege of possessing that 
which is possessed by the Gods that hold the keys 
of power, of coming up to the thrones of their exalta- 
tion, and receiving their kingdoms. Why? Because, 
saith the Lord, all oaths, all covenants, and all agree- 
ments, etc., that have been made by man, and not by 
me, and by the authority I have established, shall cease 
when death shall separate the parties; that is the end; 
that is the cessation; they go no further; and such a 
person cannot come up in the morning of the resurrec- 
tion, and say, Behold, I claim you as my wife; you are 
mine; I married you in the other world before death; 
therefore you are mine: he cannot say this. Why? 
Because he never married that person for eternity. 

Suppose they should enter into covenant and agree- 
ment, and conclude between themselves to live together 
to all eternity, and never have it sealed by the Lord's 
sealing power, by the holy priesthood, would they have 
any claim on each other in the morning of the resurrec- 
tion ? No ; it would not be valid nor legal, and the 
Lord would say, It was not by me ; your covenants 
were not sealed on the earth, and therefore they are not 
sealed in the heavens ; they are not recorded on my 
book ; they are not to be found in the records that are 
in the archives of eternity ; therefore, the blessings you 
might have had, are not for you to enjoy. What will 



CELESTIAL MARRIAGE. 2S7 

be their condition? The Lord has told us. He says 
these are angels ; because the}^ keep not this law, they 
shall be ministering servants unto those who are worthy 
of obtaining a more exceeding and eternal weight of 
glory ; wherefore, saith the Lord, they shall remain 
singly and separately in their saved condition, and shall 
not have power to enlarge themselves, and thus shall 
they remain forever and ever. 

Here, then, you can read their history ; they are not 
Gods, but they are angels or servants to the Gods. There 
is a difference between the two classes ; the Gods are 
exalted ; they hold keys of power ; are made kings and 
priests ; and this power is conferred upon them in time, 
by the everlasting priesthood, to hold a kingdom in 
eternity that shall never be taken from them worlds 
without end ; and they will propagate their species. 
They are not servants ; for one God is not to be a ser- 
vant to another God ; they are not angels ; and this is 
the reason why Paul said, know ye not, brethren, that 
we shall judge angels? Angels are inferior to the saints 
who are exalted as kings. These angels who are to be 
judged, and to become servants to the Gods, did not 
keep the law, therefore, though they are saved, they are 
to be servants to those who are in a higher condition. 

What does the Lord intend to do with this people ? 
He intends to make them a kingdom of kings and 
priests, a kingdom unto Himself, or in other words, a 
kingdom of Gods, if they will hearken to His law. 
There will be many who will not hearken ; there will be 
the foolish among the wise, who will not receive the new 
and everlasting covenant in its fullness ; and they never 
will attain to their exaltation ; they never will be 
counted worthy to hold the sceptre of power over a 



288 TEAVELS AND ADVENTUKES IN THE FAR WEST. 

numerous progeny, that shall multiply themselves with- 
out end, like the sand upon the sea shore. 

We can only touch here and there upon this great 
subject, we can only offer a few words with regard to 
this great, sublime, beautiful and glorious doctrine, 
which has been revealed by the Prophet, Seer, and 
Revelator, Joseph Smith, who sealed his testimony with 
his blood, and thus revealed to the nations, things 
that were in ancient times, as well as things that are tc 
come. 

But while I talk, the vision of my mind is opened ; 
the subject spreads forth and branches out like the 
branches of a thrifty tree ; and as for the glory of God, 
how great it is! I feel to say, Hallelujah to his great 
and holy name ; for He reigns in the heavens, and He 
will exalt His people to sit with Him upon thrones of 
power, to reign forever and ever. 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 289 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY— MOR- 
MON POLICY TOWARDS THEM. 

AN ADDRESS DELIVERED BY PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG, IN 
THE TABERNACLE, GREAT SALT LA!KE CITY. 

I wish to say a few words to the latter-day saints this 
morning, as there seems to be considerable excitement 
in the feelings of the people, and many inquiring what 
will be the result of the present Indian difficulties. 

I will give you my testimony, as far as I have one on 
the subject, concerning these difficulties in this territory, 
north and south, pertaining to our brethren, theLaman- 
ites. My testimony to all is — it is right, and perfectly 
calculated, like all other providences of the Lord, of the 
like nature, to chasten this people until they are willing 
to take counsel. They will purify and sanctify the 
Saints, and prepare the wicked for their doom. 

There has nothing strange and uncommon to man, yet 
occurred ; nothing has yet happened out of the ordinary 
providences of the Lord. These common dealings of our 
great Head with His people have been manifested from 
days of old, in blessings and chastisements "Wars, com- 
motions, tumults, strife, nation contending against na- 
tion, and people against people, have all been governed 
and controlled by Him whose right it is to control such 
matters. 

13 



290 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Among wicked nations, or among Saints, among the 
ancient Israelites, Philistines and Romans, the hand of 
the Lord was felt ; in short, all the powers that have heen 
upon the earth, have been dictated, governed, controlled, 
and the final issue of their existence has been brought to 
pass, according to the wisdom of the Almighty. Then 
my testimony is, it is all right. 

There seems to be some excitement among the people, 
and fears are arising in the breasts of many, as to the 
general safety. Some person has been shot at by the In- 
dians, or some Indians were seen in a hostile condition. 
And away go messengers to report to head quarters, 
saying, " What shall we do ? for we cannot tell, but we 
shall all be killed by them ; they have stolen our horses 
and driven off some cattle, which has created a great ex- 
citement in our settlement," etc ; when, perhaps to-mor- 
row, the very Indians who have committed these depre- 
dations will come and say, Hoio do you do? We are 
friendly, cannot you give us some " Chitcup f " * They 
will shake hands, and appear as though it were impos- 
sible for them to be guilty of another hostility. And 
what is the next move? Why, our wise men, the elders 
of Israel, are either so fluctuating in their feelings, so 
unstable in their ways, or so ignorant of the Indian 
character, that the least mark of friendship manifested 
by these treacherous red men, will lull all their fears, 
throw them entirely off their guard, saying, "It is all 
right ; wife, take care of the stock, for I am going to 
the canon for a load of wood." 

Away he goes, without a gun or a pistol to defend 
himself in case of an attack from some Indian ov In- 

* Indian language for something to eat. 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 201 

dians, to rob him of his cattle and perhaps his life. 
Herds of cattle are driven upon the range, the feelings 
of the people are divested of all fear by this little show 
of Indian friendship, and their hearts are at peace with 
all mankind. The} 7 lie down to sleep at night with the 
doors of their houses open, and in many instances 
with no way to close them if they were willing, only by 
means of hanging up a blanket. Thus they go to sleep 
with their guns unloaded, and entirely without any 
means of defence, in case they should be attacked in the 
night. On the other hand, they no sooner discover an 
Indian in an hostile attitude, than the hue and cry is 
" We shall all he murdered immediately" That is the 
kind of stability, the kind of unshaken self-command, 
the style of generalship and wisdom manifested by el- 
ders in Israel. To-day all are in arms, war is on hand ; 
" we are going to be destroyed, or to fight our way 
through," is in every mouth. To-morrow all is peace, 
and every man turns to his own way, wherever the com- 
mon avocations of life call him. No concern is felt as 
to protection in the future, but " all is right, all is safety, 
there is no fear of any further trouble," is the language 
of people's thoughts, and they lie down to sleep in a 
false security, to be murdered in the night by their ene- 
mies, if they are disposed to murder them. 

I can tell you one thing with regard to excitement and 
war. You may take Israel here, as a community, witli 
all their experience, and with all they have passed 
through in the shape of war, and difficulties of various 
kinds, and these wild Indians arc actually wiser in their 
generation in the art of war than this people are. They 
lay better plans, display greater skill, and are steadier 
in their feelings. They are not so easily excited, and 



292 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

when excited, are not so easily allayed, as the men who 
have come, to inhabit these mountains, from where they 
have been trained and educated in the civilization of 
modern nations. You may not believe this assertion ; if. 
is, however, no matter whether you do or do not, the 
fact remains unaltered, as well as the conviction of my 
own mind regarding it. 

I have been frequently asked, what is going to be the 
result of these troubles? I answer — the result will be 
good. What did you hear, you who have come to these 
valleys within the last few years, 'previous to your leav- 
ing your native country? You heard that all was 
peace and safety among the Saints in these regions ; that 
the earth yielded in her strength, giving an abundance 
of food ; and that this was a splendid country to raise 
stock. Your determination was then formed to go up 
to the valleys of the mountains, where you could enjoy 
peace and quiet, and follow the avocations of life undis- 
turbed. When the people arrive here, many of them 
come to me and say, " Brother Brigham, can we go 
here or there to get us farms ? Shall we enter into this 
or that speculation ? We have been very poor, and we 
want to make some money, or we want the privilege of 
taking with us a few families to make a settlement in 
this or that distant valley." If I inquire why they can- 
not stay here, their answer is, " because there is no 
room, the land is chiefly taken up, and we have a considera- 
ble stock of cattle, we want to go where we can have 
plenty of range for our stock, where we can mount our 
horses, and ride over the prairies, and say, I am lord of 
all I survey. We do not wish to be disturbed, in any 
way, nor to be asked to pay tithing, to work upon the 
roads, nor pay territorial tax, but we wish all the time to 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 203 

ourselves, to appropriate to our own use. I want you, 
brother Brigliam, to give us counsel that we can get the 
whole world in a string after us, and have it all in our 
own possession by and by." If there is light enough 
in Israel, let it shine in your consciences, and illuminate 
your understandings, and give you to know that I tell you 
the truth. This is the object many have, in wishing to 
settle and take in land that is far distant from the main 
body of the people. I have not given you the language 
of their lips tome, but the language of their hearts. 

Elders of Israel are greedy after the things of this 
world. If you ask them if they are ready to build up 
the kingdom of God, their answer is prompt — " Why', to 
be sure we are, with our whole souls; but we want first 
to get so much gold, speculate and get rich, and then we 
can help the Church considerably. We will go to Cali- 
fornia and get gold, go and buy goods and get rich, trade 
with the emigrants, build a mill, make a farm, get a 
large herd of cattle, and then we can do a great deal for 
Israel." When will you be ready to do it? "In a few 
years, brother Brigham, if you do not disturb us. We 
do not believe in the necessity of doing military duty, in 
giving over our surplus property for tithing; we never 
could see into it ; but we want to go and get rich, to ac- 
cumulate and amass wealth, by securing all the land ad- 
joining us, and all we have knowledge of." If that is 
not the spirit of this people, then I do not know what 
the truth is concerning the matter. 

Now I wish to say to you who are fearing and trem- 
ling, do not be afraid at all, for it is certain if we should 
be killed off by the Indians, we could not die any 
younger ; this is, about as good a time as can be for us 
to die, and if we all go together, why, you know, we 



291 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

shall have a good company along with us ; it will not be 
lonesome passing through the valley, which is said to 
have a vail drawn over it. If we all go together, the 
dark valley of the shadow of death will be lighted up 
by us, so do not be scared. But there will not be enough 
slain by the Indians at this time to make the company 
very conspicuous in that dark valley. Do you begin to 
secretly wish you had stayed in the States or in England 
a little longer, until this Indian war had come to an end ? 
There is a mighty fearing and trembling in the hearts of 
many. I know what men have done heretofore ; when 
they have seen the enemy advancing, they have skulked, 
they were sure to be somewhere else than on hand when 
there was fighting to do, although, upon the whole, I 
have no fault to find with the latter-day saints, or with 
the Elders of Israel upon that subject, for they love to 
fight a little too well. If I were to have fears concern- 
ing them, it w T ould not be that they w T ould make war, 
but in the case of war being made on them, I should 
have more fear in consequence of the ignorant and fool- 
ish audacity of the elders, than of their being afraid. 
I should fear they would rush into danger like an un- 
thinking horse into battle. So I will not find fault with 
regard to their courage. On that point I am a coward 
myself, and if people would do as I tell them, I would 
not only save my own life, but theirs likewise. 

Suppose, now, that we should say to this congregation, 
and to all the wards of this city, the time has come for 
us to fort lip / do you not think a great many persons 
would come immediately to me, and inquire if I did not 
think their houses quite safe enough, without being put 
to that trouble and expense ? Yes, my office would be 
crowded with such persons, wanting to know if they 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 295 

might not live where they were now living, " for," they 
would say, " we have got good houses, and well finished 
off, besides, such a course will ruin them, and our 
gardens will go to destruction ; we really cannot fort 
up. " Would there not be a great amount of hard feel- 
ings upon the subject? I think so, whether you do or 
not. I think I should want as many as a legion of 
angels to assist me to convince every family it was 
necessary, if it actually was so. 

I do not know but that the time may come, and that 
speedily, when I shall build a fort myself in this city, 
and those who are disposed can go into it with me, while 
the rest can stay out. When I see it is absolutely neces- 
sary to do this, I shall do it. If the people of Utah 
Territory would do as they were told, they would always 
be safe. If the people in San Pete county had done as 
they were told, from the beginning of that settlement, 
they would have been safe at this time, and would not 
have lost their cattle. The day before yesterday, 
Friday, July 29th, the Indians came from the mountains, 
to Father Allred's settlement, and drove off all the 
stock, amounting to two hundred head. If the people 
had done as they were told, they would not have suffered 
this severe loss, which is a just chastisement. 

I recollect when we were down at Father Allred's 
settlement last April, they had previously been to mo 
not only to know if they might settle in San Pete, but 
if they might separate widely from each other, over a 
piece of land about two miles square, each having a live 
acre lot for their garden, near their farms. They were 
told to build a good subs: mtial fort, until the settlement 
became sufficiently strong, and not live so far apart, and 
expose themselves and their property to danger. Father 



%96 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR "WEST. 

Allred told me they were then so uigli together, they 
did not know how to live ! I told him they had better 
make up their minds to be baptized into the Church 
again, and get the Spirit of God, that each one might 
be able to live in peace with his neighbor in close quar- 
ters, and not think himself infringed upon. They 
wanted to know if they were to build a fort. " Why, 
yes, " I said, " build a strong fort, and a corral to put 
your cattle, that the Indians cannot get them away from 
you." "Do you think, brother Brigham, the Indians 
will trouble us here ?" they inquired. I said, " It is 
none of your business whether they will or not, but you 
will see the time that you will need such preparations."' 
But I did not think it would come so quickly. There 
will more come upon this people to destroy them than 
they at present think of, unless they are prepared to de- 
fend themselves, which I shall not take time, this morn- 
ing, to dwell upon. I said also to the brethren at Utah, 
" Do you make a fort, and let it be strong enough, that 
Indians cannot break into it." They commenced, and 
did not make even the shadow of a fort, for in some 
places there was nothing more than a line to mark where 
the approaching shadow would be. They began to set- 
tle round upon the various creeks and streamlets, and 
the part of a fort that existed was finally pulled up, and 
carried away somewhere else. I have told you, from 
the beginning, you would need forts, where to build 
them, and how strong. I told you six years ago, to 
build a fort that the Devil conld not get into, unless you 
were disposed to let him in, and that would keep out 
the Indians. Excuse me f. r saying devil ; I do not 
often use the old gentleman's name in vain, and if I do 
it, it is always in the pulpit, where I do all my swearing. 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 207 

I make this apology because it is considered a sin to say 
devil, and it grates on refined ears. 

I told the settlement in San Pete, at the first, to build 
a fort. They did not do it, but huddled together beside 
a stone quarry, without a place of common shelter where 
they could defend themselves, in case of an Indian 
difficulty. They had faith they could keep the Indians 
off. "Well, now is the time to call it into exercise. 
They did, after a while, build a temporary fort at San 
Pete, which now shields them in a time of trouble. 

When the brethren went to Salt Creek, they wanted 
to make a settlement there, and inquired of me if they 
might do so. I told them, no, unless they first built an 
efficient fort. I forbade .them taking their women and 
children there, until that preparatory work was fully 
accomplished. Has it ever been done ? No, but families 
went there and lived in wagons and brush houses, per- 
fectly exposed to be killed. If they have faith enough 
to keep the Indians off, it is all right. 

From the time these distant valleys began to be set- 
tled, until now, there has scarcely been a day but what 
I have felt twenty-five ton weight, as it were, upon me, 
in exercising faith to keep this people from destroying 
themselves ; but if any of them can exercise faith 
enough for themselves, and wish to excuse me, I will 
take my faith back. 

The word has gone out now, to the different settle- 
ments, in the time of harvest, requiring them to build 
forts. Could it not have been done last winter, better 
than now ? Yes. Do you not suppose people will now 
wish they had built forts when they were told ? If they 
do not, it proves what they have been all the time, shall 
I say fools ? If that is too harsh a term, I will say they 

13* 



298 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

heave been foolish. It is better for me to labor in build- 
ing a house or a fort, to get out fencing timber, and 
wood to consume through the winter, when I have 
nothing else to do, and not be under the necessity of 
leaving ray grain on the ground to do those things. 
Harvest is no time to build forts, neither is it the time 
to do it when we should be plowing and sowing. 

Now the harvest is upon us, I wish to say a few words 
concerning it. I desire you to tell your neighbors, and 
wish them to tell their neighbors, and thus let it go to 
the several counties around — now is the time for women 
and children to assist in the harvest fields, the same as 
they do in other countries. I never asked this of them 
before ; I do not now ask it as a general thing, but those 
employed in the expedition south, in the work of defend- 
ing their brethern from Indian depredations, who have 
heavy harvests on hand, rather than suffer the grain to 
waste, let the women get in the harvest, and put it 
where the Indians cannot steal it. And when yon go 
into the harvest field, carry a good butcher knife in your 
belt, that if an Indian should come upon you, supposing 
you to be unarmed, you would be sure to kill him. 

Tell your neighbors of this, and go to work, men, 
women, and children, and gather in your grain, and 
gather it clean, leave none to waste, and put it where 
the Inelians cannot destroy it. 

Does this language intimate anything terrific to you ? 
It need not. If you will do as you are told, you will be 
safe continually. Secure your bread stuff, your wheat, 
and your corn, when it is ripe, and let every particle of 
graiu raised in these valleys be put where it w T ill be 
safe, anel as much as possible from vermin, and espe- 
cially from the Indians, and then builel forts. 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 29D 

Let every man and woman who lias a house make 
that house a fort, from which you can kill ten where 
j6u now only kill one, if the Indians come upon yon. 
" Brother Brigham, do you really expect Indians to 
come upon us in this city?" This inquiry, I have no 
doubt, is at this moment in the hearts of a few, almost 
breathless with fear. Were I to answer such inquirers 
as I feel, I should say, it is none of your business ; but 
I will say, you are so instructed, to see if you will do 
as you are told. Let your dwelling house be a perfect 
fort. From the day I lived where brother Joseph 
Smith lived, I have been fortified all the time so as to 
resist twenty men, if they should come to my house in 
the night, with an intent to molest my family, assault 
my person, or destroy my property; and I have always 
been in the habit of sleeping with one eye open, and if 
I cannot then sufficiently watch, I will get my wife to 
help me. Let an hostile band of Indians come round 
my house, and I am good for quite a number of them. 
If one hundred should come, I calculate that only fifty 
would be able to go to the next house, and if the Saints 
there used up the other fifty, the third house would be 
safe. 

But instead of the people taking this course, almost 
every good rifle in the Territory has been traded away 
to the Indians, with quantities of powder and lead, 
though they waste it in various ways when they have 
got it. The whites would sell the title to their lives, for 
the sake of trading with the Indians. 

They will learn better, I expect, by and by, for the 
people have never received such strict orders as they 
have got now. I will give you the pith of the last 
orders issued — " That man or family who will not do aa 



300 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

they are told in the orders, are to be treated as stran- 
gers, yea, even as enemies, and not as friends." And 
if there should be such a contest, if we should be called 
upon to defend our lives, our liberty, and our posses- 
sions, we would cut such off the first, and walk over 
their dead bodies to conquer the foe outside. 

Martial law is not enforced yet, although the whole 
Territory is in a state of war, apparently, but it is only 
the Utah [Indians] who have declared war on Utah 
[Territory]. Deseret has not yet declared war ; how 
soon it will be declared is not for me to say ; but we 
have a right, and it is our duty, to put ourselves in a 
state of self-defence. 

The few families that settled in Cedar Valley, at the 
point of the mountains, were instructed to leave there, 
last spring. They have gone back again, upon their 
own responsibility, and now want to know what they 
must do. They have been told to do just as they have 
a mind to. 

Those who have taken their wives and children in 
the canons to live, have been told to remove them into 
the city ; and if you want to make shingles, or do any 
other work that requires you to remain there, have your 
gun in a situation that an Indian cannot creep up and 
steal it from you before you are aware, that you can be 
good for a few Indians if they should chance to come 
upon you. 

If I wished to live away from the body of the people, 
my first effort should be directed towards building a 
good and efficient fort. When new settlements were 
made in the eastern countries, they built them of tim- 
ber, and they were called " block-houses." I would 
advise that every house in a new settlement should be 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TKEACHERY. f3<<l 

made good for all the Indians that could approach it, 
with an intention to tear it down. If I did not do that, 
I would go to where I could be safe, I would take up my 
abode with the body of the people. I would take my 
family there at least. By taking this course, every per- 
son will be safe from the depreciations of the Indians, 
which are generally committed upon the defenceless 
and unprotected portions of the community. 

I know what the feelings of the generality of the 
people are, at this time — they think all the Indians in 
the mountains are coming to kill off the latter-day 
saints. I have no more fear of that, than I have of the 
sun ceasing to give light upon the earth. I have studied 
the Indian character sufficiently to know what the 
Indians are in war, I have been with them more or less 
from my youth upward, where they have often had wars 
among themselves. Let every man, woman, and child, 
that can handle a butcher knife, be good for one Indian, 
and you are safe. 

I am aware that the people want to ask me a thous- 
and and one questions, whether they have done it or 
not, touching the present Indian difficulties. I have 
tried to answer them all, in my own mind, by saying, it 
will be just as the Lord will. 

How many times have I been asked in the past week, 
what I intend to do with Walker. I say, let him alone, 
severely. I have not made war on the Indians, nor 
am I calculating to do it. My policy is to give them 
presents, and be kind to them. Instead of being 
AValker's enemy, I have sent him a great pile of tobacco 
to smoke when he is lonely in the mountains. lie is 
now at war with the only friends he has upon this earth, 
and I want him to have some tobacco to smoke. 



302 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES LN THE FAR WEST. 

I calculate to pursue just such a course with the 
Indians, and when I am dictated to by existing circum- 
stances, and the Spirit of the Lord, to change my course, 
I will do it, and not until then. 

If you were to see Walker, do yon think you would 
kill him ? You that want to kill him, I will give you a 
mission to that effect. A great many appear very hold, 
and desire to go and bring me Walker's head, but they 
want all the people in Utah to go with them. I could 
point out thousands in this Territory who would follow 
these Indians, and continue to follow them, and leave 
the cattle to be driven off by the emigrants, and the 
grain to perish, and thus subject the whole community 
to the ravages of famine, and its consequent evils. I 
have been teased and teased by men who will come to 
me and say, " Just give me twenty-five, fifty, or a hun- 
dred men, and I will go and fetch you Walker's head.'" 
I do not want his head, but I wish him to do all the 
devil wants him to do, so far as the Lord will suffer 
him, and the devil to chastise this people for their good. 

I say to the Indians, as I have often said to the mob, 
go your length. You say you are going to kill us all 
off, you say you are going to obliterate the latter-day 
saints, and wipe them from the earth , why don't you 
do it, you poor miserable curses ? The mob only had 
power to drive the Saints to their duty, and to remember 
the Lord their God, and that is all the Lidians can do. 
This people are worldly-minded, they want to get rich 
in earthly substance, and are apt to forget their God, the 
pit from which they were dug, and the rock from which 
they were hewn, every man turning to his own way. 
Seemingly the Lord is chastening us until we turn and do 
His will. What are you willing to do ? Would you be 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TEEACHEEY. 803 

willing to build a fort, and all go in there to live? I 
tell ymi, you would have a hell of jour own, and devils 
enough to carry it on. Do you suppose you will ever 
see the time you would do that, and live at peace with 
each other, and have the spirit of the Lord enough to 
look each other in the face, and say, with a heart full of 
kindness, " Good morning, Mary," or "How do you do, 
Maria ?" You will be whipped until you have the Spirit 
of the Lord Jesus Christ sufficiently to love your breth- 
ren and sisters freely, men, women, and children ; until 
you can live at peace with yourselves, and with every 
family around you ; until you can treat every child as 
though it were the tender offspring of your own body, 
every man as your brother, and every woman as your 
sister ; and until the young persons treat the old with 
that respect due to parents, and all learn to shake hands, 
with a warm heart, and a friendly grip, and say, "God 
bless you !" from morning until evening; until each per- 
son can ^ty, " I love you all, I have no evil in my heart 
to any individual, I can send my children to school with 
yours, and can correct your children when they do 
wrong, as though they were my own, and I am willing 
you should correct mine, and let us live together until 
we are a holy and sanctified society." There will always 
be Indians or somebody else to chastise you, until you 
come to that spot ; so amen to the present Indian trouble, 
for it is all right. I am just as willing the rebellious of 
this people should be kicked, and cuffed, and mobbed, 
and hunted by the Indians, as not, for I have preached 
to them until I am tired. I will give no more counsel 
to any person upon the duties of self-preservation ; you 
can do as you please ; if you will not preserve yourselves, 
I may reason with you until my tongue cleaves to the 



30Jr TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

roof of rny mouth, to no avail. Let the Lord extend 
the hand of benevolence to brother "Walker, and he will 
make you do it by other means than exhortations given 
in mildness. 

This very same Indian Walker has a mission upon 
him, and I do not blame him for what he is now doing ; 
he is helping me do the will of the Lord to this people, 
he is doing with a chastening rod what I have failed to 
accomplish with soft words, while I have been handing 
out my substance, feeding the hungry, comforting the 
sick. But this has no effect upon this people, at all, my 
counsel has not been heeded, so the Lord is making 
brother Walker an instrument to help me, and perhaps 
the means that he will use will have their due effect. 

Do you suppose I want to kill him ? No. I should 
be killing the very means that will make this people do 
what we wanted them to do years ago. 

There are hundreds of witnesses to bear testimony 
that I have counselled this people, from the beginning, 
what to do to save themselves, both temporally and 
spiritually. 

In one of our orders issued lately, the southern settle- 
ments were advised to send their surplus cattle to this 
valley. No quicker had the news reached them, than 
our ears were greeted with one continued whine, which 
meant, " We are afraid you want them." So we did, to 
take care of them for you. 

When Father Allred was advised to adopt measures 
to secure themselves and their property, he replied, " Oh, 
I do not think there is the least danger in the world ; 
we are perfectly able to take care of our stock, and pro- 
tect ourselves against the Indians." All right, I thought, 
let circumstances prove that. 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 305 

Now, as difficulties surround tliem, they say to me, 
" Why, brother Brigham, if you had only told us what 
to do, we would have done it. "Were we not always 
willing to take your counsel ?" Yes, you are a great 
deal more willing to take it, than to obey it. If people 
are willing to carry out good counsel, they will secure 
themselves accordingly. 

I have thought of setting a pattern, by securing my- 
self; but were I to build a fort for myself and family, I 
should want about a legion of angels from the throne of 
God, to stay nine months with me, to get my folks wil- 
ling to go into it. But I am so independent about it, I 
care not the snap of my finger for one of them. If my 
wives will not go into a place of security with me, it is 
all right, they can stay out, and I will go in and take 
my children with me. I say, I do not know but I may 
take a notion to set a pattern by building a fort ; if I do, 
some one in in this city may follow my example, and 
then somebody else, etc., until we have a perfect city of 
forts. 

" Brother Brigham, do you really think we shall ever 
need them ?" Yes, I do. All the difficulties there is in 
the community this year, is not a drop in comparison to 
the heavy shower that will come. " Well, and where is 
it coming from ?" From hell, where every other trouble 
comes from. " And who do you think will be the 
actors V Why, the Devil and his imps. [W. W. Phelps 
in the stand. We could not do very well without a 
Devil.] No, sir, you are quite aware of that ; y<>n know 
we could not do without him. If there had been no 
devil to tempt Eve, she never would have got her eyes 
opened. We need a devil to stir up the wicked on the 



306 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE EAR WEST. 

earth to purify the saints. Therefore, let the devils 
howl, let them rage, and thus exhibit themselves in the 
form of those poor, foolish Lamanites. Let them go on 
in their work, and do you not desire to kill them, until 
they ought to be killed, and then we will extinguish the 
Indian title, if it is required. 

Did you never feel to pity them, on viewing their 
wretched condition? Walker, with a small band, has 
succeeded in making all the Indian bands in these moun- 
tains fear him. He has been in the habit of stealing 
from the Californians, and of making every train of emi- 
grants that passed along the Spanish trail to California 
pay tithing to him. He finally began to steal children 
form those bands to sell to the Spaniards ; and through 
fear of him, he has managed to bring in subjection 
almost all the Utah tribes. 

I will relate one action of Walker's life, which will 
serve to illustrate his character. He, with his band, 
about last February, fell in with a small band of Payedes, 
and killed off the whole of the men, took the squaws pris- 
oners, and sold the children to the Mexicans, and some 
few were disposed of in this Territory. This transaction 
was told by Arapeen, Walker's brother, though he was 
not at the affray himself. 

The Indians in these mountains are continually on 
the decrease ; bands that numbered 150 warriors when 
we first came here, number not more than 35 now ; and 
some of the little tribes in the southern parts of this 
Territory, towards New Mexico, have not a single squaw 
amongst them, for they have traded them off for horses, 
etc. This practice will soon make the race extinct. 
Besides, Walker is continually, whenever an opportu- 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 307 

nity presents itself, killing and stealing children from 
the wandering bands that he has any power over, which 
also has its tendency to extinguish the race. 

Walker is hemmed in, he dare not go into California 
again. Dare he go east to the Snakes % ISTo. Dare he 
go north? No, for they would rejoice to kill him. Here 
he is, penned up in a small compass, surrounded "by his 
enemies ; and now the elders of Israel long to eat up, 
as it were, him and his little band. What are they ? 
They are a set of cursed fools. Do you not rather pity 
them ? They dare not move over a certain boundary, 
on any of the four points of the compass, for fear of 
being killed ; then they are killing one another, and 
making war upon this people that could use them up, 
and they not be a breakfast spell for them if they felt 
so disposed. See their condition, and I ask you, do you 
in it pity them ? From all appearance, there will not be 
an Indian left, in a short time, to steal a horse. Are 
they not fools, under these circumstances, to make war 
with their best friends ? 

Do you want to run after them to kill them ? I say, 
let them alone, for peradventure God may pour out His 
Spirit upon them, and show them the error of their ways. 
We may yet have to fight them, though they are of the 
house of Israel to whom the message of salvation is 
sent ; for their wickedness is so great, that the Lord Al- 
mighty cannot get at the hearts of the older ones to 
teach them saving principles. Joseph Smith said we 
should have to fight them. He said, " When this pe< >ple 
mingle among the Lamanites, if they do not bow down 
in obedience to the Gospel, they will hunt them until 
there is but a small remnant of them left upon this con- 
tinent." They have either got to bow down to the Gos- 



308 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

pel or be slain. Shall we slay them simply because 
they will not obey the Gospel ? No. But they will 
come to ns and try to kill ns, and we shall be under the 
necessity of killing them to save our own lives. 

I wished to lay these things before the people this 
morning, to answer a great many questions, and allay 
their fears. Yesterday, brother Kimball heard at his 
mill, ten miles north, that I had sent word to him, that 
the mountains were full of Indians, and he and the 
families with him were to move into the city ; so they 
immediately obeyed this report. Brother Kimball came 
to me and inquired if I had sent such orders. I said, 
no. But it is all right, for I wanted the women and 
children from there. This shows the excited state of 
the people. 

One thing more. I ask you men who have been 
with Joseph in the wars he passed through, and who 
were with him at the time of his death, what was'it that 
preserved us, to all outward appearances ? It is true, 
in reality, God did it. But by what means did He keep 
the mob from destroying us ? It was by means of being 
well armed with the weapons of death to send them to 
hell cross lots. Just so you have got to do. 

And for this people fostering to themselves that the 
day has come for them to sell their guns and ammuni- 
tion to their enemies, and sit down to sleep in peace, 
they will find themselves deceived, and before they 
know, they will sleep until they are slain. They have 
g< >t to carry weapons with them, to be ready to send their 
enemies to hell cross lots, whether they be Lamanites, 
or mobs who may come to take their lives, or destroy 
their property. We must be so prepared that they dare 
not come to us in a hostile manner without being assured 



INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY. 309 

they will meet a vigorous resistance, and ten to one they 
will meet their grave. 

The Lord will suffer no more trouble to come upon us 
than is necessary to bring this people to their senses. 
You need not go to sleep under the impression that it is 
the north and south only that is in danger, and we are 
all safe here. Now mind, let this people here lie down 
to sleep, and be entirely off their watch, and the first 
thing they know, they are in the greatest danger. You 
must not desert the watch tower, but do as I do — keep 
some person awake in your house all night long, and be 
ready, at the least tap of the foot, to offer a stout resis- 
tance, if it is required. Be ready at any moment to kill 
twenty of your enemies at least. Let every house be 
a fort. 

After the cattle were stolen at San Pete, a messenger 
arrived here in about thirty hours to report the affair, 
and obtain advice. I told brother Wells, "you can 
write to them, and say, 'Inasmuch as you have no cows 
and oxen to trouble you, you can go to harvesting, and 
take care of yourselves. ' : If you do not take care of 
yourselves, brethren, you will not be taken care of. I 
take care of them that help themselves. I will help 
you that try to help yourselves, and carry out the maxim 
of Doctor Dick — " God helps them that help them- 
selves. " 

I am my own policeman, and have slept, scores of 
uights, with my gun and sword by my side, that is, if I 
slept at all. I am still a policeman. Now is the day to 
watch. It is as important for me to watch now, as well 
as pray, as it ever has been since I came into this king- 
dom. It requires watching, as well as praying men; 
take turns at it, let some watch while others pray, and 



810 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

then change round, but never let any time pass without 
a watcher, lest you be overtaken in an hour when you 
think not ; it will come as a thief in the night. Look 
out for your enemies, for we know not how they will 
come, and what enemy it will be. Take care of 
yourselves. 

Again, let me reiterate to the sisters, do not be afraid 
of going into the harvest field. If you are found there 
helping your, sons, your husbands and your brethren, to 
gather in the harvest, I say, God bless you, and I will 
also. 

Take care of your grain, and take care of yourselves, 
that no enemy come to slay you. Be always on hand 
to meet them with death, and send them to hell, if they 
come to you. May God bless you all. Amen. 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 311 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 

AN ADDRESS DELIVERED BY PRESIDENT B. YOUNG, IN THE 
TABERNACLE, GREAT SALT LAKE CITY. 

I feel disposed to say a few words on the present 
occasion. It is said, that " at the sight of the eyes the 
heart is made to rejoice." This is truly the case with 
me this afternoon, when I look upon the congregation. 
to see this spacious hall filled with the Saints of the Most 
High, for the purpose of partaking of the Sacrament of 
the Lord's Supper. It is a sight which I have not had 
the privilege of seeing before, only on Conference days. 
This morning I looked round to see how the house was 
crowded, which was packed to that extent, that scores 
could not be seated. I looked if peradventure I could 
designate any person that did not belong to the Church, 
that did not profess to be a Saint ; but I could not see 
a single person of that description, that I knew of. I 
thought, why not be as diligent to attend the afternoon 
meetings, to partake of the Sacrament of the Lord's 
Supper, as to attend the morning meetings? Hitherto 
it has not been the case, but my heart rejoices to see the 
house so well filled this afternoon. I feel in my heart 
to bless you : it is full of blessings and not cursings. It 
is something that does not occupy my feelings to curse 
any individual, but I will modify this by saying those 



t312 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES EN THE FAR WEST. 

who ought not to le cursed. Who ought to be ? Those 
who know their master's will, and do it not ; they are 
worthy of many stripes ; it is not those who do not know, 
and do not do, but those who know it, and do not do it — 
they are the ones to be chastised. 

While the brethren have been speaking upon the 
blessings the Lord bestows upon this people, my mind 
has reflected upon many of the circumstances of life, and 
upon certain principles. I will ask you a question — 
Do you think persons can he blessed too much f I will 
answer it myself. Yes, they can, they can be blessed to 
their injury. For instance, suppose a person should be 
blessed with the knowledge of the holy Gospel, whose 
heart is set in him to do evil. We esteem this as a 
blessing, and would not the Lord consider it a blessing 
to bestow His favors and mercies upon any individual, 
by giving him a knowledge of life and salvation ? But 
suppose He bestowed it upon persons whose hearts were 
set in them to do evil, who would by their wickedness 
turn these blessings into curses, they would be blessed 
too much. It is possible to bless people to death, you 
can bless them to everlasting misery by heaping too 
many blessings upon them. Perhaps this is what is 
meant by the saying — It is like heaping coals of fire 
upon their heads ; it will injure them, consume them, 
burn them, destroy them. Suffice it to say, that people 
can be blessed too much. Can you bless a wise man too 
much ? a man who knows what to do with his blessings 
when they are bestowed upon him? No, you, cannot. 
Can you bless a wise people too much ? No, it is im- 
possible, when they know how to improve upon all 
blessings that are bestowed upon them. But the Lord 
does and will bless the inhabitants of the earth with 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 313 

such great and inestimable blessings, in the proclamation 
of the Gospel, that they will be damned who reject 
them, for light brings condemnation to men who love 
darkness rather than light. 

Have this people been blessed too much ? I will not 
positively say, but I think they have, inasmuch as their 
blessings in some instances have been to their injury. 
Why ? Because they have not known what to do with 
their blessings. 

While the brethren were speaking of the liberal hand 
of Providence in bestowing abundantly the products of 
the earth, it occurred to me, that this people, to my 
certain knowledge, had felt that they had too much, and 
they esteemed it as good for nothing. It is true what 
brother Jedediah Grant said with regard to wheat, and 
other grains, for I have seen it myself. I have seen 
hundreds, and thousands, and scores of thousands of 
bushels of grain lying to waste and rot, when it has not 
brought a great price. Many of this people have 
thought, and expressed themselves in language like this 
— " I can go to California, and get so much gold, or I 
can trade and make so much gold, I cannot therefore 
spend time to take care of wheat, nor to raise it ; let it 
lie there and rot while I go and accumulate riches," 
They were then wealthy, for their granaries and barns 
were full of the blessings of the Lord, but now they are 
empty, because they did not know what to do with their 
blessings. 

I can tell this people how to dispose of all their bless- 
ings, if they will only allow me time enough ; and if I 
cannot tell them how, I can show them. For instance, 
you who have fields of wheat, beyond the limits of grass- 
hoppers, will have considerable crops when it is harvest- 

14 



314 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

ed and perhaps so much that you will not know what to 
with it. I know what you ought to do with it ; you 
ought to say to your poor brethren — " Come and help 
take care of my grain, and share with me, and feed 
yourselves and your families. " If you have so much 
that you cannot take care of it, and your neighbor is 
not without bread, tell Bishop Hunter that you have got 
so many hundred bushels to lay over in the store, and 
you will have the benefit of it on your tithing. That is 
what I recommend you to do with your blessings, when 
you have more than you can take care of yourselves. I 
say, hand it over and let your neighbors take care of it 
for you. 

This makes me think of what 1 saw the first year I 
came into this valley, the same year I moved my family, 
which was the next season after the pioneers arrived 
here. It was late in the season when I arrived, but from 
the ground where this house now stands, there had been 
two crops of wheat. They had harvested the first crop 
very early, and the water being flooded over, it again 
started from the roots, and produced a fair crop, say 
from ten to twelve bushels to the acre. That was har- 
vested, and it was coming up again. I said to the 
brethren, " Let these my brethren who have come with 
me gather up this wheat, " but they would not suffer 
them to do it. Some of the brethren had gathered their 
crops of grain, and left a great deal wasting on the fields, 
I said, " Let the poor brethren, who have come in from 
abroad, glean in your fields. " You can bear me wit- 
ness that a great many widows and poor men came here, 
and brought but very little with them, and there never 
was a man, to my knowledge, ever expressed a desire to 
let them glean in his field. " All right, " I said, " we 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 315 

can live on greens," while at the same time there was 
more wasted that season than to make up the deficiency, 
that all might have been comfortable. Late in the fall 
I saw one man working among his corn ; he had a large 
crop, more than a single man could take care of. I saw 
he was going to let it go to waste ; I said to him, " Bro- 
ther, let the brethren and sisters help you to husk your 
corn, to gather it and put it safely away, for so much it 
will benefit them and help you. u O, " he replied, 
" I have nothing to spare, I can take care of it myself." 
I saw it wasting, and said to him, " Brother, get your 
corn husked immediately, and let the brethren do it, 
and pay them with a portion of it." He replied, "I 
cannot spare a bit of it." I have no question of it at 
all in my mind, but three-fourths of his corn went into 
the mud, and was trampled down by the cattle ; and 
women and children went without bread in consequence 
of it. That man had no judgment, he knew not what 
to do with his blessings the Lord had bestowed upon 
him. 

^Vere I to ask the question, how much wheat or any- 
thing else a man must have to justify him in letting it 
go to waste, it would be hard to answer; figures are 
inadequate to give the amount. Never let anything go 
to waste. Be prudent, save everything, and what you 
get more than you can take care of yourselves, ask your 
neighbors to help you. There are scores and hundreds 
of men in this house, if the question were asked them 
if they considered their grain a burthen and a drudge to 
them, when they had plenty last year and the year 
before, that would answer in the affirmative, and were 
ready to part with it for next to nothing. How do they 
feel now, when their granaries are empty ? If they had 



316 TRAVELS AND AD VENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

a few thousand bushels to spare now, would they not 
consider it a blessing ? They would. Why ? Because 
it would bring the gold and silver. But pause for a mo- 
ment, and suppose you had millions of bushels to sell, 
and could sell it for twenty dollars per bushel, or for a 
million of dollars per bushel, no matter what amount, 
so that you sell all your wheat, and transport it out of 
the country, and you are left with nothing more than a 
pile of gold, what good would it do you ? You could 
not eat it, drink it, wear it, or carry it off where you 
could have something to eat. The time will come that 
gold will hold no comparison in value to a bushel of 
wheat. Gold is not to be compared with it in value. 
Why would it be precious to you now ? Simply because 
you could get gold for it ? Gold is good for nothing, 
only as men value it. It is no better than a piece of 
iron, a piece of limestone, or a piece of sandstone, and 
it is not half so good as the soil from which we raise our 
wheat, and other necessaries of life. The children of 
men love it, they lust after it, are greedy for it, and are 
ready to destroy themselves and those around them, 
over whom they have any influence, to gain it. 

When this people are blessed so much that they con- 
sider their blessings a burden and a drudge to them, you 
may always calculate on a cricket war, a grasshopper 
war, a drought, too much rain, or something else to 
make the scales preponderate the oilier way. This peo- 
ple have been blessed too much, so that they have not 
known what to do with their blessings. 

What do we hear from the inhabitants of the different 
settlements? The cry is — "I do not wish to live out 
yonder, for there is no chance to speculate and trade 
« ith the emigrants.'' Have you plenty to eat ? Have 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 317 

you plenty of wheat, fowls, butter, cheese, and calves ? 
Are you not raising stock in abundance for flesh meat 
of different kinds ? What use is gold if you get enough 
to eat, drink, and wear without it ? What is the matter? 
" Why, we are away off, and cannot get rich all at 
once." You are lusting after that which you do not 
know what to do with, for few men know what to do 
with riches when they possess them. The inhabitants 
of this valley have proved it. They have proved it. 
by their reckless waste of the products of the earth, by 
their undervaluing the blessings conferred upon them 
by the emigration, which has administered clothing and 
other necessaries to them. We can see men who can 
clothe themselves and their families easily, go into the 
canons in their broad cloth pantaloons to get wood, or 
you may see them take a horse, and ride bare-backed 
until they tare them to pieces, that they are not fit to 
come to meeting in. They do not know how to take 
care of good clothing. Again, if we were digging in a 
water-ditch to-morrow, that required all hands, in con- 
sequence of the rising of the water, I have no doubt 
but you would see what I saw the other day — one of our 
young dandies, who was perhaps not worth the shirt on 
his back, came to work in a water-ditch, dressed in his 
fine broad-cloth pantaloons, and a fine bosomed shirt, and 
I have no doubt he would have worn gloves too if lie 
had been worth a pair. You would see men of this 
description, who are without understanding, whole 
hearted, good fellows, and ready to do anything for the 
advancement of the public good, commence to dig in 
the mud and wet, in their fine clothes, and go into the 
water, up to their knees, with their fine calf-skin boots. 
This is a wanton waste of the blessings of God, that can- 



318 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

not be justifiable in His eyes, and in the eyes of prudent, 
thinking men, under ordinary circumstances. If pru- 
dence and economy are necessary at one time more than 
another, it is when a family or a nation are thrown upon 
its own resourses, as we are. But you may trace the 
whole lives of some men, and it will be impossible for 
you to point out a single portion of time, when they 
knew how to appreciate and how to use even the com- 
mon comforts of life, when they had them, to say nothing 
of an abundance of wealth. 

Again, there have been more contention and trouble 
between neighbors, in these valleys, with regard to sur- 
plus property, which was not needed by this people, 
than any other thing. For instance, a widow woman 
comes in here from the United States, and turns out on 
the range beyond Jordan, three yoke of oxen and a few 
cows, for she considers she is too poor to have them 
herded. Again, a man comes in with ten yoke of oxen ; 
he also turns them out to wander where they please. 
If he is asked why he does not put them in a herd, he 
will tell you, " I do not want to pay the herding fee." 
Another comes on with three or four span of horses, and 
twenty or thirty yoke of cattle. Has he any for sale ? 
No, but he turns them all out upon the range and they 
are gone. By and by he sends a boy on horseback to 
hunt them, who is unsuccessful in finding them after a 
week's toil. The owner turns out himself, and all 
hands, to hunt up his stock, but they also fail in finding 
them, they are all lost except a very few. He was not 
able to have them herded, he thought, though he pos- 
sessed so much property, and knew nothing more than 
to turn them out to run at large. Thus he consumes his 
time, running after his lost property. He frets his feel- 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 319 

ings, for his mind is continually upon it ; he is in such 
a hurry in the morning to go out to hunt his stock, that 
he has no time to pray ; when he returns home late at 
night, worn out with toil and anxiety of mind, he is 
unfit to pray ; his cattle are lost, his mind is unhinged 
and darkened through the neglect of his duty, and 
apostacy stares him in the face, for he is not satisfied 
with himself, and murmurs against his brethren, and 
against his God. By and by some of his cattle turn up 
with a strange brand upon them ; they have been taken 
up, and sold to this person or that one. This brings con- 
tention and dissatisfaction between neighbor and neigh- 
bor. Such a person has too much property, more than 
he knows what to do with. It would be much better 
for a man who is a mechanic, and intends to follow his 
business, to give one out of two cattle which he may 
possess, to some person, for taking care of the other. It 
would be better for those who possess a great quantity 
of stock, to sell half of them to fence in a piece of 
land, to secure the other half, than to drive them all out 
to run at large, and lose three-fourths of them. If there 
are half-a-dozen men round me, and I can put a cow in 
their way or anything else that will do them any good, 
for fencing up a lot for me, the property I thus pay is 
not out of the world, but is turned over to those men 
win) had not a mouthful of meat, butter, or milk; it is 
doing them good, and I am reaping the profit and bene- 
fit of their labors in exchange. If I did not do this, I 
must either sec them suffer, or make a free distribution 
of a part of what I have among them. 

It is impossible for me to tell you how much a man 
must possess to entitle him to the liberty of wasting any- 
thing, or of letting it be stolen and run away with by 



320 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

the Indians. The surplus property of this community, 
as poor as we are, has done more real mischief than 
everything else besides. 

I will propose a plan to stop the stealing of cattle in 
coming time, and it is this — let those who have cattle 
on hand join in a company, and fence in about fifty 
thousand acres of land, make a dividend of their cattle, 
and appropriate what they can spare, to fence in a large 
field, and this will give employment to immigrants who 
are coming in. When you have done this, then get up 
another company, and so keep on fencing until all the 
vacant land is substantially enclosed. 

Some persons will perhaps say — " I do not know how 
good and how high a fence it will be necessary to build 
to keep thieves out. I do not know either, except you 
build one that will keep out the devil. Build a fence 
which the boys and the cattle cannot pull down, and I 
will ensure you will keep your stock. Let every man 
lay his plans so as to secure for his present necessities, 
and hand over the rest to the laboring man ; keep mak- 
ing improvements, building, and making farms, and 
that will not only advance his own wealth, but the 
wealth of the community. 

A man has no right with property, which, according 
to the laws of the land, legally belongs to him, if he 
does not want to use it ; he ought to possess no more 
than he can put to usury, and cause to do good to him- 
self and his fellow-man. When will a man accumulate 
money enough to justify him in salting it down, or, in 
other words, laying it away in the chest, to lock it up, 
there to lie, doing no manner of good either to himself 
or his neighbor? It is impossible for a man ever to do 
it. No man should keep money or property by him 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 321 

that lie cannot put to usury for tlie advancement of that 
property in value or amount, and for the good of the 
community in which he lives ; if he does, it becomes a 
dead weight upon him, it will rust, canker, and gnaw 
his soul, and finally work his destruction, for his heart 
is set upon it. Every man who has got cattle, money, 
or wealth of any description, bone and sinew, should 
put it out to usury. If a man has the arm, body, head, 
the component parts of a system to constitute him a 
laboring man, and has nothing in the world to depend 
upon but his hands, let him put them to usury. Never 
hide up anything in a napkin, but put it forth to bring 
an increase. If you have got property of any kind, 
that you do not know what to do with, lay it out in 
making a farm, or building a saw mill or a woollen fac- 
tory, and go to with your mights to put all your pro- 
perty to usury. 

If you have more oxen and other cattle than you 
need, put them in the hands of other men, and receive 
their labor in return, and put that labor where it will 
increase your property in value. 

I hope you will now lay your plans to set men to 
work who will be in here by and by, for there will be a 
liost of them, and they will all want employment, who 
trust to their labor for a subsistence ; they will all want 
something to eat, and calculate to work for it. In the 
first place keep the ground in good order to produce 
you plentiful crops of grain, and vegetables, and then 
take care of them. 

Let me say to the sisters, those who have children, 
never consider that you have bread enough around you 
to suffer your children to waste a crust or a crumb of it. 
If a man is worth millions of bushels of wheat and corn, 

14* 



322 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

he is not wealthy enough to suffer his servant girl to 
sweep a single kernel of it into the fire ; let it be eaten 
by something, and pass again into the earth, and thus 
fulfill the purpose for which it grew. Some mothers 
would fill a basket full of bread to make a plaything for 
their children, but I have not had flour enough in the 
time of my greatest abundance, to let my children waste 
one morsel of bread with my consent. No, I would 
rather feed the greatest enemy I have on the earth 
with it, than have it go into the fire. JRemember 
it, do not waste anything, but take care of every- 
thing ; save your grain, and make your calculations, so 
that when the brethren come in from the United States, 
from England, and other places, you can give them 
some potatoes, onions, beets, carrots, parsnips, water- 
melons, or anything else which you have, to comfort 
them, and cheer up their hearts, and if you have wheat, 
dispose of it to them, and receive their labor in return. 
Raise enough and to spare of all the staple necessaries 
of life, and lay your plans to hire your brethren who 
will come in this fall to fence your farms, improve your 
gardens, and make your city lots beautiful. Lay your 
plans to secure enough to feed yourselves, and one or 
two of the brethren that are coming to dwell with us. 

When we first came into the valley, the question was 
asked me, if men would ever be allowed to come into 
this Church, and remain in it and hoard up their pro- 
perty. I say, no. That is a short answer, and it is a 
pointed one. The man who lays up his gold and silver 
who caches it away in a bank, or in his iron safe, or 
buries it up in the earth, and comes here, and professes 
to be a Saint, would tie up the hands of every individu- 
al in this kingdom, and make them his servants if he 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 323 

could. It is an unrighteous, unhallowed, unholy, covet- 
ous principle ; it is of the devil, and is from beneath. 
Let every person who has capital, put it to usury. Is 
he required to bring his purse to me, to any of the 
twelve, or to any person whatever, and lay it at their 
feet ? No, not by me. But I will tell you what to do 
with your means. If a man comes in the midst of this 
people with money, let him use it in making improve- 
ments, in building, in beautifying his inheritance in 
Zion, and in increasing his capital by thus putting out 
his money to usury. Let him go and make a great farm, 
and stock it well, and fortify it all around with a good 
and efficient fence. What for? Why for the purpose 
of spending his money. Then let him cut it up into 
fields, and adorn it with trees, and build a fine house 
upon it. What for ? Why for the purpose of spending 
his money. What will he do when his money is gone ? 
The money thus spent with a wise and prudent hand, is in 
a situation to accumulate and increase a hundred fold. 
When he has done making his farm, and his means still 
increase by his diligent use of it, he can then commence 
and build a woollen factory, for instance, he can send and 
buy the sheep and have them brought here, have them 
herded here, and shear them here, and take care of them, 
then set the boys and girls to cleaning, carding, spinning, 
and weaving the wool into cloth, and thus employ hun- 
dreds and thousands of the brethren and sisters who have 
come from the manufacturing districts of the old coun- 
try, and have not been accustomed to dig in the earth 
for their livelihood, who have not learned anything else 
but to work in the factory. This would feed them, and 
clothe them, and put within their reach the comforts of 
life; it .would also create at home a steady market for 



324 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

the produce of the agriculturist, and the labor of the 
mechanic. When he has spent his hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars, which he began business with, and fed 
five hundred persons, from five to ten years, besides 
realizing a handsome profit from the labor of the hands 
employed, by the increased population, and consequent 
increased demand for manufactured goods, at the end 
of ten years his factory would be worth five hundred 
thousand dollars. Suppose he had wrapped up his hun- 
dred and fifty thousand in a napkin, for fear of losing it, 
it would have sent him down to perdition, for the princi- 
ple is from beneath. But when he puts forth his money 
to usury, not to me or any other person, but where it 
will redouble itself, by making farms, building factories 
for the manufacture of every kind of material necessary 
for home consumption, establishing blacksmiths' shops 
and other mechanical establishments, making extensive 
improvements to beautify the whole face of the earth, 
until it shall become like the garden of Eden, it be- 
comes a saving blessing to him and those around him. 
And when the kings, princes, and rulers of the earth 
shall come to Zion, bringing their gold, and silver, and 
precious stones with them, they will admire and desire 
your possessions, your line farms, beautiful vineyards, 
and splendid mansions. They will say — ' ; We have got 
plenty of money, hut we are destitute of such posses- 
sions as these.'''' Their money loses its value in their 
eyes when compared with the comfortable possessions 
of the Saints, and they will want to purchase your pro- 
perty. The industrious capitalist inquires of one of 
them — "Do- you want to purchase this property? I 
have obtained it by my economy and judgment, and by 
the labor of my brethren, and in exchange for their 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 325 

labor I have been feeding and clothing them, nntil they 
also have comfortable situations, and means to live. I 
have this farm,- which I am willing to sell to enable me 
to advance my other improvements." " "Well," says the 
rich man, " how much must I give you for it?" "Five 
hundred thousand dollars," and perhaps it has not cost 
him more than one hundred thousand. He takes the 
money and builds up three or four such farms, and em- 
ploys hundreds of his brethren who are poor. 

Money is not real capital, it bears the title only. True 
capital is labor, and is confined to the laboring classes. 
They only possess it. It is the bone, sinew, nerve, and. 
muscle of man that subdue the earth, make it yield its 
strength and administer to his varied wants. This 
power tears down mountains and fills up valleys, builds 
cities and temples, and paves the streets. In short, 
what is there that yields shelter and comfort to civilized 
man, that i3 not produced by the strength of his arm 
the making elements bend to his will ? 

I will not ask the question again — How much must 
a man possess to authorize him to ivaste anything f 
Three or four years ago money was of little value in 
this country ; you might go round exhibiting a back 
load of gold, and hold out a large piece to a man, I was 
going to say, almost as big as this Bible, and ask him to 
work for you, but he would laugh at your offer, and tell 
you he was looking for some one to work for him. He 
would then hail another man who had been in Nauvoo, 
and passed through the pinches there, and had scarcely 
a shirt to his back, but he would reply — " I was looking 
for some man to work for me." Gold could not pur- 
chase labor, it was no temptation whatever, but those 
times are passed. It is not now as it was then. I con- 



32G TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

sequently alter my counsel to the brethren. I used to 
command you to hand over your surplus property, or 
that which you could not take care of, to me, and I 
would apply it to a good purpose, but now I counsel 
you to put it into the hands of men who have nothing 
at all, and let them pay you for it in labor. 

I have never been troubled with thieves stealing my 
property. If I am not smart enough to take care of 
what the Lord lends me, I. am smart enough to hold my 
tongue about it, until I come across the thief myself, and 
then I am ready to tie a string round his neck. 

I have not the least hesitation in saying that the loose 
conduct, and calculations, and manner of doing busi- 
ness, which have characterized men who have had pro- 
perty in their hands, have laid the foundation to bring 
our boys into the spirit of stealing. You have caused 
them to do it, you have laid before them every induce- 
ment possible, to learn their hands, and train their minds 
to take that which is not their own. Those young men 
who have been taken up the past season and condemned 
to ignominious punishment, may trace the cause of their 
shame to that foundation. Distribute your property. 
The man that thinks he requires ten yoke of cattle, and 
can only use one yoke, is laboring under a mistake, he 
ought to let nine yoke go to the laboring community. If 
every man would do this with the property which he is 
not using, all would be employed and have sufficient. 
This would be the most effectual means of bringing the 
vile practice of stealing cattle and other property to a 
termination, which, as I have already said, has been en- 
couraged by covetous, selfish men, who have refused to 
use their property for their own good, or the communi- 
ty's. 



USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS. 327 

Let us hold before our mind the miser. If the people 
of this community feel as though they wanted the whole 
world to themselves, hate any other person to possess 
anything, and would hoard up their property, and place 
it in a situation where it would not benefit either them- 
selves-aor the community, they are just as guilty as the 
man who steals my property. You may inquire — 
" What should be done with such a character ?" Why, 

CUT HIM OFF FKOM THE ChUKCII. I WOuld disfdloivship 

a man who had received liberally from the Zo?'d, and re- 
fused to put it out to usury. We know this is right. 

I recollect well the days brother Grant was telling of, 
when it was so hard to raise fifty dollars for brother Jo- 
seph. I also remember we had a man for trial before the 
high council, a man who had plenty of money, and re- 
fused to loan it, or use it for the advancement of the 
cause of truth. He would not put his money out to 
usury. I was going into the council when he was making 
his plea, and he wept and sobbed. His name was Isaac 
Mc Withy, a man about fifty-three years of age. I knew 
him when he lived on his farm in York State. He told 
them, in his plea, what he had done for the cause, that 
he had always been a Christian, and had done so much 
for the churches, and for the priests, and been so liberal 
since he had been in this church, which was between 
three and four years. Some of the brethren said — 
"Brother McWithv, how much do you suppose you 
have ever given for the support of the Gospel ?" The 
tears rolled down his cheeks, and he said, " Brethren, I 
believe I have given away in my lifetime two hundred 
and fifty dollars." I spake out and said, " If I could not 
preach as many months each year in this kingdom as 
you have been years in this Church, and give no more 



328 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

than two hundred and fifty dollars, I should be ashamed 
of myself." 

On one occasion, brother Joseph Young and myself 
had travelled more than two hours among snow, and in 
a piercing cold, to preach in his neighborhood one even- 
ing. Having had no dinner or supper, we went home 
with him, and he never asked us to eat a mouthful of 
supper, though he did muster courage enough to go into 
the cellar with a little basket, he came up with the tears 
almost running down his cheeks, and said with some 
difficulty — " Brethren, have some apples." He held out 
the basket to us, and when we were about to help our- 
selves, his niggardly soul made him draw it back again, 
for fear we should take any. I saw he did not intend 
us to have any apples, so I put my hand on the basket, 
and drew it out of his hand, saying — " Come here." I 
took it on my knees, and invited brother Joseph to eat 
some apples. He did make out to give us some break- 
fast in the morning, and even then he got up from the 
table before we had time to half finish our breakfast, to 
see if we would not give over eating. Said I — " Never 
mind, I shall eat what I want before I stop." 

I am happy to say, through your trustee in trust, that 
the latter-day saints, in the capacity of a church and 
kingdom, do not owe near as much money as they have 
on hand. A year ago last April conference, we owed 
over sixty thousand dollars, but we do not now owe a 
single red cent. 

May God bless us, that we may always have enough, 
and know what to do with what we have, and how to 
use it for the good of all, for I would not give much for 
property unless I did know what to do with it. 



MORMONISM. 329 



"MORMONISM." 

A DISCOURSE DELIVERED BY PARLEY P. PRATT, IN THE 
TABERNACLE, GREAT SALT LAKE CITY. 

I noPE the congregation will lend us their undivided 
attention, and exercise their faith and prayers for those 
that speak, that the truth may be drawn out to the edi- 
fication of all. 

I always feel diffident to address the assemblies of the 
people of God, at the seat of the government of the 
Church, knowing that there are many that can edify 
and enlighten our minds better than I can. I always 
feel that I would sooner hear than speak. Bat neverthe- 
less, I feel it my duty to impart my testimony, and 
exercise my gift among my brethren, according to my 
calling; I therefore shall address you for awhile this 
morning. 

There may be many strangers assembled with us at 
this season of the year ; many are passing through this 
city from different parts of the world. The members 
of the Church need not complain, if I should address 
myself to the people as if they were all strangers, on the 
principles that are sometimes designated " Mormonism ;' ? 
and confine myself to some of the plain, simple, intro- 
ductory principles of that system. It will refresh the 
minds of those acquainted with them, and perhaps 
edify them, and at the same time edify others. 



880 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Suppose I were to ask a question this morning, as a 
stranger, " What is Mormonism ?" I suppose it is known 
to most men at all conversant with principles classed 
under that name, that it, is a nickname, or a name 
applied to the public, and not used officially by the 
Church so called. Mormon was a man, a prophet, an 
author, a compiler, and a writer of a book. Mormon 
was a teacher of righteousness, holding certain doctrines. 
The Church of Jesus Christ of latter-day saints are 
agreed with Mormon, as well as with many other 
ancient writers, and hold to the same principles ; there- 
fore their neighbors have seen fit to call those principles 
they hold, " Mormonism." They might as well have 
called them, Ahrahamism, Enochism, or Isaiahism / 
because the ancient prophets, patriarchs, and apostles, 
held to the same truths in general terms, only differing 
in circumstances, in distant countries and ages of the 
world, and acted upon the same general principles, 
according to the particular circumstances that surrounded 
them. But the world, out of all the ancients, have 
selected one called Mormon, and all the principles 
held by all good inspired men of all ages and countries 
they have seen fit to sum up, and call " Mormonism." 
Well, it is as well as anything else, for aught I know ; 
name does not affect the principles. 

The word of God, as written in the good old Book, 
designates the people of God by the name of Saints ; 
which name is almost or quite as ancient, as any 
writings extant. Saint was spoken of by Enoch long 
before the flood. The same term was applied to the 
people of God by the prophets, the psalmist, and by 
the writers of the New Testament. 

Not only was this term applied to saints in ancient 



M0RM0NISM. 331 

days, but the patriarchs, prophets, and apostles applied 
it prophetically, speaking of the people of God in the 
latter days, when the kingdom should be given to the 
people of God, and the principles of God should bear 
rule over all the earth. Daniel and the other prophets, 
in speaking of this subject, always call them the saints 
of the Most High. They do not call them " Mormon- 
ites," Methodists, Presbyterians, Congregationalists, 
Jews, Pagans, or Mohammedans, nor yet Catholics ; but 
the language of the apostles and prophets is, that the 
Saints of the Most High shall prevail — prevail over the 
world, establish a true order of government, and, in 
short, rule the lower world ; and that all the nations shall 
bow to him who is at their head, and to the principles 
held by them. 

"Why not this be continued and sustained, Oh ye peo- 
ple of Christendom, and, letting these party names go 
by the board, and be classed among the things that 
were in the darker ages, come to the proper and correct 
Scripture language, and when we speak of the people 
of God, call them Saints of the Most High ? 

"Well, then, such is the name that the Church which 
I represent, do their business in. As such, they are 
known on their own records, and on the records of hea- 
ven, inasmuch as they are recognized there. But we 
know what the world mean when they say "Mormon- 
ism," and " Mormon." What are the principles called 
'• Mormonism?" You may ask those who profess to be 
instructors of the people abroad in the States, and else- 
where — and very few of them will give you one correct 
idea in regard to the doctrines of the latter-day saints. 
Indeed, they have not informed themselves, but remain 
in ignorance on the subject; and when they would 



332 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

show others, of course, they cannot inform them correctly 
on that subject. But you will generally be informed, 
that " Mormonism " is a new religion, that it is some- 
thing new under the sun, and of course is an innovation 
— a kind of trespass on Christianity, on the Bible, or on 
the good old way. " Oh," say some of the editors that 
ought to be the most enlightened, and that jn'ofess to be, 
" if Mormonism prevails, Christianity will come down." 

Now suppose that we examine, principle by principle, 
some of the fundamental principles of " Mormonism," 
and see whether there is one item that is new, or that is 
in any way an innovation on Christianity. 

What is the first start towards an introduction of these 
principles in this age, and the organization of a people ? 
What is it that first disturbed the world, or any part of 
it, or called the attention of the people towards it, giv- 
ing rise to the system now called " Mormonism ?" It 
was the ministration of angels to certain individuals ; or 
in other words, certain individuals in this age enjoyed 
open visions. 

Now we will stop, right at this point ; it is called 
" Mormonism." Let us dwell on it. Is that a new prin- 
ciple ? Is it adding something to Christianity, or taking 
something from it? Do not let our modern notions 
weigh anything, but come right to the fact of the mat- 
ter. If Peter the apostle were here to-day, and a per- 
son were to relate to him a vision wherein an ano;el 
appeared to him and said something to him, would Peter 
call together the rest of the apostles, and sit in council 
on that man's head for error ? Would they say to that 
man, " Sir, you have introduced something here in your 
experience that is derogatory to Christianity, and con- 
trary to the system of religion we have taught, and in- 



MOKMONISM. 333 

troduced into the world ?" I need not answer this 
question, neither need I bring Scripture to show what 
were the teachings and experience of Peter and the rest 
of the apostles on this subject. The Bible is too com- 
mon a book, too widely circulated in the world, and the 
people of the United States, especially, are too well read 
in its contents to suppose, for a moment, that Peter or 
the rest of the apostles would condemn a man because 
he believed in the ministration of angels, because he re- 
lated an experience wherein he had had a vision of an 
angel. 

Now that was the principle that disturbed this genera- 
tion, in the commencement of the introduction of that 
which is now called " Mormonism" — a principle as com- 
mon in the ancient church as the doctrine of repent- 
ance. I "will say more — it is a principle that has been 
common in all dispensations ; it is a principle which was 
had before the flood, and fully enjoyed by the ancient 
saints, or at least held to by them ; a principle that was 
common among them ; not that every man attained to 
it. 

But where can we read, under the government of the 
patriarchs, before the flood or after it ; before Moses or 
after him ; before Christ or after Christ — where can we 
read in sacred history of a people of God by whom the 
doctrine of visions and ministering of angels would be 
discarded, or be considered erroneous ? It was common 
to all dispensations, it was enjoyed by the patriarchs and 
prophets under the law of Moses, before it and after it, 
and by the people of God among the ten tribes, and 
among the Jews. We will carry it still further. It was 
enjoyed among the Gentiles, before there was a people 
of God fully organized among them in the days of 



334: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

Christ. Cornelius had the ministering of angels before 
he became a member of the Christian Church, or under- 
stood there was a crucified and risen Redeemer. He 
prayed to the living God, and gave alms of such tilings 
as he had. He was a good man, and an angel came to 
him and told him his prayers were heard, and his alms 
had come up as a memorial before God. 

It is astonishing then, to me, that the modern Chris- 
tian world consider this a new doctrine, an innovation — 
a trespass on Christianity. No ! it is as old as the world, 
and as common among the true people of God, as His 
every day dealings with man. We will leave that point, 
and say, it is the Christian world, and not the latter-day 
saints, that have a new doctrine, provided they discard 
that principle. 

What next? Why, that man, by vision, the minister- 
ing of angels, and by revelation, should be called with 
a high and holy calling — commissioned with a holy mis- 
sion to preach, and teach, and warn, and prophesy, and 
call men to repentance. That was one of the first prin- 
ciples introductory to what is now called " Mormonism" 
in this age. 

Is there anything new about that, anything strange, 
anything that differs from the patriarchal ages, from 
the Jewish economy, the Mosaic dispensation, or from 
the dispensation called Christian ? Similar things hap- 
pened before Moses, in his day, and after his day ; and 
among the prophets, and in different ages. Were not 
such things common in the clays of Jesus Christ, and 
after that in the days of the apostles ? Was not John 
the Baptist thus commissioned? Was not Jesus thus 
commissioned. And were not His apostles, elders, and 
seventies? After his resurrection and ascension into 



MORMONISM. 335 

heaven, were not others called, and ordained under the 
hands of those who were thus commissioned, and called 
sometimes by visions and revelations directing them to 
those who were thus commissioned in order to be or- 
dained ? That was no new doctrine, no innovation on 
Christianity, no perversion of the Scriptural system, nor 
was it anything new, unless you call the old principle 
new. 

Well, then, that the man thus commissioned should 
call upon others to turn from their sins ; and that an in- 
dividual, a government, a house, a city, a nation, or a 
world of people should perish unless they did turn from 
their sins — is that anything new ? No. Every one con- 
versant with the Bible will say, that such things took 
place frequently under all the different dispensations. 
The heathen were warned in this way. Individuals, 
households, cities, nations, and the world have to be 
warned in this way, and especially under the Christian 
dispensation. So there was a special commission given 
to the servants of God, to go to all the world, and call 
upon everybody to repent, or whole nations should be- 
come disfranchised, scattered, and millions be destroyed, 
as for instance the Jews at Jerusalem, because they 
would not hearken to it. It is nothing new, to cry to 
all men to repent, and warn different cities and nations 
of wars coming upon them, or that they will be damned 
if they do not repent. This is one of the early princi- 
ples called " Mormonism." Is there anything new in 
this ? Is there anything strange or unscriptural ? No ; 
no sensible professing Christian will maintain such a 
point for a moment. 

Suppose that some people should hearken, when the 
ministering of angels takes place. Among many men 



336 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

one certain man is commissioned by revelation to preach 
the Gospel, and cry repentance. Suppose that some per- 
sons should hearken and repent, and he should take them 
and walk down to the water, and bury them in the water 
in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the 
Holy Ghost, and raise them again out of the water, to 
represent the death and burial of Jesus Christ, and his 
resurrection from the dead ; and to represent the faith 
of the individual thus ministered to, that he does believe 
in Jesus Christ, that he died, and that he did rise from 
the dead, and that he, the individual, does put his trust 
and confidence in him for the remission of sins and eter- 
nal life — is that anything new ? Would that be new to 
Peter ? Suppose some person was to relate before Peter 
and Paul to-day, and the Christians with them, that lived 
when they lived — suppose they were all present, and 
this person told them that a man came along preaching 
repentance, and he called upon us to believe in Jesus 
Christ, and we did so, believing their testimony, and 
they took us and buried us in water, and raised us again 
out the water unto newness of life — would Peter or John 
blame him ? Would Paul say, " It is something new ?" 
Or would he say, " Brother, thousands of us received the 
very same thing in ancient clays ?" 

The Catholic Church profess to be the true church — 
the ground and pillar of the truth, handed down by 
regular succession from the ancient church, of which 
they are still members ; and their priesthood and apos- 
tles are now of the very same church which the New 
Testament calls the true Church at Pome. These 
Roman Catholics of modern times profess to be members 
of that very same church that Paul wrote that epistle 
to. If they are, I will show you to demonstration, if the 



MOKMONISM. 337 

Scriptures be true, that this doctrine called " Mormon- 
ism " is not a new doctrine, Paul, writing to that church, 
of which they profess to be members, says, Know ye 
not, brethren, ye Romans, that as many of you as have 
been baptized into Christ have been baptized into his 
death, being buried with him by baptism into death, 
that like as Christ rose from the dead, even so ye may 
walk in newness of life ? Now this epistle containing 
this doctrine was written by Paul to the Church at 
Rome, and which these modern people called Roman 
Catholics profess to be members of. If they are what 
they profess to be, every one of them have been buried 
with Christ in baptism, and have risen again to newness 
of life. We will, however, leave them to describe 
whether that is really the case, or whether they are con- 
tented to sprinkle a few drops of water on an infant's 
face and call that a burial ! Paul said that was a prin- 
ciple of the true Church of Rome that had been buried 
with Christ by baptism into death, and had risen to new- 
nesa of life. Have these modern Roman Catholics gone 
forward repenting of their sins, and been buried in 
water, in the likeness of Jesus Christ according to this 
pattern ? If they have not, they are a spurious Church 
of Rome, and not real. Therefore, if they be the real 
Church of Rome, it will be no new thing to them when 
the latter-day saints inform them upon being buried 
with Christ in the likeness of his death, etc. If this is 
a new doctrine to them, they had better be looking 
about them to see if they have not got up a counterfeit 
Church of Rome, for Paul knew of only one, and the 
members of it were all buried with Christ in baptism. 

If 500 persons hen- were to say they came repenting 
of their sins, and went down and were buried in the 

15 



338 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

waters of baptism, and had risen again to walk in new- 
ness of life, Paul would say, if lie were here, " It is just 
what we used to do in ancient times; and I wrote to the 
Church of Rome, telling them that as many as were 
baptized into Christ were baptized into his death, buried 
with him by baptism into death," etc. 

Now if this doctrine is new to the Church of Rome, 
then that is that church, that priesthood, and those 
members that have introduced something new, who are 
departing from the old Christian religion, and not the 
" Mormons." 

This reasoning applies just the same to the Church of 
England. They have just as good a right to have a 
Church in England as anywhere else — to have a national 
Church of England by law established, but if they are 
a true Church of God, all of them have been buried 
with Christ in baptism, etc., or the apostle must have 
been mistaken, or there are two different kinds of Gos- 
pel. 

Now if I were speaking to the state Church of Eng- 
land, or the state churches of the Catholic world, I 
would tell them in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ 
to repent of their new doctrine, and come back to the 
old standard spoken of by the Apostle, when he says, 
" though we or an angel from heaven preach any other 
Gospel unto you than that which we have preached 
unto you, let him be accursed," etc. 

I need not go through with this same application 
upon the Lutherans, upon the Presbyterians, upon the 
Methodists, and others, for all these peojile sprinkle 
infants ; for the principle once carried out will apply to 
the whole. If they are Christians according to the due- 
trine of the ancient church, they hold the doctrine of 



MOKMONISM. o39 

1lie apostles, they have repented of their sins, after 
believing on the Lord Jesus Christ, and have been 
btjkied with Christ by baptism into death, etc. If 
not, they may judge themselves, for I will not judge 
them. If they have got a new doctrine, different from 
that believed by the apostles, and the latter-day saints 
have got the old one, why not say, then, "If sectarian- 
ism prevails, Christianity, as held by the Mormons will 
be in danger," instead of saying the opposite? Why 
not turn the thing right about? If we have no one new 
principle in our religion, why are we considered innova- 
tors, and opposed to Christianity ? And why is Chris- 
tianity in the world in danger if " Mormonism " prevails ? 
It is because that floating Christianity, called so by the 
world, is a spurious one ; they have departed from the 
doctrine of the apostles. Then, I ask again, why say, 
" If Mormonism prevails, Christianity is in danger?" for 
if it is a false Christianity, the quicker it falls the better. 
A\ r e have examined three general principles, to see if 
there is anything new in " Mormonism." First, the 
ministering of angels. Second, the commission of min- 
isters, apostles, prophets, and elders to administer in 
holy things, by revelation and the authority of heaven. 
Third, that all those that hear them, believe their words, 
and repent of their sins, shall go down into the waters 
of baptism, and be immersed or buried in the name of 
the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, and 
thus show that they do believe in a crucified and risen 
Redeemer, and in the remission of sins through His 
name. So far, I think, we have fairly stated some of 
the first principles of what the world calls "Mormon- 
ism ;" and every one who has heard us, must decide that 
there is nothing new in these principles, but rather, that 



340 TKAYELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

those who have departed from them, are justly charge- 
able with introducing new things, and innovations on 
Christianity. 

Now suppose that one, two, or a dozen, or a hundred 
thousand, or even millions of individuals thus baptized, 
should all come together, in their several congregations, 
and should unite in earnest prayer, and a man commis- 
sioned in the ministry of Jesus Christ should rise and 
lay his hands on them, praying the Almighty God to 
give the Holy Spirit, and it be given as in days of 
old, and he confirms that promise upon them according 
to the pattern in the New Testament — would that be 
something new? Would it be an innovation upon 
Christianity ? Would it be right to say " this is Mor- 
monism, come to do away with Christianity ?" Why, 
no ! Every sensible man at all acquainted with the 
Holy Scriptures, would laugh at the idea. If the 
ancient saints were here, they would tell you it was 
their ancient manner ; they would ask you if you had 
not read over their history, which describes how the 
Holy Spirit was administered in days of old. Every 
man who has read the Bible, knows it. 

Well, then, the different sections of what is called 
Christianity, never do this, and call it something new. 
When the " Mormons " do it, they are at once charged 
with innovation ; and yet we have not got anything 
new in that respect, but simply a restoration of that 
which was. They are the persons chargeable with new 
doctrine, and not the latter-day saints. 

Well, then, suppose that after this ordinance, the Holy 
Spirit falls upon these congregations, or upon these in- 
dividuals thus baptized and confirmed, and fills them, 
and enlightens their minds, and bears testimony to them 



MORMONISM. ?Al 

of the truth which they have received, and confirms 
them in the faith of it, and fills them with the spirit of 
utterance and prayer, and with gifts whereby they pro- 
phesy, or speak in tongues, lay hands on the sick and 
they recover, in the name of Jesus, or whereby they are 
filled with the spirit of any gift, renewed in their utter- 
ance, strengthened in their powers of intellect, so as to be 
able to speak with eloquence to the edification of others by 
the word of wisdom, knowledge and prophecy ; or perad- 
venture some one, two, or three of them have a heavenly 
vision, and happen to relate it — is this something new ? 
Are these things an innovation on Christianity ? 

Let the apostles of the ancient church come up now, 
and be judges, not these innovators. Oh yes, saints of 
ancient days, are these things new to you ? " No, " 
they reply, " but just exactly what we used to have 
among us ; and. you who have read the New Testament 
know* it is so. " If this, then, is Mormonism, it is no- 
thing new, but simply that which should have been in 
the world in order to constitute true Christianity. 

Now suppose, after all these have been established, 
the people organize on them ; and that in the enjoyment 
and cultivation of them, this people unite their efforts, 
both temporally and spiritually, to build up themselves 
as a people, and each other as individuals, in righteous- 
ness upon the earth ; and the Spirit of the Lord God 
into which they were all baptized, should make them 
very great in union — in union of effect, in counsel, in 
operation, in fellowship, in temporal things in a great 
measure, and in spiritual things, by which they are all 
of one heart and mind to a great degree, and growing 
in it every day — is this something new, because it is 
"Mormonism?" Or is this the very doctrine which 



34:2 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

was inculcated in days of old by the apostles of Jesus 
Christ ? 

It was the main object for which the Holy Spirit was 
given, that they might all grow up in union, in fellow- 
ship, in co-operation, in holiness in the Lord. No man 
who has read the New Testament, will say this is new, 
when we say that the great object of the Gospel is, that 
we may all become one in Christ Jesus — one in know- 
ledge, and in the love and practice of the peaceable 
things of God. Is it anything new ? No. Well, it is 
a part of what the world calls " Mormonism ; " and I 
would to God it was more perfected among this people 
than it is. 

If any one of these principles in practice, should pre- 
vail over the whole world, it would be nothing new ; 
but the world only hold this last as a theory ; as to the 
practice of it, they are strangers. 

We have examined five or six general principles, 
called " Mormonism," and found nothing new in them. 
" But," says one, "I heard you had got a new Bible ; 
that is certainly an innovation." But stop ; suppose, on 
inquiry, you become as much surprised and disappointed 
as many have who have asked for a " Mormon Bible," 
and when we have presented them with one, behold it 
is King James' translation of the Scriptures, the stand- 
ard we read, containing the covenants, predictions, and 
hopes of the ancients, and the doctrines of Jesus Christ, 
jnst as we believe them, and hope for their fulfillment. 
Is that anything new ? 

"Well, if you have not a new Bible, you have 
certainly got a new book." Is that any thing strange ? 
Have not other societies got new books ? The Church 
of England have not only the Scriptures, but the book 



MOKMONISM. 343 

of Common Prayer, and the time was when they did 
not have such a book, therefore when they made that, it 
was something new. They are not alone in that, how- 
ever, for the Methodists have a new book called the 
"Methodist's Discipline." One hundred and twenty 
years ago there was no such thing in existence. If 
having a new book be an innovation, then all are guilty 
of it as well as the " Mormons." 

" But those other people do not profess that their 
books are inspired, and we have learned that you have 
a book that you believe is inspired. What is it, any 
how ? " This is all a fact, and if it is wrong we will 
cheerfully plead guilty. . We have got another book 
besides the Bible, that was an ancient book, and profess 
that it was inspired, and was written by prophets, and 
men that enjoyed the ministering of angels, more or less 
of them, and had communion with the heavens, and the 
spirit of prophecy. And moreover, we profess that this 
ancient book was restored to the knowledge of the 
modern world by inspiration, and the ministering of 
angels. Is that something new ? It may be new to the 
world in its history, and in its bearings; in that respect 
it may be new to them ; but suppose, after all, it should 
contain no new doctrine, no new principle, no new pro- 
phecy, that is differing from or doing away that which 
is already extant in the Bible ? Well, then, I do not 
say that it would be a new doctrine. Men had books 
revealed in the days of old. 

" If it is no new doctrine, and if its predictions do not 
differ from those contained in the old and new Testaments, 
what is the use of it ? " The same question was inves- 
tigated in ancient times. A great conqueror had taken 
possession of an ancient library, when there were no 



344 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

printing presses, containing one hundred thousand 
volumes, all in manuscript, comprising more history 
than was in any library extant in the ancient world. 
The conqueror was a Mahommedan. He wrote to the 
head of the department to know what he would do with 
this library. It was invaluable in its cost and intrinsic 
worth. " What shall I do with it ? " The reply was, 
" If it agrees with the Koran, we have no use for it ; and 
if it does not agree with the Koran, it is false anyhow ; 
so in either case burn it." 

"Now if these latter-day saints have a book extant 
among them, and it agrees with the Bible, there is no kind 
of use for it," says the opposer, " for the Bible contains all 
that is necessary ; if it does not agree with the Bible, it is 
false anyhow; so in either case burn it," This was a 
principle of Mahommedanism, and may be a principle of 
what is called modern Christianity. I hope not, however. 

" What is the use of the book in question, anyhow ? " 
Why, in the first place, it differs in its history from the 
Bible. The Bible is a history of things that took place 
in Asia principally, and a little of what took place in 
Europe and Africa. The book of Mormon is a history 
of things in another hemisphere. The one book is the 
ancient history of the eastern hemisphere, in part ; and 
the other is a history of the western hemisphere, in 
part. Shall we say, because we have the history of one 
part of the world, that the history of the other part of 
the world is good for nothing ? Could the rulers of na- 
tions realize that fact, and could they only have a copy 
in their libraries at the cost of $100,000, they would 
appropriate it for this history of the western hemi- 
sphere. 

Discredit it as you will, we have it in genuineness 



MORMONISM. 345 

and in truth, written by the ancient prophets that lived 
upon this land, and revealed in modern times by the 
ministering of angels, and inspiration from the Almighty. 
It is in the world, and the world cannot get it out of the 
world. It is in the world in six or seven languages of 
Europe. It is as important in its history as the Bible, 
and it is just as interesting and as necessary for men to 
gel an understanding of the ancient history of America, 
as it is for them to get an understanding of the history 
of Asia. 

" But are the merits of history all that it is good for?" 
It is good in doctrine also. If two or more writers, one 
living in Asia, and the other in America, and cotempo- 
rary, have the same doctrine revealed to them, and 
both bear record of the same plan of salvation, who 
is he that shall say that the record of one is of no 
worth \ 

Is it not a satisfaction to sit down and read that a 
country tar removed from Bible scenes, from that part 
of the stage on which figured the patriarchs of old, 
with Moses and the Jewish prophets, John the Baptist, 
Jesus Christ, and the apostles, was also the theatre of 
revelation, prophecy, visions, angels, of the ministration 
of the doctrine of Christ, of the organization and gov- 
ernment of his true church ? that there too were angels, 
that there too were apostles, that there too was the 
word of God, that there too faith came by hearing, and 
salvation by faith ? Shall we say that such things and 
such good news are worth nothing, when that very news 
corroborates the song of the heavenly hosts, when they 
declared to the shepherds of Judea, in joyful songs, that 
they brought glad tidings of great joy, that should be 
to all people ! And here comes a book informing us 



316 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

that these glad tidings were also to another hemisphere 
at the same time. 

Now, stop a moment, and let ns reason. Suppose 
yourself an angel of God at that time, full of benevo- 
lence, full of joy, full of a soul-inspiring hope, full of 
charity for poor, ignorant, perishing mortals, and you 
felt so full of poetry, and song, and gladness, that you 
could scarcely hold your peace. Suppose you had a 
bird's eye view of our little, dark, benighted world, by 
soaring above it, and in a moment you could light 
down upon any part of it. You come to Palestine, in 
Asia ; that part of the globe is rolling under your feet ; 
you visit it, and sing to the shepherds the glorious 
tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people : " for 
unto you is born this day in the city of David, a Saviour 
which is Christ the Lord." The earth rolls on about 
half way round, you look down again with a bird's eye 
view, and you discover the western hemisphere, and it 
is full of people ; I wonder whether your soul would 
still swell with the same glad tidings — or would your 
charity have become exhausted ? "Would you not fly 
and declare these glad tidings to them also, and sing 
them a song of joy, and tell them what day the Saviour 
was born, that would reach their case as well as the 
case of those who dwelt .upon the continent of Asia? 
" Yes," you reply, " if I were an angel, and had liberty 
to tell these glad tidings, I would never tell them to one 
part of the earth and go to sleep there, while the other 
part rolled under my feet unnoticed." 

Were those angels commissioned and endow r ed to bear 
glad tidings to all people, that the Saviour was born ? 
I say that the choir of angels which sang that song, had 
full liberty, not only to tell the plan of salvation to 



M0EM0NI8M. 347 

chosen vessels of the Lord in one country, but also to 
another country — not only that the Saviour was born, in 
general terms, but the place where, and the time when, 
he was born. These were the tidings, "Go to all peo- 
ple." An angel must be a limited being, or be very 
ignorant in geographical knowledge, or partake largely 
of sectarian feelings of heart, to bear such tidings to one 
half of the globe, and not to the other. 

I knew an infidel once, that did not believe in the 
Christian religion, nor in the New Testament, nor in the 
.Saviour of the world. I asked him why he did not be- 
lieve this. " Because," says he, " according to the New 
Testament the manifestation of such an important affair 
was so limited. Here was halt' of the world, according 
to the New Testament, that never heard of it. A mes- 
sage so important should have been made more public.'" 

" Well," said I, " if I will produce you a record, and 
a history, as well authenticated as the New Testament, 
showing that angels, the risen Saviour, holy inspired 
prophets and apostles, ministered in the western hem- 
isphere, and preached the gospel to every creature, and 
handed it down, to ages, will you then believe?" 
"Yes," he answered, "I will." I presented him the 
Book of Mormon, which he perused. I inquired if he 
now believed. " Yes." he said, " I do ;" and he has 
lived a Christian until now, for ought I know. I have 
seen him in this congregation, and he may be here to- 
day. His name is Alger. 

AVhat objection have you to the hope of eternal life 
being as widely developed as the ravages of death, sor- 
row, and mourning ? AVhat objection have you to the 
angels of God, apostles of God, the Son of God, or to 
the Holy Spirit of prophecy being poured out in more 



348 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

countries than one ? You may say the keys of the Gos- 
pel were given to the Jewish apostles, but they were 
so far off as not to be able to reach the western hemis- 
phere, even if they had had a knowledge of it. Were 
there ships and steam vessels to bear them to this coun- 
try? No. Was there any communication kept up, or 
was this country known to them ? No. But the waves, 
and winds, and elements, and the great depths that in- 
tervened, even the unexplored ocean, said to the ancient 
apostles, " Thus far shall ye go, and no further." This 
ocean, however, was no barrier to the fleet-footed angel of 
God, to the risen Jesus, and to immortal man. They 
could come to this hemisphere, and reveal the things of 
heaven to the people, and could rejoice in the same 
glad tidings, whether it was here or in Jerusalem, or 
if it were in the uttermost parts of the earth. 

Though Peter was crucified at Rome, and Paul suf- 
fered in the same manner; though saints of the .Most 
High were slaughtered by thousands and tens of thou- 
sands, and bled at the feet of Roman altars ; yet a cruci- 
fied and risen Redeemer, angels of God, and the Holy 
Spirit of truth that fills all things, were not thus cur- 
tailed and limited, but could minister truth to the utter- 
most bounds of the universe of God, where intelligences 
were mourning in darkness ; wherever the ravages of 
death had spread sorrow, wherever there was a broken 
heart to be bound up, or wherever there was a despair- 
ing mortal to be inspired with hope, they could go and 
tell the glad tidings of life and salvation. The Book ot 
Mormon says they did come to this continent. It is a 
history of their coming, and contains the doctrine 
taught to the people here by the risen Jesus, and by his 
predecessors. In short, the doctrine taught and prac- 



MOKMONISM. 349 

tised in ancient America is there portrayed, together 
with the history of the people. 

Again, is this book of no interest with regard to the 
prophetic value ? It reveals many things not noticed 
by the Jewish prophets. Did the old prophets touch 
upon every item that pertains to man in other countries? 
Ho, they did not, only in general terms together with 
the rest of the world. These other prophets portrayed 
many things not in their hook, though agreeing with it 
;w far as it goes, but touching events on which their 
book is silent. 

Has any person any cause to say that there has not 
been a multiplicity of revelations, testimony, prophecy, 
history and doctrine, developed in various countries by 
the same Spirit of God, and by angels? And is not all 
this of great worth, to compare, in order to blend it to- 
gether, that we may see more clearly the principles of 
the doctrines of salvation, and understand prophecy 
more extensively, especially in an age when the mind 
has been obscured by priestcraft. 

If these are the principles of " Mormonism," where 
can you point out an innovation on Christianity? But is 
this all ? No, this is not all, and I shall not tell it all to- 
day. I do not know it all yet. I have been twenty- 
three years learning " Mormonism," and I know but 
little of it. If any one expects to learn all the doctrines 
of " Mormonism," he must learn more than twenty-three 
years. For be it known unto you all, that " Mormon- 
ism," instead of being confined to a few dogmas or gen- 
eral truths, opens the flood-gates of all truth and knowl- 
edge, and teaches mankind to retain all the truth they 
can already comprehend, and comprehend as much more 
as they can all the time. 



350 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

" Have you not other books ?" Yes, we have histo- 
ries and compilations of the dealings of God with us as 
a people. We keep a record, if you must know, not 
only individually some of us, but as a church, as a body, 
or community. We have revelation penned, revelations 
and visions penned, we have revelation and prophecy 
penned, we have knowledge penned, we have knowledge 
and principle penned, we have principle and history 
penned ; the history comprising but a small portion, such 
as can be written, revealed to us latter-day saints, and 
practised upon ; so that our modern books are like the 
ancient books — a mixture of revelation, prophecy, his- 
tory, and doctrine. Has any person any objections to 
this? I ask, should an angel administer to this or that 
man, or suppose an open vision was manifested to him, 
revealing many precious truths, would he not be a sim- 
pleton not to write it? If the power of God, and the 
ministering of God, and the visions of the Almighty are 
extant in the world, these will be written. The practi- 
cal part of history will be written, for if all were writ- 
ten, the world would not contain the books. The an- 
cient apostles and prophets wrote a few of the items re- 
vealed to them, and a history of the practical workings 
of the system over which they presided. Do we differ 
from them ? No. 

" Well," says one, " to be plain with you, Mr. Speaker, 
we have been taught to believe that the one book, called 
the Bible, contains all the revelations that God ever re- 
vealed to man, therefore it is an innovation to offer any- 
thing else to the world as a revelation." This is a tra- 
dition of your own, so I have nothing to do with it. The 
Bible never taught that to you, nor angels, neither did 
any minister of God ever teach it to you ; and if it is a 



MORMONISM. 



351 



modern sectarian tradition, it is calculated to bind men 
into a cast iron creed, and the sooner you break the fet- 
ters the better; burst them asunder, and come out into 
liberty and freedom, and know and understand that 
there is no such doctrine in the broad principles of eter- 
nal truth, that heaven is full of knowledge, and the earth 
ought to be full of prophets, heaven and earth full of 
angels, and both full of inspiration; and if the inhabit- 
ants of all the worlds of the universe were scribes, 
every blade of grass a pen, and every ocean ink, they 
could not write all the doings of the Almighty, of His 
servants, and of His angels. If I were to live for mil- 
lions of years to come, and then millions of millions 
more, I expect there would always be some being ready 
to reveal something new, and somebody would write it. 
The art of writing will never cease. We may not have 
pens and ink, but we may have something better. Suf- 
fice it to say, that the arts and sciences will not come to 
an end, yet man may have been traditionated to believe 
that one small book contains all that God ever said or 
did. Such persons are to be pitied, and not to be rea- 
soned with. 

What is "Mormonism?" It is a restoration by new 
revelation, by the authorities of heaven, by the minis- 
tration of angels, by the ordination of prophets and 
apostles, and ministers or elders, by their testimony 
and ministry on the earth, by the organization of saints, 
by the administration of ordinances, by the operations 
of the Holy Spirit ; it is a restoration of these ancient 
principles revealed from heaven, for the government of 
man. 

Says one, " You have said you are not going to tell 
the whole system to-day." I do not know it all, and I 



352 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

shall not state the half I do know. What I have said 
are a few every day items, a few of the first principles 
of the Gospel of Christ, as believed and practised by the 
" Mormons." 

I will tell one more before I close. " Yonr marria- 
ges," says the objector, " are founded upon principles 
entirely new, and different from the Christian world." 
I say, without any hesitancy, I defy the world to estab- 
lish that assertion. I say our marriage relations are 
nothing new at all. There is no man, or set of men, or 
nation of men, where the Bible is extant, and they are 
readers, but what know that the institutions of marriage 
contained in the Bible, and the organization of families, 
differ widely from modern Christianity. We differ from 
modern Christianity, but not from the Bible. Patri- 
archs of the remotest ages, that obeyed the Lord God in 
regard to their marriages and family organizations, have 
not disagreed with us, nor we with them, so far as we 
and they have obeyed the law of God. If there is any 
difference at all, it was more developed among them 
than it is among us, we being in our infancy. If it 
should happen to be, that the whole modern world dif- 
fer from the Bible — have done away with the law of 
God, and we have come in contact with them, instead 
of with the word of God, then the boot is on the other 
foot, and in reality what is said to us applies to them. 
It is like the farmer and the lawyer. A certain fanner 
came to a neighboring lawyer, and frankly confessed 
that his bull had had the misfortune to kill one of his 
(the lawyer's) oxen. The lawyer replied, " Thou art a 
very honest fellow, and will not think it wrong that I 
have one of thy oxen in return." "But," said the far- 
mer, " I am mistaken, it was thy bull that killed my 



MORMONISM. 353 

ox." " O," replied the lawyer, " that alters the case, 
and if — if — i-f — ." 

Now, then, if it is the whole Christian world, from 
Catholicism down to the latest of her daughters, that 
have made void the law of God, and trampled under 
foot the institutions of heaven, the holy principles of 
matrimony and family government, and have made them 
void also, by their traditions, and introduced that which 
God never did ; and " Mormonism" has restored the law 
of God, in theory and practice, then it is the so-called 
Christian world, and not us, that are wrong. Whether 
it regards family organization, the law of God, patriar- 
chal government, ordinances, principles and prophecy, 
I know of nothing new, or of nothing wherein we are 
innovators. 

As I said before, and I am able to maintain it when 
called upon, "Mormonism" is a system which was un- 
derstood and enjoyed by the ancients, and restored unto 
us by revelation. And if carried out, what will it do ? 
It will simply fulfill the sayings of the prophets, both 
ancient and modern, put down all wickedness, abuse, 
proscription, misrule, oppression, ignorance, darkness, 
and tyranny, and restore mankind to righteousness, 
truth, liberty, law and government, in which the Lord's 
will will be done on the earth as it is in heaven. That 
is what "Mormonism" will do, when carried out. 

May God bless you all. Amen. 



3^4 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 

A SERMON DELIVERED BY ELDER JOHN TAYLOR, AT THE 

GENERAL CONFERENCE, IN THE TABERNACLE, GREAT 

SALT LAKE CITY. 

It rejoices my heart to hear the principles that have 
been advanced this day by our President, because they 
have their foundation in truth, and based upon the prin- 
ciples of equity, and are calculated to promote the hap- 
piness, well-being, exaltation and glory of man, in 
time, and throughout eternity. They lead us back into 
eternity : they existed with us there, and in all the vari- 
ous stages of man's existence they are calculated to ele- 
vate and ennoble him, and place him in a proper 
position before God, angels and men. They will put 
him in possession of his legitimate right, save him from 
the grasp of the adversary, from every subtle strategem 
of the powers of darkness, and place him in his proper 
station in time and in eternity. 

I have been much pleased with and edified by the 
remarks that have been made upon this stand during the 
conference. Wisdom has been displayed in them ; from 
them the intelligence of heaven have beamed forth, the 
mysteries of eternity have been spread before our minds, 
and v;a have had a view of heavenly things, that has 
fir -jur hearts with joy and our mouths with praise. 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 355 

Tt has made ns feel as though we were upon the thresh- 
old of eternity; as though we were eternal beings, and 
had to do with eternal things ; as though the things of 
this world were short, fleeting and evanescent, not 
worthy of a thought when compared with those things 
that are calculated to exalt and ennoble us in time and 
in eternity. 

The principles of justice, righteousness, and truth, 
which have an endless duration, can alone satisfy the 
capacious desires of the immortal soul. We may amuse 
ourselves like children do at play, or engage in the fri- 
volities of the dance. We may take our little enjoy- 
ments in our social assemblies, but when the man comes 
t<> reflect, when the Saint of God considers, and the 
visions of eternity are open to his view, and the unal- 
terable purposes of God are developed to his mind — 
when he contemplates his true position before God, 
angels and men, then he soars above the things of time 
and sense, and bursts the cords that bind him to earthly 
objects ; he contemplates God and his own destiny in 
the economy of heaven, and rejoices in a blooming hope 
of an immortal glory. 

Such have been some of our feelings, while our minds 
have been carried away from the things of earth to con- 
template the things with which eternal beings are asso- 
ciated, and the glories that await us in the everlasting 
mansions of the Gods. 

The principles that we have to do with, then, are 
eternal, and not simply to play a game upon the checker 
of mortality, on which people can win and lose for the 
time being. We have to do with that which shall con- 
tinue 

"While life, and thought and being last, 
Or immortality endures." 



356 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

We seek not to build our hopes upon tilings that are 
evanescent, fleeting and transitory. 

It is not he that can play the best game at checkers, 
that can take the most advantage of his neighbor, that 
can grasp the most earthly good, or that can put him- 
self in possession of anything his heart desires pertain- 
ing to time, that is the most happy ; but it is he who 
does to that which will last, live and continue to abide 
with him while " immortality endures" and still be on 
the increase, worlds without end. 

If we can possess principles of this kind, then we are 
safe, everything else amounts to an illusion or a delusion, 
which cannot satisfy the desires of the mind, but, as the 
prophet says, it is like a thirsty man who dreams he is 
drinking, but when he awakes, he is faint, and his soul 
is thirsty ; he dreams that he is eating, and when he 
awakes his soul is empty. This is the true situation of 
all men who are without God in the world; and nothing 
but a knowledge of eternal principles, of eternal laws, 
of eternal governments, of eternal justice and equity, 
and of eternal truth, can put us right, and satiate the 
appetite of the immortal soul. 

If w r e make not a just estimate of these things, it is in 
vain that we attempt to say, " Lord, Lord," because we 
do not the things which he says. Every thing associa- 
ted with the Gospel of salvation is eternal, for it existed 
before the " morning stars sang together for joy," or this 
world rolled into existence. It existed then, just as it 
exists now with us, and it will exist the same when 
time with us is no more. It is an eternal principle, and 
every thing associated with it is everlasting. It is like 
the priesthood of the Son of God, "without beginning 
of clays or end of years." It lives and abides for ever. 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 357 

If there is any principle that is not eternal, it is not a 
principle of the gospel of life and salvation. 

There are many changes and shifting scenes that may 
influence the position of mankind, under different circum- 
stances, in this state of mortality ; but they cannot influ- 
ence or change the gospel of the Son of God, or the eter- 
nal truths of heaven; they remain unchangeable; as it 
is said very properly by the Church of England, in one 
of their homilies, " as it was in the beginning, is now, 
and ever shall be, worlds without end." If nothing else 
they say is true, that is, and I can say amen to it with 
all my heart. All true principles are right, and if pro- 
perly understood and appreciated by the human family, 
to them they are a fountain of eternal good. 

The principle of " heirship," which President Young 
preached about to-day, is a principle that is founded on 
eternal justice, equity and truth. It is a principle that 
emanated from God. As was said by some of our 
brethen this morning, there maybe circumstauces arise 
in this world to pervert for a season the order of God, 
to change the designs of the Most High, apparently, for 
the time being, yet they will ultimately roll back into 
their proper place — justice will have its place, and so 
will mercy, and every man and woman will yet stand in 
their true position before God. If we understand our- 
selves correctly, we must look upon ourselves as eternal 
beings, and upon God as our Father, for we have been 
taught when we prayed to say, "Our Father, which art 
in heaven, hallowed be thy name." We have fathers in 
the flesh, and we do them reverence, how much more 
shall we be in subjection to the Father of Spirits and 
life. I need not enter into any proof in relation to this, 
for it is well understood by the Saints that God is the 



858 TRAVELS AND ADVENTDEKS IN THE FAB WEST. 

Father of our spirits, and that when we go hack into 
His presence, we shall know Him, as we have known 
our earthly parents. We are taught to approach Him 
as we would an earthly parent, to ask of Him such 
blessings as we need ; and He has said, " If a son ask 
bread of his father shall he give him a stone, or if he 
ask for fish, a scorpion? If ye then, being evil, know 
how to give good gifts unto your children, how much 
more will your Heavenly Father give His holy Spirit 
to them that ask Him." 

We have a Father, then, who is in heaven. He has 
placed us on this earth for some purpose. We found our- 
selves in posession of bodies, mental faculties, and reason- 
ing powers. In a word, we found ourselves intelligent 
beings, with minds capable of recalling the past and 
launching into the unborn future with lightning speed ; 
and were it not for this earthly tabernacle, this tenement 
of clay, they would soar aloft and contemplate the un- 
veiled purposes of Jehovah in the mansions of the 
redeemed. We found ourselves here with minds capa- 
ble of all this and more. God, who has ordained all 
things from before the foundation of the world, is our 
Father. He placed us here to fulfill His wise and uner- 
ring counsels, that we might magnify our calling, honor 
our God, obtain an exaltation, and be placed in a more 
glorious, exalted and dignified position than it would 
have been possible for us to enjoy if we had never taken 
upon us these bodies. This is my faith ; it is the faith 
of this people. 

I have no complaints to make about our father Adam 
eating the forbidden fruit, as some have, for I do not 
know but any of us would have done the same. I find 
myself here in the midst of the creatures of God, and 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 859 

it is for me to make use of the intelligence God has given 
me, and not condescend to anything that is low, mean, 
grovelling and degrading — to anything that is calcula- 
ted to debase the immortal mind of man, but to follow 
after things that are in their nature calculated to exalt, 
ennoble and dignify, that I may stand in my true posi- 
tion before God, angels and men, and arise to take my 
seat among the Gods of eternity. 

We will now come to the principles of legitimacy, 
which was the text given out this morning — to om 
rights, privileges, priesthoods, authorities, powers, domin- 
ions, etc., etc. And as some of us are Scriptorians, 
and all profess to believe the Bible, I feel inclined to 
quote a text from it. Paul, when speaking of Jesus 
Christ, gives us to understand that he is the first-born of 
every creature, for by him were all things made that 
were made, and to him pertains all things ; he is the 
head of all things, he created all things, whether visible 
or invisible, whether they be principalities, powers, 
thrones, dominions ; all things were created by him and 
for him, and without him was not anything made that 
was made. If all things were created by him and for 
him, this world on which we stand must have been 
created by him and for him ; if so, he is its legitimate, 
its rightful owner and proprietor; its lawful sovereign 
and ruler. "We will begin with him, then, in the first 
place, in treating on the subject of legitimacy. 

But has he had the dominion over all nations, kindreds, 
peoples and tongues ? Have they bowed to his sceptre, 
and acknowledged his sway ? Have all people rendered 
obedience to his laws, and submitted to his guidance? 
Echo answers "JSTo!" Has there ever been a kingdom, 
a government, a nation, a power, or a dominion in this 



360 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

world that has yielded obedience to him in all things ? 
Can you point out one ? 

We read of the Jews who where a nation that sub- 
mitted only in part to his authority, for they rebelled 
against his laws, and were placed under a schoolmaster 
until the Messiah should come. "We read also, in the 
Book of Mormon, of some Nephites that dwelt upon 
this land, who kept the commandments of God, and 
perhaps were more pure than any other nation that his- 
tory gives an account of. But, with these exceptions, 
the nations, kingdoms, powers, and dominions of the 
world have not been subject to the law, dominion, rule 
or authority of God ; but, as it is expressed by one of 
the ancients, the prince and power of the air, the god of 
tilt's world has ruled in the hearts of the children of dis- 
obedience, and led them captive at his own will. Where 
is the historian, the man acquainted with ancient lore, 
who can point me out one government, nation, power 
or dominion, that has been subject to the rule of God, 
to the dominion of Jesus Christ, with the exception of 
those Jews and ]STephites which I have referred to ? If 
there has been any such nation, the history of it has 
escaped my notice. I have never been able to obtain 
such information. 

What has been the position of the world for genera- 
tions past ? They have been governed by rulers not ap- 
pointed by God ; if they were appointed by Him, it 
was merely as a scourge to the people for their wicked- 
ness, or for temporary rulers in the absence of those 
whose right it was to govern. They had not the 
legitimate rule, priesthood, and authority of God on the 
earth, to act as his representatives in regulating and 
presiding over the affairs of His kingdom. 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 36l 

Perhaps it may be well, at this stage of my remarks, 
to give you a short explanation of my ideas of govern- 
ment, legitimacy, or priesthood, if you please. The 
question, " What is priesthood ? " has often been asked 
of me. I answer, it is the rule and government of God, 
whether on earth, or in the heavens ; and it is the only 
legitimate power, the only authority that is acknow- 
ledged by Him to rule and regulate the affairs of His 
kingdom. "When every wrong thing shall be put right, 
and all usurpers shall be put down, when he whose 
right it is to reign shall take the dominion, then nothing 
but the priesthood will bear rule ; it alone will sway 
the sceptre of authority in heaven and on earth, for 
this is the legitimacy of God. 

In the absence of this, what has been the position of 
nations ? You have made yourselves acquainted with 
the political structure and the political intrigues of 
earthly kingdoms ; I ask, from whence did they obtain 
their power ? Did they get it from God ? Go to the 
history of Europe, if you please, and examine how the 
rulers of those nations obtained their authority. De- 
pending upon history for our information, we say those 
nations have been founded by the sword. If we trace 
the pages of history still further back to the first nation 
that existed, still we find that it was founded upon the 
same principle. Then follow the various revolutions 
and changes that took place among the subsequent na- 
tions and powers, from the Babylonians through the 
Medo-Persians, Grecians, Romans, and from that power 
to all the other powers of Europe, Asia and Africa, of 
which we have any knowledge : and if we look to 
America from the first discoveries by Columbus to the 
present time, where are now the original proprietors of 

16 



362 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

the soil ? Go to any power that has existed upon this 
earth, and you„will find that earthly government, earthly 
rule and dominion, have been obtained by the sword. 
It was the sword of men that first put them in possession 
of this j)Ower. They have walked up to their thrones 
through rivers of blood, through the clotted gore and 
the groans of the dying, and through the tears and 
lamentations of bereaved widows and helpless orphans ; 
and hence the common saying is " thrones won by 
blood, by blood must be maintained." By the same 
principle that they have been put in possession of ter- 
ritory, have they thought to sustain themselves — the 
same violence, the same fraud and the same oppres- 
sion have been made use of to sustain their illegiti- 
macy. 

Some of these powers, dominions, governments and 
rulers, have had in their possession the laws of God, and 
the admonitions of Jesus Christ; and what have they 
done to his servants in different ages of the world, when 
he has sent them unto them ? This question I need not 
stop to answer, for you are already made too familiar 
with it. This, then, is the position of the world. Au- 
thority, dominion, rule, government has been obtained 
by fraud, and consequently is not legitimate. They say 
much about the ordination of kings, and their being 
anointed by the grace of God, etc. What think you of a 
murderer slaying hundreds and thousands of his fellow- 
creatures because he has the power, and while his sword 
is yet reeking with human blood, having a priest in sac- 
erdotal robes to anoint him to the kingship ? They 
have done it. "What think you of the cries of the wid- 
ows, the tears of the orphans, and the groans of the 
dying, mingling with the prayers and blessings of the 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 363 

priest upon the head of the murderer of their husbands 
and their fathers ? 

It is impossible that there can be any legitimate rule, 
government, power or authority, under the face of the 
heavens, except that which is connected with the king- 
dom of God, which is established by new revelation from 
heaven. 

In a conversation with some of our modern reformers 
in France, one of their leaders said, "I think you will 
not succeed very well in disseminating the principles of 
your religion in France." I replied, " you have been 
seeking to accomplish something, for generations, with 
your philosophy, your philanthropic societies, and your 
ideas of moral reform, but have failed; while we have 
not been seeking to accomplish the thing that you have, 
particularly, and yet have accomplished it." We began 
with the power of God, with the government of heaven, 
and with acknowledging His hand in all things ; and 
God has sustained us, blessed and upheld us to the pre- 
sent time ; and it is the only government, rule and do- 
minion under the heavens that will acknowledge His 
authority. 

Brethren, if any of you doubt it, go into some of those 
nations, and get yourself introduced into the presence 
of their kings and rulers, and say, "Thus saith the Lord 
God." They would at once denounce you as a madman, 
and straightway order you into prison. What is the 
matter ? They do not acknowledge the legitimacy, the 
rule and government of God, nor will they inquire into 
them. They receive not their authority from Him. Na- 
tions honor their kings, but they do not honor the au- 
thority of their God in any instance, neither have they 
from the first man-made government to the present 



364: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

time. If there has been such a nation, or if there is at 
this time such a government, it is a thing of which I am 
ignorant. 

The kings and potentates of the world profess to be 
anointed by the grace of God. But the priests who 
anoint them have no authority to do it. No person has 
authority to anoint a king or administer in one of the 
least of God's ordinances, except he is legally called and 
ordained of God to that power ; and how can a man be 
called of God to administer in His name, that does not 
acknowledge the gift of prophecy to be the right of the 
children of God in all ages ? It is impossible. These 
men have been grasping after power, and for this they 
have laid waste nations and destroyed countries. Some 
of them possessed it for awhile, and others were on the 
eve of getting it when they were cut off, and down they 
went. What became of them afterwards? Isaiah in 
vision saw the kings of the earth gathered together as 
prisoners in a pit, and after many days they were to be 
visited. 

Having said so much in relation to other governors 
and governments, we will now notice the difference be- 
tween them and Abraham of old. Abraham was a man 
who contended for the true and legitimate authority. 
God promised to him, and to his seed after him, the land 
of Canaan for their possession. " The Lord said unto 
Abraham, after that Lot was separated from him, lift 
up now thine eyes, and look from the place where thou 
art northward, and southward, and eastward, and west- 
ward ; for all the land which thou seest, to thee will I 
give it, and to thy seed for ever." What did Stephen 
say generations afterwards ? That God " gave him none 
inheritance in it, no, not so much as to set his foot on ; 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 3G5 

yet he promised that he would give it to him for a pos- 
session, and to his seed after him, when as yet he had no 
child." Ezekiel's vision of the dry bones explains this 
seeming contradiction. The Lord said to him, " Son of 
man, can these bones live?" etc. Who are they? "We 
are told, in the same chapter, that they are the whole 
house of Israel, and that they shall come out of their 
graves, bone come to its bone, and sinew to sinew, and 
flesh come upon them, and they shall become a living 
army before God, and they shall inherit the land which 
was given to them and their fathers before them. The 
measuring line shall again go forth upon those lands, 
and mark out the possessions belonging to the tribes of 
Israel. 

Abraham was a man who dared fear God, and do 
honor to His authority, which was legitimate. God 
tried and proved him, the same as He has tried many 
of us, and felt after his heart-strings, and twisted them 
round. When He had tried him to the utmost, He 
swore by Himself, because He could swear by no greater, 
saying, "That in blessing I will bless thee, and in mul- 
tiplying I will multiply thy seed." "And in thy seed 
shall all the nations of the earth be blessed." Abraham 
obtained his dominion by legitimate authority ; his 
priesthood was obtained from God ; his authority was 
that which is associated with the everlasting Gospel, 
which was, and is, and is to come, that liveth and abid- 
eth for ever. And the promises made to him will rest 
upon him and his posterity, through every subsequent 
period of time, until the final winding up scene of all 
things. Will lie ever obtain them ? Yes. For we are 
eternal beings, and I am now talking as though we were 
in eternity. We shall wake up in the morning of the 



366 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

resurrection, attain to all the blessings which have been 
promised to us, and strike hands with Abraham, and see 
him inherit the promises. Abraham and all his children 
will then inherit the promises, through the principle of 
legitimacy. And there are many of the sons and daugh- 
ters of Abraham among us at the present time ; these 
will be baptized for their dead brethren and sisters, and 
by this means bring them unto Christ, beginning on the 
outside branches of the tree, and so progressing to the 
main stock, and from that to the root. And it shall 
come to pass that all Israel shall be saved. "Why? Be- 
cause it is their legitimate right. And they are Israel 
who do the works of Abraham. 

Thus it is, then, with Abraham. The old man feels 
perfectly easy about the matter ; and if he does see 
many of his descendants existing as a cursed race on ac- 
count of their transgressions, many of them enjoying no 
higher avocation than crying "old clothes," still the 
time of their redemption will come, and by means of 
the eternal Gospel and priesthood, they with ns will be 
made perfect, and we with them. "While the faithful 
are operating in heaven to bring this about, the saints 
are operating on earth; and by faith and works we will 
accomplish all things, we will redeem the dead and the 
living, and all shall come forth, and Abraham will stand 
at the head of his seed as their ruler. This is his legiti- 
mate position. 

"We will now notice those men who are contending 
for it without any authority, and make a contrast 
between the two. We see them gathering their forces, 
and using their influence to destroy the poor among 
men. How long will the kings and rulers of the earth 
do this? Until they are dead and damned. And what 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 367 

then ? They will be cast down into a pit. Isaiah saw 
them there, along with many other scoundrels, murder- 
ers and scamps. After many days they will be visited, 
but they have got to lie in prison a long time for their 
transgressions. The one is legitimacy, and the other is 
illegitimacy ; the one is the order of God, and the other 
is the order of the devil. 

Such is the position of things in relation to the world, 
to legitimacy and illegitimacy, in regard to things that 
are right, and things that are wrong. Jesus Christ crea- 
ted all things, and for him were they made, whether it be 
principalities, powers, thrones or dominions. Now the 
question is, is he going to be dispossessed of his right, 
because scoundrels exist in the world, and stand in 
power and dominion ; because his subjects have rebelled 
against him from time to time, and usurpers have taken 
his place, and the dominion is given to another? Verity, 
no. But the time will come when the kingdom and the 
greatness of the kingdom under the whole heaven will 
be given to the saints of the Most High, and they will 
possess it for ever and ever. 

"We will now notice some of the acts of God, and 
some of the acts of those who have been under the 
dominion of Satan, those who have had dominion over 
the world — the proud and haughty usurpers, and the 
shedders of innocent blood. These are they that have 
lived in the world, and possessed all the good things of 
it. And what has been the situation of the saints in 
every age ? All those who d;\rcd acknowledge that God 
lived, that this kingdom belonged to Ilim, that it was 
His right, and that He would without doubt possess it, 
have been trodden under foot, persecuted, cast out, 
hated, killed ; " they wandered about in sheep-skins and 



368 TKAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAK WEST. 

goat skins; being destitute, afflicted and tormented." 
As one of old says, in speaking of the Jews, which of 
the prophets have not your fathers killed, who testified 
before the coming of the Just One ? 

This was the case in ancient days, and has been car- 
ried on in modern times. I have, with my own eyes, 
seen holy prophets expire, who were killed by the hands 
of a murderous gang of blood-thirsty assassins, because 
they bore the same testimony that the holy prophets did 
in days of old. How many more of their brethren who 
dared to acknowledge the truth, have fallen beneath the 
same influences — have been shot, whipped, imprisoned, 
and put to death in a variety of ways, while hundreds 
of others, driven from their homes in the winters, have 
found their last bed ; they were worn out with suffering 
and fatigue, the weary wheels of life stood still ; they 
were obliged to forsake the world, in which they could 
no longer remain, because of the persecution heaped 
upon them by the enemies of the truth. 

The reason of all this vile outrage upon innocent men } 
women and children, is because there is no legitimate 
rule upon the earth. God's laws and government are 
not known, and His servants are despised and cast out. 

Legitimacy and right, whether in heaven or on earth, 
cannot mix with anything that is not true, just and 
equitable; and truth is free from oppression and injus- 
tice, as is the bosom of Jehovah. Nothing but that will 
ultimately stand. What has been the position of the 
world generally, among themselves ? You see men 
marshalling armies, and making war with one another 
to destroy each other, and take possession of their terri- 
tory and wealth. One man who is in possession of 
wealth, power and authority, sees oppression exercised by 



LEGIITMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 369 

kings ; so he follows the example, as do rulers who 
exercise authority under their sovereign ; then others in 
a still lower degree do the same ; thus oppression treads 
upon the heels of oppression, and distress follows dis- 
tress. You will find this to exist in a great measure 
through every grade of society, from the king on his 
throne, down to the match-maker or the chimney- 
sweep. 

To ameliorate the condition of man, there are a great 
many institutions introduced into the world in the shape 
of Tract Societies, Bible Societies, and many more too 
numerous for me to name. Many of them are founded 
by sincere men, but commencing on the wrong founda- 
tion, they keep wrong all the time, and fail to accomplish 
the object desired. If any one of these different insti- 
tutions were to carry out their own principles, they 
would not only fail in accomplishing the object they 
have in view, but ultimately destroy themselves. 

There are Peace Societies among the rest ; their 
object is to bring peace into the world, without the 
Spirit of God. They see plainly that peace is desirable, 
but they wish to graft it on to a rotten stock. In 
Europe they had a " Peace Congress," and sent their 
representatives to all parts of the world ; and of course 
this " Congress of Peace " wished to regulate the world, 
make an end of war, and bring in universal peace. 

Talk about peace, when rancorous discord makes its 
nest in the councils and cabinets of all nations, and the 
hearts of their statesmen are steeped in hatred one to 
another ! Jealousy, animosity and strife, like the influ- 
ence of a deadly contagion, may be found in almost 
every family ; brother rising up against sister, sister 
against brother, the father "against the mother, and the 

16* 



370 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

mother against the father, etc. We can find discord 
reigning even in the " Peace Society " itself. 

Jesus Christ says, " My peace I give unto you ; not 
as the world giveth, give I unto you," etc. Wherever 
this peace exists, it leaves an influence that is comfort- 
ing and refreshing to the souls of those who partake of 
it. It is like the morning dew to the thirsty plant. This 
peace is alone the gift of God, and it can only be 
received from Him through obedience to His laws. If 
any man wishes to introduce peace into his family or 
among his friends, let him cultivate it in his own bosom ; 
for sterling peace can only be had according to the legiti- 
mate rule and authority of heaven, and obedience to 
its laws. 

Everything is disordered, and in confusion in the 
world. The reason is, because no legitimate authority 
has been known or acknowledged on the earth. Others 
have been trying to build up and establish what they 
supposed to be the kingdom of God. The socialists of 
France call themselves religious people, and they also 
expect to bring about a reign of glory through a species 
of Robespierreism. I was told by a man well acquainted 
with matters of fact in relation to these things, that if 
they gained the ascendancy in France, their first object 
would be to erect a statue to Eobespierre. They were 
going to cut off thousands of j>eople, to accomplish their 
designs ; and had not Napoleon taken active measures 
to head them, bands of men were ready on a moment's 
warning to cut off the heads of thousands, and among 
these, I was informed, fifty thousand priests were 
doomed. 

These are some of the principles and ideas that exist in 
the world, among the various nations and institutions of 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 371 

men, ■which are framed according to illegitimate princi- 
ples. A change of government changes not the condition 
of the people, for all are wrong, and acting without 
God. 

Our ideas are, that the time has come to favor God's 
people ; a time about which prophets spoke in pathetic 
strains, and poets sung. These men of God looked 
through the dark vista of future ages, and being wrap- 
ped in prophetic vision, beheld the latter day glor y — the 
time of the dispensation of the fullness of times, spoken 
of by all the holy prophets since the world began ; for 
they all looked forward with joyful anticipations to the 
things which have commenced with us ; they all had 
their eye upon the time when legitimacy would obtain 
its proper place upon the earth, in the shape of the 
kingdom of God established in the world, when all false 
rule and dominion would be put down, and the king- 
doms of this world would become subject to God and 
His Christ. These are the ideas that they had, and 
these are the things we are seeking to carry out. 

If we look at what illegitimacy has done in former 
times, we shall see the absolute necessity of the restitu- 
tion spoken of by the prophets, for it has filled the earth 
with evil, it has caused the world to groan in bondage, 
laid millions in the cold embrace of death, and caused 
disease to spread its pestiferous breath among the na- 
tions, leaving ruin, misery and desolation in its path, 
and made this fair earth a howling wilderness. And 
nothing but the wisdom and intelligence of God can 
change it. The kingdom of God will establish truth and 
correct principles — the principles of truth, equity and 
justice ; in short, the principles that emanate from God, 



372 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

principles that are calculated to elevate raan in time and 
through all eternity. How shall this be ? It will be by 
a legitimate rule, authority and dominion. 

Who have we for our ruling power ? "Where and how 
did he obtain his authority ? Or how did any of this 
Church and kingdom obtain it ? It was first obtained 
by a revelation from the Lord of the universe, by the 
opening of the heavens, by the voice of God, and by the 
ministering of holy angels. It is by the voice of God 
and the voice of the people, that our present President 
obtained his authority. Many people in the world are 
talking about mis-rule and mis-government. If there 
is any form of government under the heavens where we 
can have legitimate rule and authority, it is among the 
Saints. In the first place, we have a man appointed by 
God, and, in the second place, by the people. This 
man is chosen by yourselves, and every person raises his 
hand to sanction the choice. Here is our President, 
Brigham Young, whom we made choice of yesterday, 
who is he ? He is the legitimate ruler among this 
people. Can anybody dispossess him? They cannot, 
because it is his legitimate right, and he reigns in the 
hearts of the people. He obtains his authority first 
from God, and secondly from the people ; and if a man 
possesses five grains of common sense, when he has a 
privilege of voting for or against a man, he will not 
vote for a man that oppresses the people ; he will vote, 
according to the dictates of his conscience, for this is the 
right and duty of this people in the choice of their Presi- 
dent, and other leading officers of the kingdom of God. 
While this is being done here, it is being done in every 
part of the world, wherever the Church of Jesus Christ 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 273 

of latter-day saints has a footing. Is there a monarch, 
potentate or power under the heavens that undergoes a 
scrutiny as fine as this ? No, there is not ; and yet this 
is done twice a year, before all the saints in the world. 
Here a*;s legitimacy and rule. Yon place the power in 
their hands to govern, dictate, regulate and put in order, 
the affairs of the kingdom of God. This is Vox Dei 
voxpojmli. God appoints ; the people sustain. You do 
this by your own act ; very well, then, it is legitimate, 
and must stand, and every man is bound to abide it if 
it takes the hair off his head. I know that there are 
things sometimes that are hard, tough and pinching ; 
but if a man is a man of God, he has his eyes upon 
eternal things, and is aiming to accomplish the purposes 
of God, and all will be well with him in the end. 

"What advantage is there, then, between this govern- 
ment and others ? Why we have peace, and as eternal 
beings we have knowledge of eternal things. While 
listening to the remarks made on this stand, what have 
we not heard — what have we not known ? The curtains 
of heaven have been withdrawn, and we have gazed as 
by vision upon eternal realities. While, in the profess- 
ing world, doubt and uncertainty throw their dark 
mantle over every mind. 

Let us now notice our political position in the world. 
What are we going to do? We are going to possess 
the earth. Why ? Because it belongs to Jesus Christ, 
and he belongs to us, and we to him ; we are all one, 
and will take the kingdom and possess it under the 
win ile heavens, and reign over it for ever and ever. 
Now, ye kings and emperors, help yourselves, if you 
can. This is the truth, and it may as well be told at 
this time as at anv other. 



374: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

" There's a good time coming, Saints, 
A good time coming, 
There's a good time coming, Saints, 
Wait a little longer." 

Having said so much on this point, we will return to 
the principle of legitimacy. God is our legitimate Fa- 
ther, and we are His children, and have- a claim upon 
Him, and He has a claim upon us. We have come into 
this world to accomplish a certain purpose, and we have 
come in the dispensation of the fullness of times, when 
God decreed to gather all things together into one, 
whether they be things in heaven or on earth ; and 
everything that has been in existence in any age of the 
world, or that is, or will be, which is calculated to 
benefit and exalt men, we shall have ; consequently, it 
is for us to look after anything and everything that ever 
has been true, or that ever has been developed in any 
period of the history of man, for it all belongs to us, and 
has got to be restored, for restitution means bringing 
back that which was lost. If the antedeluvians enjoy- 
ed anything that was good, true and eternal, which is 
not yet made known to us, it has to be restored ; or if 
anything existed among the ancient patriarchs and pro- 
phets, that has been lost, it has to be restored. If there 
are any people of God upon any detached part of this 
world, they with it have got to be restored. God's word 
will also be gathered into one, and His people and the 
Jews will hear the words of the Nephites, and the ten 
tribes must hear the words of the Jews and ISTephites, 
and God's people be gathered and be one. All things 
will be gathered in one, and Zion be redeemed, the 
glory of God be revealed, and all flesh see it together. 
God's dominion will be established on the earth, the 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 375 

law go forth from Zion, and the word of the Lord from 
Jerusalem, and the kingdoms of this world will become 
subject to God and His Christ. 

As eternal beings, then, we existed with our Father 
in the eternal worlds. We came on to this earth, and 
obtained tabernacles, that through taking possession of 
them, and passing through a scene of trial, and tribula- 
tion, and suffering, we might be exalted to more glory, 
dignity and power, than would have been possible for 
us to obtain had we not been placed in our present 
position. If any of you do not believe this, let me refer 
you to a passage of Scripture or two. How was man 
created at first ? "We are told that God made man a 
little lower than the angels ; then says Paul, " Know ye 
not that we shall judge angels." What through ? It is 
through the atonement of Jesus Christ, through the 
taking of our bodies, the powers of the holy priesthood, 
and the resurrection of Jesus Christ, that we shall 
obtain a higher exaltation than it would have been 
possible for us to enjoy, if we had not fallen. To do 
right in our present state, then, we must carry out the 
principle of legitimacy according to a correct rule, and, 
if we profess to be subjects of the kingdom of God, we 
must be subject to the dominion, rule, legitimacy, and 
authority of God. Xo person can escape from this un- 
less he apostatizes, and goes to the devil, like a fool. 
He must be a fool who would barter away eternal life, 
thrones, principalities and powers in the eternal world, 
for the paltry trash which exists in the shape of wealth 
and worldly honor ; to let go his chance of heaven and 
of God, of being a king and priest unto Him, of living 
and reigning for ever, and standing among the chiefs of 
Israel. I cannot help calling such men fools, for they 



376 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

are damned now in making such choice, and will be 
hereafter. 

I will say a little more on legitimacy and right to 
rule. What would be the position of a man who would 
take a course to rob his neighbor, or take advantage of 
him in the case of his legitimacy, which you have heard 
of this morning ? Such a man must be a greater fool 
than the other. For instance, a good man dies, who has 
served God in righteousness all his days ; the weary 
wheels of life stand still, and he goes to the world of 
spirits. He believed in the principles of justice, equity, 
righteousness, and truth, and that his rights would be 
held sacred to him by his brethren after he was gone. 
But some professed man of God comes to his widow, 
and wants to steal her away from him ; he would rob 
the dead with impunity, under the ostensible garb of 
justice to her and her dead husband ; he will tell her he 
is doing it out of pure love to them both, and he is going 
to exalt them in the kingdom of God. We read of the 
kingdom of God suffering violence ; if violence is ever 
attempted, it is in a case of this kind. It is bad enough 
to steal from a man his earthly property ; his oxen, his 
cow, his horse, his harness, his wagon wheels, and other 
paraphernalia ; but what think you of a man that would 
rob the dead of a treasure which he holds the most dear, 
and prized as the most precious thing he possessed on 
earth — his affectionate wife ! Such a person will assur- 
edly miss his figure. 

You will find in the ancient laws of Israel, there were 
proper rules in relation to these matters ; one was, that 
if a man died without a child, his brother or the nearest 
relation of the husband should take the widow, and raise 
up seed to the husband, that his name might be continued 



LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY. 377 

in Israel, and not be blotted out. Where did these laws 
come from? "We are told they came from God. Bnt 
instead of doing this, suppose he should try to steal this 
woman away, and rob his brother — how would he get 
along, I wonder, with such a case against him, at the bar 
of justice? The laws and ordinances that exist in the 
eternal world have their pattern in the things which are 
revealed to the children of men on earth. The priest- 
hood as it exists on the earth is a pattern of things in 
heaven. As I said in a former part of this discourse, 
priesthood is legitimate rule, whether on earth or in 
heaven. When we have the true priesthood on earth, 
we take it with us into the heavens ; it changes not, but 
continues the same in the eternal world. 

There is another feature of that ancient law which I 
will mention. It was considered an act of injustice for 
the nearest relation not to take the wife of the deceased ; 
if he refused to do it, he was obliged to go before the 
elders of " Israel, and his brother's wife shall loose his 
shoe from off his foot, and spit in his face, and shall an- 
swer and say, So shall it be done unto the man that will 
not build up his brother's house ; and his name shall be 
called in Israel, The house of him who hath his shoe 
loosed." If the restitution of all things is to be brought 
to pass, there must be a restitution of these things ; 
everything will be put right, and in its proper place. 

There is another thing which is most grievous, afrlict- 
ing and distressing so contemplate. When a man takes 
to himself a woman that properly belongs to another, 
and defiles her, it interferes with the fountain of life, 
and corrupts the very source of existence. There is an 
offspring comes forth as the fruit of that union, and that 



378 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

offspring is an eternal being — how can it be looked 
upon ? To reflect upon it, wounds the finest feelings of 
human nature in time, and will in eternity. For who 
can gaze upon the degradation of their wife, and the 
corruption of their seed, without peculiar sensations ? 
How much more is this feeling enhanced when the 
wronged man considers that he has been robbed by one 
who professed to be his friend ? This thing is not to be 
trifled with, but is of the greatest importance ; hence 
the necessity of the sealing powers, that all things may 
be pure, chastity maintained, and lasciviousness be 
rooted out from among the saints. "Why so ? That we 
may have a holy offspring, that shall be great, and 
clothed with the mighty power of God, to rule in His 
kingdom, and accomplish the work we propose they 
shall fulfill ; and that when we go to sleep, we may sleep 
in peace, knowing that justice will be administered in 
righteousness. We shall know that we have a claim 
upon our own in the first resurrection ; we shall know 
that our wives and our children will be there to join us, 
justice will be administered, and we shall have a claim 
upon them in the eternal world, and that no unprincipled 
scoundrel will be permitted to set his foot on another, or 
rob him of his just claims. "Why is a woman sealed to 
a man for time and all eternity ? Because there is legi- 
timate power on earth to do it. This power will bind 
on earth and in heaven ; it can loose on earth, and it is 
loosed in heaven ; it can seal on earth, and it is sealed in 
heaven. There is a legitimate, authorized agent of God 
upon earth ; this sealing power is regulated by him ; 
hence what is done by that, is done right, and is record- 
ed. When the books are opened, every one will find 



LEGITIMACY AMD ILLEGITIMACY. 379 

his proper mate, and have those that belong to him, and 
every one will be deprived of that which is surreptitiously 
obtained. 

Let us do righteously, and you who would seek to in- 
jure another, and take advantage of one who was just 
and faithful to his God in his day, how would you like, 
when you get a few years older and drop into eternity, 
for somebody to come and serve you the same? You 
could not expect anything else, you could not die with- 
out being menaced by this supposition, and your dying 
pillow would be made unhappy, you would know you 
had done wrong, and would expect somebody to meas- 
ure to you the same measure pressed down, shook to- 
gether, and running over. 

We have been told to preach confidence; correct 
principles and just dealings alone will inspire it. If a 
man speaks that which is not true about another, can 
you have confidence in him ? No. If a man defrauds 
another, can you have confidence in him ? ISTo. But if 
you would, through a principle of covetousness, seek to 
sap the foundation of another's happiness, by trying to 
wrench from him those sacred rights which pertain to 
his interest in the eternal world, how much greater will 
be your condemnation? Nothing but truth, integrity, 
virtue, honor, and every pure principle, will stand in the 
great day of God Almighty. If such a person happens 
to get through this world, he will find barriers in the 
next, and probably miss a chance of obtaining a place 
in the first resurrection. Nothing contrary to the au- 
thority, rule, and government of heaven, will stand in 
time or in eternity ; and if any man wants to be blessed 
and honored, and to obtain a high place in the eternal 
world, let him pursue a course of honor, righteousness, 



380 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. 

and virtue before his God; and if he wants to find him- 
self amongst usurpers, defranders, oppressors, and those 
in possession of illegitimate claims, let him take an op- 
posite course. If time would permit, much more might 
be said about social, family and individual legitimate 
rights ; but as time hastens, I forbear for the present. 
Well, brethren and sisters, may God bless you. Amen. 



THE END. 



J. C. r.EKCV'S PUBLICATIONS. 



THE LIFE AND SAYINGS OF MRS. 
PARTINGTON, 

AND OTHERS OF THE FAMILf. 

BY B. P. SniLLABER. 

1 elegant 12mo., 43 Illustrations. Price $1 25. 

"'Hang the books!' said an appreciative examiner, to whom we handed a copy for 
Inspection, ' I can't afford to buy them, but I can't do without this ;' and laughirg until 
the tears ran, he drew forth the purchase-money. It is just so, reader ; you can't do 
without this book. It is so full of genial humor and pure human nature that your wife 
ind children must have it, to be able to realize how much enjoyment may be shut up 
within the lids of a book. It is full of human kindness, rich in humor, alive with wit, 
mingled here and there with those faint touches of melancholy which oft-times touch 
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of a grin — has given to many a mind the material for an odd but not useless revery — has 
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Such a book will go everywhere — be welcomed like a returned exile — do good, and cease 
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" If it is true that one grows fat who laughs, then he who reads this book will fat up, 
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nobody doubts. We have shook and shook while running through this charming volume, 
until it has seemed as though we had increased in weight some fifty gounds, more or 
less."- '■Massachusetts Life Boat. 

" A regular Yankee institution is Mrs. Partington, and well deserves the compliment of 
a book devoted to her sayings and doings. She is here brought before the public, which 
Is so greatly indebted to her unique vocabulary for exTiaustless stores of fun, in a style 
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" There is a w^rld of goodness in her blessed heart, as there is a universe of quiet fun 
in the book be. "e us. 'A gem of purest ray serene' glitters on almost every page. 
Everybody shou) buy the book; everybody, at least, who loves genial, quiet wit, which 
never wounds, but always heals where it strikes." — Independent Democrat. 

" It is crammed full of her choicest sayings, and rings from title page to ' finis ' with hei 
unconscious wit. It is just the book for one to read at odd moments — to take on the cars 
or home of an evening — or to devour in one's office of a rainy day. It is ar. excellent 
antidote for the blues." — Oneida Herald. 

" Housewivos who occasionally get belated about their dinner, should have it lying 
round. It will prevent a deal of grumbling from their ' lords,' by keeping them so well 
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" Her ' sayings ' have gone the world over, and given her an immortality that will glitter 
and sparkle among the records of genius wherever wit and humor shall be aporeclated.'- 
— Woi cester Palladium, I 



J. C. DERBY'S PUELICArlONS. 



"Bell's sketches are instinct with life, they sparkle with brillianta, are gem- 
med with wit, and address themselves to almost every ehord of the human 
heart." — Zottisville (Ky.) Bulletin. 



BELL SMITH ABROAD. 

A Handsome 12mo. volume. Price $1 00. With Illustrations by Ilealy, 
Walcutt, and Ovcrarclio 

" The readers of the Louisville Journal need 110 introduction from us to Bell Smith. 
Her own brilliant pen, and her own sparkling, witching and delightful style have so often 
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Evening Traveller. 

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J. c. derby's publications. 



THE HIDDEN PATH. 

A NOVEL. 
BY MARION BARLAND. 

AUTHOR OF "ALONE." 

12mo. Price $1 25. 

"High as has been the reputation acquired by the many authoresses of our country, 
we shall be mistaken if the writer of 'Alone ' and of 'The Hidden Path ' does not take 
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We congratulate the young and gifted authoress for having produced a work so remark- 
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"'The Hidden Path' is a work of originality and genius, full of striking thoughts, 
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3 



J. c. derby's publications. 



A BOOK OF BARE HUMOR! 

THE WIDOW BEDOTT PAPERS 

BY FRANCIS M. WniTCREB 

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY ALICE B. NEAL. 

One volume 12mo., with 8 spirited illustrations by ©alias and Orr 
Price $1 25. 

Extract from a Letter to the Author by the late Joseph C. Neal 

"Our readers talk of nothing else, and almost despise 'Neal' if the 'Widow' be not 
there. An excellent critic in these matters, said to me the other day, that he regarded 
them as the best Yankee papers yet written, and such is indeed the general sentiment. 
I know, for instance of a lady who, for several days after reading one of them, wa§ 
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ing f the gift which thus brings wholesome satire home to every reader." 



CONTENTS. 



H ,zekiah Bedott. 

The Widow Essays Poetry. 

Widow Jenkins' Animosity. 

Mr. Crane Walks in. 

The Widow Discourses of Pumpkins. 

The Widow Loses her Beau. 

Mr. Crane about to Propose. 

Mr. Crane Walks out. 

The Widow " Sets her Cap." 

The Widow Resolves to leave Wiggletown. 

The Widow Trades with a Pedlar. 

""he Widow and Aunt Maguire Discourse on 
Various Topics. 

The Widow having Heard that Elder Sniffles 
is Sick, Writes to him. 

The Widow Resorts to Elder Sniffles for 
Religious Instruction. 

The Widow concludes to Publish. 

The Widow Prepares to Receive Elder Snif- 
fles on Thanksgiving-Day. 

The Widow Retires 10 a Grove in the rear 
of Elder Sniffles' House. 



The Widow Writes to her Daughter, Mr, 
Jupiter Smith. 

The Rev. Mrs. Sniffles Abroad. 

The Rev. Mrs. Sniffles at Home. 

The Rev. Mrs. Sniffles Expresses her Senti- 
ments in Regard to the Parsonage. 

Aunt Maguire's Experience. 

Aunt Maguire's Description of the Donation 
Party. 

Aunt Maguire Treats of the Contemplated 
Sewing Society at Scrabble Hill. 

Aunt Maguire Continues her Account ofi 
the Sewing Society. 

Aunt Maguire's Visit to Slabtown. 

Visit to Slabtown Continued. 

Mrs. Maguire's Account of Deacon Whip- 
ple. 

Mrs. Mudlaw's Recipe for Potatoe Pud- 
ding. 

Morning Calls ; or, Every Body's Particular 
Friend. 



